In an effort to extend hope and valuable viticultural knowledge, winemakers and wine industry professionals from war-torn Ukraine visited the bucolic Napa Valley, offering a moment of respite from the full-scale Russian invasion of their home country, which began in February of 2022. The event was centred around lessons in regenerative wine growing but included site visits, cultural exchanges and broader lessons about wine growing, various fermentation lessons and best practices.

Violet Grgich, president and CEO of Grgich Hills Estate, whose father, Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich, who famously came to Napa Valley from Croatia, hosted the Ukrainian delegation. ‘We are deeply honoured to share our expertise in regenerative practices with our Ukrainian colleagues,’ said Grgich. ‘This programme is a testament to our belief that agriculture bridges cultures and supports communities through the most challenging times.’

Ukraine has recently become a darling in the wine world, a world in awe of the country’s undeniable resilience. Fittingly, lessons on vineyard resilience and climate change were part of the programme in Napa. Exploring Napa’s unfortunate experience with wildfire recovery in the vineyards, bio-diversity, and climate impacts were all part of their learning.

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One of the Ukrainian winemakers, Pavlo Magalias, is a veteran of the Ukrainian military and has recovered several spent warheads from his Olbio Nuvo vineyards, which became part of the frontlines during Russia’s initial invasion.

‘We have learned a lot about the science of regenerative farming this week,’ said Svitlana Tsybak, CEO of Beykush Winery. ‘It has opened our eyes to new ways of working with our grapes and making the soil healthy while also having a positive impact on the environment. We are very grateful for that and for the friendships that we have made in Napa Valley. We are especially grateful to Violet Grgich and Ivo Jeramaz [winemaker for Grgich Hills Estate] for hosting us.’

In addition to their time at Grgich, Napa’s guests visited with Ames Morison in the vineyards at Medlock Ames in Healdsburg.

The Ukranian delegation in the vineyards at Medlock Ames. Credit: Roots of Peace

The technical viticultural and oenological curriculum included:

• Climate impact and vineyard resilience
• Principles of regenerative viticulture
• The oldest regenerative organic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Napa – how to work with old vines
• Review pruning procedures and impact on vineyard yields
• Vineyard diversity, pest mitigation and new vineyard care
• Vineyard recovery after fires
• Napa’s AVAs and their similarity to Ukrainian viticultural areas
• Natural winemaking using wild yeast fermentation techniques

Grgich Hills Estate winemaker Ivo Jeramaz reflected on his own experience in Croatia during the 1990s. ‘We are heartbroken for them. We know what it means, it’s similar. Obviously, Russians and Ukrainians are brothers, same as us and the Serbs.’

‘This collaboration is a powerful stride towards healing and growth for Ukrainian vintners,’ said Heidi Kühn, founder and CEO of Roots of Peace. ‘We are planting seeds of hope and economic stability for war-torn communities by imparting sustainable and peace-centric agricultural practices.’

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In the mid-1960s, American businessman Donn Chappellet began doing some soul searching and started to imagine life as a winemaker. He had co-founded Interstate United Corporation, a food services business that, at its apex, employed 8,000 workers and was listed on the New York Stock Exchange.

Then, in 1966, at the age of 34, he sold his shares and moved his family from Los Angeles to a remote part of Napa Valley called Pritchard Hill, which is now home to a bevy of Napa giants, including Bryant Family, Colgin, David Arthur, Continuum, Realm, Ovid and, of course, Chappellet.

Today, Chappellet is regarded as one of Napa Valley’s greatest assets, known for its powerful, structured, mineral-driven and ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignons. Beginning in September 2023, Chappellet has offered stocks of its 2019 Pritchard Hill Cabernet Sauvignon and 2019 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon wines on La Place de Bordeaux through Les Vins d’Ailleurs, a branch of courtier (broker) Bureau Barre & Touton.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for 10 Chappellet wines

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Early spring in Napa is a time of promise. Mustard greens spring to life in the vine rows and the coming vintage release still in barrel allows us a look ahead.

Darting from tasting to tasting in Premiere Napa Valley week this year, my anticipation matched that of spring’s exhilarating potential.

Focusing on single-estate blends and sampling nearly 100 Cabernet wines, my early impression is that two distinct styles will emerge from the 2022 growing season.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for the Premiere Napa Valley 2022 barrel samples

See tasting notes and scores for the Premiere Napa Valley 2022 barrel samples

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Ronan Sayburn MS, Eugenio Egorov and Ben Gubbins tasted 49 wines with 3 Outstanding and 17 Highly recommended.

US Merlot: Panel tasting scores

49 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 17

Recommended 27

Commended 2

Fair 0

Poor 0

Entry criteria: Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their current-release Merlot red wines from any recognised US wine region, containing a minimum of 75% Merlot if in a blend with other varieties

It’s 20 years since the protagonist in the movie Sideways – Miles, a dedicated Pinot-phile – expressed his utter disdain for Merlot. Not long after the film came out, figures released by market analyst Nielsen showed a 16% jump in sales of Pinot Noir against the previous year, along with a 2% decrease in sales of Merlot. A study carried out by economist Stephen Cuellar of Sonoma State University and two colleagues, and released four years after the movie, showed a similar effect.

The small drop in Merlot sales, despite the devastating put-downs of Miles, may be an indication of the continued popularity of this variety with many consumers – it’s soft, approachable, easy to pronounce and can offer rich and deep, ripe fruit. At one time, it was even talked about as a potential contender for Cabernet Sauvignon’s crown.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the US Merlot panel tasting

US Merlot panel tasting scores

The following wines all scored 90 points or above. Wines were tasted blind.

The judges

Ronan Sayburn MS is CEO of the Court of Master Sommeliers European chapter and runs his own consultancy and wine training company, RS Wine Academy. A Co-Chair of the Decanter World Wine Awards, he is also a previous winner of the UK Sommelier of the Year competition

Eugenio Egorov is head sommelier at AA five-star The Stafford in London. Born in Ukraine, he began his hospitality career in restaurants in Italy and Florida, USA, before moving to London in 2014, where he rose through the ranks as a sommelier at the likes of 45 Park Lane and The Dorchester

Ben Gubbins is general manager and WSET wine educator at Vagabond Wines in London. A native of Chile, he previously worked as UK & Europe sales director for Dos Andes Wines before joining Vagabond in 2013

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‘I don’t put much stock in these wines you buy and wait 20 years to drink. I don’t buy them to wait 20 years; I buy them to drink now.’ This quote from Louis P. Martini appeared in Robert Benson’s 1977 book Great Winemakers of California.

Louis P. would have been bemused and perhaps proud to know that I discovered this quote after drinking some of the wines he had made not 20 but nearly 60 years after bottling.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from a Louis M. Martini vertical tasting

Louis M Martini: A vertical from the classic California producer

Wines are listed youngest to oldest

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After a very wet winter and spring in 2023, California is seeing another series of winter storms in the form of both significant rain and high mountain snow in early 2024. The state was beset with difficult conditions, particularly in Southern California, where Los Angeles saw nearly half a year’s worth of rainfall in only a few short days.

Fatalities, flooding and more than 400 mudslides were just some of the results of the intense storms in California.

The already saturated ground and stressed infrastructure will make the pending storms even more challenging for parts of the state.

In California’s wine country, the rains were largely seen as a positive, particularly after the 2023 vintage, which is being heralded as one of the best ever for regions like Napa and Sonoma. The banner year was kicked off with a particularly wet winter and spring.

Napa Valley

Bruce Phillips, owner and grape grower at Napa’s Vine Hill Ranch, saw the rains as a net positive both now and for the vintage to come. ‘We received approximately 53% of our average annual rainfall through the month of January 2024,’ Phillips said. ‘In light of the El Niño pattern existent off the Pacific Coast, the Napa Valley had anticipated heavy rainfall this season and was well prepared for its arrival despite the accompanying high winds that resulted in widespread power outages and fallen trees across the region.’

‘That said, because of our well-draining soils and the fact that cover crops were well established prior to the downpours, there was no significant damage to vineyards across Napa County. All of this portends well for the delivery of much-needed water to Napa County and for an increased snowpack in the Sierra Nevada mountains, which is so critical for the balance of the state’s water supply.’

Sonoma Coast

‘We follow a no-till path with regenerative-organic-biodynamic principles at RAEN,’ said the winery’s proprietor Carlo Mondavi. ‘This means that we have a great deal of organic matter in our soils, which helps retain the rainwater, leaving us minimal to no runoff. This helps nourish our soils and vines while also preventing erosion.’

Mondavi continued: ‘With wet soils and severe winds we saw many beautiful old trees fall across Napa and Sonoma, including at our vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. One mature fir fell along the edge of our Royal St. Robert block, crossing a few rows. It’s hard to say what the total damage is, as some of the vines might pull through. It could be a loss of no vines or a maximum of five.’

‘Throughout the AVAs that we work with, the main issue was wind,’ said Kosta Browne winemaker Julien Howsepian. ‘With 50-to-60-mile-per-hour gusts knocking down trees and causing power outages.’

‘While it was a wild few days, the rain was very much welcome. As we head into the 2024 growing season, we have abundant groundwater at our vineyard sites in some regions, including the Sta. Rita Hills, which has received eight to nine inches of rain, we’ve already hit our annual rainfall averages. After more than a few drought vintages in recent years, having enough water to work with will be very beneficial for our vineyards and wines.’

San Luis Obispo Coast

Further south, the rains more than sufficiently quenched some of the state’s typically parched areas while also creating some unease for vineyard teams.

‘On the San Luis Obispo Coast, we received around five inches of rain this past week, which is a nice amount for our typically rain-starved region,’ said Eric Johnson, director of viticulture and winemaking at Talley Vineyards. ‘There was no real damage felt except for a few fallen oak branches. Luckily, we have a couple of weeks until bud break, so the vines and this year’s crop didn’t experience any damage.’

‘We do see two downsides to the rain,’ Johnson explained. ‘First, the storm was fairly warm, so it did nothing to help the hibernation of the vines. Ideally, we would want a colder storm to delay bud break as long as we can to avoid frost damage. Secondly, when it rains, we can’t work in the vineyard. We desperately need to be out there pruning before the vines wake up. Hopefully, we can get some dry cold weather so we can delay bud break and finish up pruning.’

Rain is a welcome site in Paso Robles. Credit: Neil Collins for Tablas Creek

Paso Robles

In nearby Paso Robles, Jason Haas of Tablas Creek is thrilled with the recent precipitation. ‘The rains here were nothing but good news,’ Haas said. ‘We got about 15cm spread over a week, and that pushes us up to about 45cm for the year. That’s about 125% of normal for this date. It’s late enough in the winter season that the cover crops are very well established, and there was no erosion or any negative impacts whatsoever.’

‘Overall, the winter has been delightfully boring,’ Haas continued. ‘Gentle rains, spaced out well, with sun and cold in between, but not too much of anything. Last night frosted, and we’re supposed to see cold nights all through the weekend, which is great; the combination of all the water in the ground and the cold temperatures should do a good job of keeping soil temperatures low and delaying bud break.’

‘This is exactly what we’d have hoped for. We didn’t need another 50-inch rainfall winter, but average to slightly above average water on top of last year’s reserves and cool temps to reduce our risk of damage from spring frosts is perfect.’

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Arriving in Napa Valley with no winemaking experience in 1999, Jayson Woodbridge quickly showed his aptitude for learning from luminary winemakers – most notably St Helena-based Philippe Melka.

Woodbridge’s ability to make fine wine and understand the importance of terroir – and the substantial fortune that he brought to the valley – enabled him to purchase vineyard land in good locations. He managed it very well and produced consistently high-quality grapes to make his Hundred Acre wines.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores of 18 Hundred Acre wines to try

Woodbridge chose a slightly obscure name that no one understood at first. Writers have claimed, mistakenly, that ‘Hundred Acre’ is a reference to AA Milne’s Winnie-the-Pooh. ‘Not so,’ says Woodbridge; it’s a Zen-like reminder of his youthful days as a long-distance runner speeding through the woods near his childhood home. ‘My own private forest of childhood memories.’

Jonathan Cristaldi’s pick: 18 Hundred Acre wines to try

Wines were tasted non-blind

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Carlton McCoy caught Napa Valley by surprise. After leaving his post as wine director at the luxury hotel The Little Nell in Aspen, Colorado, and moving to Napa Valley in 2018 to join Heitz Cellar, the rumour mill churned. Napa locals wondered in what direction this Master Sommelier would take the iconic label.

For Gaylon Lawrence Jr, the billionaire investor and Heitz Cellar’s owner, hiring McCoy was a no-brainer. The two had become friends at The Little Nell and Lawrence recognised all the traits of a born leader.

A rapid rise

After winning a scholarship to attend the Culinary Institute of America in New York, McCoy graduated in 2006 and found work at Thomas Keller’s Per Se and Marcus Samuelsson’s Aquavit. By 2011, he made his way to The Little Nell. Just two years later, he would achieve the title of Master Sommelier – all by his 28th birthday.

Scroll down for tasting notes and scores for wines across the Lawrence Wine Estates portfolio

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Surrounding trees give a secluded feel to the newly-listed, luxurious Napa Valley wine country home on Wappo Hill, but the 20-acre (8.1 hectares) estate also features 360-degree views of the local landscape, including vineyards in the renowned Stags Leap district.

It lies a short way up the Silverado Trail from historic winery Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and not far from three-Michelin-star restaurant The French Laundry, in Yountville.

A view of the estate and the surrounding landscape. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers. 

It’s the first time this property has become available for purchase, according to the listing by agency Engel & Völkers, which has set an asking price of $12.5m (£9.8m). 

‘In a landscape where available space is scarce, this offering stands as a truly exceptional find,’ said agent Agi Smith, with Engel & Völkers. ‘There are only a handful of properties in this famous region of Stags Leap & Wappo Hill.’ 

Smith added, ‘In the past two decades, only two residences have sold on Wappo Hill: Robert & Margrit Mondavi’s home sold to Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo, [and] the Hartwell Residence sold to Realm Cellars.’

A pizza oven sits on an outdoor patio near to the kitchen. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers.

The owners of the current property up for sale wished to remain anonymous, however.

‘They have enjoyed the land for over two decades and are ready to pass the baton on to a buyer who will equally benefit from the tranquility this unique location and estate has to offer,’ said Smith.

A series of patio areas extend out from different rooms of the spacious main property, which is set all on one level.

The main living room. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers.

There are plenty of options for al fresco dining, and a pizza oven sits near the patio dining area just outside the kitchen, which has interiors styled like a rustic French cottage. 

The one-level home’s French cottage-style kitchen. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers.

There is also an office space for home working, as well as separate guest accommodation.

Meanwhile, a walkway named Maple Lane runs around the property and offers views across hills, forest and the valley below, seemingly providing ample opportunities for an evening glass of Napa Valley’s finest.

A small terrace off Maple Lane could be a fine apéritif setting. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers.

While the property has no vineyard of its own, the agency believes a meadow at the estate’s entrance represents a potential opportunity for buyers in an area that is particularly well-regarded for producing rich Cabernet Sauvignon wines. 

A meadow at the property’s entrance could be suitable for vines. Credit: Paul Rollins / Courtesy of Engel & Völkers.

Smith said it’s believed at least five acres of the property’s estate lands could be suitable for vines, but a proper analysis would be needed. ‘A buyer would need to hire a licensed professional to verify how much [land] is actually plantable.’

Pent-up property demand in Napa Valley in 2024? 

Smith said the Napa Valley property market could see an upturn in demand in 2024, following a relatively quiet 2023.

‘As the rest of the country experienced this past year, the market was softer than usual due to high inflation and high mortgage rates. As we closed out this past year (2023), I started to see the market pick up, and as we dip our toe into this new year, I can already see the pent up demand is revving up. I believe the first three quarters of this year will be very strong.’ 

Smith added that ‘Napa Valley continues to bring people in from around the globe’.

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With nearly 1,600 hectares under vine in Napa Valley, Mendocino County and Lake County, Beckstoffer has been dubbed ‘Napa’s most powerful grape grower’ by the Wall Street Journal. Beckstoffer Vineyards weighs in as California’s single largest private grower.

Laser-focused on growing premium California Cabernet Sauvignon block by block, Andy Beckstoffer insists that ‘great California Cabernet grows north of the San Francisco Bay’. Backing this assertion with an ambitious vision, Beckstoffer Vineyards currently cultivates 400 hectares in Napa Valley, 485ha in Mendocino, and more recently, 650ha in Lake County.

 ‘Lake County is the next place for premium California Cabernet’ – Andy Beckstoffer

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My top picks of 2023 are a host of bottles that I found particularly rewarding and which are (mostly) available or will be in early 2024. Please read about them and why I chose them in the tasting notes below.

Here, I’ve composed a short recap of highlights from 2023 which, in case you missed some of the stories, are linked to below. It is a privilege being Decanter’s Napa correspondent, and I’m so grateful for the hospitality extended to me, and all the time and energy wineries expended in welcoming me to their tasting table this year.

Jonathan Cristaldi’s top wines of 2023:

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At the forefront of this campaign is the elimination of glyphosate, the active ingredient in Roundup. It has been the subject of controversy and debates over its potential environmental and health impacts.

Numerous studies have cast doubt on glyphosate’s safety, revealing residues in soil, water, plants, animals, and even humans. The associated risks extend to pollinator declines, biodiversity loss and ecosystem dysfunction. Despite divided views among international regulatory bodies, the urgency centred around vineyard soil, vine health and wine quality takes centre stage in Napa Green’s ‘whole systems’ approach to sustainability and climate resilience.

‘If not now, when? Currently, we have 25 certified growers and roughly 40 growers actively transitioning to certification,’ said Anna Brittain, executive director of Napa Green. ‘Together, these farmers and wine growers represent over 2,800 hectares of vineyards.’

Napa Green executive director Anna Brittain. Credit: Napa Green

Stringent requirements

Of around 20 sustainable wine-growing certification programmes in the world, Napa Green stands alone in its lofty goal to eliminate synthetic herbicides.

‘Our ambitious 2026 vision and strategic plan has the goal to hit 8,000ha certified or enrolled in Napa Green Vineyard, as well as [making] at least 33% of Napa County vineyard acreage glyphosate or Roundup-free by 2028,’ Brittain continued.

Napa Green’s goal is to phase out all synthetic herbicides.

What is Roundup?

Developed by Monsanto in 1974, Roundup became a breakthrough weed-control mechanism for agriculture and a household name for the residential garden market.

Despite recent findings of glyphosate’s link to cancers and other clinical manifestations in humans as well as soil toxicity, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has claimed that the chemical poses no risks when used according to instructions on the label.

While Bayer, who acquired Monsanto in 2018, welcomed the EPA’s statement, the company started removing glyphosate herbicides from the home gardening market this year to manage the continuing risks of litigation. However, Roundup continues to be widely available for commercial agriculture worldwide.

In the legal arena, a federal appeals court ruled in November that California cannot enforce a cancer warning on Roundup product labels, counter to the International Agency for Research on Cancer’s 2015 classification of glyphosate as a probable carcinogen.

Sheep grazing. Credit: White Rock Vineyards

Glyphosate and the soil biome

‘We have heard and read many studies on the use of glyphosate in vineyards but more importantly, we have seen its effects,’ said Kendall Smith, viticulturist at her family’s White Rock Vineyards.

Smith is referring to the damage that glyphosate poses to the beneficial microbial organisms in the soil, such as fungi, lichens, amoeba and protozoa, which are the building blocks of soil health. ‘The removal of plant life within and under the vine rows increases soil compaction, it impacts fertility, biodiversity and water infiltration,’ Smith continued.

Napa Green supporters such as fourth-generation RAEN winegrower and owner of Monarch Tractor, Carlo Mondavi, couldn’t agree more.

‘Glyphosate is the number one herbicide used across the globe. There is so much used, it’s alarming,’ said Mondavi. ‘When you look at what this does to organic matter and soils, it’s troubling.’

Mondavi explains that nutrient deficiencies or imbalances due to reduced organic matter may also impact yeast metabolism, impeding healthy and natural winemaking fermentation.

The real struggle lies in changing the way farmers have been operating for nearly a century. Modern agriculture has promoted synthetic herbicides. Monoculture has led to a decrease in biodiversity. Weeds have become the unsightly enemy.

Changing habits

‘Our great grandparents didn’t farm like this,’ says Mondavi, who comes from generations of synthetic herbicide-free farming.

However, alternative methods are not without issue. Manual labour is expensive. Heavy tractor use in the rainy spring season can cause compaction and soil disturbances.

Like glyphosate, gas-powered tools are products of fossil fuel, creating sustainability challenges of their own. Equipment can be expensive and not as useful in rocky or hilly terrain. The low efficacy of organic herbicides means that continuous applications are necessary.

But Napa Green offers useful resources including the Weed Management Toolkit found on the organisation’s website.

‘We also established a pool of matching funds that growers can apply for to support phaseout, and we are planning a series of training workshops to assist members in this transition,’ said Brittain.

‘It’s not as hard as people think it is,’ said Salvestrin Winery winemaker and viticulturist Natalie Winkler, about moving toward toward organic farming. Over her 14 years in farming, she has transitioned several vineyards to organic and regenerative farming through her company, Traditional and Biodynamic Vineyard Consulting.

‘If you have vegetation that is mowed and controlled, that’s really not a problem,’ she said. Winkler claims that sheep grazing is a great tool, especially in the spring when the soil is too wet for large equipment.

Credit: Napa Green

White Rock Vineyards abandoned herbicides in the late 1990s, embracing diversification with fruit and olive trees, plants, insectary rows and animals. Introducing plant diversity can contribute to diverse root structures, fostering a more resilient and dynamic soil ecosystem.

According to Ben Mackie, Napa Green’s vineyard programme manager, soil health begins to rebound soon after the last herbicide application. Mackie has been designing and implementing regenerative farming systems in a variety of ecosystems for more than 15 years.

‘Fungal hyphae, bacterial diversity and invertebrates like earthworms need time to repopulate,’ Mackie said. ‘This process can be jump-started with applications of compost or compost tea under the vines, and use of nutrient-adding cover crops.’

Economics at play

Some of the main reasons for resistance to phasing out glyphosate are increased labour, equipment and fuel costs. Napa Green offers valuable case studies that cover the ‘how and costs’ of an herbicide-free vineyard by members who share useful information about weed varieties, undervine weed management costs, sheep grazing and more.

Mondavi emphasises the importance of making sustainable practices economically superior for widespread adoption. And while practising pre-industrial agriculture is a smart and effective option, incorporating modern technology – such as electricity – can be beneficial, too.

‘Mowing is 100% reduction of the chemical,’ said Mondavi, who advocates regenerative and organic agriculture with the help of smart electric tractors. ‘The savings are immense, especially for farmers who have a significant amount of land.’

Adding to the economic conversation, Winkler points out the myriad of benefits associated with improved soil and vine health over time – a return on investment with increased nutrient cycling, organic matter levels, soil organic carbon and water retention.

‘When we observe what follows after the elimination of glyphosate-based herbicides, what we gain is better vine functionality and an overall increase in soil fertility. This directly affects vineyard longevity and [the] ability to withstand adverse environmental conditions, which are becoming more common,’ said Winkler.

Credit: Clive Pursehouse

Terroir and aesthetics

Besides offering solutions to vineyard managers on organic and regenerative practices, Winkler also suggests educating the wine consumers’ aesthetic expectations of vineyards.

‘A vineyard floor where there is only the vine is not a healthy situation,’ said Winkler. ‘That’s a monoculture. The more biodiversity you can bring in with cover crops and native vegetation, the more diverse your microbial species are the healthier the soil can be.’

‘And how can you argue about terroir? As the chemicals are undermining the soil microbiome, they are essentially taking away the “terroir” and sense of place – the very things that wine lovers and wine producers talk about all the time,’ said Brittain. She stresses that terroir is a reflection of the land’s microclimate as well as its underground ecosystem.

The journey to eliminate glyphosate from vineyards represents a pivotal moment in the wine industry’s commitment to sustainability. Napa Green’s ‘whole systems’ approach aims to not only showcase the true essence of the vineyard site but also to preserve the environment and pass down healthier vineyards to future generations.

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Many high-end producers along Napa Valley’s storied wine routes took on wine as a second (or third) career after securing their fortunes in other lucrative fields. None of them have quite the same story as Darioush Khaledi.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for 10 current releases from Napa’s Darioush

Today, Khaledi is famous for being the proprietor of Darioush, an eye-popping merger of a winery and hospitality centre he and his wife Shahpar designed.

Darioush: Tasting notes and scores for 10 current releases

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Wine tasting experiences can offer a range of opportunities, from the basics of wine education to exploring the vineyards and cellars of favourite producers. Below, you’ll find an array of tasting options that might make the perfect gift.

Educational tastings

An introduction to wine tasting: Unlocking the Secrets of Wine with Joseph Phelps

Wine tasting can be confounding and intimidating to the uninitiated, with its technical jargon and opaque traditions. But the new Unlocking the Secrets of Wine experience at Joseph Phelps aims to demystify wine’s most perplexing questions through a unique tasting experience – think of it as a way to fast-track your wine education. Attendees will learn what common wine terms mean, the proper way to store and serve wine, the elements of food pairing and more while tasting through Joseph Phelps’ Napa and Sonoma offerings. Guests should plan for 90 minutes for the experience ($150 per person) and are advised to book well in advance as the experience only runs on certain days of the week.

Off-road in the Finger Lakes: UTV tasting at Heart and Hands

The Finger Lakes is an often-overlooked region for exceptional wines, but the world is catching on to the many gems it offers. One unique way to explore the region is the Utility Task Vehicle (UTV) Tour & Tasting with Heart and Hands Wine Company. Co-founder Susan Higgins will take up to four guests on a bumpy UTV tour of her limestone-laden vineyard and explain the winery’s viticultural practices. Following the in-depth tour, guests will go through a tasting of six wines paired perfectly with six matching small bites. The tour costs $65 per person and lasts 90 minutes.

Hiking among the vines at Knudsen Vineyards. Credit: John Valls

Hike among the vines

A weekend-only tasting event at pioneering Willamette Valley producer Knudsen Vineyards offers guests a unique outdoor experience. Picture exploring the vineyards and then tasting the wines from those historic blocks over a picnic-style lunch. The Knudsens were among the first families in the Willamette to plant Pinot Noir in Oregon’s Dundee Hills. Guests will walk among the old vine blocks, taking in 50 years of wine-growing history, and then taste wines from the vineyard parcels they visited before a hearty lunch at the estate. The hikes go ahead rain or shine, so appropriate footwear is recommended for this two-and-a-half to three hour experience, which costs $95 per guest.

Creating a unique wine

Iconic Washington State winery DeLille Cellars offers guests an opportunity to make their own unique blends based on some of the winery’s most prized lots. DeLille makes some of Washington’s most sought-after wines from vineyards on Red Mountain and in the Yakima Valley, including historic old-vine sites. Guests will be treated to a blending seminar from one of DeLille’s team before creating their own blends. The cost is $145 per guest.

Wine and food experiences

In pursuit of the finer things: Three Sticks caviar experience

The stellar wines of Three Sticks need no accompaniment, but everything is better with caviar. The Caviar Experience at Three Sticks is offered seasonally, from October to January. The tasting is held in partnership with San Francisco’s The Caviar Company, whose different varieties of caviar are paired with single-vineyard wines to showcase how one enhances the other. For $150 per club member and $175 per non-club member, this luxurious culinary experience is a well-priced gift for anyone on your nice list.

Creative pairings

For adventurous foodies, Sequoia Grove in Napa Valley’s Rutherford appellation offers a tasty way to explore the versatility of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sequoia Grove was a pioneering Cabernet house, established in 1979, and has since established unique programming, including a famed ampelography class for those who want to level up their wine knowledge and the A Taste for Cabernet Experience.

The gastronomic experience eschews predictable, classic pairings like steak with Cabernet for more offbeat options. Sequoia Grove’s single-vineyard and reserve wines accompany chef Britny Maureze’s multi-course menu, with culinary creativity that will open guests’ eyes to new approaches. The 90-minute experience costs $150 for non-wine-club members and $100 for members.

The culinary gardens at Wheeler Farms. Credit: Sara Anne Risk

A three-course culinary lesson

Wheeler Farms, owned by Napa Valley’s famed Araujo family, offers a perfect gift for your favourite foodie. An acclaimed wine brand in its own right, Wheeler Farms is also home to chickens, an apiary, a large garden and fruit trees, all of which are included in their culinary programme, a homage to the agricultural history of the valley.

The Estate Tasting and Cooking Demonstration begins with a tour of the expansive gardens and the winery itself, followed by an up-close cooking demonstration with chef Tom Harder doing what he does best at the kitchen table. The four-course lunch and cooking demonstration is paired with Wheeler Farms wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, rosé and a number of unique Cabernet expressions. The experience lasts three hours and costs $350 per person for two-person parties, including a gift from the kitchen.

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We live in a truly effervescent world and my pick of 25 sparkling wines from around the globe proves it – and not one of them is from Champagne. They show that compelling bubbles can be made outside the world’s foremost fizz region.

My aim in selecting these wines was simple: to provide inspiration for joyful bubbles that are just a little off the beaten track.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and score for 25 sparkling wines from around the globe

I also wanted a global span and to include a few wines that stray from the usual grape varieties of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, even though these stalwarts show their mettle in numerous spots here and score highly – above all, Chardonnay.

Champagne alternatives: 25 top sparkling wines from around the globe

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The deal includes six estate vineyards spanning a total of 454ha in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast appellations.

Deirdre Mahlan, chair and CEO of The Duckhorn Portfolio, said: ‘Sonoma-Cutrer is an iconic, highly acclaimed winery brand with a long history of crafting exceptional wines in a timeless style and is a perfect addition to our thoughtfully curated portfolio of luxury wines.’

Dan and Margaret Duckhorn founded The Duckhorn Portfolio in St Helena, California, in 1976. It has spent the past 46 years establishing itself as one of the leading producers of Napa Valley wines. The group owns 10 wineries, seven tasting rooms and more than 440ha of vineyards spanning 32 estate properties in California and Washington State.

However, it lacks a meaningful presence in Chardonnay, which is the most popular white varietal in the US market, so this deal should plug a major gap in the portfolio.

Deirdre Mahlan, chair and CEO of The Duckhorn Portfolio. Credit: The Duckhorn Portfolio

‘Sonoma-Cutrer is among the fastest-growing major brands in the luxury Chardonnay category,’ said Mahlan, who is also the group’s interim president. ‘We see opportunity to further accelerate that growth and enhance operating margins of the combined business. This transaction expands our presence and visibility, diversifies our portfolio of luxury American winery brands and dramatically increases our position in the luxury Chardonnay category.’

The Duckhorn Portfolio went public on the New York Stock Exchange in March 2021, with NAPA as its ticket, after raising $300m in an IPO [Initial Public Offering]. Its wines are available throughout the United States and they are exported to more than 50 countries around the world.

In the 12 months to 31 July 2023, unaudited financial reports estimate that Sonoma-Cutrer had approximately $84m in net sales. The Duckhorn Portfolio believes that it can operate at similar margins to the other wineries within its group.

Credit: The Duckhorn Portfolio

Management also expects to achieve $5m in annual cost savings by merging its operations with those of Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards. These savings will be realised in full during the 2025 fiscal year. Brown-Forman, which produces Jack Daniel’s, Woodford Reserve and many more famous spirits brands, will receive cash and stock as part of the $400m deal.

A Brown-Forman executive will also sit on The Duckhorn Portfolio’s board. ‘The Duckhorn Portfolio has some of the world’s most-respected luxury wine brands and Brown-Forman looks forward to participating in its future growth through a minority equity stake and board membership,’ said Lawson Whiting, president and CEO of Brown-Forman.

In May 2022, The Duckhorn Portfolio bolstered its presence on California’s Central Coast by purchasing 107 hectares of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards in the Paso Robles AVA in the shape of Bottom Line Ranch in the San Miguel District.

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For a time, Zinfandel was thought of as indigenous to the United States. Still, that commonly held belief was proven premature as the connections to Italian Primitivo proved the two nearly an exact genetic match.

Though that association with California has not always been a positive one, Zinfandel has long been an important part of Californian fine wine, and the variety is seeing a resurgence.

Despite its Adriatic origins, Zinfandel may have come to the United States through Long Island but via Vienna, Austria.

Conventional wisdom holds that Zinfandel made its way to California with those seeking their fortunes as part of the Gold Rush in the 1850s. Perhaps the first Zinfandel of note was made by Joseph W. Osborne from a vineyard in Oak Knoll District, now one of the sub-appellations of Napa Valley. The praise his wine garnered resulted in the broad planting of the grape, which grew to the most planted in California in the early 1900s.

America’s great mistake of Prohibition would destroy many, though not all, of these old Zinfandel vineyards and set the grape and American wine back decades. The historical setback would derail the development of California’s fine wine culture.

Many vineyards that remained after Prohibition were located in California’s Central Valley, a region known for quantity production rather than the production of fine wine. Napa Valley, with wines showing promise in the mid-1800s, wouldn’t come to international prominence for more than another 100 years.

Winemaker Todd Graff of Frank Family Vineyards. Credit: Frank Family Vineyards

As California’s reputation for wine progressed, Zinfandel found itself squeezed out in many places by Cabernet Sauvignon. This trend, coupled with the soaring commercial success of the sickly sweet, blush wine known as ‘White Zin’, has saddled the once noble and benchmark variety in California with a poor reputation.

‘It’s no secret that California Zinfandel has been subject to misunderstanding,’ says Frank Family Vineyards winemaker Todd Graff. ‘In the 20th century, a majority of California Zinfandel planted was either overly jammy and high in alcohol or semi-sweet and pink. There are many of us trying to shift that narrative today.’

Yet it is California’s Zinfandel legacy which may save it and return it to its rightful place atop America’s pantheon of fine wines.

‘Old vineyards produce some of the world’s richest, most characterful and delicious wines’, says Don Hartford, co-owner of Hartford Family Winery. ‘In California, we have 100-year-old Zinfandel vineyards that display intense aromatic, flavour and textural complexities.’

‘California Zinfandel is remarkable for the age of its vineyards, the people who farm them and the vibrancy of the Zinfandel varietal. For these reasons, I think California Zinfandel will be important for years to come,’ Hartford concludes.

Tasting notes and scores for 10 American Zinfandels

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California’s Napa Valley has long been the ultimate destination for hedonistic oenotourists, with some accommodation options reaching $6,000 a night. While there are still mind-blowing, luxurious stays that cost more than a month’s salary, there are also many more places to choose from, each offering something a little different – and not all of them will blow the budget.

Busy times tend to be around harvest, from August to November, so be sure to book in advance if you want to travel then (and be prepared for the inevitable eye-watering price hikes). Quieter times are between March and May. You may not see grapes on the vines, but crowds are smaller, it’s sunny, and the vine flowers will be out in all their glory.

Food is a huge focus in the region, with gorgeously fresh and simple farm-to-fork restaurants on almost every corner, as well as a plethora of Michelin-star dining rooms, many in the hotels themselves.

For those seeking to pamper, the spa scene has exploded in a similar way to the food scene, with even budget-priced guest houses and hotels offering vinotherapy as well as upmarket spa experiences.

The issue of wine tasting and getting around has been well addressed in recent years, with many locations offering complimentary drivers and shuttles to nearby activities. The most convenient way to see Napa is still with your own car, but if no one on your team wants to be the designated driver (it’s a wine destination after all!), there are several chauffeur companies that will transport you from tasting room to tasting room. Many hotels have solved this problem for some of their customers by hosting their own regular tastings at sundown, often with winemakers present.

Family-friendly wine tourism has improved, too, with children more welcome in some guest houses and hotels than perhaps they used to be. And dogs are well received in a great many places. Welcome to Napa!

Best for vineyard views

Alila Napa Valley. Credit: Alila Napa Valley

Alila Napa Valley

1915 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574

Alila Napa Valley, located in St Helena, is a perfect locale for those seeking vineyard views. Situated in an old Georgian house, it feels more like a private estate than a hotel – an estate with a rather famous neighbour. The historic Beringer Vineyards sit adjacent to Alila, and a good number of the 68 rooms and suites look out onto those very special vines. You can dine sitting on your own private terrace overlooking the vines, and the hotel’s outdoor pool and fire pit are just a few steps away. If it’s a splurge-worthy occasion, ask for a corner suite with one of the huge wraparound terraces looking straight onto the vineyards.

While you’re there, make sure you take the time to try the modern Californian cuisine at the hotel’s Acacia House restaurant. If it’s warm enough, book a table outside on the veranda, where wine lovers will want time to peruse the extensive wine list. And the cocktails are not to be missed.

St Helena is also a great location to explore many famous vineyards and wineries, such as Freemark Abbey and the wonderfully bonkers Raymond Vineyards just down the road. The hotel’s concierge can help organise winery visits, including transport, which may or may not include a hot air balloon ride over the vines.

Also try…

Harvest Inn

1 Main St, St Helena, CA 94574

With panoramic views of vineyards, as well as botanical gardens and tall redwood trees from many of the 81 rooms and suites, the Harvest Inn is surrounded by nature. Seek out one of its enormous Vineyard View Collection Suites, with private terraces looking onto the vines, or splurge on a Vineyard View Collection Spa room, with unobstructed vineyard views from your private outdoor hot tub.

Four Seasons Resort & Residences Napa Valley

400 Silverado Trail, Calistoga, CA 94515

Four Seasons Napa Valley. Credit: Smith Collection / Gado / Getty Images

Four Seasons landed in Calistoga with much anticipation and fanfare. This high-design mecca of apartment-style ‘rooms’ upped the ante for luxury accommodation in Napa Valley’s northernmost town. Sleek hues of greys and whites and natural wood abound throughout the resort, ensuring a relaxed holiday atmosphere. The resort boasts its own fully functional winery, Elusa, which has a cosy yet luxe tasting room where guests and non-guests alike can taste the fruits of Thomas Rivers Brown’s – Elusa’s star winemaker – labour. And they can enjoy it while overlooking the resort’s private, 1.9ha organically-farmed vineyard.

Speaking of spectacular views, Four Seasons’ one Michelin-star restaurant, Auro, is a calming respite all of its own. The intimate outdoor terrace that looks onto the rest of the property is a perfect way to start what will surely be a fascinating culinary journey before setting foot in the low-lit, airy, wood and glass dining space.

Best for romance

Poetry Inn

6380 Silverado Trail, Stags Leap District, Napa, CA 94558

Located on the famous hills of Stags Leap District, just a five-minute walk into the gourmet capital of Yountville, this light and airy, adult-only guest house has just five rooms. Each is named after a famous poet and furnished to the highest standards, with spa-style bathrooms, sumptuous wardrobes and impressive personal service. It’s hard to imagine feeling more spoiled here, where every suite boasts expansive views of the valley, showers both indoor and outdoor, private terraces, wood burners and a well-stocked – free – minibar. You might be tempted to indulge until the executive chef prepares your epic complimentary breakfast in the morning, using local ingredients of the highest quality.

Rooms start at about 88m² and go up to a whopping 135m² of living space. You can hire out the large Farmhouse as a vacation home by the month if you’re so inclined, but you could take over the whole venue for a wedding or other big celebration. The Robert Louis Stevenson Suite is the iconic room to go for, but the Robert Frost room, with its two outdoor spaces and incredible light, is a very close second.

Also try…

Milliken Creek

1815 Silverado Trail, Napa, CA 94558

This romantic, bijou, five-star spa hotel lies off the beaten track, surrounded by leafy gardens. It offers tranquillity at its finest, with spa bathtubs and one-touch gas fires. The hotel can arrange transport around the valley for you and offers complimentary wine tastings in the early evenings.

Best for families

Carneros Resort & Spa

4048 Sonoma Hwy, Napa, CA 94559

With its two-cottage suites, residences and multi-bedroom private homes, Carneros Resort & Spa is an ideal place to stay with a family of all ages. You’ll love the 11ha of bucolic, sprawling farmland, with its kiddie-dedicated pool, bicycle hire and vegetable garden with chicken coop. Rooms are self-catering for family ease, but there’s also a choice of three excellent restaurants, ranging from the lively Boon Fly Café to the grander Farm restaurant and Hilltop Dining Room, with plenty of child-friendly dishes on offer. You can request packed lunches for your afternoon activities or put your own together from the swanky, on-site general store.

For those wanting a fantastic wine-and-dine experience without having to leave the children at night, you can order a wine tasting and dinner in the comfort of your own residence while the little ones are in bed. The winemaker from the resort’s partner winery, Cuvaison Estate Wines, will even join you for a private tasting if you wish.

For those itching to get out, however, the resort can help organise a babysitter for you – especially good to know once you check out all the events at its Pavilion venue.

Also try…

Napa Valley Lodge

2230 Madison St, Yountville, CA 94599

Ideally situated in Yountville, with a plethora of eateries on the doorstep, the rooms here are spacious, with a cosy farmhouse vibe. Try the make-your-own waffles at breakfast and freshly baked cookies available in the lobby every day before enjoying the pool, bocce ball court, lawn games and free bike hire. There’s also a playground and green space just across the street.

Best for foodies

Meadowood

900 Meadowood Lane, St Helena, CA 94574

A perennial favourite for foodies and luxury travellers, Meadowood, despite the Glass Incident Fire that took its beloved restaurant and some of its rooms, still leads the way for gourmands with its seamless blend of life’s pleasures, especially food and wine. Service is exemplary throughout its activity offerings – from the sporty side (tennis and hiking) to the more leisurely spa treatments and hedonistic wine and food experiences.

Chef Christopher Kostow earned Meadowood’s erstwhile restaurant three Michelin stars, but it managed to keep a warm, jovial ambience that was cosy and clever rather than stuffy and standoffish. The new restaurant in its place, Forum, continues in that vein.

Forum is situated at Meadowood’s famed tennis courts under a white and yellow-striped awning, reminiscent of the Big Top of a Cirque du Soleil performance. Wine country ‘starchitect’ Howard Backen designed the space to fit into the natural surroundings of the resort. The premise of the concept was to be a homey, gathering place for guests and locals alike, with seasonally-inspired menus by chef Scot Livingston and creative cocktails.

Also try…

Hotel Yountville

6462 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599

Yountville itself is arguably the foodiest part of Napa Valley, with Michelin star restaurants and an array of other delicious eateries on the doorstep. Hotel Yountville is the perfect base for exploring the area. Still, you’ll also want to make the most of its luxury spa facilities and numerous fine dining options with its cosy, wooden-beam-with-copper-accents vibe.

Best for budgets

Calistoga Motor Lodge

1880 Lincoln Ave, Calistoga, CA 94515

Both family-friendly and dog-friendly, what the Calistoga Motor Lodge lacks in Napa hedonism, it makes up for in charm and quirkiness. This renovated roadside motel channels a modern, mid-century America, camper-van-chic vibe with fun touches such as skipping ropes and hula hoops for little kids and big kids alike.

Budget it may be (for Napa, anyway), but that does not mean there are no treats. The MoonAcre spa and baths on-site are more of a social, fun affair than in other places. Make sure you take time to soak in the mineral pools fed by natural springs and have a go at applying your own masque at the mud bar. Even the treatments have quirky twists, such as massages and soaks using CBD (an active ingredient in cannabis), as well as the MoonAcre mud bake, bath and massage, a full 120-minute treatment. The relaxed and inviting nature of the spa makes it even more accessible and a particularly good location for groups of friends.

Also try…

El Bonita Motel

195 Main Street, St Helena, CA 94574

With its neon ‘Vacancy/No Vacancy’ sign out front, along with the walk-up, one-storey El Bonita does look like the typical motel, but this is Napa Valley – nothing here is typical. El Bonita is an art deco motel in the heart of St Helena. The clean, cosy rooms come with high-end bathroom fixtures, headboards with Napa Valley landscapes, and microwaves and refrigerators for convenience. With two separate buildings –  one of which has three floors and a lounge and fire pit area for relaxation, a pool, sauna and jacuzzi – El Bonita punches way above its weight class for budget accommodation.

Napa Valley Railway Inn

6523 Washington St, Yountville, CA 94599

The turn-of-the-century-style rooms at the Railway Inn in Yountville are each located inside century-old railcars. While basic, the long, narrow rooms are well-kept and charming. Save your money here for a blow-out meal at one of the many top restaurants nearby. Tip: ask for one of the quieter bedrooms away from the road.

Original post by Helena Nicklin updated October 2023 by J’nai Gaither

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To date, much of Priyanka French’s wine career appears to have come full circle – she currently works side by side with Celia Welch at Napa Valley’s Signorello Estate – one of the female winemakers she included in a presentation she compiled for her reluctant, academic parents about her shift to wine.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for four current releases from Signorello and winemaker Priyanka French

Signorello Estate: tasting notes and scores for four current releases

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Described as ‘one-of-a-kind’, the hilltop Napa Valley mansion on Mt. Veeder Road has become one of the latest luxury vineyard properties in this famous California wine region to be offered for sale. 

The main villa. Credit: Andrew Bramasco for Sotheby’s International Realty.

Set on a sprawling estate covering around 52.6 hectares (130 acres), the property comes with a separate guest tower and rows of Cabernet Sauvignon vines, according to the listing agent, Sotheby’s International Realty’s St Helena Brokerage. 

High-profile guests at the hilltop property are understood to have included the Dalai Lama, it said.

With an asking price of $22m, though, the estate is also very much at the higher end of the market for anyone dreaming of trying their hand at viticulture.

Looking across the pool to the guest tower. Credit: Andrew Bramasco for Sotheby’s International Realty.

Bold architecture is a signature of the main residence and guest house, described in the listing as combining ‘modernism, Art Deco and a touch of deconstructivism’. 

Sotheby’s International Realty said, ‘It is the ideal property for an art lover, a collector, or anyone who appreciates stunning architecture, commanding views, and fine wines.’

Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards on the estate. Credit: Andrew Bramasco for Sotheby’s International Realty.

There are around 3.2 hectares (eight acres) of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards, which are the source of award-winning wines, said the listing agent.

A spokesperson told Decanter the vines were currently being overseen by John Deer Vineyard Management, with wines being produced by winemaker Chad Alexander.

Inside the main villa itself are four bedrooms, plus a gym and also a home office.

A terrace that sits atop the property’s guest tower offers 360-degree views across Napa Valley, whilst an outdoor swimming pool lies between the tw0-bedroom guest house and the main villa.

The roof terrace on the guest tower offers panoramic views. Credit: Andrew Bramasco for Sotheby’s International Realty.

The villa, pool, and guest tower were designed by UK-based architect David Connor, for the heir to a Swedish bread fortune, according to the listing agent, which said the avant-garde property was built in 1988. 

Napa Valley is no stranger to luxury properties, and several estates with vineyards have come up for sale in recent years.

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