Wine Regions – Decanter

Marqués de Murrieta masterclass: DFWE New York

Clive Pursehouse — Fri, 14 Jun 2024 09:27:59 +0000

Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, Count of Creixell, presented his family's iconic wines from the historic Ygay Estate.

With a soaring view looking down on the island of Manhattan, Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga, Count of Creixell, presented his family’s iconic wines from the historic Marqués de Murrieta Estate during the final masterclass of Decanter‘s 2024 New York Fine Wine Encounter.

Dalmau explained that he was eager to share his family’s historic story and wines with Decanter’s US audience and that the American market – New York and Miami in particular – is by far Marqués de Murrieta’s most important export market in the world.

The masterclass and the wines on display told a story of three single vineyards within the revered Finca Ygay estate. Dalmau led attendees through an understanding of the terroir and growing conditions of these singular blocks within Ygay’s 300-hectare vineyard holdings.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores for all eight wines tasted at the Marqués de Murrieta masterclass in New York

Wines tasted at the Marqués de Murrieta masterclass in New York:

Six icon wines from Rioja

Decanter’s top tips for buying Rioja

Ramón Bilbao: Producer profile plus 18 wines tasted and rated

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Volnay's new generation takes the reins

Charles Curtis MW — Fri, 14 Jun 2024 07:00:01 +0000

Thibaud Clerget, Domaine Y Clerget

Without Volnay, there is simply no joy,’ declared historian Claude Courtépée in his 18th-century work on the Duchy of Burgundy. The delights of the wine from this village have been known since before the dukes constructed their château there in the 11th century, while today’s wine lovers are discovering them again thanks to the able work of a new generation of winemakers.

While generational change is always occurring, it seems there are currently an unusually high number of fresh faces in Volnay, including the young winemakers Clément Boillot, Pierrick Bouley, Thomas Bouley, Marc-Olivier Buffet, Thibaud Clerget and Maxime Dubuet-Boillot.

To this, one should add Clothilde Lafarge, although her parents Frédéric and Chantal are still very much involved in the family domaine.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for wines from Volnay’s new generation

Wine selections and tasting notes by Charles Curtis MW:

Alcohol levels given where available

Mercurey: A regional profile of this hidden corner of Burgundy

Best value Burgundy 2022 wines en primeur

Discovering white Beaujolais: 10 wines to try

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Napa Valley opens its doors to Ukrainian winemakers

Clive Pursehouse — Fri, 14 Jun 2024 04:00:21 +0000

A group of Ukranian vintners visit Napa's Grgich Hills Estate.

In an effort to extend hope and valuable viticultural knowledge, winemakers and wine industry professionals from war-torn Ukraine visited the bucolic Napa Valley, offering a moment of respite from the Russian invasion of their home country, which began in February of 2022. The event was centred around lessons in regenerative wine growing but included site visits, cultural exchanges and broader lessons about wine growing, various fermentation lessons and best practices.

Violet Grgich, president and CEO of Grgich Hills Estate, whose father, Miljenko ‘Mike’ Grgich, who famously came to Napa Valley from Croatia, hosted the Ukrainian delegation. ‘We are deeply honoured to share our expertise in regenerative practices with our Ukrainian colleagues,’ said Grgich. ‘This programme is a testament to our belief that agriculture bridges cultures and supports communities through the most challenging times.’

Ukraine has recently become a darling in the wine world, a world in awe of the country’s undeniable resilience. Fittingly, lessons on vineyard resilience and climate change were part of the programme in Napa. Exploring Napa’s unfortunate experience with wildfire recovery in the vineyards, bio-diversity, and climate impacts were all part of their learning.

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One of the Ukrainian winemakers, Pavlo Magalias, is a veteran of the Ukrainian military and has recovered several spent warheads from his Olbio Nuvo vineyards, which became part of the frontlines during Russia’s initial invasion.

‘We have learned a lot about the science of regenerative farming this week,’ said Svitlana Tsybak, CEO of Beykush Winery. ‘It has opened our eyes to new ways of working with our grapes and making the soil healthy while also having a positive impact on the environment. We are very grateful for that and for the friendships that we have made in Napa Valley. We are especially grateful to Violet Grgich and Ivo Jeramaz [winemaker for Grgich Hills Estate] for hosting us.’

In addition to their time at Grgich, Napa’s guests visited with Ames Morison in the vineyards at Medlock Ames in Healdsburg.

The Ukranian delegation in the vineyards at Medlock Ames. Credit: Roots of Peace

The technical viticultural and oenological curriculum included:

Climate impact and vineyard resilience
Principles of regenerative viticulture
The oldest regenerative organic Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard in Napa – how to work with old vines
Review pruning procedures and impact on vineyard yields
Vineyard diversity, pest mitigation and new vineyard care
Vineyard recovery after fires
Napa’s AVAs and their similarity to Ukrainian viticultural areas
Natural winemaking using wild yeast fermentation techniques

Grgich Hills Estate winemaker Ivo Jeramaz reflected on his own experience in Croatia during the 1990s. ‘We are heartbroken for them. We know what it means, it’s similar. Obviously, Russians and Ukrainians are brothers, same as us and the Serbs.’

‘This collaboration is a powerful stride towards healing and growth for Ukrainian vintners,’ said Heidi Kühn, founder and CEO of Roots of Peace. ‘We are planting seeds of hope and economic stability for war-torn communities by imparting sustainable and peace-centric agricultural practices.’

Ukraine wine harvest 2023: Sipping resilience

The release of the Ukrainian ‘Grad Cru’

Ukraine’s defiant winemakers look to EU and exports

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Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Figeac drops 40% in price

Chris Mercer — Thu, 13 Jun 2024 11:08:23 +0000

Château Figeac 2023 has been released more than 40% below the debut offer for the 2022 vintage debut last year, making it one of the biggest discounts in a Bordeaux 2023 en primeur campaign that has taken place amid challenging market conditions.

Other highly prized wines released in the past 24 hours include Château Montrose, Château La Conseillante and Château Beauséjour, giving consumers plenty to ponder in the final days of the campaign.

Latest releases at a glance:

Château Figeac 2023 | 98pts (Decanter) | €150 per bottle ex-négociant, down 40.5% versus 2022 | UK price £1,788 per 12x75cl in bond (IB)
Château La Conseillante 2023 | 98pts | €150 per bottle, down 32.4% | UK price £1,788 (12x75cl IB)
Château Montrose 2023 | 98pts | €120 per bottle, down 16.7% | UK price £1,428 (12x75cl IB)
Château Beauséjour 2023 | 98pts | €108 per bottle, down 10% | UK price £1,284 (12x75cl IB)
Price data source: Liv-ex.

While Figeac’s discount is sizeable, the 2022 vintage was relatively expensive on release. A potential 100-point wine, it was the first release after Figeac’s promotion to Premier Grand Cru Classé A in the revised St-Émilion Classification.

Although it remains too soon to draw conclusions about sales, some early analysis has suggested a muted overall response to the campaign, despite several success stories among top-rated wines.

Decanter Premium members can read more analysis below.

See Decanter’s full verdict on the Bordeaux 2023 vintage, plus ratings and tasting notes on the top-scoring wines

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Troplong, Haut-Bailly and VCC released

See our Bordeaux 2023 scores table

Château Margaux drops price by 30% for 2023 vintage

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Sonoma County's best kept secret: Moon Mountain District

J'nai Gaither — Thu, 13 Jun 2024 08:08:34 +0000

Harvest at Hanzell Vineyards in the Moon Mountain District.

The Sonoma American Viticultural Area (AVA) known as the Moon Mountain District presents a paradox. It is both a rough-and-tumble locale with rogue characters who flout convention, and a land of pristine beauty that produces some of the finest wines in Sonoma County.

Nestled within the larger Sonoma Valley AVA, Moon Mountain District was granted AVA status in 2013. It spans just 800 hectares (of Sonoma’s 7,000ha) at elevations between 120 and 716 metres, all within a 15 kilometre stretch.

The region’s hallmarks, that helped it gain its AVA status, are its hill and mountainside vineyards and red volcanic soils. These include some of the oldest vineyards in California too, including Hanzell’s 1953 Ambassador vineyard and the storied Monte Rosso.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for selected wines from producers on Moon Mountain

Wines from four featured Moon Mountain producers

Sonoma travel guide: The perfect three-day itinerary

Sonoma County AVAs: Overview and 10 wines to try

Exploring Sonoma County’s coolest vineyards plus top wines from each

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Best wine shops in Barcelona

Fintan Kerr — Wed, 12 Jun 2024 07:26:43 +0000

View over Barcelona from Park Güell.

Barcelona is the undisputed jewel in the crown of the beautiful Catalan coast. With its unique architecture, gastronomy, vibrant nightlife and warm, sunny weather, the city’s global popularity is unsurprising.

There are currently 28 Michelin-star restaurants in Barcelona and the restaurant scene touches every cuisine imaginable. Yet the real charm and beauty of Barcelona’s food culture is to be found in fresh, local ingredients and informal dining. Locals typically enjoy a light snack in the sunshine with friends and a glass of vermouth, particularly in the long, summer evenings that stretch into the night.

Of course, where gastronomy flourishes, so does wine.

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It’s hard to believe it now, but once upon a time, Barcelona suffered from ‘Rioja-itis’ – it seemed that every bar and restaurant served Rioja, Rueda and little else. Now, Barcelona’s wine scene has something for everyone.

Catalonia’s distinct wine regions are well represented in Barcelona. The very best Catalan wines are to be found in Barcelona’s bars, shops and restaurants – including those produced in quantities too small for wider retail distribution.

There are plenty of bricks-and-mortar bottle shops in Barcelona. High summer temperatures, small homes and a lack of professional wine storage means large at-home wine collections are rare. Most neighbourhoods have good wine stores, or bodegas, where residents can find the perfect bottle of good wine to accompany the evening meal.

Wherever you are in Barcelona, it’s always worth exploring your local neighbourhood – chances are you’ll have a great local wine shop nearby.

Below are 10 of the best.

Bodega Maestrazgo

Bodega Maestrazgo is a third-generation family business, operating since 1952. Bordering the Born, Gotic and Eixample districts, it’s an authentic neighbourhood bodega complete with ‘vino a granel’, bulk wine served direct from large barrels. There’s an excellent selection of mostly Spanish wines. The bodega regularly organises social events and tastings too. You can drink your purchase inside the bodega for a small corkage fee.

El Petit Celler

Barcelona has a growing ex-pat community and the international wine scene is expanding with it. El Petit Celler stocks more than 250 wines from around the world. Sommelier and owner, Sebastián Lozano, routinely introduces wines from his own collection, selling bottles as special lots or serving by the glass via Coravin. El Petit Celler is one of the few places in Spain where you can purchase a €8 Catalan Garnatxa and also sample a glass of mature, grand cru Burgundy. There is also an online shop offering free shipping for orders over €80.

L’Ànima del Vi

L’Anima del Vi is the original mecca for natural wine lovers in Barcelona, run by the delightful Benoît Valée and Núria Rodríguez. The menu is short and charming, continually changing according to season and the availability of fresh produce. But the real beauty here is the wine list, including some of the most exclusive names in the natural wine world. An evening spent with a bottle of L’Anglore Tavel is no hardship after a long day on the beach!

La Vinícola

La Vinícola is a gem in the heart of the Eixample district. Owner Victor Jiménez focuses on Catalan wines, from both French and Spanish sides of the border. As a result, La Vinícola has the city’s best selection of wines from Roussillon. A beautiful, spacious store in Carrer Girona, this is a great spot to grab a bottle with a strong Catalan identity, with a particular focus on Empordà and the north of Spain.

Magaztem Escola

Magatzem Escola is one of the biggest and best – yet least-known – wine shops in Barcelona. It’s located next to Parc Ciutadella, behind the Born Cultural Centre. Hidden away on a quiet street, this vast store has deep cellars and an incredible selection of wines from across Spain. It also stocks spirits, with a strong selection of whiskies. The sheer range of wines, helpful staff and enomatic machines (serving wine by the glass from around 20 bottles at a time) make Magatzem Escola a must-visit if you’re in the neighbourhood. Wines can also be purchased online.

Món Vínic Bar de Vinos y Quesos

Previously known as Món Vínic store, this bar is a spinoff of the (sadly now closed) Món Vínic restaurant. Run by Delia Garcia and her team, it’s arguably the very best hybrid wine bar-shop in the city, with a stunning array of minimal-intervention wines from around the world. In-store wine purchases can be consumed in the wine (and raw-milk cheese) bar for a €10 corkage fee; wines can also be purchased online.

Outlet de Vinos

Located in the Eixample district, Vila Viniteca’s Outlet de Vinos is the place to find good-quality, ready-to-drink wines from older vintages at a good price. If you’re local to Barcelona, it’s worth following the Outlet on social media for offers on wines as they are released from the depths of Vila Viniteca’s cellars. This is the perfect place to find that special bottle.

Salut Wine Studio

Salut Wine Studio changed hands in 2023 and is now one of the most exciting venues in Barcelona. There’s a strong focus on local Catalan producers and it’s a great choice if you’re looking for a smartly curated selection that won’t overwhelm you. The wine tastings and especially the ‘wine casino’ nights are a lot of fun. Located right on the edge of the Born district, close to the Arc de Triomf.

Credit: Salut Wine Studio

Viblioteca

This modern, well-lit wine ‘library’ and bar in Gracia is the work of owner-sommelier and cheese lover, Yolanda Villegas. There’s an incredible selection of more than 50 cheeses to complement the well-stocked wine list, and a variety of other cold plates. Both wine and food can be ordered online for home delivery.

Credit: Viblioteca

Vila Viniteca

Vila Viniteca is arguably the premier wine store in Barcelona; it’s also the largest wine distributor in the region. There are three Vila Viniteca stores in Barcelona, but the Born store is the flagship, with every fraction of wall space crammed with bottles from around the world. What you see in store is only a fraction of what’s available, too. It also has cavernous cellars, so it is always worth asking if you’re looking for something specific. Wines can also be purchased online.

Credit: Vila Viniteca

When you’ve finished shopping, visit the store’s excellent wine bar, La Vinya del Senyor, just around the corner by the 14th-century Basilica di Santa Maria del Mar.

Barcelona for wine lovers

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Rioja’s best wine bars

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Etna Rosso: Panel tasting results

Anthony Rose — Wed, 12 Jun 2024 07:00:10 +0000

Anthony Rose, Susan Hulme MW and Jason Millar tasted 109 wines, with 3 Outstanding and 41 Highly recommended.

Etna Rosso: Panel tasting scores

109 wines tasted

Exceptional 0

Outstanding 3

Highly recommended 41

Recommended 49

Commended 11

Fair 4

Poor 1

Entry criteria: producers and UK agents were invited to submit their red wines classified as Etna DOC Rosso, Etna DOC Rosso Riserva or IGP Terre Siciliane, made using a minimum of 80% Nerello Mascalese or Nerello Cappuccio

In his Native Wine Grapes of Italy, Ian d’Agata writes: ‘Prior to 2000, nobody talked about Nerello Mascalese, or Nerello Cappuccio, its stablemate.’ Today, he says, things ‘couldn’t be more different, and the Etna area has become, without question, Italy’s single hottest wine production zone’.

Whether or not intended, there is a degree of irony in the word ‘hottest’ here, because – with all due respect to the reality of climate change – the huge Sicilian mountain attracting publicity this year for puffing volcanic vortex rings is distinctly colder and wetter than the rest of the island.

The Etna DOC was established in 1968, but it wasn’t until the ‘noughties’ that it saw the widespread adoption of indigenous grape varieties, most notably the light-coloured, late-ripening Nerello Mascalese.

Scroll down to see tasting notes and scores from the Etna Rosso panel tasting

Etna Rosso panel tasting scores

Wines were tasted blind

The judges

Anthony Rose is a widely published writer on wine and sake, including for The Oxford Companion. A DWWA Regional Chair, his latest book is Fizz! Champagne and Sparkling Wines of the World (Infinite Ideas, 2021).

Susan Hulme MW is a wine writer, editor, educator and presenter specialising in Italy. She runs her own wine training and consultancy company Vintuition and travels regularly to Italy’s wine regions. Now focusing more on her writing, she is Italian editor for The Wine Independent.

Jason Millar is a freelance wine writer, consultant, judge and communicator, with a focus on South Africa and Italy. He was formerly buyer and director at retailer Theatre of Wine, and in 2016 was the top WSET Diploma graduate worldwide.

Piedmont Dolcetto: Panel tasting results

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Discover Campania: 12 wines worth seeking out from this exciting region

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Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Troplong, Haut-Bailly and VCC released

Chris Mercer — Tue, 11 Jun 2024 11:44:52 +0000

Troplong Mondot, Haut-Bailly and Vieux Château Certan were the latest major names to release 2023-vintage wines en primeur, on Tuesday morning (11 June).

New releases at a glance:

Château Troplong Mondot 2023 | 97pts (Decanter) | €90 per bottle ex-négociant, down 11.8% versus 2022 | UK price £1,068 per 12x75cl in bond (IB)
Château Haut-Bailly 2023 | 96pts | €90 per bottle, down 25% | UK price £1,080 (12x75cl IB)
Vieux Château Certan 2023 | 98pts | €186 per bottle, down 32.6% | UK price £2,220 (12x75cl IB)
Price data source: Liv-ex.

As the campaign nears its end, early market reports and merchant feedback have continued to suggest a mixed response from consumers to Bordeaux 2023 wines in general.

Most wines have been cheaper than the 2022-vintage releases last year, but a key consideration is also the price of other well-regarded recent vintages that remain available on the market.

See Decanter’s full verdict on the Bordeaux 2023 vintage, plus ratings and tasting notes on the top-scoring wines

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Smith Haut Lafitte released

See our Bordeaux 2023 scores table

Château Margaux drops price by 30% for 2023 vintage

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Walls: Chasing freshness in Ventoux

Matt Walls — Tue, 11 Jun 2024 10:34:24 +0000

The summit of Mt Ventoux

In a warming climate, there is one characteristic in wine that is increasingly coveted: freshness. This is why Ventoux, once a marginal climate for quality wines, finds itself in an increasingly strong position.

Although most of the appellation’s vineyards are at the foot of the mountain, vines are climbing ever upwards, and have now reached 550m above sea level. With Mont Ventoux’s summit at 1,912m, they’ve got plenty of room to grow.

I tasted 56 wines in ascending elevation to see when the freshness of altitude becomes discernible. I was expecting a clear correlation between height and freshness; the reality, however, is more complex.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for top picks from Ventoux

Fresh Ventoux wines

Exploring the Southern Rhône with Matt Walls

Walls: M Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne vertical

Matt Walls: M Chapoutier Chante-Alouette vertical tasting

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Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Smith Haut Lafitte released

Chris Mercer — Mon, 10 Jun 2024 12:39:02 +0000

Decanter's Georgie Hindle tastes Smith Haut Lafitte 2023 en primeur, and other wines from the estate.

This morning’s (10 June) release of Château Smith Haut Lafitte 2023 (97-points, Decanter) maintained the trend for price cuts versus the 2022-vintage en primeur campaign last year.

Yet the wine is more expensive than some of the Pessac-Léognan estate’s back-vintages, according to Liv-ex, a global marketplace for the trade.

It reported that the wine was released at €91.2 per bottle ex-négociant, down 20% versus the 2022 release, and with a UK offer price £1,188 per 12x75cl in bond (IB). However, initial prices varied; Farr Vintners and Bordeaux Index were offering the wine at £1,080 (12x75cl IB).

St-Émilion’s Château Larcis Ducasse 2023 (95pts) was also released, with a recommended UK price of £50 per bottle (IB), according to consultancy group Wine Lister.

Both releases follow a busy week for the en primeur campaign, which saw offers for first growth Château Margaux, among many others. See our scores and prices table for other Bordeaux 2023 en primeur releases.

See Decanter’s full verdict on the Bordeaux 2023 vintage, plus ratings and tasting notes on the top-scoring wines

See our Bordeaux 2023 scores table

Château Margaux drops price by 30% for 2023 vintage

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: High-scoring Beau-Séjour Bécot debuts

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Bordeaux 2010: Reappraising the grands crus of the Médoc

Georgie Hindle — Mon, 10 Jun 2024 09:19:53 +0000

The estate of Château Lynch-Bages.

The Bordeaux 2010 vintage stands as a landmark year, one of the most celebrated in recent memory. Superb across the entire region, red wines reached optimum maturity with bright acidity and firm tannins.

Small berries produced concentrated wines with many having increased percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blends, leading to a slight advantage for the Left Bank over the Right.

Often talked about alongside the equally brilliant but contrasting-in-style 2009 vintage, 2010 offered less hedonism but more homogeneity with excellent red, dry white and sweet examples.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for our top 2010 Médoc reds

Hitting their stride: 40 top Médoc 2010 reds to seek out

Bordeaux 2004: A 20-year retrospective

Top value Bordeaux 2023 wines tasted en primeur

Bordeaux 2023 releases: Price cuts in early campaign

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Worth the wait: Rioja vintage guide

Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW — Sun, 09 Jun 2024 07:26:25 +0000

The best Rioja wines are designed to be aged, first in barrel and then in bottle, for many years. Some of these wines, produced in exceptional vintages, develop great complexity over decades and stay in pristine shape even after a century or more. Such acclaimed vintages from the 20th century include 1948, 1952, 1955, 1964, 1982, 1994 and 1995.

The 21st century began with one of the greatest vintages ever, 2001, and since then it has produced other top vintages such as 2004, 2005, 2010 and 2012. Among the most recent vintages, 2021 and, most of all, 2019, are presented as great, but we’ll need to wait a couple more years to see if that promise becomes a reality.

The vintage guide below should be considered as a general guide. The region is large and diverse, and some producers will perform very well in lesser vintages.

In praise of Rioja’s old vines

What’s the appeal of Rioja?

White Rioja: Panel tasting results

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Regional profile: Moulin-à-Vent celebrates its centenary

Andy Howard MW — Sun, 09 Jun 2024 05:16:46 +0000

Vineyards in Romanèche-Thorins, Moulin-à-Vent.

On 17 April 1924, the area which later became the Appellation d’Origine (AO) Moulin-à-Vent, was delimited – one of the very first in France. Precisely 100 years later, the stars have aligned for this historic Beaujolais cru with the submission of an application to elevate 14 of the appellation’s best sites to premier cru status.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 30 Moulin-à-Vent wines

See notes and scores for 30 Moulin-à-Vent wines

Brits abandon Merlot in favour of Beaujolais

Discovering white Beaujolais: 10 wines to try

Beaujolais: assessing its premier cru potential

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Baudains: Italy's frizzante tradition returns

Richard Baudains — Sat, 08 Jun 2024 07:00:33 +0000

A glass of Lambrusco

In between still and spumante wine styles, frizzante used to be a staple of osterie and traditional trattorie in many regions of Italy. In Campania the bubbles softened the searing acidity of Asprinio; in the Oltrè Po they countered the harsh tannins of the Croatina grape; in Emilia they provided the perfect foil to the richness of the cuisine.

Frizzanti were traditionally made by simply bottling early with a little residual sugar and allowing the fermentation to finish in the bottle. Semi-industrial vat re-fermentation threatened to substitute artisan frizzante, but today it is making a robust comeback – ‘Pet-nat’ is trending.

One Italian online retailer lists over 200 ‘hand-made’ frizzanti, including examples from regions without a sparkling wine tradition, such as Sicily, Puglia and Sardinia.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 10 Italian frizzante wines

10 Italian frizzante wines to try:

Baudains: ‘Natural wines don’t stink’
What’s the difference between Champagne and Prosecco?
18 sparkling wines from Piedmont’s Alta Langa

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Willamette Valley wineries file suit over 2020 fire impact

Clive Pursehouse — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 15:00:35 +0000

Pigeons silhouetted by the sun, in the Oregon wildfire smoke of 2020.

The wineries’ lawsuit alleged that PacifiCorp’s refusal to cut off power to lines in a severe windstorm contributed to the fires that had deleterious effects on the 2020 vintage.

Wildfire smoke can damage wine by tainting the grapes; a phenomenon known as ‘smoke taint.’ It is particularly problematic with red wines in the maceration process.

As a result of the fires and intense and lingering wildfire smoke, many Willamette Valley wineries sold off wine in bulk, declassified wines, made white Pinot Noirs and, in the worst cases, made no wine at all.

Adam Campbell, second-generation owner and winemaker at Elk Cove Vineyards, said, ‘My gut tells me that the total production was probably cut in half across the valley.’

Campbell added, ‘At the time, we were mostly focused on how we honour our contracts with growers, get the grapes in and try and make something salvageable.

‘Subsequent to managing all of that, we learned that there were things that could have been done to mitigate some of the fires that PacifiCorp chose not to do. This lawsuit is about holding people accountable.’

However, the facts of the case would ultimately have to be decided upon by a jury.

PacifiCorp hasn’t directly commented on the case, although it told Associated Press that it was committed to settling all reasonable claims ‘as provided under Oregon law’.

Thus far, PacifiCorp has made several settlements regarding the wildfires. Earlier this week, the company’s Pacific Power business said it had reached a $178m settlement with 403 plaintiffs, in which the vast majority of plaintiffs opted out of class action litigation.

‘The company has settled nearly 1,500 Labor Day 2020 wildfire claims with individuals and businesses in California and Oregon and will continue to settle all reasonable claims,’ the group said.

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Dustin Dow, one of the attorneys representing several Willamette Valley wineries and vineyards that have smoke damage claims against PacifiCorp arising from the Labor Day 2020 fires, told Decanter: ‘Our clients are bringing these claims because PacifiCorp’s actions caused at least seven fires throughout Oregon on 7 and 8 September, 2020. These fires were a substantial factor in damaging our clients’ grapes and wine with smoke taint.’

It’s understood from Dow’s comments that a key issue regarding the complaint is the extent to which fires may have been caused or exacerbated by PacifiCorp leaving power lines energised.

Elk Cove’s Campbell said winemakers tried to make the best of a very difficult situation, but still saw a big impact from the wildfires.

‘We felt like we made some good decisions to mitigate some of the problems,’ he said. ‘In reality, in the best cases, our yields were cut in half. I know we made good wine; we wouldn’t have released it if we hadn’t.’

Campbell added, ‘We followed the research out of Australia about reducing press fractions, making more rosé, and pressing lighter. All of that impacted the amount of wine we were able to make.

‘We sold off wine as a lot of bulk wine and, in some cases, didn’t make wine from the most affected vineyards. Less extraction, lighter pressing – we tried it all. We even used milk products for fining; we did things we would never do. We salvaged what we could, but there was a lot of loss. We didn’t make reserve or single vineyard wines that vintage, which was a blow financially.’

Of the lawsuit, Campbell said, ‘Our goal here is to hold people to account. We’re not interested in jumping the line in front of people who lost their homes or entire timberland that was devastated. We’re aware that we lost half of one vintage and that some people lost everything.’

After the fires: Four iconic Napa wineries share their recovery stories

Wildfires in Chile rip through historic vineyards and destroy wineries

Navigating the flames: British Columbia wineries’ response to the growing wildfire threat

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Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: High-scoring Beau-Séjour Bécot debuts

Chris Mercer — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 12:52:27 +0000

St-Émilion’s Château Beau-Séjour Bécot and Margaux-based Château Lascombes released their 2023 wines this morning (7 June) after achieving high scores relative to previous vintages.

Pomerol-based Clinet 2023 was also released this morning, and all three estates continued this year’s theme of dropping prices versus last year’s campaign for the 2022 vintage (see more analysis below).

Three releases today:

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot 2023 | 97pts (Decanter) | €43.2 per bottle ex-négociant, down 24.2% versus 2022 | UK price £516 per 12x75cl in bond (IB)
Château Lascombes 2023 | 94pts | €49.2 per bottle, down 21.2% | UK price £595 (12x75cl IB)
Château Clinet 2023 | 93pts | €57.6 per bottle, down 29.4% | UK price £690 (12x75cl IB)
Price data source: Liv-ex.

Friday’s releases follow the launch of first growth Château Margaux yesterday (6 June). Before that, the market saw the release of châteaux Canon, Rauzan-Ségla and Les Carmes Haut-Brion yesterday, Pavie, Pichon Baron and L’Eglise Clinet on Tuesday, and Pichon Comtesse and Palmer at the beginning of the week.

See Decanter’s full verdict on the Bordeaux 2023 vintage, ratings and tasting notes for all the top-scoring wines

Château Margaux 2023 drops price by 30%

Bordeaux 2023: Our en primeur verdict and top-scoring wines

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: ‘Brilliant’ Pichon Comtesse down 35%

The post Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: High-scoring Beau-Séjour Bécot debuts appeared first on Decanter.

How to blind taste Bordeaux

Natasha Hughes MW — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 08:26:53 +0000

It’s a bit like one of those bad dreams. There you are, with a line-up of glasses half full of red wine laid out in front of you. You know that you are going to be asked to identify the origins of those wines. No one will give you the slightest clue. And you’ve only got a few minutes per wine to do the job.

Nightmarish as this sounds, the scenario will be familiar to anyone who’s ever sat a blind-tasting wine exam. But let’s make the task a little bit easier, shall we? Let’s assume that you’re told that the wines all come from within the Bordeaux region.

Even then, trying to pin down the source of each of them is no easy task. Nevertheless, every glass of wine contains clues – the question is, what’s the best way of making these clues add up to a strong conclusion?

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: ‘Brilliant’ Pichon Comtesse down 35%

Bordeaux 2023: Our en primeur verdict and top-scoring wines

Bordeaux 2023 wine styles: What to expect

The post How to blind taste Bordeaux appeared first on Decanter.

Decanter partners with the International Pinot Noir Celebration

Clive Pursehouse — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 05:40:58 +0000

The International Pinot Noir Celebration takes place 26-28 June 2024.

A first in its 38 years of existence, the International Pinot Noir Celebration (IPNC) has chosen a media partner, Decanter magazine, in a pivotal year for the event –one of America’s longest-running wine celebrations.

The weekend of 26-28 July 2024 will mark an historic final IPNC weekend, as organisers have designs on pivoting to a different format for the event.

IPNC is a one-of-a-kind wine event held in McMinnville, Oregon that brings an array of Pinot Noir producers from around the world to the campus of Linfield University and the hillside vineyards of the Willamette Valley. The three-day immersive experience includes names like Burgundy’s revered Domaine des Comtes Lafon, CHACRA from Patagonia, and many Oregon and California producers, including Sonoma’s Three Sticks and Oregon stalwarts, Bethel Heights and Beaux Frères.

‘I was part of the first IPNC in 1987,’ said Dominique Lafon of Domaine des Comtes Lafon. ‘This celebration was key for the strong relationships between the burgeoning wine industry in Oregon and Burgundy. The event also puts the spotlight on Pinot Noir worldwide. I’ll be happy to participate in this wonderful event one more time with my family.’

Attendees will have access to in-depth, up-close wine education with some of the world’s biggest names in Pinot Noir. Raj Parr will provide the keynote address. The Grand Seminar, moderated by Karen MacNeil, will explore Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Champagne to Burgundy to South America and the US West Coast. There will be vineyard tours and intimate University of Pinot seminars.

The meals at IPNC include food prepared by some of the Northwest’s best chefs and deep verticals of Pinot Noir from the extensive IPNC library collection.

Guests may purchase tickets for individual events, including the Sunday Sparkling Brunch, the IPNC Salmon Bake, or the entire weekend.

Decanter’s North America editor, Clive Pursehouse, will be in attendance. IPNC represents an excellent opportunity for Decanter to speak with American wine lovers as the publication seeks to expand further into the US market, having launched a US team almost two years ago.

‘We are thrilled to have the sponsorship and support of Decanter magazine for the 2024 event,’ said Thomas Savre, president of the IPNC board, and winemaker for Lingua Franca. ‘This collaboration not only validates our event’s exceptional quality and reputation but also underscores our shared commitment to promoting excellence in the world of wine.’

‘This event is beloved by the industry and Pinot Noir fans. I am looking forward to celebrating one more time with the guests and some of the best Pinot Noir makers from all over the world. IPNC may be closing a chapter, but the book still has many pages to be written,’ Savre added.

DWWA results out 19 June!
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The sommelier suggests… Oregon Pinot Gris by Ron Acierto

Oregon’s Willamette Valley 2021: Vintage report and top-scoring wines

US West Coast: The new vanguard

The post Decanter partners with the International Pinot Noir Celebration appeared first on Decanter.

Top picks for World Verdejo Day on 14 June

Chris Wilson — Fri, 07 Jun 2024 05:35:11 +0000

Three Verdejo wines from Bodega Cuatro Rayas in DO Rueda, Spain

Verdejo is one of Spain’s most planted white grape varieties. It accounts for 8% of all white grapes planted in Spain and is grown all over the country from Rioja to La Mancha and Almansa, but its home is in Rueda in the Castilla y León region.

‘It is in the expansive region of Castilla y León where the Verdejo grape reigns,’ wrote Beth Willard in the introduction to Decanter’s 2022 Spanish Verdejo panel tasting. ‘High on the windy and sparsely populated plains of the Meseta Central, north of Madrid, the variety fully develops its showy lime and tropical aromas with racy acidity,’ she added.

DWWA results out 19 June!
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World Verdejo Day on Friday 14 June celebrates the grape variety in its myriad styles; as well as its classic unoaked incarnation which offers stone and tropical fruit and refreshing acidity, you can find oaked and even oxidised versions of this versatile grape.

Here’s a handful to enjoy on World Verdejo Day, or any day for that matter, including a 98-point scoring non-vintage wine, supermarket picks and one from Mendoza in Argentina.

World Verdejo Day: Top wines to try

Expert’s choice: Ribera del Duero wines under £30

White Rioja: Panel tasting results

Xarel·lo: From Cava workhorse to white wine thoroughbred

The post Top picks for World Verdejo Day on 14 June appeared first on Decanter.

Bordeaux 2023 market analysis: Château Margaux drops price by 30%

Chris Mercer — Thu, 06 Jun 2024 11:18:15 +0000

Château Margaux.

Château Margaux 2023 was released this morning (6 June), alongside the estate’s Pavillon Rouge and Pavillon Blanc labels, with Gruaud Larose and Calon Ségur also joining the day’s offerings.

Releases at a glance:

Château Margaux 2023: 98pts (Decanter) | €360 per bottle ex-négociant, down 30.2% versus 2022 | UK price £4,320 per 12x75cl in bond (IB)
Pavillon Rouge 2023: 93pts | €120 per bottle, down 20% | UK price £1,440 (12x75cl IB)
Pavillon Blanc 2023: 96pts | €240 per bottle, down 9.4% | UK price £2,880 (12x75cl IB)
Château Gruaud Larose 2023: 97pts | €60 per bottle, down 13.8% | UK price £716 (12x75cl IB)
Château Calon Ségur 2023: 96pts | €78 per bottle, down 23.5% | UK price £936 (12x75cl IB)*
Price data source: Liv-ex.

Château Margaux’s appearance means that all of the Left Bank first growths have now released their 2023 wines, except Château Latour, which no longer participates in en primeur.

It follows the launch of châteaux Canon, Rauzan-Ségla and Les Carmes Haut-Brion yesterday, Pavie, Pichon Baron and L’Eglise Clinet on Tuesday, and Pichon Comtesse and Palmer at the beginning of the week.

A trend for year-on-year discounts has continued, but analysts have also highlighted potential opportunities for buyers interested in back-vintages.

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DWWA results out 19 June!
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Be the first to know: Subscribe to the DWWA newsletter

DWWA results out 19 June!
Be the first to know: Subscribe to the DWWA newsletter

DWWA results out 19 June!
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