Piedmont wine region – Decanter

Barolo 2020: A 'ready to drink' vintage

Aldo Fiordelli — Tue, 21 May 2024 08:25:33 +0000

Harvest underway on the Poderi Aldo Conterno estate, Monforte d’Alba.

There is an attractive blue butterfly that is known to lay its eggs in the violets of Serralunga in Barolo, in northwest Italy. Until a decade or so ago, however, as relayed to me by Isidoro Vajra, who tends the vines on his family’s Piedmont estate, Polyommatus celina’s range was generally confined to southern Spain, Portugal, Sicily, Sardinia and some other Mediterranean islands.

It’s just one of the many ways in which the climate crisis in the Langhe region can be illustrated. In what was a very warm year in terms of overall heat levels, the 2020 season can be compared to exceptionally warm years in the last couple of decades.

In his vintage report on his website, the Langhe region’s celebrated cartographer, Alessandro Masnaghetti, says that, ‘the data related to thermal sums [a measure of the accumulation of heat energy over a period of time]… in 2020 closely approached those of very hot years, such as 2003 and 2017’.

But the overall character of the 2020 Barolos is very different to what one might expect from a hot vintage. And this was down to two notable reasons: the lack of water stress across the season for the vines; and the absence of heat spikes.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

Italy’s future greats: 10 wineries from Piedmont to Campania nominated by their peers

Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results

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Langhe Nebbiolo: 20 wines to seek out

Aldo Fiordelli — Mon, 13 May 2024 09:44:08 +0000

The village of Barbaresco in the Langhe.

Nebbiolo is the classic ‘less-is-more’ style of wine. It’s perhaps no coincidence that today – when this is a style that’s very much in vogue – demand for young Nebbiolo has increased significantly, according to Piedmont’s Consorzio di Tutela Barolo, Barbaresco, Alba, Langhe & Dogliani.

Focusing on Piedmont’s main DOC Nebbiolo categories, consorzio figures reported in January 2024 show that annual production of Nebbiolo d’Alba has increased by more than a million bottles since 2016 (to 5.64m bottles in 2022).

Over the same period, production of Langhe DOC wines (within which, it must be noted, there is primarily – but not only – Nebbiolo) grew from 15.4m to 19.5m bottles a year. By comparison, Barbera and Dolcetto volumes have declined, while DOCG Barolo (14.5m) and Barbaresco (5m) have increased more modestly, by about 500,000 and 200,000 bottles a year respectively.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

See notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s top 20 Nebbiolo wines from Langhe DOC

Groundbreaking Gaja: A lifetime’s work

Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results

Alta Langa wines: 18 top Piedmontese sparklings to try

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Italy's future greats: 10 wineries from Piedmont to Campania nominated by their peers

Tiziano Gaia — Tue, 16 Apr 2024 07:00:37 +0000

Matteo Santoiemma of I Parieti stands among the vines on his family farm.

Italian wine is in full swing. While the leaders of the quality revolution of the 1980s and 1990s are progressively passing the baton to the next generation, new faces are also rising to prominence.

Whether they are modernising family businesses or starting from scratch; whether they have studied oenology or have a different background – for all of them, the challenge today is the market, unstable and moody, marked by a radical change in eating habits and by a young public disaffected with wine.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores from 10 future Italian greats

See notes and scores for wines from 10 Italian producers lauded by their peers

Wines are ordered by colour and score

Groundbreaking Gaja: A lifetime’s work

Discover Campania: 12 wines worth seeking out from this exciting region

Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

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Groundbreaking Gaja: A lifetime's work

James Button — Sun, 24 Mar 2024 08:01:52 +0000

When you attend an event titled, ‘The tasting of a lifetime’, you can be fairly certain there will be some rather interesting wines on show. And when the winery in question is Gaja, you’d better be ready for some very special bottles!

That was certainly the case when the family visited London last October, gathering an impressive audience of journalists, sommeliers, buyers and more in the beautiful ballroom at the Dorchester – and assembling an even more impressive array of wines from throughout the winery’s distinguished history.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Gaja’s wines from the 2020s to 1950s

Notes and scores for Gaja: 1958-2020

Wines poured spanned the winery’s impressive back-catalogue, covering the 2020s, 2010s, 2000s, 1990s, 1980’s, 1970s, 1960s and 1950s, giving an extraordinary overview of an estate (and a man) who has done much to define modern winemaking in Italy.

Gaja: A family portrait

Barbaresco 2013: A retrospective of one of the top vintages in the last decade

Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

The post Groundbreaking Gaja: A lifetime's work appeared first on Decanter.

Alta Langa wines: 18 top Piedmontese sparklings to try

Tiziano Gaia — Sun, 04 Feb 2024 08:00:21 +0000

Opening a bottle of Cocchi's Alta Langa.

Sempre più in alto! ‘Higher and higher!’

In times of climate change and global warming, it seems that Italian winemakers have implemented the slogan of the historic television advertisement for Bocchino grappa, fuelling the idea that viticulture no longer has any other choice other than to take refuge on high ground or even in the mountains.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and sores for 18 top Alta Langa picks

It could be said that Piedmontese producers who, in the 1990s launched the project of the sparkling wine ‘Alta Langa’ on the high southern hills of the region, saw this in the crystal ball. The experiment boasted firm roots: although wine enthusiasts associate Piedmont with great reds, we must not forget that the saga of Italian sparkling wine began in this land in the mid-19th century.

Tiziano’s 18 top Alta Langa wines

Alta Langa: Italian sparkling wines worth seeking out

Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

Expert’s choice: Ageing English fizz

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Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results

Susan Hulme MW — Mon, 22 Jan 2024 08:00:14 +0000

Susan Hulme MW, Vincenzo Arnese and Sara Bachiorri tasted 95 wines with 1 Outstanding and 35 Highly recommended.

Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting scores

95 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 1

Highly recommended 35

Recommended 57

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their currently available vintages of Piedmont Dolcetto red wines, with no price restrictions, from DOCs Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti, Dolcetto d’Acqui, Dolcetto di Ovada, or DOCGs Dolcetto di Diano d’Alba/Diano d’Alba, Dolcetto di Ovada Superiore or Dogliani

Dolcetto is the third-most important red grape variety in Piedmont, after Nebbiolo and Barbera. Although most closely associated with Piedmont, it is also grown in Lombardy, Liguria and the island of Sardinia, though often under other names (Ormeasco, Nibiò etc). It’s an early-ripening variety – two to three weeks before Nebbiolo – and produces deeply coloured, dry red wines with plenty of gentle tannins and lowish acidity, which emphasise the sweetness of fruit and perhaps explains the meaning of its name: ‘little sweet one’.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Dolcetto panel tasting

Dolcetto panel tasting scores

The judges

Susan Hulme MW is a wine writer, editor, educator and presenter specialising in Italy. She runs her own wine training and consultancy company Vintuition and travels regularly to wine regions around Italy. Now focusing more on her writing, she is Italian editor for The Wine Independent.

Vincenzo Arnese is director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, and later at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. A DWWA judge, in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year.

Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge, she was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew then Chez Bruce in London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting results

Americas Pinot Noir: Panel tasting results

Prosecco: Panel tasting results

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Piedmont’s up-and-comers plus the 10 bottles to seek out

Michaela Morris — Sun, 14 Jan 2024 09:00:36 +0000

Piero Rossi Cairo, La Raia.

Italian wine is famously steeped in tradition, with estates proudly touting generations of history. In the country’s northwest, the revered region of Piedmont has its share of century-old wineries, however the second half of the last century was significant in shaping the landscape of today. During this period, families transitioned from grape-growing to winemaking, establishing new commercial entities – mostly small to medium in size.

Scroll down for a selection of 10 exciting Piedmont wines to try

‘At present, most of the wine companies in Piedmont are still in the hands of the generation born in the 1960s,’ says Sandro Minella on behalf of I Vini del Piemonte, a producer-led marketing consortium for the region. Nevertheless, he notes a generational shift. You see this in the 20- and 30-year-olds now running their family’s estates. They have a certain advantage, being born into such a legacy.

Piedmont up-and-comers: 10 wines to try

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting results

The five best things to do in Piedmont

Gavi: The names to know and 10 wines to try

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Barbaresco 2013: A retrospective of one of the top vintages in the last decade

Michaela Morris — Fri, 12 Jan 2024 08:00:30 +0000

Michaela Morris conducts the blind-tasting at Barbaresco's town hall.

The fate of a wine writer is tasting dozens of wines soon upon – or even prior to – release in order to assess a vintage and predict ageability. Far less often are we privileged to sweeping overviews once the wines are sold and tucked away in cellars.

Scroll down to see the top wines from the Barbaresco 2013 retrospective tasting

While I have been visiting Barbaresco regularly since 2004, the first anteprima, or press preview, I attended was in May 2016, when over 100 Barbaresco from the 2013 vintage were presented. Contrary to the latest releases from 2020, which are already accessible, 2013 was patently austere. Even at subsequent estate visits, the 2013s contradicted conventional drinking guidance that Barbaresco should be approachable by the age of five.

See the score table featuring all 65 Barbaresco 2013 wines here

Michaela’s top Barbaresco 2013 wines from the retrospective tasting

Barbaresco 2020: Vintage report & 50 wines tasted

Barbaresco: panel tasting results

Barolo & Barbaresco: 10 high-flying vineyard sites

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City guide to Turin

Sarah Lane — Mon, 13 Nov 2023 07:00:01 +0000

The Mole Antonelliana spire rising above the Po and the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele I.

Unified Italy’s first capital and the historical home of the Savoy dynasty, Turin is one of the country’s most beautiful cities. There’s an air of understated refinement throughout its wide avenues and elegant piazzas surrounded by Baroque palazzi and historic cafes. The Valentino park stretches alongside the river Po, a majestic presence flowing through the centre, while the Mole Antonelliana building with its landmark spire hosts an exceptional cinema museum.

Where to stay

Connect with Turin’s innate style with a stay at Palazzo del Carretto. The beautiful, spacious interiors feature original 17th-century decoration enhanced by occasional contemporary art and design elements. Rooms have coffee machines, apartments have kitchens and there’s private parking.

Where to eat

Among Turin’s favourite winter-warmer dishes are Barolo or Barbera-braised beef and bagna cauda – a hot sauce of garlic, anchovies and olive oil, for dipping raw vegetables. They’re best enjoyed at neighbourhood trattorias of modest city districts such as Porta Palazzo, home to a vast daily market, and San Salvario where Scannabue is popular for its delicious cuisine and attractive dark green-themed decor. Classic dishes include agnolotti (meat-filled pasta), there’s homemade gelato and an intriguing selection of more than 800 wines.

On the eastern side of the river Po, the charming Borgo Po district stretches up the hill with inviting options such as Trattoria Decoratori e Imbianchini, hosted in the appealing house and garden of the historic guild of painters and decorators and serving tasty traditional dishes including much-loved vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce) with Piedmont wines.

Back over the river in the city centre, opposite Palazzo Carignano, Italy’s first parliament, one-star Michelin Ristorante Del Cambio dates from the mid-18th century; Italy’s first prime minister Cavour was a regular. Visit the atmospheric wine cellar and opt for the historic dining room or exclusive chef’s table.

Where to drink

Turin is wonderfully well-off for wine bars, and thanks to the Piedmont region’s 19 DOCG, 41 DOC wines and some 30 native grape varieties in all, it can draw on a supply of local wines that’s hard to match for quality and diversity. Piedmont wines are celebrated each autumn with multiple events within the Vendemmia a Torino – Grapes in Town festival held across some of the city’s loveliest locations.

Alta Langa DOCG traditional-method sparklers open most wine lists and while these are Pinot Nero and/or Chardonnay, lesser-known local varieties are ever-more popular. Fresh white wines such as Nascetta, Favorita and Erbaluce are holding their own among well-established Arneis and Cortese, while youthful, fruity reds such as Grignolino, Freisa and Pelaverga are gaining popularity alongside classic Barolo, Barbaresco and other versions of Nebbiolo.

The Rossorubino wine bar-store, run by the Gazzera brothers, stocks a pretty exhaustive range. It’s extremely active with tastings and events, 15 or more wines are available by the glass and there’s a lunchtime menu. Only Piedmont wines are served, many sourced direct from small producers, at relaxed Caffé-Vini Emilio Ranzini (@caffeviniemilioranzini), where the simple, old-style decor is unchanged since the owners’ grandfather’s day. Snacks include platters, fritters and meatballs.

Places to visit

Crossing the river via the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, the views over the city from the stately 17th-century Villa della Regina are magnificent. One of Turin’s 22 Savoy residences, it was built to the ancient Roman model and Filippo Juvarra contributed to the lavish interior renovation. After 150 years of abandonment, the villa’s Vigna della Regina plot of Freisa vines was restored in the early 2000s by the Balbiano family, whose winery is further out from the city, at Andezeno near Chieri. Since early 2023, vineyard management has passed to the owner of Ristorante Del Cambio and Orsolina28, a winery in Monferrato, east of Turin, that hosts dance retreats and gardening therapy experiences. ‘We will certainly be making a dedicated wine with Vigna della Regina grapes,’ says agronomist Umberto Bonifacino, ‘and we plan to offer vineyard experiences, to share the incredible patrimony of which we’re lucky enough to be custodians.’

Insider tip

Sip a vermouth in the city where the aromatised wine was first created in the 18th century. Even better, sip three, paired with a selection of bites, as part of the city’s Extra Vermouth experience, at atmospheric Caffè Elena.

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Gavi: The names to know and 10 wines to try

The post City guide to Turin appeared first on Decanter.

Timorasso: Piedmont's new flagship white?

Tiziano Gaia — Sat, 11 Nov 2023 08:00:05 +0000

The hilltop town of Monreale, where Timorasso was given a new lease of life in 1986.

Walter Massa knows no half-measures, and his enthusiasm is well known among fellow wine producers. After all, without his passion Timorasso could not be considered a great white wine today, just one step away from obtaining its own named sub-zone of production. To be honest, without personal enthusiasm, and a certain amount of temerity, Timorasso simply wouldn’t exist.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for Gaia’s eight excellent Timorasso whites

The Colli Tortonesi (‘hills of Tortona’) rise from the Po valley in the southeastern corner of Piedmont, in the province of Alessandria, where the region meets Liguria, Lombardy and Emilia Romagna. Their strategic position was already well known to the Romans, who founded Tortona at the crossroads of two important consular roads.

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Timorasso: Piedmont’s rediscovered white

Ageworthy Italian whites: 10 to try

The post Timorasso: Piedmont's new flagship white? appeared first on Decanter.

Producer profile: Paolo Scavino

Stephen Brook — Sun, 29 Oct 2023 08:00:24 +0000

Paolo Scavino sorting Nebbiolo grapes

Enrico Scavino left school in 1951 so that he could begin helping his father, Paolo at the family estate. Nothing unusual about that, except that Enrico was just 11 years old.

Over 70 years later, he’s still there, although now assisted closely by his daughters Enrica and Elisa. Enrica focuses on marketing and administration, while Elisa has studied viticulture and winemaking. Together, the family has built up one of the most respected estates in Barolo, with an enviable record of consistency.

Paolo Scavino: Tasting the 2019s, plus a mini-vertical of Bric del Fiasc

Barolo 2019: vintage report & 139 recommendations

Ceretto: producer profile & 19 wines tasted

World’s greatest vineyards: our top 12

The post Producer profile: Paolo Scavino appeared first on Decanter.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting results

Stephen Brook — Fri, 13 Oct 2023 07:00:13 +0000

Stephen Brook, Vincenzo Arnese and Sara Bachiorri tasted 60 wines, with 3 highly recommended and 40 recommended.

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

60 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 0

Highly recommended 3

Recommended 40

Commended 17

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Producers and UK agents were invited to submit current vintage releases of still red Barbera wines from any of the DOC/DOCGs Barbera d’Alba/Superiore, Barbera d’Asti/Superiore, Barbera del Monferrato/Superiore, Nizza or Nizza Riserva

Barbera is a wonderfully versatile grape variety that can be produced in a range of styles, from lean and refreshing to bold, rich and oaky. Above all, it’s a wine designed to be enjoyed with food: its high natural acidity is perfect for cutting through rich Italian dishes such as lasagne. Acidity can be treacherous, however – too much and the wine will be tart and astringent; too little and it can be flabby or drab.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Piedmont Barbera panel tasting

Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting scores

The judges

Stephen Brook is a Decanter contributing editor and the DWWA Regional Chair for Piedmont. The author of 35 books, he has won several awards for his work in wine.

Vincenzo Arnese is the director of wine at Raffles London at the OWO. Born in Naples, he previously worked at top hotels in Italy, Switzerland and Australia, as well as Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester. He is a DWWA judge, and in 2022 he won the coveted title of Taittinger UK Sommelier of the Year.

Sara Bachiorri is in the buying team at merchant WoodWinters. A DWWA judge since 2013, she was was formerly head sommelier at The Glasshouse in Kew, then Chez Bruce in southwest London, followed by a stint at Italian specialist merchant FortyFive10°.

Prosecco: Panel tasting results

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The post Piedmont Barbera: Panel tasting results appeared first on Decanter.

Long Read: Extreme weather in Italy’s vineyards

James Button — Fri, 04 Aug 2023 12:07:46 +0000

An electric storm lit up Lake Garda on 24 July 2023.

Different parts of Italy – as well as other areas of Europe – have faced severe storms, heatwaves, wildfires and floods so far in 2023, leading to devastation of infrastructure and loss of life in some cases.

In vineyards, extreme weather phenomena have added to winemakers’ concerns around the impact of climate change. Italy’s wine harvest may shrink in 2023, said agriculture group Coldiretti, citing recent storms and intense heat linked to climate change.

Extreme weather in Italy: A new normal?

Two anticyclones originating in North Africa – the first dubbed ‘Cerberus’ and the second even more ominously, ‘Charon’ – caused temperatures to soar across southern Europe in June and July, trapped under an oppressive and persistent heat dome.

According to the Copernicus Climate Change Service, parts of Greece, eastern Spain, Sardinia, Sicily and southern Italy reached temperatures in excess of 45°C.

On 24 July, a weather station in Sardinia recorded 48.2°C, close to the record-breaking 48.8°C recorded in Syracuse in Sicily in 2021.

The heat came as UN secretary general António Guterres declared, ‘The era of global warming has ended. The era of global boiling has arrived.’

In recent years, droughts and floods have also become more common in Italy. The 2017 vintage was notoriously hot and dry throughout large swathes of the country, while last summer, the government declared a state of emergency following the worst drought in the country’s history to date.

In the spring of 2023, flooding devastated parts of the country, particularly Emilia-Romagna, where half of the region’s average annual rainfall was reported to have fallen in just 36 hours.

A flood-damaged vineyard in Bagnacavallo, Emilia-Romagna. Credit: Francesca Volpi / Bloomberg via Getty Images

Storms hit northern Italy

More recently, in July, severe storms swept through northern Italy.

Trees were uprooted in Trentino-Alto Adige and electric storms lit up Lake Garda on 24 July, the thunder still rumbling overhead well into the following day with outbreaks of hail reported in Friuli, Langhe and Roero.

The impact on vineyard areas remains uncertain. In its harvest forecast, Coldiretti said potential yields looked stable overall across Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto, despite the recent storms.

‘Northern Italy has been hit with a frequency of which there is no memory.’

Elisabetta Currado, wine & marketing consultant at Castello di Gabiano and Villa Cambiaso, both in Piedmont, told Decanter, ‘In a matter of minutes, hail can destroy a crop, sometimes even compromising production for the following years. From early July to the present, northern Italy has been hit with a frequency of which there is no memory.

‘You see these black clouds coming in carrying ice that falls, hitting random areas in spots depending on the currents that are created. It’s just a matter of luck. So far we have seen hail pass us by, but it didn’t hit us; we just held our breath until it passed.’

She added, ‘This summer, hailstorms struck at a stage called pre-closing bunch, and in other cases with the berries almost fully ripe (invaiatura). In half an hour of hail, water and wind, some [producers] were more unlucky – as happened in some areas of the Langhe and Roero, where they completely lost production.’

Eduard Bernhart, director of the Südtirol Wein / Vini Alto Adige consortium, told Decanter, ‘We had some hail… everywhere a little bit, but not huge damage at the moment.’

Mildew pressure

Grapes affected by downy mildew. Credit: Lorenza photography / Alamy Stock Photo

For some vineyards in Sicily, mildew has been a significant issue following heavy rain in May and June. The island claims the largest surface area of organically farmed vines in Italy, which makes disease pressure, such as downy mildew, harder to control, and although the subsequent period of extreme heat saved bunches, for others it was too late.

Benjamin Franchetti, of Passopisciaro on Etna, and also Tenuta di Trinoro in Val d’Orcia in Tuscany, said, ‘Especially in Sicily we have had severe issues of peronospora [downy mildew], unseen in the past 20+ years. We expect production to be almost halved for 2023. After months of rain we are now experiencing extremely high temperatures. Let’s see.’

‘The 2023 harvest will be one of the most difficult of the last years,’ commented Arianna Occhipinti. ‘Beside the recent big wave of heat, we had heavy rains in May and June, important for the flowering of our grapes. The start of downy mildew may impact our upcoming production for about 30-35%; the sulphur and copper treatments (the only treatments we carry out in the vineyard) in higher concentrations, were not enough to contain the problem. The 2023 harvest will be lower in quantity but higher in quality.’

‘It is still difficult and premature to make accurate estimates about the quantity and quality [of the 2023 harvest]. Sicilian wine growers know how to manage the effect of climate change, focusing on quality and not quantity,’ underlined Assovini Sicilia president, Mariangela Cambria, who also co-owns Etna winery, Cottanera.

Franchetti added, ‘In Tuscany it has not been as bad. The unusually high levels of rain alternating with very high temperatures have not caused any serious issues. For now we have been spared from the hail and winds which are causing havoc in the north of Italy… for now.’

Some producers in Tuscany anticipate a smaller harvest in 2023, although it is early days and estimates vary considerably, according to a report this week by winenews.it.

It said the Consorzio Chianti Classico currently anticipated losses of around 10-15%, the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino expected 5% losses and the Consorzio Bolgheri e Bolgheri Sassicaia estimated hypothetical losses of perhaps as much as 20%.

Making adjustments

Rising temperatures and increasing occurrences of drought in recent years have caused winemakers to rethink how to manage their vines and how to treat the grapes in the winery.

Many producers, from Piedmont to Bolgheri to Sicily, have stated that harvest today is around one month earlier than 20 to 30 years ago, highlighting the increase in temperatures and consequent advanced ripening of the grapes compared to the 1990s.

Marilisa Allegrini, of the eponymous Valpolicella family, told Decanter recently during a visit to the family’s Villa della Torre property in Fumani that the viticultural team would usually carry out a green harvest at this time of year.

However, the sporadic storms interrupting periods of extreme heat have forced them to wait and see what happens. Allegrini pointed out grapes that had succumbed to sunburn and, although she explained that they currently have an overproduction, they can’t yet risk dropping too much fruit in case of further losses from either sunburn or mildew.

Even if storms do not directly damage fruit, they can still create extra work for producers. ‘The pruning of the hailstormed branches has to be done,’ Currado said. ‘Even when damage seems limited, the vine still suffers from a slowdown in vegetative activity and must be treated with disinfectant products to heal scars and prevent mould and funghi from entering the vine.

‘Effective natural products are now available that can be used even on farms like us that work organically. Avoiding the ineffective anti-hail cannons, the only useful prevention is coverage with anti-hail nets, along with insurance. However, they represent a cost justifiable only with highly profitable productions.’

Canopy management is a technique that has become fundamental to ensuring healthy grapes. Whilst in the past the leaves could be cut back to expose the bunches to the sun for even ripening, in today’s warmer climates the leaves surrounding the bunches can instead be utilised to cast shade and prevent sunburn.

Strategically selected leaves can also be removed to slow down the process of photosynthesis, helping to curtail the swift advance of sugar ripeness in relation to physiological ripeness.

Additionally, cover crops between rows of vines can help to shade the ground and prevent the reflection of sunlight, which can occur on lighter soils, in addition to the benefits such crops can bring to a vineyard’s biodiversity and increasing nitrogen levels in the soil.

In his Barolo 2017 vintage report for Decanter Premium, Aldo Fiordelli noted that producers in that infamous drought year reduced the maceration time to avoid over-extraction. Some producers also opted for commercial yeasts over indigenous strains, he noted, to better cope with the higher potential alcohol of the wines.

During a masterclass hosted by Gaia Gaja on the family’s Bolgheri estate, Ca’ Marcanda, in 2022 in London, Gaja explained that the estate was transitioning from cordon to Guyot training in order to produce grapes with less concentration and more freshness.

Gaja noted that while Guyot training was associated with higher volume production, climate change has enabled the estate to produce quality grapes using the system.

Italy’s hillsides and mountains are also key if temperatures continue to rise, and some denominations, such as Brunello di Montalcino, have already amended or deleted pre-existing restrictions on maximum altitude for viticulture. Elsewhere, producers are seeking high altitude vineyard sites even if they are not accepted within the DOC/DOCG; it’s possible that we will see an increase of IGT bottlings from producers in the future.

Finally, east-facing vineyards are gaining a voice as traditional south-facing exposures risk producing over-ripe fruit. Capturing the morning sun while avoiding the worst of the afternoon rays helps producers to retain elegance and complexity in their wines despite rising temperatures.

Beating the heat: How Italy’s winemakers are responding to climate change

Hailstorms blaze a trail of destruction through Provence

After the fires: Four iconic Napa wineries share their recovery stories

The post Long Read: Extreme weather in Italy’s vineyards appeared first on Decanter.

The five best things to do in Piedmont

Michaela Morris — Wed, 26 Jul 2023 10:14:59 +0000

Piedmont is a captivating region brimming with diverse experiences: you can explore the rolling vineyards, indulge in wine tastings at world-renowned wineries, and savour the delectable delights of local cuisine. Continue reading for inspiration for an unforgettable trip.

Things to do in Piedmont

Explore Turin

Piedmont‘s capital, Turin, stands apart from the typical Venice-Florence-Rome tourist circuit, offering a more relaxed and authentic experience. Despite being lesser-known, Turin is a hidden gem, boasting sophistication and a rich cultural heritage. Its architecture ranges from impressive Baroque buildings to elegant Art Nouveau structures. The city houses a diverse array of museums, historic cafés, and an abundance of fantastic restaurants, where you can indulge in the region’s renowned wines and cuisine.

Discover Alba and its Surroundings

Alba, a delightful town in Piedmont, serves as an ideal base for exploring the nearby wine regions of Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. With its weekly markets and various shops, Alba exudes a charming atmosphere.

One of the best ways to experience the beauty of the region is by taking a leisurely walk from Alba to Barbaresco, following the picturesque Tanaro river and passing through famous vineyards. Covering approximately seven kilometres, this scenic route will lead you to Barbaresco, where you can treat yourself to a delicious lunch at the traditional Antica Torre trattoria. Alternatively, you can enjoy a wine tasting at the Enoteca del Barbaresco, which boasts an impressive selection of wines from 146 estates producing Barbaresco.

If your visit coincides with the autumn season, don’t miss the opportunity to hunt for Alba’s legendary white truffles while taking in the breathtaking landscape. Be sure to savour your truffle treasure finely shaved over a generous serving of Tajarin pasta tossed with butter and sage.

Credit: Lucia Gherra / Unsplash

Places to Visit in Piedmont

Explore G.D. Vajra Winery

Perched above the charming town of Barolo, the G.D. Vajra estate is a must-visit destination. While advance reservations are necessary, you can look forward to a heartfelt reception and an exquisite vista showcasing the best of the Langhe region. The winery’s offerings include a delightful array of wines, ranging from the renowned Dolcetto and Barbera to the celebrated Barolo, along with the opportunity to discover the lesser-known but equally fascinating Freisa grape.

Sorpasso Winery: An Alpine Gem

For a unique and off-the-beaten-path experience, venture towards the quaint region of Carema, nestled along the border of Val d’Aosta. Prepare to be captivated by the breathtaking landscape of terraced vineyards that gracefully ascend the mountain foothills. To savour the essence of Alpine Nebbiolo crafted in this mesmerising setting, make your way to Sorpasso Winery, where the talented and promising winemakers, Vittorio Garda and Martina Ghirardo, who are at the helm of this budding winery, await to share their Alpine-inspired creations with you.

Where to eat in Piedmont

Dine at La Coccinella

‘One of my favourite restaurants, the cosy La Coccinella in Serravalle Langhe is worth the detour to Alta Langa.’ – Michaela Morris.

Nestled in the picturesque Serravalle Langhe, La Coccinella awaits as a true culinary gem in Piedmont. This charming family-owned restaurant, skilfully managed by the talented Dellaferrara brothers, effortlessly masters the roles of chef, maître d’, and sommelier, ensuring a seamless dining experience.

Get ready to embark on a journey of taste as you savour their soul-satisfying dishes, thoughtfully curated to delight your palate. To elevate the experience further, explore their extensive wine selection, expertly chosen to complement the culinary experience.

Piedmont invites you to immerse yourself in its unique culture and charm and you can do so by joining Michaela Morris, as she takes you on a guided tour this October.

Take a look at the brochure below and secure your spot today, whether you’re a solo traveller or a couple seeking an extraordinary adventure. Make this the year you cross something off your bucket list.

Download the brochure

Book now

Turin city guide: Where to wine and dine

Truffle hunting in Piedmont

Get to know Piedmont red wines in three steps

The post The five best things to do in Piedmont appeared first on Decanter.

Ageworthy Italian whites: 10 to try

Raffaele Mosca — Fri, 07 Jul 2023 12:04:12 +0000

Timorasso – a variety that was all but extinct in the 1980s – is capable of producing some of Italy's most ageworthy white wines.

Who would have imagined that mature Vernaccia di San Gimignano could offer an almost Burgundian combination of luscious creaminess and mouthwatering salinity at age 25?

The 1997 Carato by Montenidoli left assembled professionals in awe during a masterclass held as part of the annual anteprima event in San Gimignano earlier this year.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 ageworthy Italian white wines

Vernaccia di San Gimignano was the first Italian white wine to carry the Riserva designation, so the fact that it ages gracefully should be no surprise. Its actual potential, however, isn’t always evident when sampling young examples, which often hit the market too early and display either simple fermentative aromas or unintegrated oak.

Ageworthy Italian white wines

Five pairs of wines illustrating the ageability of white wines from around Italy

Ageing Italian whites: A (patient) wine lover’s guide

Italy’s finest white wines: 20 top bottles, region by region

Want to sell your wine cellar? Here’s how

The post Ageworthy Italian whites: 10 to try appeared first on Decanter.

Gaja masterclass: DFWE New York

Clive Pursehouse — Fri, 16 Jun 2023 07:00:12 +0000

Gaia Gaja at the Gaja Decanter Fine Wine Encounter New York Masterclass

Gaia credits New York and American wine writer Burton Anderson with pushing fine Italian wine to the forefront of the world’s awareness. The waves of Italian immigrants to the United States wanted a taste of their homeland that was not present in the bulk wines from Italy that dominated the market for much of the 1970s and 80s. Gaja has been importing its wines to the US for 45 years.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all 10 wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York

Anderson’s 1980 book Vino: The Wines and Winemakers of Italy spotlighted the country’s fine wine producers. It was a catalyst for New York-based importers, restaurants and sommeliers seeking to learn more about the country’s top producers.

Wines tasted at the Five Generations of Gaja masterclass in New York:

Gaja: A family portrait

Gaja’s Ca’ Marcanda: Celebrating 20 vintages

Decanter’s New York Fine Wine Encounter: No smoke, but red hot

The post Gaja masterclass: DFWE New York appeared first on Decanter.

Truffle hunting in Piedmont

Kelly Sullivan — Fri, 02 Jun 2023 08:09:53 +0000

Forget about ordinary truffles; we’re talking about the extraordinary ones — the coveted white truffle. These gems have become a gourmet sensation, adorning everything from fries and pizza to mac and cheese and mashed potatoes. But we’re here to delve into the world of the rarest truffles, where cultivation is impossible, complexity reigns, and a little bit goes a long way.

Chefs will attest to the transformative power of white truffles, especially when paired with local delicacies like risotto or Piedmontese steak. Imagine the elevated flavours and aromas that await and the wine pairings to be had.

In the northwestern region of Piedmont, Italy, lies a haven for the elusive white truffle — the forest of Alba. Thanks to its unique microclimate and optimal soil conditions, this region has become the ultimate breeding ground for these prized fungi. Gone are the days of grappling with a pig’s snout to unearth your bounty; now, truffle hunting is a relaxed and enjoyable affair guided by well-trained dogs.

If you’re an adventurer at heart and yearn to explore this iconic region, its wines, and its culinary treasures, join Decanter in Piedmont this October for an unforgettable bucket-list trip.

Indulge in exquisite dining experiences featuring the region’s finest dishes enhanced by white truffles. Immerse yourself in intimate local feasts that celebrate the essence of Piedmont. Your journey will be enriched by private wine tours and tastings, where you’ll discover the iconic grape varieties of the region. Sightseeing and leisure time are also part of the itinerary, allowing you to fully embrace the enchanting surroundings. And of course, a thrilling excursion awaits — white truffle hunting in the forest of Alba.

Take a moment to peruse the brochure below and secure your spot today, whether you’re a solo traveller or a couple seeking an extraordinary adventure. Make this the year you cross something off your bucket list.

DOWNLOAD THE BROCHURE

BOOK NOW

Join Decanter on a luxury wine tour to Piedmont this October

Italian wine and truffle pairing: six to try

Get to know Piedmont red wines in three steps

The post Truffle hunting in Piedmont appeared first on Decanter.

Alta Langa: Italian sparkling wines worth seeking out

Michael Garner — Sun, 21 May 2023 07:00:02 +0000

Until at least the 1990s Piedmont was, perhaps surprisingly, best known for its sparkling wines. Nowadays, of course, thanks to the meteoric rise of Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera et al, the region is widely viewed as red wine country.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for six Alta Langa sparkling wines to try

This, however, ignores a strong history of producing bubbles that dates back to long before the middle of the 19th century, when Carlo Gancia began using the Champagne method (‘metodo classico’) to ferment Moscato grapes from vineyards near Asti. This practice in turn built on the local tradition going back to the 16th century of making ‘filtrato dolce’, a low-alcohol, bubbly and sweet white wine filtered through hessian sacks to block fermentation, which subsequently morphed into today’s Asti/Moscato d’Asti DOCGs.

Six Alta Langa sparkling wines to try

Best Prosecco under £20

Asti and Moscato d’Asti: expert’s choice

Franciacorta travel guide: top sparkling wines near to Milan

The post Alta Langa: Italian sparkling wines worth seeking out appeared first on Decanter.

Gaja, pioneer of the winemaking industry, makes its debut at DFWE NYC

J'nai Gaither — Tue, 09 May 2023 15:53:29 +0000

One of the most iconic names in all of Italian wine is Gaja .

The estate is located in the Barbaresco area of Piedmont and has a five generation-tradition of winemaking. It is a winery that has been at the forefront of innovation in Italy, as it was the first winery to introduce small oak barrels to its aging regimen, to produce single-variety wine in Italy, and to use Bordeaux varieties in its lineup.

Gaja was started by Giovanni Gaja, a grape grower, in the 19th century. His great-grandson, Angelo Gaja, currently helms the estate and is its patriarch. But by no means does he run the estate unilaterally. He uses the vast expertise of his children, Rossana, Giovanni and Gaia, to inform the winery’s decision making and ensure its future. His daughter, Gaia, in particular, is his confidant. She is Gaja’s ambassador, acting as the face of the brand for a new (and always devoted) generation of discerning wine drinkers.

At this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter (DFWE) in New York, Gaia will be on hand at the Gaja masterclass tasting through the winery’s extensive range. She’ll lead an exploration of the terroir that makes it so unique, and what’s new and next for the brand. But first, we caught up with Gaia for a short chat in advance of her appearance at the DFWE.

What makes New York a great city for wine?

New York is a great city; it’s very competitive and ambitious in every sector, including wine. In New York, many professionals are at the top of their game, leading and creating new trends.

New York is on an international stage. Here, new fashions and new philosophies of thought are discovered. It is a city that inspires but is also open to new things and to be inspired. This has always been the relationship between New York and Italy.

What are you most excited to see at the DFWE?

This is my first time attending the DFWE, so I don’t really know what to expect! But it will be a moment of sharing between true wine lovers.

I am looking forward to seeing old friends and making new friends.

Why do you think Americans love Italian wine?

The US has been the most important country in affirming Italian fine wine production. It was the first country that recognised the dignity of Italian wines and encouraged Italian artisanal producers to do better. It can be attributed to the massive immigration of Italians to the US that favoured an appreciation for Italian cuisine and fine Italian products. Still, it is also the work of the US press.

In the 1970s and 1980s, inexpensive, bulk-produced Italian wines dominated imports (from 1980 to 1985, Lambrusco Le Riunite was the #1 imported wine in the US with 11 million cases per year). But despite the idea that Italian wine had to be cheaper than the cheapest French wine to sell, some wine journalists also realised that there was a growing number of fine wine producers charting their own course in Italy.

It has been fundamental. For example, the work of an American journalist, Burton Anderson, who in 1980 released Vino, the first book entirely devoted to Italian fine wine. It was a milestone for fine Italian wine. Importers, collectors, sommeliers, as well as other journalists, took Burton Anderson’s book as an inspiration. They soon started to realise that Italy was a world to be discovered.

The US is a historic market for us, where we developed deep connections and relations over 45 years of importing our wines.

How is Gaja targeting a new generation of wine drinkers?

New generations are pulling away from convention and are buying with more awareness of the fundamental values of a brand.

Considering that we have no social media presence and not even a website, we are not really targeting the new generation from a communication point of view. Still, I think our values are unchanged; we have always stood up for an artisanal approach, a ‘thinking different’ attitude, originality and a sense of place, with a long-term view.

What do you think is so enduring about Italian wine?

Italy can be a strong voice against the homogenisation of taste. It is the bearer of artisanal values, and its wines can be ambassadors of humanism.

Essential information

Decanter Fine Wine Encounter NYC

Date: Saturday 10 June 2023 from 11am to 5pm

Location: Bay Room at Manhattan, 28 Liberty Street, 60th Floor
New York, NY 10005

Price: Grand Tasting tickets from $225 + sales tax (Save with Group tickets) | Masterclass tickets from $245

Buy tickets today

Decanter returns to New York for its world-renowned Fine Wine Encounter in June 2023

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The post Gaja, pioneer of the winemaking industry, makes its debut at DFWE NYC appeared first on Decanter.

Barbaresco Riserva 2018: Vintage report and 11 recommendations

Aldo Fiordelli — Sun, 07 May 2023 07:00:28 +0000

Either way you look at it, 2018 was not really a Riserva vintage in Piedmont’s Barbaresco DOCG. There was the spring frost, the hail on 17 July, then a good deal of rain on top of the warm climate. These challenges beset producers desperate for a large harvest after the drought-like 2017 vintage.

The hot weather allied to the rainfall should have been perfect for higher yields in 2018, but instead it resulted in dilute wines in the worst examples, and a light, graceful Barbaresco for more immediate drinking in the best.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 11 recommended Barbaresco Riserva 2018 wines

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Piedmont wine region – Decanter

Barolo 2020: A 'ready to drink' vintage

Scroll down to see notes and scores for Aldo Fiordelli’s 35 recommendations from Barolo’s 2020 vintage

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