Barcelona is the undisputed jewel in the crown of the beautiful Catalan coast. With its unique architecture, gastronomy, vibrant nightlife and warm, sunny weather, the city’s global popularity is unsurprising.

There are currently 28 Michelin-star restaurants in Barcelona and the restaurant scene touches every cuisine imaginable. Yet the real charm and beauty of Barcelona’s food culture is to be found in fresh, local ingredients and informal dining. Locals typically enjoy a light snack in the sunshine with friends and a glass of vermouth, particularly in the long, summer evenings that stretch into the night.

Of course, where gastronomy flourishes, so does wine.

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It’s hard to believe it now, but once upon a time, Barcelona suffered from ‘Rioja-itis’ – it seemed that every bar and restaurant served Rioja, Rueda and little else. Now, Barcelona’s wine scene has something for everyone.

Catalonia’s distinct wine regions are well represented in Barcelona. The very best Catalan wines are to be found in Barcelona’s bars, shops and restaurants – including those produced in quantities too small for wider retail distribution.

There are plenty of bricks-and-mortar bottle shops in Barcelona. High summer temperatures, small homes and a lack of professional wine storage means large at-home wine collections are rare. Most neighbourhoods have good wine stores, or bodegas, where residents can find the perfect bottle of good wine to accompany the evening meal.

Wherever you are in Barcelona, it’s always worth exploring your local neighbourhood – chances are you’ll have a great local wine shop nearby.

Below are 10 of the best.

Bodega Maestrazgo

Bodega Maestrazgo is a third-generation family business, operating since 1952. Bordering the Born, Gotic and Eixample districts, it’s an authentic neighbourhood bodega complete with ‘vino a granel’, bulk wine served direct from large barrels. There’s an excellent selection of mostly Spanish wines. The bodega regularly organises social events and tastings too. You can drink your purchase inside the bodega for a small corkage fee.

El Petit Celler

Barcelona has a growing ex-pat community and the international wine scene is expanding with it. El Petit Celler stocks more than 250 wines from around the world. Sommelier and owner, Sebastián Lozano, routinely introduces wines from his own collection, selling bottles as special lots or serving by the glass via Coravin. El Petit Celler is one of the few places in Spain where you can purchase a €8 Catalan Garnatxa and also sample a glass of mature, grand cru Burgundy. There is also an online shop offering free shipping for orders over €80.

L’Ànima del Vi

L’Anima del Vi is the original mecca for natural wine lovers in Barcelona, run by the delightful Benoît Valée and Núria Rodríguez. The menu is short and charming, continually changing according to season and the availability of fresh produce. But the real beauty here is the wine list, including some of the most exclusive names in the natural wine world. An evening spent with a bottle of L’Anglore Tavel is no hardship after a long day on the beach!

La Vinícola

La Vinícola is a gem in the heart of the Eixample district. Owner Victor Jiménez focuses on Catalan wines, from both French and Spanish sides of the border. As a result, La Vinícola has the city’s best selection of wines from Roussillon. A beautiful, spacious store in Carrer Girona, this is a great spot to grab a bottle with a strong Catalan identity, with a particular focus on Empordà and the north of Spain.

Magaztem Escola

Magatzem Escola is one of the biggest and best – yet least-known – wine shops in Barcelona. It’s located next to Parc Ciutadella, behind the Born Cultural Centre. Hidden away on a quiet street, this vast store has deep cellars and an incredible selection of wines from across Spain. It also stocks spirits, with a strong selection of whiskies. The sheer range of wines, helpful staff and enomatic machines (serving wine by the glass from around 20 bottles at a time) make Magatzem Escola a must-visit if you’re in the neighbourhood. Wines can also be purchased online.

Món Vínic Bar de Vinos y Quesos

Previously known as Món Vínic store, this bar is a spinoff of the (sadly now closed) Món Vínic restaurant. Run by Delia Garcia and her team, it’s arguably the very best hybrid wine bar-shop in the city, with a stunning array of minimal-intervention wines from around the world. In-store wine purchases can be consumed in the wine (and raw-milk cheese) bar for a €10 corkage fee; wines can also be purchased online.

Outlet de Vinos

Located in the Eixample district, Vila Viniteca’s Outlet de Vinos is the place to find good-quality, ready-to-drink wines from older vintages at a good price. If you’re local to Barcelona, it’s worth following the Outlet on social media for offers on wines as they are released from the depths of Vila Viniteca’s cellars. This is the perfect place to find that special bottle.

Salut Wine Studio

Salut Wine Studio changed hands in 2023 and is now one of the most exciting venues in Barcelona. There’s a strong focus on local Catalan producers and it’s a great choice if you’re looking for a smartly curated selection that won’t overwhelm you. The wine tastings and especially the ‘wine casino’ nights are a lot of fun. Located right on the edge of the Born district, close to the Arc de Triomf.

Credit: Salut Wine Studio

Viblioteca

This modern, well-lit wine ‘library’ and bar in Gracia is the work of owner-sommelier and cheese lover, Yolanda Villegas. There’s an incredible selection of more than 50 cheeses to complement the well-stocked wine list, and a variety of other cold plates. Both wine and food can be ordered online for home delivery.

Credit: Viblioteca

Vila Viniteca

Vila Viniteca is arguably the premier wine store in Barcelona; it’s also the largest wine distributor in the region. There are three Vila Viniteca stores in Barcelona, but the Born store is the flagship, with every fraction of wall space crammed with bottles from around the world. What you see in store is only a fraction of what’s available, too. It also has cavernous cellars, so it is always worth asking if you’re looking for something specific. Wines can also be purchased online.

Credit: Vila Viniteca

When you’ve finished shopping, visit the store’s excellent wine bar, La Vinya del Senyor, just around the corner by the 14th-century Basilica di Santa Maria del Mar.

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Herzegovina, the smaller, southern part of Bosnia and Herzegovina, has at least 2,000 years of viticultural history, but it has really blossomed during the last 20. More than 30 modern wineries dot this sun-drenched strip abutting Croatia. Alongside these contemporary vineyards, the majority of families in this region of roughly 350,000 inhabitants make their own wine. Only-try-here bottles of humble yet hearty ‘vina’ are sold on the roadside next to wild honey and pomegranates. Bordeaux it isn’t.

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Wine-tasting in Herzegovina – a resolutely welcoming experience, where wine is often paired with pršut (local prosciutto) – revolves around two indigenous grapes. Blatina is a madcap red that erupts in the glass like a plum volcano. Yet it’s tricky to grow even here. Its flowers are auto-sterile, meaning they can’t fertilise themselves and the vines must be planted with another variety, though this still doesn’t guarantee fruit production, hence the variety’s nickname: ‘empty barrel’. The Austro-Hungarian emperors, who ruled Herzegovina from 1878 until World War I, preferred the zingy, mineral-rich white Žilavka. In the words of one of Herzegovina’s hottest young winemakers, Milena Anđelić: ‘Our guests didn’t fly thousands of miles to try Cab Sauv.’

Opened in 2007 and upgraded and re-launched in 2023, the Herzegovina Wine Route, which starts in the pretty regional capital of Mostar, reveals this burgeoning wine region to a wider audience. This year, 300 wine-friendly hotels, restaurants and experiences are expected to join the 30-odd wineries on an interactive route map, alongside canoeing, bike trails and historic towns in the hilly hinterland. Best of all, the route unites wine lovers of all faiths in a region once riven by difference. Visit now and you’ll be among the first to sip the latest generation of one-off wines.

Looking over Svitavsko lake on the Ćiro bike trail

Striking out from Mostar

Andrija Ćorić is vice president of the Herzegovina Wine Route. His great-grandfather Šimun soldiered for 12 years for the Austro-Hungarian Empire and was repaid with some sloping, stony land in the village of Paoča near Čitluk. Here the Andrija vineyard, named after Šimun’s son, was established, a 30-minute rollercoaster drive southwest from Mostar. In 2019, the historic winery was modernised, and it’s now a viticultural playground with a wine library, stroll-through cellars, tasting rooms, boutique guestrooms and a gourmet restaurant. ‘God gave us stones, sunshine and two grapes you won’t find anywhere else,’ says Ćorić.

During the socialist era, when families in the former Yugoslavia were limited to making 100 litres of wine a year for personal consumption, Andrija was given special dispensation to produce creamy Žilavka whites, with the honeysuckle subtlety of a wildflower meadow, for national leader Josip Tito. When war came to the Balkans in the 1990s, the Ćorić family didn’t miss a single vintage, despite a bomb falling on its vineyard. Wine and food tastings (€10-€40), conducted by generous hosts Andrija, his sister Katarina and loquacious patriarch Miro, are superb. Their Blatina Andrija Selection revs like a Formula 1 car then finishes like a slow cruise through an orchard of cherries.

Also southwest of Mostar is biodynamic pioneer Brkić. This bucolic vineyard produces a landmark organic Žilavka. Like most wineries in Herzegovina, a call or WhatsApp a few days in advance will allow host Josip and his three young sons to prepare a wine tasting with some homemade bread, pršut and two types of cheese (€25 per person), or arrange a local driver or activities. Visitors are welcome to help with the September harvests. Other wine-related activities and tours in Herzegovina are generally open from Easter until October.

The waterfall of Kravica. Credit: Federica Gentile / Getty Images

Towards Trebnije

The city of Trebinje is situated on the banks of the Trebišnjica river. Credit: CCR_358 / Getty Images

The Herzegovina Wine Route is criss-crossed by a unique cycling trail. Until 1976, a steam train, first operated by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, chuffed its way from Mostar, through the countryside and eventually to Dubrovnik. Today the Ćiro (as the train line was known) has been remade as a pastoral bike trail dotted with rural hotels serving burek pastries and trout plucked from the river. The 142km section that roughly follows the wine route runs from Mostar all the way to Trebinje, Herzegovina’s other major winemaking area. If driving, Mostar and Trebinje are two hours apart.

Trebinje is a majority ethnic Serb area of Herzegovina. It’s home to the visitor-friendly Tvrdoš monastery, where a religious order has made a flinty Žilavka since the 15th century. The head cellarman, behind such Decanter award-winning wines as the Velika Rezerva 2016 (DWWA Bronze in 2018), is a monk. Try the juxtaposition of tasting in the medieval cellar then making your way upstairs and gazing up at the adjoining monastery’s frescoed dome, a religious vision in cobalt and gold.

In Trebinje, a 10-minute drive from the monastery, one of the largest and most impressive wine operations in the area was created in a single generation by Radovan Vukoje. In 2000, aged 20, Vukoje harvested his first grapes at winery Vukoje 1982 while studying oenology in Belgrade. His wines can be tasted in the seven-storey cellar, fermentation room, restaurant and rooftop bar, which overlooks Trebinje. A favourite is the 2018 pure Vranac. Made with big, black liquorice-tang Vranac grapes, this wine tastes large and lasts long – imagine a Balkan amarone.

Vukoje’s latest project delivers history in a glass. In 2023, he purchased the last of 11 parcels of land that once made up the personal vineyard of Emperor Franz Joseph (who died in 1916). He now escorts guests there for summertime tastings, a 10-minute drive from Trebinje through fig orchards. Vukoje’s Carsko Vino – ‘csar’s wine’ – is predominantly Žilavka and as unctuous as a peach smoothie. ‘Now they drink it in Vienna again,’ smiles Vukoje.

On the road back to Trebinje, an absolute must-visit is Vinarija Anđelić. Run by mother-and-daughter team Milica and Milena, the winery is sited inside a rock cavern that the family hollowed out using construction dynamite in 2004. (Milena, now 24, used to rock climb around the cellar walls.) At their new tasting room (due to open in 2024), try the signature Žilavka, as fragrant and moreish as Turkish delight. Multilingual Milena also conducts al fresco tastings accompanied by local cheese and ham (€35-€40, bookings essential) in her family vineyards during summer.

Back near Mostar, Carski vineyard, so called because it supplied wines to Vienna’s Habsburg ‘csars’, and its adjoining Emporia Hotel is the ultimate wine address. It has a top chef and a slick tasting experience for a fraction of the price of France or Italy. Carski produces about 125,000 bottles of wine per year, which is large by local standards – Herzegovina’s entire production could be trumped by a single big Italian winery. And what wines they are, made by Josip Martinović, one of the region’s top oenologists, who also manages Herzegovina’s biggest online wine store, Hedonism, which stocks 2,000 lines of wine. Carski’s full-blooded Blatina, costing €7 at the vineyard, is like being fed wild strawberries by Habsburg Empress Sisi, who features on the label. It’s a taste of things to come.

Your Herzegovina address book

Accommodation

The Emporia Hotel at Carski vineyard

Hotel Emporia, near Mostar
Herzegovina’s ultimate wine address has a pool, funky rooms, gourmet restaurant and rows of Tuscan-style cypress trees.

Hotel Verso, Mostar
A hip new bargain, 10 minutes’ walk from the Ottoman bridge, with 10 contemporary rooms and a restaurant area that doubles as Mostar’s ladies-who-lunch address. A glass of wine costs €2.50; double rooms including breakfast from €69.

Kriva Cuprija, Mostar
A heritage hotel overlooking Mostar’s old town and Ottoman bridge. Local wines are served on the panoramic terrace. Double rooms including breakfast from €97.

Food & drink

Restaurant Šadrvan

Andrija winery, Čitluk
There is no menu at the new restaurant of Herzegovina’s most welcoming winery. Text or call in advance for a belly-busting platter of pork goulash and slow-cooked lamb. Pair with Travarica firewater, made using 28 herbs and distilled by owner-host Miro, then sleep it off in a wine-themed guest room upstairs.

Restaurant Šadrvan, Mostar
@restoran.sadrvan
A highly commended vintage charmer overlooking Mostar’s famous bridge. Šadrvan’s cuisine is a Balkan delight of ćevapi minced lamb fingers with hot pepper sauce, paired with the best baklava desserts this side of Istanbul. Follow with Bosnian coffee.

Romanca, near Mostar
A 10-minute drive south of Mostar, Romanca sits in its own vast vineyard. It offers cellar tours and tastings, and you can enjoy stuffed lamb and wine-steeped beef in the adjoining restaurant.

Things to do

Blagaj monastery, built by the whirling dervishes 500 years ago. Credit: Elena Duvernay / Getty Images

Blagaj monastery, near Mostar
A 25-minute taxi ride from Mostar, this astonishingly picturesque monastery was built by Sufi Islamic ‘whirling dervishes’ five centuries ago. The mystical location – where the Buna river oozes out from an eerie cave – adds to the peaceful allure.

Kayaking on Neretva river, Jablanica
A 40-minute drive from Mostar, outdoor-adventure specialists Visit Jablanica operate kayak glamping trips, hiking tours and, for €20, regular canoe rental on the translucent blue Neretva river.

Via Vino, Mostar
This wine store, tasting room and regional travel agency on Mostar’s bustling Feljića boulevard offers a €75 Herzegovina Wine Route tour that stops at three rural wineries, including Brkić.

How to get there

Credit: Maggie Nelson

Mostar is about two hours’ drive from three airports: Sarajevo, Dubrovnik and Split, the latter two in neighbouring Croatia. From Sarajevo, Bosnia’s capital city, a telegenic train (also two hours) runs alongside the Neretva river directly to Mostar.

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Los Angeles has long been a drinking town, from the heady first days of Hollywood’s fledgling movie industry to the mid-century Rat Pack era of Manhattans and Martinis. Cocktails rather than wine have ruled the scene, despite Los Angeles‘ status as the southern anchor city of America’s largest wine-producing state.

When wine bars started appearing in the early aughts, beverage directors focused on the higher end of the market; recommendations for fun, democratic places to sip and learn or simply relax were, admittedly, according to those in the industry, too few and far between.

Today, the Los Angeles wine landscape has been flipped on its head, with dozens of new spots opening in the last few years tailored to their most important clients: their neighbours. The city must be tackled in sections, thanks to its notorious sprawl and commensurate traffic. Community has become the key driver in successful business models, especially in the era of high rent, inflation and heavy competition.

You cannot conquer LA in a day. Nor should you try.

Here’s a guide to the city’s latest wine spots, spanning a plethora of neighbourhoods.

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Melanie Wine Bar

This dark and moody date spot in Beverly Grove attracts residents from nearby Beverly Hills, West Hollywood and The Grove. An excellent wine list by Stephen Sherry encompasses small producers, overlooked regions and offbeat grapes like Romorantin and Hungarian Hárslevelű, as well as hard-to-find Grenache by Santa Barbara’s A Tribute to Grace. Glasses range from $15-25, with bottles in the $70-120 range. A full-service dinner menu to encourage drinkers to linger enhances the offer, while a wine club and bi-monthly Saturday night tasting class fosters friendship between denizens.

Wife and the Somm

In 2021, Christopher Lucchese and Christy Lindgren Lucchese opened a retail wine shop in the up-and-coming neighbourhood of Glassell Park, just northeast of downtown LA. A response to demand from their neighbours wishing for better dining options replete with good wine. The duo expanded the concept into a wine bar and restaurant. Chris works as the wine director, selecting small producers, family wineries and low-intervention wines for a diverse customer base that spreads awareness through word-of-mouth.

The wine list, which ranges from $10 glasses of easygoing fizz to $40 Coravin pours, plus rare vintages by the bottle, changes frequently with the menu and season. At any point in the day, you’ll find Angelenos with their dogs hanging out on the front patio, others relaxing beneath the vines on the sun-dappled back deck, or in-the-know sommeliers sidled up to the zinc-wrapped circular bar inside.

Glassell Park’s Wife and the Somm, northeast of downtown Los Angeles. Credit: Wife and the Somm

Tabula Rasa Bar & Shop

This popular spot in East Hollywood’s Thai Town opened in 2016 and is owned by Zach Negin and Nicole Dougherty. Though billed as a neighbourhood bar, there is a strong lean towards the natural wine world, and the venue hosts RAW Wine festival afterparties and winemaker events which attract the LA beverage industry crowd.

For an expensive city, daily happy hour offers a superb deal with $9 wines by the glass, helping novices and budget drinkers feel at home amidst a cellar deep with old Burgundy and grower Champagne. One local critic declared the vibe ‘chicly battered’, though you can spin your own interpretation of the bohemian space spanning two outdoor patios and a dark, sultry interior come night. The pair also own a sister retail shop in North Hollywood.

Tabula Rasa. Credit: Tabula Rasa

Buvons Natural Wine Bar + Shop

Founded in December 2021 by Alicia Kemper, Buvons focuses on small-production, natural and low-intervention wines served in an elegant yet low-key spot in the Zefaria neighbourhood of Long Beach. Kemper pours mainly French producers from the regions of Champagne, Jura, Burgundy, Loire and Savoie with a small selection of ciders and beers. Buvons attracts a mix of locals as well as wine drinkers willing to trek across town and traffic in search of her rare and allocated bottles. An outdoor garden and patio shared with sister project Mangette lets hungry patrons pair French café fare with crisp mountain whites made from Altesse and Jacquère.

Stanley’s Wet Goods

Since opening in 2017, Stanley’s Wet Goods, a wine bar and bottle shop in Culver City, has become synonymous with the European natural wine scene. John Stanley and Michelle McDermott serve as wine directors, sourcing for the enormous 600 bottle list which patrons can enjoy on-premise for a $25 corkage fee. The modern, airy space transitions from a mellow remote work vibe during the day into a lively spot filled with young professionals at night. Whether seated at the bar, at a communal table or on an outdoor patio, don’t miss Mediterranean-inspired dishes like Turkish eggs or mortadella and provolone served on tender, salty focaccia. If you take your cues from the popular vote, order the beef and ricotta meatballs or a cheese and charcuterie board.

Offhand Wine Bar

Opened in 2022, Offhand Wine Bar stands as the Santa Monica bricks-and-mortar offspring of the music and wine collective Westside Winos. The latter, founded in 2019, began as a group effort between Khalil Kinsey, Justin Leathers and Teron Stevenson to host pop-up wine tastings that quickly grew into collaborations with winemakers and restaurants, bars and hotels. The team’s lighthearted approach to wine education, rooted in inclusion and accessibility, led to opening a laidback bar where they could put their ethos to the test in a permanent space. Pops of orange and photos of vintage cars punctuate the simple, bright space, providing an aesthetic complement to a wine list that draws mainly from West Coast minimalist producers. Music and a sense of community keep the neighbours coming back.

From left: Khalil Kinsey, Teron Stevenson and Justin Leathers of Offhand Wine Bar. Credit: Offhand Wine Bar

Lasita

Part Filipino restaurant, part natural wine bar and 100% fun, Lasita operates in an unexpected location for a buzzy destination spot: a two-storey 1970s Chinatown strip mall called Far East Plaza. Founded in 2021 by wine director Chase Valencia, executive chef Nico de Leon and CFO Steff Valencia, the venue has welcomed guests from destinations as far-flung as Mexico City, France and Spain, thanks to its eclectic wine list, loud music and the juicy, aromatic chicken inasal and luscious lechon that recently earned Lasita a national media nod. Lasita has a very diverse staff and customer base introducing new audiences to wine.

Given the bold flavours, acidity and spices laced through the cuisine, wines tend towards the playful with light, bright and mineral-driven profiles from the likes of Languedoc-Roussillon, Catalunya and Rias Baixas. Dishes are served family style in the dimly lit room, the setting inspired by convivial European gatherings and the rich hues of sunsets over Manila.

Vintage Wine + Eats

From Riesling and Hip Hop to Tarot and Tempranillo nights, Vintage Wine and Eats founders Rebecca Rose Phillips, Joe Barker and Peter Brill remain steadfast in their commitment to making wine fun and approachable. Located in Studio City, the bar entertains everyone from wine nerds who geek out over soil types to neophytes eager to learn. Though not dogmatic about their selections – you won’t find bottles from mass producers – Rebecca Rose Phillips, who serves as the wine director, shoots for thoughtful, intentional wines, many from the nearby bounty of Santa Barbara County producers. Inside, the décor echoes America’s farmhouse chic obsession, with flowers, plants and mint green accents giving it an elegant, cosy touch.

Vintage Wine + Eats. Credit: Vintage Wine + Eats

Stir Crazy

Opening in May 2023 in the Melrose Arts District, Stir Crazy defies strict definition as either a wine bar or restaurant. Modelling it after the late 19th and early 20th-century European all-day cafes, founders Mackenzie Hoffman, Harley Wertheimer and Macklin Casnoff sought to establish an intimate space of eight tables that encourages lingering through soft lighting, warm woods and materials meant to patina rather than fatigue.

Sundays are for menu inspiration when the team buys produce at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market to complement shareable dishes like crudo, marinated anchovies, cheese, charcuterie and delicious, fresh bread. An expansive wine list of classical and modern selections from small growers and producers runs from $45-$600 a bottle and $13-$18 by the glass. An ethos of sustainable management extends to its staff: Stir Crazy opens only for dinner service Monday through Friday, taking the weekends off. In essence, it’s an evening café for quaffs and nibbles with friends.

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Located on the highest point overlooking the village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999, this charming, peaceful and welcoming estate offers luxurious accommodation, an 18th-century exclusive-use château, Michelin star Les Belles Perdrix restaurant, and a state-of-the-art, family-friendly winery that creates an exceptional hospitality experience for wine enthusiasts and discerning travellers alike.

The estate’s roots trace back to 1745 when the property belonged to the Abbé de Sèze, who built the grand house still standing today. In 1850, Raymond Troplong created its flourishing vineyards with 37 hectares under vine, 27 of which are used to produce the estate’s grand vin and the rest for its second wine Mondot.

Troplong then changed hands twice, with much of its success and renown owed to Christine Valette-Pariente, who ran it alongside her husband Xavier Pariente for just over 30 years. In recognition of its rising critical acclaim, it was promoted in 2006 to the prestigious rank of Premier Grand Cru Classé in the St Emilion classification.

The estate was then acquired in 2017 by French insurance company SCOR for a reported €178m.

Significant investments have been made over the years starting with the onboarding of talented winemaker Aymeric de Gironde from St-Estèphe second growth Cos d’Estournel as well as bringing in a new winemaking consultant and increasing land holdings. Outwardly, ambitious renovation projects also started with Aymeric overseeing the modernisation of the winemaking facilities with a state-of-the-art vat room and stunning barrel room or ‘cathedral cellar’ with its 12-metre ceiling accentuated by beams of vertical lights and four concrete columns which suspend the glass walkway connecting either side.

Credit: Romain Ricard

Luxury accommodation

The château building has been restored to the highest standards possible with two lavish dining rooms, an incredible professional kitchen, five bedroom suites and a fully-stocked high-end wine cellar. A breathtaking Mediterranean-inspired pool offers unobstructed, panoramic views over the vineyards towards St-Emilion and its 12th century monolithic bell tower. Priced at €12,000 a night it’s not cheap, but it epitomises five-star hotel service (including a butler) while making it feel like you’re living in your own private residence.

Additional accommodation The Keys offers two one-bedroom and two, two-bedroom suites that are refined yet retain a rustic, countryside charm with three of the four in an annex adjacent to the main building. Each has its own patio for alfresco breakfasts or aperitifs as well as beautiful bathrooms and views of the 2ha park surrounding the château and the village beyond.

For extra privacy, opt for the quaint, two-bedroom, two-bathroom Vineyard House, perfect as a cosy bolthole in the winter with its open fire. In summer, look out over eye-level vines benefitting from the stunning sunset over the horizon.

Guests can either walk into the village of St-Emilion, or use electric bikes to cycle the short trip.

Tours, tasting and Michelin dining

Credit: Bernhard Winkelmann

Day visitors are also spoilt for choice. Immersive and family-friendly guided tours and tastings offer insights into the estate’s winemaking philosophy from grape to glass and provide a glimpse into the meticulous craftsmanship that goes into each bottle of Troplong Mondot. Guests can traverse the vines in an old Land Rover – passing horses who work the land instead of tractors – with wellies on hand in rainy weather. Kids are just as looked after too with their own wellies, miniature electric Land Rovers and activity books to keep them occupied while parents taste a range of the estate’s wines upstairs in the tasting room and on the deck overlooking the vineyards.

There is also an on-site shop selling wine, and estate-made produce including amazing honeys and chocolate sauces, as well as an area dedicated to the engraving of personalised bottles and wooden cases for gifts or keepsakes.

To satisfy culinary cravings, Château Troplong Mondot boasts an exceptional fine-dining experience at its one-Michelin-star restaurant, Les Belles Perdrix. Helmed by acclaimed head chef David Charrier and unbelievable pastry chef Adrien Salavert, the restaurant showcases the finest seasonal ingredients with meticulous attention to detail in a minimalist contemporary space. Diners are seated at tables with immersive views of the vines through floor-to-ceiling windows and of the rolling landscape from the outdoor terrace.

Credit: Château Troplong Mondot

The encouragement and preservation of biodiversity is at the forefront of activities across the estate – not least in providing the restaurant with produce from the vegetable gardens, poultry and pig enclosures – but also to help the vineyards thrive. De Gironde and his team have ambitiously committed to carbon neutrality by 2050 with all electricity used generated sustainably by creating and burning pellets from removed vine shoots.

Whether you’re a seasoned wine enthusiast or simply seeking an idyllic retreat in the heart of Bordeaux‘s wine country, Château Troplong Mondot promises an unforgettable experience, where heritage, hospitality – and some of Bordeaux’s finest wines – come together in perfect harmony.

Château Troplong Mondot is located approximately 45 minutes by car from the city of Bordeaux. For further information, see the Château Troplong Mondot website.

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Twenty years on, ‘the Sideways effect’ continues in the Santa Ynez Valley. The film, directed by Alexander Payne, follows the misadventures of two middle-aged friends on a bachelor weekend road trip through Santa Barbara’s Sta Rita Hills, visiting some of the area’s most celebrated vineyards and restaurant staples.

The protagonist, Miles, played by Paul Giamatti, is a struggling writer and amateur wine enthusiast. An ardent supporter of the cool climate Pinot Noir produced in the Sta Rita Hills, he takes his best friend, washed-up actor Jack Cole, to experience the region’s wines just before Jack’s wedding.

Along the way, Miles notoriously professes an ironic hatred for Merlot while putting Santa Barbara Pinot Noir on a pedestal, only to later drink the wine he’s been saving for the right moment, a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc from a paper cup. The special wine is, of course, a Merlot blend.

Miles’s declaration seems to have famously influenced wine market trends for drinkers everywhere. A closer look at the film reveals a few subtly embedded wines that are worth seeking out on a Santa Ynez Valley tasting tour.

Santa Barbara locals agree that despite their often cringeworthy behaviour, the humorous duo gives a genuine look into a wine region still not overexposed by corporate marketing teams or Instagram influencers while yet honouring its innate authenticity.

Like Santa Barbara’s local Pinot Noir, the Sideways film aged beautifully, and its wine trail remains a wonderful choice for a weekend visit.

At the Hitching Post II, Frank Ostini serves Santa Maria-style BBQ steaks. Credit: Jeremy Ball

Foxen Canyon Road, a narrow country road, runs through the heart of Santa Barbara County wine country. Credit: George Rose / Getty Images News

Santa Barbara County winemaker and icon Kathy Joseph with actress Virginia Madsen during the filming of Sideways. Credit: Fiddlehead Cellars

The vines at Sanford Winery. Credit: Terlato Wine Group

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Abruzzo’s landscape is astonishing: a backdrop of statuesque mountains soaring to nearly 3,000m above sea level and capped with snow for six months of the year, with river valleys running down to the Adriatic coast through a band of hills where cool breezes and dramatic night-day temperature swings provide perfect conditions for fragrant, expressive wines.

The Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety dominates the region’s production with generous, fruity and elegant, or powerful and complex purple-toned wines. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, the intense deep cherry-coloured rosé made with the same grape, is the locals’ go-to wine for its incredible versatility and charm – perfect with dishes such as brodetto (fish stew), arrosticini (the lamb skewers that have achieved cult status), charcuterie and Pecorino cheese.

Abruzzo’s white wine scene is focusing ever more on bold, herby Pecorino (the grape, not the cheese!) alongside Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Passerina and the less common Cococciola and Montonico. The passion and drive for quality of the region’s winemakers is palpable, aided by a dynamic consorzio.

Northern Abruzzo, home to the Colline Teramane DOCG, resembles a drawing, with neat rows of hills backed by the Gran Sasso d’Italia massif. This idyllic scenery is vivid at Emidio Pepe, one of Abruzzo’s legendary wineries, which also offers accommodation for the season after mid-April. A pioneer of extreme ageing, Pepe began in 1964 with less than a hectare under vine (now some 17ha). Intervention is minimal: handpicked grapes are pressed by foot-treading (join in if you’re there at harvest time); and ageing can last for 20 years or more.

The tasting experience at Cantina Mazzarosa

Nearby, on the coast at Roseto degli Abruzzi, lies the Mazzarosa winery, built by 19th-century senator Giuseppe Devincenzi, who introduced new agricultural methods and grape varieties to the region. The estate has preserved its own clones for its Pecorino white, and its red Vere Novo is the result of an experiment during Covid lockdown, made with partial whole-bunch fermentation giving an intense, velvety Montepulciano (the inaugural 2020 vintage won Platinum in the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards).

In the same area, winemaker Antonio Lamona at Vini La Quercia is one of only a few growing the Montonico grape, which thrives in mountain conditions and is celebrated with a festival in Bisenti that takes place over the first weekend in October. Lamona makes an apple-fresh still version.

In his consultant role, Lamona helped set up another Colline Teramane winery, Abbazia di Propezzano, which, like most Abruzzo wineries, also produces olive oil from centuries-old trees. Each local area has its traditional varieties and there is an olive oil museum at the charming hill town Loreto Aprutino. Also welcoming visitors is nearby Ciavolich, a long-established family-run winery with farmhouse accommodation and whirlpool hot-tubs in a secret garden.

Another attractive winery that offers accommodation, as well as a range of summertime events in the vineyards, is Tenuta Tre Gemme. In an especially scenic position surrounded by vines, offering open views panning between the ever-present mountains and the sea, it’s run by two sisters who made a major career change to concentrate on the family estate, making highly enjoyable wines, including a fresh, agile Cerasuolo.

New heights

Pasetti, southeast of Ofena

In Abruzzo’s southern province of Chieti, where the majority of the region’s wine is made, Tenuta I Fauri (offers accommodation), run by Luigi di Camillo and his sister Valentina, are upholding traditions while experimenting with styles; their excellent wines include a characterful pét-nat Pecorino. The Pecorino grape had virtually disappeared a few decades ago and its resurgence in the mid-1990s is largely thanks to Cataldi Madonna, where it was first bottled in 1996 from vines at 320m-440m in Ofena, Aquila province; the microclimate’s extreme temperature swings make for exceptionally fragrant and complex wines.

Southeast of Ofena, Domenico ‘Mimmo’ Pasetti took over his family winery in 1999 (offering accommodation) and is now growing Pecorino up to a remarkable 1,000m elevation and more near Pescosansonesco. Never tiring of experimenting, Pasetti had the foresight to move away from the coast and replant vineyards at higher altitudes.

Masciarelli (offers accommodation) also has vines at Ofena, as well as other plots around the region. Founded by the late Gianni Masciarelli in 1981, its most celebrated wine is its minty, chocolatey Villa Gemma Montepulciano Riserva. Gianni’s widow Marina Cvetic now runs the winery and the stunning Castello di Semivicoli.

Near the sea

A cooking class at Fontefico

Back on the coast, the stretch of southern Abruzzo between Ortona and the attractive town of Vasto is called Costa dei Trabocchi, after the numerous picturesque wooden fishing platforms that stretch over the sea, many of which now host seasonal restaurants. Located less than 5km inland from the nearby Punta Aderci nature reserve, Fontefico, run by brothers Emanuele and Nicola Altieri, offers cookery classes and meals paired with their wines, which include a lemony Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.

Just inland from Ortona, Abruzzo’s second, tiny DOCG area surrounds the village of Tollo. Benefiting from cool mountain breezes, the Tullum DOCG (alternatively known as Terre Tollesi) produces particularly expressive Pecorino, Passerina and Montepulciano. Here, in the grounds of the Feudo Antico (offers accommodation), archaeological excavations are underway to unearth a Roman villa with ancient winemaking equipment discovered during the replanting of a long-abandoned vineyard. Alongside the Tullum DOCG range, the winery makes an exquisite Pecorino in partnership with chef Niko Romito from vines at his restaurant, the Michelin three-star Casadonna Reale, above 800m in Castel di Sangro.

Your Abruzzo address book

Accommodation

Baldovino

Simple, stylish rooms with hill views create a wonderful sense of calm at this spacious B&B on the family-run Tenuta I Fauri wine estate near Villamagna.

Castello di Semivicoli

Authentic historic atmosphere at the Masciarelli winery’s beautifully restored castle, surrounded by vines.

L’Orso e l’Ape

Homely and relaxing B&B at the heart of the tiny Podere Colle San Massimo organic wine estate near Giulianova.

Restaurants

D.One

Intimate Michelin one-star dining rooms, bedrooms and a tasting cellar in stylishly restructured locations around the hilltop village of Montepagano.

Da Bacone

Run by a family involved in fishing, this is the go-to place on Pescara’s seafront for excellent seafood and an extensive choice of wines.

Ristorante Zenobi

This Slow Food-approved, family-run countryside restaurant in northern Abruzzo offers a menu that’s a roll-call of traditional specialities.

Things to do

Enoteca Regionale d’Abruzzo

Abruzzo’s regional wine cellar is the place to visit for a personalised tasting, to buy a bottle, or simply to enjoy a glass with a platter of local produce. See Facebook

Harvest time – lend a hand/foot

Several wineries offer hands-on grape harvest experiences with lunch among the vines. Fontefico organises harvest activities for children; at Emidio Pepe you can help tread the grapes.

Slow travel

Paths for cyclists and walkers run alongside much of Abruzzo’s coastline, including the 42km Via Verde along the scenic Costa dei Trabocchi. Among the inland routes, the Ciclovia Acquaviva passes the Abbazia di Propezzano and La Quercia wineries.

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Tapas, pinchos or pintxos (as it is written in Rioja Alavesa and the rest of the Basque Country) come in various forms and sizes. But regardless of the wording, everyone agrees that they are small appetisers served alongside a drink.

Understanding this is important. Locals usually have pinchos between 12.30pm and 2.30pm, before going home for lunch, or between 8pm and 9.30pm, just before dinner. Go for pinchos at 7pm and you might be faced with an empty counter instead of the colourful array of snacks you expected.

Size does matter, so be suspicious of bars with lots of oversize pinchos – quantity usually means lower quality. Also bear in mind that a bar with quality pinchos doesn’t necessarily serve wines of equal quality. While many bodegas offer tastings with some appetisers, finding wine bars outside Logroño to sample Rioja’s diverse, terroir-driven, quality wines remains a challenge.

If you’re hungry, order raciones: cooked-to-order platters that may range from charcuterie to fried calamari. When a full ración is too large, try a media ración, which is half the quantity. Or, for something a bit more substantial, a menú del día makes a great lunch option on weekdays. Costing less than €25, it usually includes three courses and wine.

In this article, we begin in Logroño before heading west.

Roots

Marqués de Vallejo 14, Logroño

Just before the pandemic, sommelier Oleg Buyalo moved from London to Logroño to open Roots, an independent wine bar that quickly gained a reputation for its ever-changing selection of bottles and wines by the glass. With his menu full of small producers from Rioja but also featuring niche wines from elsewhere, Buyalo is always happy to advise his customers, many of whom work in the wine trade and flock here to share a bottle of wine in the evening.

Since the move to a larger venue with an outdoor terrace, Roots serves breakfast with locally roasted coffee and sourdough bread made in-house. At other times, you can drink your wine with gildas (anchovies, guindilla peppers and green olives on wooden skewers) and small platters of salmon gravlax, patatas bravas or beef cheeks in red wine sauce.

Open Wed to Sun, 9am-12am.

Roots owner Oleg Buyalo (centre)

Tastavin

San Juan 25, Logroño

Two things will draw your attention at this bar: the dozens of tapas lined up along the counter and the enormous chalkboard listing more than 100 wines. Available by the glass (via Coravin) or bottle, 90% of the selection is from Rioja and features a combination of classic names and lesser-known producers.

Unsurprisingly, Tastavin is a firm favourite among wine lovers and foodies, who huddle in the bar or sit at the handful of tables at the back to enjoy its crispy bread toasts with an endless variety of toppings. Other tapas and raciones are made to order, for example squid in tempura with kimchi mayonnaise, or steak tartare. It gets crowded in the evenings so booking a table is recommended.

Open Tue to Thu, 8pm-12am and Fri-Sun, 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-12am.

Tastavin

Umm No Sólo Tapas

Marqués de Vallejo 10, Logroño

A couple of doors down from Roots is this venue serving a huge variety of neatly laid out tapas in glass cabinets, resembling a jeweller’s shop. There are classics such as vermouth-marinated olives, as well as fusion bites like pulled-pork brioche with pickled onion. But if you want to try a local speciality with a contemporary twist, order a ración of pig’s ear in garlic, coriander and tomato sauce and you’re guaranteed to say ‘umm’ (‘yum’ in Spanish).

You can sit at tables inside or on the outdoor terrace, which is popular on weekend evenings. The by-the-glass wine list features a dozen reds from Rioja and a few whites and rosés, along with a couple of local vermouths.

Open Tue to Sun, 12pm-4pm and 7.30pm-12am.

Umm No Sólo Tapas

Sugar

Páganos 35, Laguardia

Specialising in grilled meat, Sugar (written ‘Svgar’) is no longer a pincho bar but offers a varied selection of raciones and a well-stocked wine cellar packed with classic labels and the latest releases from young producers from Rioja and beyond.

If you book a table at lunchtime, choose from one of three set menus with several options for starters, mains and desserts. Costing between €30 and €45, they are great value, considering that the price includes a bottle of young Rioja wine. In the evening, you can dine à la carte from a good selection of cold and hot dishes. Run with a friendly smile and fast service by Aitor Nadador and Adriana Neagu, Sugar is a favourite among local producers.

Open Wed to Sun, 1.30pm-4pm and 8.30pm-10.30pm.

Aitor Nadador and Adriana Neagu, Sugar

La Cofradía del Renegado

Travesía Primera San Roque 1, San Vicente de la Sonsierra
@la_cofradia_del_renegado

Opened last summer in a charmingly renovated stone house, this new bar and restaurant has been a welcome addition to the gastronomic offering in the hilltop village of San Vicente de la Sonsierra.

Sitting on the outdoor terrace with a cup of coffee and an omelette pincho on a mild morning is a great way to start the day, but it’s worth keeping La Cofradía in mind for a menú del día, and for raciones or an à la carte meal in the evening. The friendly staff, supervised by owner Eduardo del Río, will help you choose dishes and a bottle of wine from the 100 available. A by-the-glass list features young wines made by respected producers from the village such as Cupani and López de Haro.

Open Tue to Sun, 9am-12.30am.

La Cofradía del Renegado

Jatorrena

La Florida 10, Labastida

It’s not strictly a pincho bar, but if you want to eat your lunch among wine-growers and other locals, this is the place to go in Labastida. Dating back to 1969, Jatorrena has a basic and functional decor, but the food makes up for its lack of glamour.

Grilled lamb chops and potatoes with chorizo stew are the trademark dishes here, but you can also order simple salads or raciones such as grilled squid or tuna belly salad with piquillo peppers.

As in many straightforward country bars in Rioja, the wines by the glass are young, easy-drinking styles from local producers, but there are a few interesting options if you order a bottle, including a selection from Abel Mendoza, Remelluri and Tierra.

Open daily, 8am-11.30pm (closed in January and February).

Barrio de la Estación

Haro

The largest concentration of century-old bodegas in the world is the perfect spot for a fun-filled morning visiting multiple wine bars in Haro. Daily tastings – to sample wine at your leisure with tapas – are held in the wine bars and stores of Bodegas Bilbaínas, CVNE, Gómez Cruzado, Muga, La Rioja Alta and Roda (but not R López de Heredia, which is not open to the public).

Some stock current and older vintages of their wines, usually served with Coravin, and others offer the opportunity to have a meal on the premises, always by appointment. On Thursdays and Fridays, the bodegas host three-and-a-half hour tours visiting three wineries, with three premium wines and tapas pairings included.

Opening times vary, see website for details.

Los Caños

Plaza de San Martín 5, Haro

With its narrow streets and dozens of bars and restaurants, La Herradura in Haro is probably among the liveliest districts in Rioja, second only to Calle Laurel in Logroño. One of the oldest establishments here is Los Caños, a more casual venue than Nublo, its one-star Michelin sister restaurant next door.

At Los Caños, expect a short but sensational list of pinchos and raciones to enjoy at the tiny bar or outside on the bustling terrace.

Don’t miss the potato salad or the torreznos, a crunchy pork belly snack cut into strips that will delight carnivores. For a sit-down meal, book one of the indoor tables and choose from a longer list of options. The wine list features some local cuvées as well as vermouths.

Open Tue, 8pm-11.30pm; Wed to Sat, 1.30pm-4.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm; and Sun, 1.30pm-4.30pm.

Los Caños

Los Paraguas

Siervas de Jesus 1, Haro

+34 941 31 14 53

Just outside La Herradura in Haro, this small bar stands out for the numerous wine bottles on display. Most of them are from Rioja and a few are available by the glass with Coravin. If you are in a group or want to enjoy a light dinner with pinchos and raciones, you can order a bottle to drink at one of the high tables indoors or on the wine-barrel tables on the terrace.

Prices are very reasonable: you can buy a Viña Bosconia Reserva 2017 for €27 or La Rioja Alta 904 Gran Reserva 2011 for €58, plus a €3 corkage fee. But beware that the glasses are nothing fancy and the staff aren’t always very friendly, especially when the bar gets crowded at weekends.

Open daily (except Wed), 11.30am-11.30pm.

Los Paraguas

Tasca Los Nidos

Barrio Verde 1, Alfaro

+34 941 18 03 39

A typical village bar, with the sound of the TV in the background and

groups of locals gathered at the counter to have their daily glass of wine and therapeutic chat, Los Nidos is not about looks but genuine substance.

Popular on weekend evenings, it serves delicious traditional tapas such as Spanish omelette, anchovies, stuffed red peppers or tuna pasties. The list of wines by the glass is short, inexpensive and local, with reds including La Montesa by Alvaro Palacios or the juicy Puppi Barbarot by Bárbara Palacios, and rosés from the likes of Ilurce.

Los Nidos is named after the dozens of nests on the towers of the church of San Miguel in Alfaro, home to the largest white stork colony in a single building in Europe.

Open daily, 11am-11.30pm.

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A landlocked country framed in the Caucasus Mountains, Armenia has long been trapped within a tough neighbourhood.

Bordering Turkey to the west, Iran to the south, and Azerbaijan to the south and east, with Russia looming in the distance, this international cul-de-sac in the Caucasus was plagued by political, cultural and religious troubles for generations.

Despite the odds, Armenians have proven resilient, with a fierce dedication to protecting their unique culture and wine heritage, proudly shared with visitors willing to make the trek.

The past is the present

Armenia is a land of superlatives: it was the world’s first Christian nation in 301 A.D. (Georgia followed circa 326 A.D.), maintains one of the oldest languages with a continuous written tradition, and claims the oldest winery so far discovered – at 6,100 years of age. Winemaking runs deep in Armenia, predating the Silk Road.

Though Georgia may have legitimate claims to the tagline ‘cradle of wine’, which it trademarked (in the EU) in 2012, both countries share similarities not just in their vinous legacy but in their dizzying array of indigenous grapes and use of clay amphora (called karas in Armenia and qvevri in Georgia). Yet each followed a different path, not necessarily by choice, to arrive at its modern wine story, resulting in disparate wines and tourism experiences.

The invasion of the Soviet Red Army in 1920 would be the greatest defining factor of Armenia’s 20th-century wine industry. The country was merged with Georgia into the Transcaucasian Socialist Federative Soviet Republic in 1922. In 1936, it became the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic or Soviet Armenia.

The Soviets abolished private enterprise and nationalised industries by forcing republics into economic roles. Georgia specialised in wine production, while Armenia’s grapes were earmarked for brandy distillation. Vineyards sprung up in poor locations to increase volume, while others faced neglect or abandonment.

Since gaining independence in 1991, Armenia’s wine industry has witnessed a renaissance, partly driven by the return of the Armenian diaspora. Winemakers driven by quality have catapulted Armenia into the global wine scene, earning the country its own tagline: the youngest oldest wine industry in the world.

In the last two decades, Armenia has lured renowned ‘flying winemakers’ to its traditions and potential, with luminaries such as Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini contributing their expertise. From the vineyards of Karas in Armavir to Yacoubian and Zorah in Vayots Dzor, these collaborations signify the sincerity of Armenia’s aspirations.

For a small country, Armenia boasts diverse topography and terroir. The country has catalogued more than 400 indigenous grape varieties. However, its bona fides as a historical winemaking country are interwoven with its tradition of karas amphorae. These large clay vessels, almost lost to the annals of time in the 20th century, have staged a comeback since the mid-2000s.

Traditionally, winemakers bury two-thirds of these amphorae underground, providing natural temperature control, a method employed over 3,000 years ago in the Kingdom of Urartu.

Today, as more wineries experiment with the karas method, Armenia carves a niche as a guardian of its traditions while pushing the boundaries of contemporary wine styles.

Armenian wine regions

Armenia has six historical wine-growing regions, including Artsakh. Today, the country has five: Vayots Dzor, Aragatsotn, Armavir, Ararat, and Tavush. Of those five, the first three offer the best opportunities for fine wine, sightseeing, and hospitality.

NOA Wine in Vayots Dzor. Credit: Lauren Mowery

Vayots Dzor

Vayots Dzor, located along a south-central swath of narrow plateau, elevated Armenia’s international reputation for quality wine. Winemaker Vahe Keushguerian dubbed it the Mendoza of Armenia.

The key grapes grown here are Areni for red and sparkling and Voskehat for white. Many compare Areni to a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir or a slimmed-down Grenache for its red fruit aromas, lively acidity and silky tannins. Agile Voskehat, known for floral, citrus, orchard fruit notes, produces clean and bright styles and savoury textural wines, especially when aged in karas.

Many wineries in Armenia buy grapes from Vayots Dzor because grapes thrive in the region’s volcanic soils and cooler climate. Viticulture in the region remained unbroken during the Soviet era, as it was deemed too far away and too cold to bother sourcing grapes for brandy. These same features have protected vines from phylloxera. Vineyards are planted on their own roots at high elevations, some vineyards nearing 1,800 metres above sea level.

Visually, Vayots Dzor features a striking topography of mountains and valleys. The wines mirror that grandeur in quality, complexity and age-worthiness. Though only a few wineries have visitor facilities, it’s worth making a day trip or spending the night for a few experiences.

NOA Wine in Aghavnadzor offers a rustic tasting experience better suited to the countryside than a contemporary winery. A vine-covered pergola shades a stone patio with views of the mountains framing leafy vineyards. NOA produces wine from 100% estate-grown, organic fruit which visitors can taste by appointment. Staff welcome guests with Armenia’s trademark hospitality: a picnic table covered in tangy local cheeses, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes from Ararat Valley, aromatic herbs such as purple basil, and lavash, a traditional flatbread used for rolling ‘sandwiches’.

Near NOA sit two of the region’s prime attractions: the Areni-1 wine cave complex and the 13th-century Noravank monastery. Regarded as the oldest known winery in the world, Areni-1 was excavated after archaeologists discovered human skulls and a Copper Age leather shoe. Visitors pay a small fee for the tour, while the monastery, perched dramatically on an ochre-hued cliff deep in a valley, is free.

Back in Yerevan, hit the bars of Saryan Street to taste wines from Vayots Dzor. Look for the traditional method sparkling wines from Keush and still dry reds and whites from Zulal, both made by Vahe Keushguerian. Keushguerian, a champion of indigenous grapes, has helped revitalise and modernise the wine industry, while serving as an international ambassador for the country. Other premium boutique brands to seek include Yacoubian-Hobbs and Zorah.

Noravank monastery. Credit: Lauren Mowery

Aragatsotn

Located in the northwest corner of the country, Aragatsotn (meaning ‘foot of Aragats’) has received significant investment in recent years, both in expanding vineyards and constructing modern wineries. Coupled with its proximity to Yerevan, Aragatsotn presents an attractive day trip option. Compared to Vayots Dzor, vineyards sit at significantly lower elevations ranging from 1,100-1,400 metres above sea level. Most of the soil is volcanic, the result of ancient lava flows from Mount Aragats. The main grapes grown in Aragatsotn include Areni, Voskehat plus Rkatsiteli, and the more obscure Kangun, Haghtanak and Karmrahyut. Two wine and hospitality experiences stand out in Aragatsotn: Van Ardi and Voskevaz Winery.

Founded in 2008, Van Ardi enjoys views of Mount Aragats in the distance. Guests can sit on the patio with a lunch of lake trout or lamb paired with Syrah (grown from California cuttings), Areni, Voskehat and Kangun, a local white grape with floral and tropical aromas.

The family behind Voskevaz renovated the oldest functioning winery in Armenia, dating to 1932, into an ersatz medieval village. Tour the old tank rooms, now a museum, filled with Soviet-era relics and antiques. Voskevaz makes excellent wines, specialising in karas-aged old-vine Voskehat and Areni.

Voskevaz Winery in Aragatsotn. Credit: Lauren Mowery

Armavir

In the fertile Ararat plain due west of Yerevan sits Armavir. At 900-1,100 metres, the ruddy, semi-desert landscape speaks to the climate: sunbaked and dry. In peak summer, temperatures can reach 48°C. Meanwhile, plummeting mercury in winter forces wineries to bury vines. It’s a harsh landscape for fine wine, and much of the grape crop funnels to the brandy industry.

Rising from the volcanic soil near the Turkish border sits the modern glass and steel façade of Karas Wines. Founded in 2000, the Argentine-Armenian owners, also winemakers in Patagonia, invited Michel Rolland to help establish the brand. Karas has since grown into an international company.

My perfect weekend in Armenia

Saturday

Morning

Yerevan’s fantastic café culture emphasises style and substance. Start the day as locals do and post up at Afrolab. Whether craving a Kenyan pour-over or an espresso, grab a seat in the sun to enjoy it. Meet your city guide Arpi Yeganyan, owner of Wild Adventures Armenia. With a specialisation in wine, she’ll help navigate the city’s oldest winemaking neighbourhood. Founded in the 13th century, the Norq features a labyrinth of unmarked streets and buildings, making the area difficult to explore independently. You’ll visit the gardens and cellar of a local winemaker, one of many built in the 1880s, then head for a cellar tour, wine tasting and lunch at Norqi Keghar winery. Founded in 1877, it makes white wine from Voskehat using karas and Armenian oak barrels.

Afternoon

After lunch, you’ll visit several attractions, including Victory Park, the statue of Mother Armenia, the Opera theatre and the fascinating manuscript museum, Matenadaran. At dusk, climb the 572 steps (or ride the escalator) of the Cascade Complex, one of the city’s most beautiful and iconic pieces of architecture cut from Travertine stone into an Art Deco masterpiece. Inside, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts holds over 5,000 modern artworks, mainly from the collection of Gerard Cafesjian.

Evening

Discover Armenian cuisine at Sherep Restaurant. Tuck into hearty plates of soups, skewered meats, grilled vegetables, dips, fresh lavash and other typical dishes. Despite a reputation for meat, Armenia is heaven for vegetarians. Start exploring Armenian wine at Decant wine bar. The owner specialises in Armenia’s best boutique bottles and Champagne. Take advantage of the excellent map of Armenia’s key wine regions and grapes in the back.

Getting ready for a hot air balloon ride. Credit: Lauren Mowery

Sunday

Morning

Don’t hit snooze on that 5:15AM alarm. Pack your camera to meet the Skyball transfer for a sunrise hot air balloon ride with Armenian bubbles. Blue skies yield mesmerising views of snow-capped Mount Ararat. Back in the city, refresh with an espresso at speciality coffee shop Lumen, hidden between two nondescript buildings. Eat a light bite or pastry; save some space for the afternoon food tour.

Afternoon

Near the Cascade Complex, meet your guide from 2492 Travel for a whistlestop tour of Armenia’s greatest culinary hits. You’ll try six specialities, including jengyalov hats (wild greens wrapped in flatbread), lahmajo (flatbread topped with minced meat called Armenian pizza), and manti (crispy meat dumplings served in broth.)

Evening

Head back to Saryan Street for drinks at In Vino. With tables inside and out, In Vino evokes a lively house party where strangers become friends. Between Decant and In Vino, you can taste nearly all of Armenia’s best wines.

Your Yerevan address book

Wine bars

Decant

Wine bar and shop for Armenia’s best boutique producers.

In Vino

Saryan Street wine bar and shop with a solid Armenian selection.

Restaurants

Sherep

Extensive, well-executed menu of regional Armenian cuisine near Republic Square.

Vostan restaurant

Impressive platters of skewered and grilled meats in a wooden heritage building.

Abovyan 12 restaurant

Vegetarian-friendly Armenian classics in a leafy courtyard.

Norqi Keghar winery

Norq district wine cellar and restaurant with fresh, delicious food.

Cafés

Afrolab

Popular café for speciality coffee and Western European and Armenian food.

Lumen

Specialty coffee and espresso with two locations.

Ground Zero

Speciality shop popular with the laptop brigade on Saryan Street.

Hotels

Grand Resort Jermuk

Pink hotel in the hinterland of Vayots Dzor, an hour east of Areni-1.

Activities and tours

2492 Travel

Runs the Yerevan Gastrotrip food tour and organises wine and wilderness tours.

Arpi Yeganyan

A certified wine guide who offers city, cultural, wine and adventure tours.

Skyball Armenia

Armenia’s only hot-air balloon company.

Temple of Garni and Geghard monastery

Two UNESCO-World Heritage sites outside Yerevan include this pagan temple and a monastery on a cliff (book tours in Yerevan).

City sights

Matenadaran

A museum filled with ancient texts and scrolls.

Cafesjian Center for the Arts

Yerevan’s best modern art museum tucked inside the Cascade Complex.

Best season to visit

Due to its landlocked continental climate, Armenia experiences cold winters and sunbaked summers. Spring and autumn offer the best weather. May and June explode with wildflowers, while temperatures cool and leaves change in late September through early November.

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The post Armenia: A wine lover's guide appeared first on Decanter.

Rioja is arguably Spain’s most famous wine worldwide, but it’s fair to say that the region is still finding its feet when it comes to attracting international visitors. And it’s not for a lack of attractions: as a travel destination, one of Rioja’s greatest assets is that there is plenty to see and do beyond visiting wineries or drinking wine.

For history lovers, the region boasts a rich past, with pretty medieval villages perched on its hills, and ancient neolithic tombs and stone lagares dotted across the Sierra de Cantabria foothills, which can be easily reached by car.

If you want to focus on outdoor activities, the region offers an ample and well-maintained network of country paths for hiking and biking, with events such as the Orbea Rioja Alavesa Wine Gravel Trail (@orbeagravelriojaalavesa) combining cycling with winery visits and even cooking lessons for participants and their families.

Along with wine, food is one of the main draws of Rioja, with countless tapas bars in Logroño, the region’s largest city, as well as in towns like Laguardia, Labastida, Haro or Alfaro. Fine-dining establishments have also sprung up in recent years, and Rioja now boasts seven Michelin-star restaurants, most of them offering menus at more friendly prices than elsewhere in Europe.

Visitors seeking a bit of luxury in Rioja will be pleased to discover that a number of recent openings cater for generous budgets, with more coming soon. Family-friendly wine tourism has improved, too, with a greater number of accommodation options particularly suited to children, and wineries organising activities involving all the family. Dogs are also now welcome in a growing number of places.

In this article are my recommendations for things to do and places to stay all over the region (please note that these aren’t strict itineraries), according to your needs. Unless indicated, prices are per night for two people, including breakfast.

Visitors make use of the region’s network of cycle paths, passing Queirón’s El Arca vineyard in Rioja Oriental. David Silverman / Getty Images

Credit: Maggie Nelson

Best for foodies

The centre of Logroño is home to many lively bars and restaurants. Credit: Guido Cozzi / Atlantide Phototravel / Getty Images

In northern Spain, San Sebastián deservedly ranks among Europe’s greatest cities for food lovers, but for a less crowded and genuine foodie experience, Logroño certainly deserves a visit.

The largest city in Rioja boasts three restaurants with Michelin stars. Two of them serve a fusion of Latin-American flavours – with Basque (Ikaro) and Riojan (Ajo Negro) roots – while Kiro Sushi is a little piece of Japan in the heart of wine country. A 20-minute drive southwest, in the tiny village of Daroca de Rioja (population 56, according to the 2022 census), Ignacio Echapresto creates stellar dishes at two-star Venta Moncalvillo using vegetables from his garden, which is visible from the dining room. His brother Carlos manages a fabulous cellar featuring 1,800 wines, including some old Rioja vintages.

Some wineries, such as Baigorri in Samaniego, a half-hour drive from Logroño, invite visitors to combine a tasting with a meal at their premises. An architectural landmark in the region, Baigorri’s restaurant has views of the surrounding vineyards and the cellar, and serves local dishes with a contemporary twist.

Rioja is home to about a dozen products with protected geographical indications, including chorizo, cheese, mushrooms and pears, so buying ingredients locally and cooking them is a good option for visitors staying in self-catering accommodation. Stalls at the colourful San Blas market in the centre of Logroño offer a wide variety of fresh produce.

Echaurren

Best for families

The Vivanco museum in Briones. Credit: Blanca Saenz de Castillo / Alamy Stock Photo

A winery tour might not be the most appealing activity for wine lovers with young children, but with a bit of planning, it can be a rewarding experience for the whole family.

During the harvest, wineries such as Valdemar just outside Logroño, or David Moreno in Badarán, open their doors for a hands-on experience of grape- picking and foot-stomping.

In Laguardia, a horse-drawn-carriage ride through the vineyards with wine tasting and snacks at Eguren Ugarte is a fun way to spend a morning during summer visits. There is a good restaurant within the estate, but another option is to dine on the family-friendly outdoor terrace at Villa Lucía before watching an interactive 4D film that takes kids on a whirlwind tour of Rioja.

The Vivanco museum in Briones contains a huge collection of wine- related artefacts as well as interactive exhibits and workshops to keep children entertained.

Some family activities in Rioja are only available during school holidays, but one held all year round is the ‘guess that aroma’ game – for adults and children alike – at Lozano in Laguardia.

Farm visits are always a popular choice with younger children. Rioja Natura in Santo Domingo de la Calzada is a refuge for abandoned animals. During the two-hour tours, children can interact with the animals and feed them with food provided by the guides. The wide outdoor spaces are perfect for a family picnic, but if you fancy a traditional meal with a great wine list in a child-friendly restaurant, La Vieja Bodega is just a 15-minute drive away.

Rioja can be hot in the summer, so the swimming pools and adventure trails of El Barranco Perdido paleo-adventure park in Enciso (southern Rioja) can be a great day out. Just outside the park, the fun continues on the dinosaur trail, a 90-minute circuit with dozens of life-size dinosaur figures and footprints.

Parador de Calahorra

Best for luxury

El Puntido. Credit: Daniel Acevedo

With its rich tapestry of gold and ochre, autumn is a good time to visit Rioja and admire the changing colours of its vineyards, but if you travel in late spring and early summer you will enjoy longer days, warm weather and fantastic festivals such as La Cata del Barrio de la Estación. Being held this year on 15 June, it is a chance to visit the premises and taste fine wines from some of the most renowned wineries in Haro such as Bilbaínas, CVNE, Gómez Cruzado, La Rioja Alta, Muga and Roda, while savouring tapas prepared by top Riojan chefs.

Wine is obviously a key part of life here, but food doesn’t lag far behind. At Viñedos de Páganos, the Eguren family not only makes single-vineyard wines but it has also opened El Puntido, a fine-dining restaurant offering seasonal tasting menus and views of the surrounding vineyards and villages of Laguardia and Páganos. Driving along the vine-lined roads is an option, but as the El Puntido estate has its own heliport, you could splash out and fly there by helicopter.

If seeing Rioja from the skies sounds appealing, Aero Rioja offers scenic flights and introductory flying lessons, while Arco Iris takes visitors on hot-air balloon flights across La Rioja Alta. Lasting four hours in total, the views of the vineyards and mountains from the sky at dawn make for a truly unforgettable experience.

La Casa Cosme Palacio

Best on a budget

Agroturismo Valdelana. Credit: Sergio Otegui

Logroño is an essential stop for visitors to Rioja, and eating out doesn’t have to be expensive. The city is home to eight wineries, all of them open to visitors, as well as some imposing churches such as the cathedral.

Along the River Ebro are some pleasant paths to jog or stroll along, but the action is in the old town, where two streets stand out as the places to go for pinchos. On Calle Laurel and its side streets there are a plenty of small bars serving speciality pinchos.

These include Soriano (famous for its grilled mushrooms) and La Concordia, which serves a variety of delicious Spanish omelettes. Nearby on Calle San Juan, Tastavin and Torres both offer quality pinchos as well as a diverse selection of wines by the glass, some served with Coravin and at a fraction of the price you’d pay in cities like London or New York.

When it comes to partying, Rioja has a lot going for it. Whether it’s the famous Batalla del Vino or ‘Wine Battle’ in Haro, where people throw wine at each other with wild abandon, or the Fiestas of San Juan and San Pedro in Laguardia in June, featuring a baby bull run, there’s always something going on, particularly in the summer months.

A more introspective but fascinating activity available all year round is the Dolmen Route, a 20km walking and cycling itinerary through ancient megalithic tombs such as El Sotillo or La Hechicera. Set among vineyards, it is a great way to see Rioja Alavesa from a different perspective.

The Dolmen Route. Credit: Ruta del Vino de Rioja Alavesa

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Right in the centre of the country, just southeast of Tuscany and north of Rome, Umbria epitomises the best of Italy, its green hills a patchwork of olive trees, vines, fields and woodlands peppered with picturesque stone villages and an alluring array of cities of art. The wine scene is exciting, varied and fast-evolving, and biodiversity is deep-rooted: many wineries also produce olive oil and other crops. The region’s top wines continue to be from the centre and west, although other areas are emerging thanks to producers such as Leonardo Bussoletti, who is promoting wines from the Ciliegiolo variety around Narni, in southern Umbria.

In the west, Orvieto has been a centre of winemaking excellence since ancient Etruscan times (8th to 1st centuries BCE), later consolidated by Renaissance popes. Today’s producers are demonstrating the impressive longevity of Orvieto’s white blends, many of which benefit from time in naturally cool Etruscan caves, which act as ideal ageing cellars. And in central Umbria, Montefalco and Spoleto DOC areas overlap in a basin surrounded by hills. Here, Trebbiano Spoletino (thought not to be related to other grapes with the ‘Trebbiano’ name) is surging in popularity. In addition to extraordinary versatility for different styles, including spumante, such as the bitey brut nature made by historic winery Antonelli, the variety is naturally disease-resistant. Le Thadee makes a wine (named +128+) from its collection of 60-70 pre-phylloxera Trebbiano Spoletino vines (more than 100 years old), which are trained on field maples, climbing to heights of more than 3m; and they have propagated more. The winery’s attractive villa, built in the Italian ‘Liberty’ style of the early 20th century, will open for tastings from spring-summer 2024.

Credit: Maggie Nelson

Montefalco’s famously tannic Sagrantino is increasingly found in refreshingly elegant, contemporary styles, such as the fine and fruity DWWA 2023 Gold award winner Vignalunga Montefalco Sagrantino, made by Moretti Omero from vines above 400m. A flurry of winemaking experiments among local producers has resulted in multi- pronged advances for new-generation Sagrantino: Le Thadee’s velvety version, for example, begins its fermentation in amphorae.

Italy’s red mainstay Sangiovese is central to Montefalco Rosso and Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG, while at lake Trasimeno – in the north of the region near its capital, Perugia – Trasimeno Gamay (Grenache, in its historically misnamed local guise) is gaining ever more international attention, including recognition at the Grenaches du Monde awards.

While Umbria is delightful year-round, most wine-themed events run from spring to autumn: Trasimeno Rosé Festival (late April 2024), Cantine Aperte winery open days (25-26 May) and Enologica Montefalco (20-22 September). Among the wineries with accommodation, Roccafiore near Todi is centrally located and offers excellent wines, a restaurant and spa; the vineyard Wine Chalet is idyllic.

Orvieto

The farmhouse at the centre of the Madonna del Latte estate in the Orvieto countryside

A visit to Palazzone provides an all-encompassing experience of the essence of Orvieto, with views over the city on its rocky perch just 5km away. Book a vertical tasting of four vintages of Campo del Guardiano Orvieto Classico Superiore and experience the exceptional ageing capacity of Orvieto’s whites (€120 per person including tour and lunch). Alternatively, opt for lunch with the winemaker, tasting from the barrel, truffle hunting, or a simple winery tour and tasting. Wines include a brut nature traditional-method spumante with local variety Verdello, and Musco – an old-style field blend of Procanico, Verdello and Malvasia fermented in chestnut barrels in an Etruscan cave. Winemaker Pietro Dubini’s father Giovanni is president of Umbria’s Movimento Turismo del Vino association, and hospitality is first class. Rooms at the locanda, a restored medieval pilgrims’ hostel, feature a stylish combination of historical elements and contemporary design.

The decision by Leon Zwecker’s parents to buy a tumbledown farmhouse in the Orvieto countryside inspired him to embark on international winemaking studies after leaving high school in Germany and, for the past 15 years, he’s been running Madonna del Latte. The estate’s 5ha of vineyards and hundreds of olive trees grow on volcanic soil around the beautifully restored farmhouse where Zwecker lives with his Lithuanian wife and young family. The winery is built into the hill behind, and below is a country- chic tasting room and naturally cool Etruscan cave, which makes a perfect barrel room.

Here, he makes superb wines largely with international varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Viognier, including an exquisite barrel-fermented version of the latter (a DWWA 2023 Silver award winner). As Zwecker points out: ‘We’re an international family – we make international wines.’ There are amazing views across to Orvieto from the terrace garden at the historic location of Cantine Neri, a medieval Templars’ residence. In 2006, Enrico Neri decided to start producing wine rather than just selling grapes, and he concentrates on traditional local varieties for his intense Orvieto Classico Superiore and other wines. Neri pioneered traditional-method Grechetto spumante, opting for the more aromatic variety known as Grechetto G5 (Grechetto Gentile) rather than the more structured, separate variety Grechetto G109 used in DOC Orvieto. Winery tours (from €28) take in the Etruscan caves, where wines are aged and old vintages stored, and options include blind or vertical tastings, blending experiences and pairings with estate-produced charcuterie.

The lounge at Locanda Palazzone, near Orvieto

Todi

Todi is home to the enticingly fragrant Grechetto Gentile, used for Iacopo Paolucci’s first wine, Iacopone, dedicated to Jacopone da Todi, the town’s celebrated medieval friar- poet. A clear-sighted winemaker and self-starter, Paolucci began in 2016 with a degree in winemaking and experience with a big-name producer under his belt. He works 6ha of vines from a tiny, garage-style winery complete with bottling line and picturesque pergola for tastings, with a single assistant and two or three ginger cats. Paolucci hosts a village party each July nearby at Doglio, where time seems to have stood still and older-generation villagers have provided invaluable testimonies about the traditional grapes that were grown here. Paolucci has helped resuscitate the spicy red Grero and he’s introduced Verdello here, too (as distinct from ‘Verdelho’), with the first harvest due this year. He also makes pét-nat and passito versions of Grechetto Gentile.

Montefalco

At Giampaolo Tabarrini, wines can be tasted with seaonal tapas

When Peter Heilbron started producing wine in 2008, his sole aim was to make Sagrantino with a new elegance, drawing fresh finesse from a grape known for its challenging tannins. He acquired a scenic 30ha estate, Tenuta Bellafonte near Bevagna with olive trees, woodland and vines including 2ha of Sagrantino, and rebuilt the stone farmhouse (available for rent, with an indoor pool). Here Sagrantino vines face east, a break from the south-facing norm, meaning that tannins don’t ripen fully and are not all released from the grape skins during whole-berry fermentation, resulting in a vibrant, harmonious wine (Collenottolo). Heilbron’s first encounter with Trebbiano Spoletino was love at first sip; he now makes two remarkable versions, including the wood-fermented Arnèto, which means ‘reborn’ in the local dialect.

The world has Marco Caprai, son of the eponymous founder of Arnaldo Caprai, to thank for bringing dry Sagrantino – previously only known in a passito version – to wider attention. After taking the helm at the winery in 1986, Marco initiated the first of an ongoing series of research projects that included the introduction of wine consultant Michel Rolland’s vinification intégrale method, in which whole grapes are fermented in barriques with dry ice and the barrels are slowly rotated to break up the cap of grape skins, to produce a smooth, rich Sagrantino. Marco’s love for local history and traditions also led him to initiate the Strada del Sagrantino wine route. The winery is one of several that have adopted centenarian vines in central Montefalco, and it’s active in a number of cultural, social and educational initiatives. Walk-ins are welcome for simple tastings (book for tours, from €65 up to €200 per person) and the views from the vineyard terrace under an old oak tree are well worth the short stroll from the winery.

A force of nature and whirlwind of ideas, Giampaolo Tabarrini first bottled his family’s wines in 1996 and, after juggling this for several years with his career in accountancy, he left the day job to channel his abundant energy into wine. Research he carried out with the University of Florence during the early 2000s has been instrumental in the resurgence of Trebbiano Spoletino, Umbria’s rising white star, and Tabarrini’s Adarmando shows the variety’s ageing potential. A new method for smoother Sagrantino is being developed at the winery, and although details are undisclosed, results are evident in Tabarrini’s fourth Sagrantino cru, Il Bisbetico Domato. The finishing touches are being added to a sleek new structure (book for guided cellar tours, from €25 or €20 if combined with a tasting) that includes a pop-in bar and roof terrace, with shop and event space to come, yet this remains firmly a family business: the team’s latest addition, Tabarrini’s son Filippo, is showing as much enthusiasm as his father.

Torgiano

Vines surround the swimming pool beside Lungarotti’s farmhouse accommodation

Celebrations are in store during 2024 for Lungarotti, which first put Umbria on the wine map, as it marks the 60th anniversary of Vigna Monticchio Rubesco Riserva, a complex Sangiovese cru that deserves its place among Italy’s best. It’s also the 50th birthday of MUVIT, the Lungarotti Foundation’s magnificent wine museum, which has more than 3,000 wine-related items and artworks; a retrospective photo exhibition opens on 23 April – St George’s day, when Torgiano’s vineyards traditionally glow with celebratory bonfires. Tasty Umbrian food and estate wines are served at the museum’s Osteria (the €7 ticket price includes a glass of wine) and accommodation is available nearby. Other wines range from white blend Torre di Giano (Vermentino, Trebbiano and Grechetto offering an explosion of freshness) to Sagrantino from Lungarotti’s Montefalco estate. Sustainability is a byword and initiatives include regenerative agriculture practices.

Lake Trasimeno

Lake Trasimeno and Polvese island, from the shores at San Feliciano. Credit: Davide Seddio / Getty Images

Dynamic winemaker Nicola Chiucchiurlotto of Madrevite took over the family estate in 2003 and, inspired by a trip to France, set about restoring the Trasimeno Gamay traditionally grown in the area. Thanks to clay-based soils and the vicinity of lake Trasimeno in one direction and lake Chiusi in the other, the vines flourish, producing velvety-smooth wines characterised by intense fruit and spice.

Chiucchiurlotto experiments with methods including partial whole-bunch fermentation for C’osa (DWWA 2023 Gold) and a variation on the Tuscan Governo double-fermentation technique, in which leftover skins from Madrevite’s first production run of rosé are added in with freshly harvested grapes to create the red Opra. The winery has a friendly, youthful vibe, especially during summer sunset picnic events (contact via website for details): this is reflected in wines such as Futura, a fresh pét-nat Trebbiano Spoletino.

Just 10km from Perugia, the Carini winery has a charming farmhouse style, with attractively converted stables where tastings of the wines and produce, including sheep’s cheeses and cured meats, are held (from €25 per person, book via website). Several walking routes cross the estate, which has woodland where pigs feed on acorns and chestnuts, about 10ha of olive trees for four single-cultivar oils, and 12ha under vine. Events include truffle hunts and cookery classes, but the wines are the main focus. While a new Riserva version of Tegolaro (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) is due in June 2024, winemaker Luca Partenza believes in the great potential of Trasimeno Gamay and has planted more for wines such as Oscano rosé and, due in 2025, a traditional-method rosé.

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Every year is worth celebrating, but 2024 is one for the books, filled with major milestone moments saluted in the most lavish of ways.

Spring feels like a global fête with everything from pop-up parties by lauded wineries in major metropolises around the world to super-exclusive wine-pairing dinners in legendary cellars and private estates that will have you living out your Bridgerton or Downton Abbey fantasies in no time.

The beauty of wine is that with just a sip you’ll be transported to the vineyards, and you can keep the memory alive with collector pieces in collaboration with major artists like Daniel Arsham, who partnered with Moët Hennessy for the launch of a new Champagne collection.

But if you do have the urge to travel somewhere of bucket list calibre (with wines just as exclusive), we’ve found splurge-worthy options everywhere from a sophisticated river barge in Champagne to a luxe lodge in Antarctica. Spring couldn’t be off to a more exhilarating start.

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The Netherlands might not be synonymous with wine culture: both its northerly latitude and the fact that much of the country is below sea level make it a little difficult to grow vines (although the southernmost regions are increasingly home to many of the same grapes as Germany). But that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of satisfied wine lovers in Amsterdam, the country’s vibrant capital.

Amsterdam punches well above its weight in many respects. While the city’s population is still less than a million, it counts around 180 nationalities among its inhabitants and up to a whopping 20 million visitors per year. All of this means that a trip to Amsterdam doesn’t stop at a bike ride through the city’s UNESCO World Heritage canal belt or a visit to the Van Gogh Museum. Amsterdam’s cosmopolitan culture comes across in its thousands of restaurants and bars, featuring everything from Dutch pancakes to authentic Japanese ramen, and from heady bock beers to fascinating wines from all over the world. In fact, it’s perhaps the very absence of a strong domestic wine culture that has made Amsterdam’s wine bars the eclectic mix they are today. You’ll find some specialising in natural wines, others in sparkling wines and others still in lesser-known wine regions.

Like many cities in northern Europe, Amsterdam comes alive in summer – with its long, light evenings, dozens of green spaces and sprawling café terraces. But summer also brings a glut of tourists, making the city busier and more crowded than it is during the colder months. And what could be lovelier than cosying up in a softly lit wine bar in December with a rich, ripe glass of red? As the Dutch would say: gezellig.

Paskamer

Lutmastraat 132
Mon – Fri 16:00 – 00:00; Sat & Sun 15:00 – 00:00

Tucked away off the beaten path in the De Pijp neighbourhood, Paskamer offers around 50 wines by the glass and hundreds by the bottle. The staff are extremely knowledgeable, with many having studied at the Amsterdam Wine Academy, which is run by the same duo as Paskamer. Entrepreneurs Fransje van Santen and Wouter Aalst don’t stop at wine, though. Book a table in the evening and you’ll be treated to a range of shareable dishes, each of which can be expertly paired with the wines on offer that day. Think smoky octopus with spicy mayo served with a minerally Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris) from Pfalz. Or sesame and horseradish marinated salmon with an Alsace Pinot Blanc carrying just a touch of residual sweetness.

Image: Tapas served at Oocker. Credit: Vicky Hampton

Oocker

Frederiksplein 29h
Mon, Tue & Thu 15:00 – 23:00; Fri & Sat 15:00 – 00:00; Sun 15:00 – 22:00

At the end of fashionable Utrechtsestraat, Oocker occupies a narrow space that’s typical of Dutch architecture – transformed into not only a cosy bar but also a little sun trap of a terrace. Oocker’s list of around 350 wines is diverse, coming from all over the world and at many different price points. But the quality and thoughtfulness behind each bottle is undeniable. From a smooth Jura Crémant to a minerally Dão white blend to a buttery Argentinian Chardonnay, every recommendation is spot on. During the afternoon, Oocker offers a limited menu of upscale snacks (such as Ibérico ham croquettes or burrata bruschetta), but in the evening a more extensive menu of hot dishes is available. The bone marrow is a particular treat, especially with a full-bodied red!

Rayleigh & Ramsay

Van Woustraat 97; Van Noordtstraat 28
Mon – Thu 15.00 – 01.00; Fri & Sat 12.00 – 02.00; Sun 12.00 – 23.00

Rayleigh & Ramsay describes itself as a candy store for adults, and as soon as you walk into one of its two locations you can see why. More than 100 wines are available by the glass, half glass and tasting sample from a dozen or so wine dispensing machines. The blanket system is used to ensure the open wines are perfectly preserved, and each machine is kept at exactly the right temperature for the wines it holds. What’s more, there are information cards above each bottle, so you can go full wine nerd. It’s a fantastic way to taste wines you might otherwise never get to try – whether that’s a pricy Puligny Montrachet (a half glass will set you back just a few euros, while a full bottle would be unaffordable for many) or an experimental Canadian wine that you’ve never heard of.

Image: Rayleigh & Ramsay. Credit: Vicky Hampton

Bottleshop

Wibautstraat 130
Wed & Thu 18:00 – 00:00; Fri 17:00 – 02:00; Sat 17:00 – 1:00; Sun 13:00 – 18:00

The trend for natural wines has hit Amsterdam hard in the last couple of years, so it’s no surprise that one of Amsterdam’s hottest new additions in 2023 was a natural wine bar. Bottleshop is east of the river, occupying a black & white-striped, ultra-modern building on the up-and-coming Wibautstraat. Even if you’re not 100% convinced by natural wines, Bottleshop’s fruity, farmyard-y French Gamay and juicy, low-extraction Cabernet Franc may well have you converted. Add some pungent, unpasteurised French cheeses, or even just a wedge of sourdough bread with creamy salted butter, and you’ve got a low-intervention match made in heaven.

GlouGlou

Tweede van der Helststraat 3
Mon – Fri 15:00 – 00:00; Sat & Sun 14:00 – 0:00

Staying in the natural wine theme, GlouGlou was perhaps the first wine bar in Amsterdam to really embrace the trend (and before it was trendy). GlouGlou is small and homely, in keeping with its location in de Pijp neighbourhood, with dark wooden walls and a hotchpotch of tables crammed inside and out. There is a wine list, but it’s generally more exciting (and better value) to go off menu and order a few glasses of whatever surprise bottles have been opened that day. In addition to being organic, the wines are made without industrial yeast or filtration – so they skew cloudy and funky. GlouGlou also puts on an annual Beaujolais Nouveau party, which is fun if you happen to be in Amsterdam on the third Thursday in November!

Image: Bar Pif. Credit: Vicky Hampton

Bar Pif

Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 10
Mon, Tue & Thu 17.00 – 00.00; Fri & Sat 16.00 – 01.00; Sun 16.00 – 23.00

No trip to Amsterdam would be complete without visiting the maze of narrow cobbled streets and canals that is the Jordaan. And when it’s time for a pit stop, you’ll find Bar Pif: Dutch canal house on the outside, Parisian bistro on the inside. The wine list is also made up primarily of natural wines, but many of them are a little more accessible to traditional wine lovers. If hipster rosé field blends and skin contact orange wines are not your thing, you’ll find more traditional Champagnes and Barolos, too. Meanwhile, there’s a menu of internationally inspired sharing plates to choose from: think French oeuf mayonnaise but with a mushroom XO sauce.

4850

Camperstraat 48-50
Dinner Thu – Sun from 18:00; coffee & buns Mon – Sun 9:00 – 15:00

It’s hard to say whether 4850 is more of a restaurant, a wine bar or a coffee house. In the daytime, it does an excellent line in flat whites and pillowy cinnamon buns. But in the evening, it transforms into a casual-yet-quality eatery that’s known for its extensive wine selection as much as its Nordic-inspired menu. Owner Daniel Schein’s wine list focuses on France – in particular Burgundy, Jura, Champagne and the Loire Valley – but with around 700 bottles on offer it’s fair to say the rest of the world is also well represented. The à la carte food menu is short but well-curated, using local ingredients with a nod to Schein’s Nordic heritage.

Bubbles & Wines

Nes 37
Tue – Sat 15:00 – 0:00, Sun 15:00 – 22:00

Bubbles & Wines may be last in this list, but it’s by no means least. In fact, when it opened almost 20 years ago, it was one of the only credible wine bars in Amsterdam – arguably paving the way for all the others and single-handedly raising the profile of wines in Amsterdam. As its name suggests, Bubbles & Wines specialises in Champagne and sparkling wines, plus a wide range of Old World and New World still wines. Its location just off Dam square inevitably invites tourists, but plenty of locals are loyal to this Amsterdam wine stalwart as well. If you can’t decide what to drink, the ‘High Wines’ arrangement comes highly recommended: six or eight half glasses of wine in a range of styles, with paired bites. The Parmesan with truffle honey and Rioja rosado is inspired.

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Wine shops in Atlanta are gathering spots for residents. Orchestrated tastings, winemaker visits and food and wine pairing events have made these shops in vogue in the city. Many carry natural and biodynamic producers, while others hoard a stockpile of collectable wines.

To understand the city’s intricacies, one must explore its distinct neighbourhoods and the wine shops among them. Inman Park claims an eclectic population with local restaurants and bookstores. Buckhead is home to the city’s finer things, with high-end hotels and boutiques. An up-and-coming West End neighbourhood has distilleries and a buzzing nightlife. The city is lassoed by a ‘beltline’, a 35km paved trail for pedestrians, cyclists, muralists, and musicians.

And at the wine shops, you will see a representation of almost all pockets of the city. The shop owners have certified staff to help visitors find the perfect bottle for dinner or explain what tannins mean without the pretension one often finds in wine. Whether it’s a natural wine with a side of sardines, a Burgundian rarity, or what is lovingly called a ‘porch-pounder,’ here in the South, Atlanta’s wine shops have a find for everyone.

Fantastic selection at Perrine’s Wine Shop. Credit: Perrine’s Wine Shop

Perrine’s Wine Shop

A fresh cheese delivery from France scents the air at Perrine’s Wine Shop in West Midtown, owned and operated by Burgundy-born Perrine Prieur Gallardo. If it’s not cheese, it’s the seasonal truffles that have made a landing.

With three locations around the city, the flagship Westside store is home to the ‘Burgundy wall’ lined with producers like Domaine Leflaive, Château de Béru, Domaine Michel Magnien, Domaine François Mikulski and Domaine Ponsot, among other grand cru heavy-hitters. Prieur is a certified sommelier and focuses on organic and biodynamic wines from around the world, including a stellar Champagne selection. It includes the 2013 Champagne Salon for $1,305 and special club Champagnes such as the 2018 Famille Moussé ‘Les Fortes Terres’ for $154. The 2019 Pere Mata ‘Cupada No. 26’ Cava at $20 is a great budget-friendly option. If inclined towards adventure, a shiny sabre rests in its box atop the rows of wine, though it is unclear if it is for sale.

All three shops, in Westside, Buckhead and Sandy Springs, offer educational tastings. Certified staff and visiting winemakers guide guests through a seated lineup, always paired with cheese and charcuterie at long tables dotted with bouquets from the local florist.

Helpful staff at 3 Parks Wine. Credit: Andy Leverett

3 Parks Wine

With locations in Glenwood Park and Old Fourth Ward, 3 Parks Wine is an Atlanta staple. Sarah Pierre runs the shops, focusing on Black-owned brands and wines made by women. Among Black producers, Pierre has a selection of sommelier André Mack’s Maison Noir wines for $21 to $27, Brown Estate wines plus McBride Sisters, among others. Sought-after fine wines such as the 2018 Domaine Jean Macle Côtes du Jura Blanc for $72, 2017 Didier Dagueneau ‘Pur Sang’ Pouilly Fumé for $130 and 2022 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir for $105 are unique finds.

The shops embody Atlanta’s culture of casual finesse. The Inman Park location feels like an upscale coffee shop but with wine, with its floor-to-ceiling windows and communal seating. Daily wine flights are offered for $25, and customers can enjoy bottle purchases on the outdoor patio.

Dom Beijos. Credit: Andy Leverett

Dom Beijos

This quintessential neighbourhood wine shop is next door to a butcher and bakery. Dom Beijos is tucked in the historic Kirkwood community and boasts an extensive selection of Portuguese wines. More than 60 regional producers line the shelves, like Folias de Baco, Vieira de Sousa, and the stellar 1994 São João Quinta do Poço do Lobo Arinto for $62. The latest additions are the Azores Wine Company volcanic soil wines, including a 2019 Arinto dos Açores. Wines from other Old as well as New World regions are also sold.

Melissa Abreu and her husband, Justin Stewart, run the shop. Abreu grew up with family in Portugal and recalls stomping grapes in the Dão region as a child. She pays homage to her Portuguese roots, bringing a taste of the area to the neighbourhood.

The shop offers daily $10 flight tastings, including by-the-glass pours. It also sells speciality olive oils, like the one from Sicilian biodynamic producer COS, and tinned fish.

Hop City Beer and Wine. Credit: Hop City Beer and Wine

Hop City Beer and Wine

One of the Hop City Beer and Wine locations is inside the Krog Street Market food hall in the Inman Park neighbourhood. The casual spot is a key watering hole, with craft beer on tap and one of the city’s largest López de Heredia Rioja selections. The store stocks several vintages of Viña Tondonia Reserva from 2001 to 2012, including a 2011 for $55. You can also pick up a 2001 Gran Reserva for $155.

The relaxed nature of this wine shop, which shares the food hall space with ramen shops, pizzerias and chocolatiers, is inviting to the casual drinker and collector alike. The shop also offers some first-growth Bordeaux producers, Château d’Yquem, a Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon and an extensive craft beer selection.

Inman Park’s VinoTeca. Credit: VinoTeca

VinoTeca

A lineup of tasting events and live music makes this Inman Park neighbourhood shop a warm location for wine enthusiasts to gather. Katie Rice runs the store and brings in small-batch, family-owned wines focusing on natural, organic and biodynamic picks.

The selection includes diverse regions showcased by the 2022 Mersel ‘Phoenix’ field blend from Lebanon for $26, the 2019 Los Bermejos Brut Nature Espumoso from the Canary Islands for $43, Bodegas Luis Perez ‘El Triángulo’ Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz for $32, and Nine Oaks Khikhvi from the country of Georgia for $33. A collection of older vintages is also available in a cellar space such as 2008 Can Ràfols dels Caus Xarel·lo Pairal. The shop specialises in Spanish wines, with a particular love for Grenache.

Honourable mentions

Other wine shops worth a visit include Sherlock’s Wine Merchant, which opened in 1986. With three locations in Buckhead, Marietta and Kennesaw, the shop features a collection of older vintages and fine wines, including Bordeaux selections from the 1980s.

Elemental Spirits Co. in the Poncey-Highland neighbourhood touts a selection of natural wines and low-intervention production spirits. Highland Fine Wine in the Virginia Highland and Morningside neighbourhoods offers an extensive collection of family-owned wineries, fine reserves and older vintages. Fermented wine boutique in downtown Alpharetta is ideal for a getaway from the city. A 40-minute drive lands you in a charming neighbourhood with restaurants and boutiques alongside this wine shop with small producers, natural wines and a large tasting room.

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Tuscany is top of the travel wish-list for many wine lovers. From the romance of its rolling hills covered with sun-kissed vines, to the art and history of its ancient cities, Tuscany embodies the Italian idyll. And a visit to Villa La Massa will live up to every expectation.

Dating back to the 13th century, the villa became the summer residence of Florentine aristocrat Santi Landini in the 16th century. Later owned by a Catholic cardinal and Russian aristocracy, it first opened its doors as a hotel in 1953. Famous guests have included Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton; while David Bowie and Iman celebrated their wedding here in 1992, in the estate’s tiny chapel.

Luxury living

Today part of Villa d’Este Hotels, the property offers the kind of accommodation and service that would make Florentine aristocrats feel right at home. Nestled on the banks of the Arno River, just 20 minutes outside Florence, the estate includes a 10ha park and beautifully kept gardens, as well as an outdoor swimming pool and spa.

Its 54 elegantly appointed rooms and suites are spread across six buildings, including the original main house; guests can also hire one of the two private villas for a secluded break. The style throughout is classically Tuscan; think warm terracotta, wood, stone and relaxing earthy tones, but with an artful contemporary twist.

Stylish and restful, the generous rooms and suites are individually decorated – some with private balconies or terraces. Expect tall shuttered windows framed by luxurious drapes, plush velvet throws and cushions, and blissfully comfortable four poster or canopy beds with downy pillows and soft white linens.

A taste of Italy

You may never want to leave your room, but it’s worth venturing to Villa La Massa’s two restaurants, where culinary delights await. With its terrace overlooking the Arno, Il Verrocchio offers a seasonal fine-dining menu created by charming chef Stefano Ballarino. Dishes make use of fresh produce from the hotel’s kitchen garden and estate-produced extra-virgin olive oil.

The contemporary Italian menu may include juicy seared scallops with zucchini, black olives and puffed rice, followed by an indulgent primi of smoked butter spaghetti with shrimps and caper leaves or Parmigiana ravioli with prawns, oregano and smoked scamorza cheese. While secondi choices might range from swordfish saltimbocca to roasted guinea fowl with linseeds, black salsify and stuffed olives.

L’Oliveto Bistro, with its pretty poolside terrace, offers more casual fare. Top-quality Italian ingredients shine in simply prepared dishes bursting with flavour. Think panzanella Toscana, burrata with tomatoes and basil or beef carpaccio with Mugello black truffle; followed by spaghetti vongole, grilled sea bass with caponata or a thin crispy-based pizza.

Wines and vineyards

To accompany the food, Villa La Massa’s wine list champions Italian bottles – particularly those of producers from the local Chianti Rufina region. The 15th century wine cellar boasts an impressive selection of vintage Tuscan bottles and private tastings can be booked.

But if you’d rather visit the vines in person, bespoke winery tours can also be arranged by the hotel. The striking Antinori nel Chianto Classico winery is just a 30-minute drive away. But I ventured further into Radda-in-Chianti, to visit the boutique organic winery Colle Bereto.

With its 20ha of vines, the winery produces Chianti Classicos and two Super-Tuscans –  Il Tócco and Il Cénno – alongside Colle B spumante, Colle E rosé and Albo Bianco. Enjoy a relaxed tasting of the whole range on the winery’s picturesque terrace, with views of the medieval town of Radda, accompanied by platters of local cheese and salumi.

Things to do

The hotel will arrange transfers and winery tours, but there are plenty more activities on offer. Foodies can go truffle-hunting in season or learn how to make fresh pasta, focaccia or pizza from scratch in one of Chef Ballarino’s fun cooking classes. Practise your mixology skills at glamorous Bar Mediceo. Or borrow one of the estate’s red Ferraris for an unforgettable drive through the winding streets of nearby picture-postcard villages.

To enjoy a more leisurely pace follow one of the scenic walking trails around the estate or linger in the beautiful Iris Gardens that celebrate the floral symbol of Florence. Villa La Massa is a member of the Grandi Giardini Italiani association, so horticulturists can also take advantage of private visits to other stunning gardens in the region – including Villa Marlia, which is usually closed to visitors.

Meanwhile the sights of Florence are just a 15-minute drive away; Villa La Massa operates a free shuttle service with hourly departures and pick-ups from Piazza di Santa Maria Soprarno. Spend an afternoon exploring the Uffizi Gallery, then return to the hotel for aperitivo on the terrace, Aperol Spritz in hand as the sun sets over the Tuscan hills. You’ll truly feel that you’re living la dolce vita.

Rates from: €550 (£473) for a Double Deluxe Room per night, including breakfast.

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However, not all Manhattan-based wine stores are created equal, and seeking one that best suits your needs is a great place to start. Whether looking for well-aged greats from France and Italy or a unique selection of low-intervention or natural wines, Manhattan certainly has a well-stocked store for you; it’s simply a matter of knowing where to look.

We’ve done the hard work for you and rounded up a curated list of Manhattan’s best wine shops, and a couple from Brooklyn. Our picks cover a diverse array of selections and are situated across a variety of NYC neighbourhoods. In short? If you’re in Manhattan, access to great wine is likely just a few blocks away.

Manhattan

Millesima USA (Upper East Side)

Now located at its brand new address of 1257 Second Avenue at E. 66th Street, this long-standing New York icon debuts a new chapter of its historic story. Founded in 1983 in Bordeaux, the family-owned company opened its New York retail location back in 2006 and is best known for its luxurious design and fine wine / collectable offerings, though it doesn’t stop there. In addition to sought-after Bordeaux (the shop’s undeniable speciality), Millesima also offers a large array of mid-range drinkers from Burgundy and Champagne, as well as smaller lineups from America, the southern hemisphere, and the Iberian peninsula.

Credit:Mikhail Lipyanskiy for Millesima USA

Astor Wines & Spirits (Greenwich Village)

For one of New York’s largest wine and spirits selections – as well as some of its lowest, unbeatable prices – look no further than Astor Wines & Spirits. Located at 399 Lafayette Street, this long-standing, warehouse-esque store is situated in a landmark 19th-century building and offers a massive variety of wines and spirits from around the world. Whether seeking out something quirky (a Sagrantino, Vermentino and Dolcetto pét-nat from Australia, anyone?) or gems for the cellar, Astor Wines & Spirits (hello, 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur from Raveneau) truly has something for every wine drinker in the city. You likely won’t find the bottle you’re looking for at a better price. As of 2022, Astor Wines & Spirits officially became an employee-owned company and today stocks an impressive 5,000+ SKUs.

Crush Wine & Spirits (Midtown East)

Situated in Manhattan’s Midtown East neighbourhood, Crush Wine & Spirits was founded by native New Yorkers Drew Nieporent, Josh Guberman, and Robert Schagrin back in 2005. The shop focuses on its ‘pillar’ regions: Champagne, Burgundy, Piedmont, Beaujolais, Germany, Loire and Northern Rhône, though also offers a variety of selections from South America, Austria and beyond. Crush also has a Fine & Rare department providing corporate gifting services and one-on-one cellar building consulting. In addition, it regularly offers early access to special offers and discounts via email (be sure to sign up to the mailing list!). Current feature highlights include Pascal Cotat Sancerre, a White Burgundy selection dating back to 2008, and ‘Jura Rarities’ from Montbourgeau, Domaine du Pélican and Fumey-Chatelain.

Parcelle (Midtown West)

Every so often, a new wine shop comes to Manhattan’s scene and gives its historic counterparts a run for their money. Such is the case for Parcelle, which first opened its doors back in 2018. Spearheaded by sommelier Grant Reynolds, Parcelle marks the first retail concept for the city’s beloved Delicious Hospitality Group, which is best known as the brains behind Charlie Bird, Pasquale Jones and Legacy Records. The shop offers a variety of daily drinkers and mid-range offerings, as well as a Fine & Rare section that promises to wow collectors of all stripes (think large-format Champagne, back-vintage Mascarello and more). Parcelle offers a daily deal, which is easily found at the top of its website and, as of summer 2022, also has a partner wine bar at 135 Division Street that offers similar by-the-glass pours and regular on-site events.

Credit: Parcelle

Somm Cellars (Upper West Side)

Like Parcelle, Somm Cellars is also a welcome new addition to Manhattan’s wine shop scene. Owned by friends (and industry vets) Jason Jacobeit and Daniel Jung, formerly of Bâtard and Tribeca Grill, respectively, Somm Cellars seeks to bring a curated array of wines and spirits to New York’s Upper West Side with an emphasis on high-level hospitality and inclusivity. The shop is situated on the ground floor of One Waterline Square, which doubles as the perfect backdrop for hosting a variety of events. The team sends out daily email offers featuring discounted back-vintage bottles (recent offers include 1983 Château Talbot, St-Julien and Robert Chevillon wines dating back to 1997) and also sells an array of accessories, including Zalto and Riedel glassware along with Coravin preservation devices.

Chambers Street Wines (Tribeca)

Deemed one of the OG natural wine stores in New York, Chambers Street Wines’ massive influence on the industry still reverberates today. Founded in 2001 by David Lillie and Jamie Wolff, this artisanal wine-focused staple recently moved from its original location at 149 Chambers Street down to 79 Chambers Street, yet its focus remains the same. Chambers has long pioneered small-batch wines from growers committed to sustainability, with an emphasis on the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Piedmont and Austria. In the words of the shop: ‘Every wine we stock is tasted, re-tasted, debated,’ and the commitment to authenticity, coupled with the shop’s knowledgeable staff, is undeniably what’s made it a Manhattan wine staple for over 20 years.

Flatiron Wines & Spirits (Flatiron)

Flatiron Wine & Spirits has been an institution in the Flatiron / Union Square / NoMad area since its opening in 2012. Last year, the shop relocated from its original 21st / 22nd Street location to a roomier space on 18th and Broadway, allowing for on-site events, classes – and, of course, more carefully sourced wines. In addition to a robust Burgundy section, what Flatiron does best is its daily drinker selection, with a plentiful amount of bottles clocking in between the $15 and $25 dollar price points. Whether classically styled bottles or more eccentric natural wines are what you’re after, this well-curated shop’s got something for every price point.

Credit: Wine Therapy

Wine Therapy (Nolita)

Natural wine lovers in the know are no strangers to the powerful impact that Wine Therapy has had on the city’s burgeoning, low-intervention wine scene. Founded in 2005 by Jean-Baptiste Humbert, Wine Therapy began pioneering eclectic, off-the-beaten-path grape varieties, regions and producers far before doing so was fashionable, and today continues to stock its shelves with the same ethos as day one. Expect classic natural wine pillars such as Les Capriades, Agnès et René Mosse, and Fabien Jouves to grace the shelves, as well as more eccentric picks from Greece, Slovenia and beyond. (The shop also boasts an impressive lineup of rosé, orange wines and pét-nats.) Wine Therapy also offers curated cases and free local delivery, as well as delivery throughout Manhattan and Brooklyn for an added fee.

Brooklyn

Leon & Son (Clinton Hill)

In the realm of Brooklyn wine shop offerings, Leon & Son has completely changed the game. Founded by industry veteran Chris Leon back in 2015, the shop fervently (and successfully) pursued its initial goal of becoming Clinton Hill’s go-to neighbourhood wine shop – and has since taken the entire borough by storm. Focused on ‘hidden gem wines from progressive and natural winemakers’, Leon’s selection highlights classics and newcomers alike while shedding equal light on classic regions (Piedmont, Burgundy, Champagne) and lesser-known areas in other countries (Portugal, Australia, and South Africa).

Credit: Leon & Son

Brooklyn Wine Exchange (Cobble Hill)

Situated on the border of Brooklyn Heights and Cobble Hill, Brooklyn Wine Exchange first opened its doors in 2009 and has since become a pillar in the borough’s off-premise wine industry. The shop’s friendly staff and easy-to-navigate site make exploring new wines easy and hassle free, with prompts like ‘chilled reds’, ‘crisp mineral whites’, ‘certified biodynamic’ and ‘vegan-friendly’ promising to lead new drinkers and seasoned wine lovers alike to something new and exciting. The shop also offers annual memberships for $100, with benefits including 10% off wines and 5% off most spirits with every in-person or online purchase. We’d also be remiss not to highlight the impeccably curated spirits selection, which features a variety of classic whiskies and agave-based spirits, as well as amari, liqueurs and vermouths.

Additional wine shop recommendations in Manhattan:

Beaupierre Wine & Spirits (Hell’s Kitchen)
Morrell Wine (Midtown)
Pasanella & Son Vintners (Downtown / South Street Seaport)
Tribeca Wine Merchants (Tribeca)
Convive Wine & Spirits (East Village)
Discovery Wines (Lower East Side)
Wine & Unwind (Harlem)
Grape Collective (Upper West Side)
Eastside Cellars (Upper East Side)

Additional wine shop recommendations in Brooklyn

Vine Wine (Williamsburg)
Smith & Vine (Carroll Gardens)
VyneYard (Prospect Lefferts Gardens)
Slope Cellars (Park Slope)
Thirst Wine Merchants (Fort Greene)
Good Wine (Park Slope)
Vanderbilt Ave Wine Merchants (Prospect Heights)

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Stretching some 1,500km from the Czech Republic and Austria to Serbia, passing through Hungary, Poland, Slovakia, Ukraine and Romania along the way, the Carpathian mountains are Europe’s third-longest mountain chain after the Urals and the Scandinavian mountains. These majestic and mysterious mountains have arguably played as significant a factor in the development of the region’s history and culture as Europe’s second-longest river, the Danube, and the encroachment and retreat of empires Roman, Ottoman and Habsburg, not to mention the more recent impact of the Soviet era. They also have a remarkably long winemaking tradition, dating back several thousand years.

The Carpathian foothills experience a relatively mild climate with plenty of both rain and hot, sunny days, while also possessing a diversity of volcanic soils, and today they represent a versatile paradise for wine lovers, where the ancient art of winemaking is grandly celebrated. In this wine haven, the old ‘New World’ of varieties such as Furmint, Welschriesling, Kadarka, Kékfrankos and other discoveries await, along with rich historic cultures, breathtaking landscapes and the broadly undiscovered wine scenes of central Europe. With only a small percentage of the local wine leaving its respective countries, there’s a vast tapestry of labels waiting to be explored.

For wine enthusiasts, an excellent way to discover this expansive area is by visiting one or more of the region’s regular wine festivals. Many of the countries through which the Carpathians pass saw their wine industries suffer during the communist era, and today, as they work to rebuild and expand, there’s a palpable enthusiasm and desire to share the local traditions with the wider world.

Slovakia, Romania, Poland and Hungary would all make great places to start, each home to millennia-old winemaking cultures that are keenly re-emerging after shrugging off the communist cloak and each hosting a number of annual festivals, a selection of which are presented here.

Slovakia

The historical wine town of Svätý Jur, near Bratislava, seen from surrounding vineyards in the foothills of the Small Carpathians. Credit: Volkerpreusser / Alamy Stock Photo

Chute Malých Karpát 2024

Event date: 9 November

Set among sprawling vineyards and charming traditional villages in a particularly picturesque part of southwestern Slovakia, the Taste of the Small Carpathians festival is a wine lover’s paradise, boasting a distinctive ambience and offering an excellent opportunity to get under the skin of Slovakian winemaking traditions.

The town of Svätý Jur, whose wine-related history dates back to the beginning of the 13th century, sets the stage for this celebration of the local region’s exceptional wines and cuisine. The vineyards, which are the most extensive in the Small Carpathian wine region, reaching right up to the town’s fortifications, reflect a terroir that’s particularly well suited to Riesling, imparting a distinctive mineral character to the wines.

In the Small Carpathians wine region, the slopes of the foothills, predominantly composed of granite and other volcanic rocks mixed with areas of sandy soil, provide an ideal environment for nurturing resilient vines. With most of the slopes facing in a southerly direction, the often terraced vineyards are regularly bathed in sunlight, ensuring regular ripening. While white wines tend to dominate, the region also produces some characterful cool-climate reds.

The brainchild of nine local producers, the festival’s set-up enables visitors to explore wineries via a shuttle bus, engaging directly with winemakers and savouring local wine, food and art, with immersive programmes that range from musical performances to cellar tours. Start by exploring the wine towns and villages of Svätý Jur, Modra, Pezinok, Šenkvice, Dol’any and Suchá nad Parnou.

Today, at least 38 wineries participate in the festival, each showcasing something of its own, whether it’s a distinctive grape variety, a modern winemaking technique or a traditional family recipe. Viajur winery, situated in Svätý Jur’s historic and recently rebuilt Pálffy manor house, is a must-visit, especially if you are in search of local history and culture. The winery masterfully revives the Habsburg culture, echoing the times of the Austro-Hungarian Empire with its outstanding architecture and an impressive art collection. Terra Parna winery, in Suchá nad Parnou, is another highlight, offering a fusion of tradition and modernity, the newly built winery nestled among 3.5ha of vineyards.

The festival also provides a platform for local artisans to showcase their work – from traditional crafts to contemporary art – while local chefs are on hand to serve up a delectable array of dishes that complement the region’s wines with aplomb.

Riesling poured with plates at Arte restaurant, Pálffy manor house

Accommodation: The Pálffy manor house, parts of which are thought to date back as far as the 13th century, has a number of well-appointed rooms.

Dining: The manor house also has two dining options: the Arte restaurant, which offers a choice of two tasting menus; and the elegant Habsburgs Lounge, where you can sample Austro-Hungarian cuisine surrounded by portraits of members of the Habsburg dynasty.

Nearest airport: Bratislava – the festival is roughly 30 minutes by car from the airport.

Romania

Past Rovinhud Wine Show speaker (and DWWA Regional Chair for Provence) Rod Smith MW

Rovinhud Wine Show

Event date: 15-17 November

This Romanian wine fair is held in Timișoara, a pretty little boulevard city rich in heritage. Indeed, it was one of three cities given the title of European Capital of Culture in 2023. Advocating inclusion and equality, while supporting a humanitarian foundation, this is more than just another wine event. The charity behind the scenes is Ceva de Spus, an organisation committed to championing the rights of disabled children and young adults living in impoverished conditions, which remains a persistent problem in Romania. In 2023, the event raised €57,500.

Held over three days, the Rovinhud show features at least 100 wineries from across the country, providing an excellent opportunity to explore Romania’s diverse wine scene. Apart from great wines, the fair also features masterclasses presented by internationally recognised wine experts. Past speakers at the event have included Jancis Robinson MW OBE, Julia Harding MW, Caroline Gilby MW, Yiannis Karakasis MW, Elizabeth Gabay MW, Dr José Vouillamoz and Rod Smith MW, to name but a few.

Among the wineries to look out for at the festival are Balla Geza for its championing of indigenous grapes and smart use of oak; Agape, which represents the modern face of Romanian winemaking, masterfully blending art and terroir; father and son outfit Crama Aramic for easy-drinking wines; Nachbil for something deliciously unique and organically farmed; and Cramele Recas, Romania’s largest and most prominent wine exporter, for consistently outstanding quality.

The late 1930s-built Timișoara Romanian Orthodox cathedral and the night lights of the city centre. Credit: Adrian-Catalin Lazar / Alamy Stock Photo

Accommodation: Atlas Hotel Timișoara, a boutique hotel located within walking distance of the festival.

Dining: The aptly named Restaurant Merlot, located in the historic Neptune Palace near Decebal bridge offers a calm and relaxing atmosphere, serving high-end European and fusion cuisines.

Nearest airport: Timișoara – the venue is a 15-minute car ride from the airport; public transport links are available.

Poland

Tourist crowds in Castle Square, central Warsaw. Credit: Aliaksandr Mazurkevich / Alamy Stock Photo

Warsaw Wine Experience

Event date: 17-18 November

Email: er@winicjatywa.pl

Forget vodka! Poland is home to more than 400 wineries producing an impressive total of two million bottles a year. The country’s increasingly diverse wine landscape stretches across all 16 of its administrative regions. And despite the cooler climate, Polish vineyards, including those along the Baltic sea coast near Szczecin, are thriving. From a small start – in the 2009-2010 season, just 21 vineyards declared their intent to release wine – the value of the country’s wine market is growing by roughly 10% per year.

From innovative PIWI vines (hybrid varieties resistant to threats such as parasites, fungi or frost) to ingenious varieties such as Solaris, Rondo and Regent, and on to the more familiar Riesling and Merlot, Poland’s vinous offerings cover a broad spectrum of styles and may soon rival the diversity of cool-climate peers such as England and Belgium. And, with lower land prices and production costs than Western counterparts, larger wineries offer very competitive prices.

The annual Warsaw Wine Experience offers visitors a deep dive into the world of Polish and international wine. The event, which took place for the first time in 2019 and is held each October in the heart of Poland’s vibrant capital city Warsaw, is about much more than just wine tasting, offering a comprehensive wine education experience through a mix of seminars, workshops and masterclasses. However, there’s plenty of wine tasting to be done as well, with more than 150 exhibitors showing a mix of local wines and bottles from as far away as China and beyond.

Restauracja Future & Wine

Accommodation: The elegant and sophisticated Nobu hotel hosted the Warsaw event in 2023. It’s conveniently located in the heart of the city’s residential district, which is graced with gorgeous pre-war buildings as well as stores, food halls and galleries.

Dining: The award-winning Restauracja Future & Wine, located 12 minutes’ walk from the event, combines elements of Polish and wider European cuisine.

Nearest airport: Warsaw Chopin – the wine festival is a 10-minute car ride away.

Hungary

The Borfesztivál outside the newly reconstructed Királyi Lovarda royal riding hall, completed in 2021. Credit: Szigetváry Zsolt

Budapest Borfesztivál

Event date: 12-15 September

Hungary’s wine offering is a rich tapestry, ranging from the luscious Tokaji Aszú to the rich reds of Eger and Villány via a vast collection of unusual grape varieties, including Furmint, Kadarka and Kékfrankos – just three of 97 white and 40 red varieties officially grown for wine in the country.

varieties officially grown for wine in the country. The Budapest Wine Festival is the perfect occasion for English-speakers to capture the essence of Hungary’s wines. The festival, now in its 33rd edition, began in 1992 with just a few hundred attendees but currently attracts more than 10,000 wine and food enthusiasts. It’s one of Central Europe’s most beautiful outdoor wine events, where attendees are invited to taste award-winning Hungarian and international wines. Special guests from lesser-known regions (such as South America in 2023) add variety to the wine offerings.

Beyond wine (bor in Hungarian, hence the name), the festival offers attendees a culinary adventure in the Chef Market Gourmet Food Court, which features everything from street food to Michelin-starred restaurant pop-ups and local specialities. There is also a range of concerts, cultural programmes and interactive workshops.

Credit: Wellyou.hu

Accommodation: Baltazár Boutique Hotel, or Buda Castle Fashion Hotel, each a 10-minute walk from the festival.

Dining: Michelin one-star Borkonyha Winekitchen, whose award-winning wine list features a mix of Hungary’s best-known and more obscure offerings, as well as international classics, with numerous by-the-glass options. Tasting menu and premium wine pairing available.  Or N28, a must for foodies and wine lovers – owned by two winemakers, this consistently well-reviewed restaurant is a hidden gem in the middle of downtown Pest, right in the city centre.

Nearest airport: Liszt Ferenc – the festival is a roughly 45-minute car journey from the airport.

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Here are seven Bordeaux properties that share their passion for art and their wine all year long – addresses art lovers should not miss.

1) The Pioneer

Château Mouton Rothschild is famous for bringing art and wine together with their prized bottles featuring labels painted and designed by famous artists.

Baron Philippe introduced the idea for the 1924 vintage, which was the first time a commercial artist was commissioned to create a wine label.  The artwork by poster artist Jean Carlu was printed on the label but as it was not well received, the project was shelved until 1945 when he once again commissioned an artist to create a commemorative label to mark the end of the war – Philippe Jullian ‘The Year of Victory’.

The estate has since invited a different artist to create a label for every new vintage. In 1958 it was Salvador Dalí, 1973: Pablo Picasso, 1990: Francis Bacon and 2014: David Hockney.

With the opening of Mouton Rothschild’s majestic new cellars in 2013, art lovers can visit the ‘Painting for the Labels’ exhibition that brings together all the original artworks for the labels with the explanation behind the inspiration. Often different art works proposed by each artist are also on show.

Scottish artist Peter Doig was chosen to illustrate the label of its 2020 vintage with a work that subtly pays tribute to the vineyard workers.

For the 2021 label, Japanese artist Chiharu Shiota was chosen and created a work named ‘Universe of Mouton’.

For more information visit: chateau-mouton-rothschild.com

The 1975 vintage label of Château Mouton Rothschild by Andy Warhol. Credit: Château Mouton Rothschild

2) Contemporary

There’s a light-hearted introduction to art as soon as you arrive at Château de Ferrand in St-Emilion. A huge sculpture of a chewed pen top by Julien Gudéa welcomes you to the property.

Owned by the Bich family, creators of the Bic pens, razors and so much more, over 30 works from their private Bic Art collection are shown at the property, all inspired by or created with Bic pens and ink.

The walls of the estate’s tasting room feature a mural created with a BIC ballpoint pen by artist Alexandre Doucin depicting the surrounding landscapes.

For more information visit: chateadeferrand.com

Credit: Château de Ferrand

3) Famous names

Château Malromé, in the south of the Entre-deux-Mers, has changed its name to Château Toulouse-Lautrec-Malromé reflecting its artistic history. In 1883, this 43 ha estate in the commune Saint-André-du-Bois was purchased by the Comtesse Adèle de Toulouse-Lautrec and became home to its most famous resident, her son, the painter Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec.

In 2013, the Huynh family bought the vineyard and completely renovated the cellars and the château, opening a restaurant and guest rooms. To mark the name change, a tour and exhibition takes visitors back in time to discover the links between wine and the famous works of the artist. His original 19th century apartments have been perfectly preserved for visitors to discover his life at the château, including private evening visits and dinners, with wine of course.

For more information visit: chateautoulouslautrec.com

Credit: Château Toulouse-Lautrec-Malromé / www.oliverfritze.com

4) Back to nature

At Château Smith Haut Lafitte, owners Florence and Daniel Cathiard, share their eclectic array of 27 sculptures in the vines and the château. The collection has been growing ever since they purchased the classified growth of the Graves in 1990.

Three emblematic pieces are; the Venus overlooking the vineyard, a signature bronze hare ‘Hospitality’ by Barry Flanagan, appropriately placed in front of the five-star hotel Les Sources de Caudalie, and W.A de Wang DU represents a crumpled newspaper embodying the ambiguity and ephemeral nature of contemporary media. Look closely, the paper just happens to be a page from the Wine Advocate.

In 2017, they opened a 10ha open air museum; The Forest of the Five Senses which includes a land and art trail  ‘Land Art’ installation hidden in the woods between Château Smith Haut Lafitte and neighbouring Château Le Thil, part of Les Sources de Caudalie.

A showcase for both young artists and the importance of nature, it includes contemporary artworks and sound installations, mainly by local Bordeaux artists. Pieces include ‘The Vortex’ by Durante and Segond, a giant spider web of stainless steel hanging between two trees as well as well as an ear trumpet over a stream that amplifies the sounds of bubbling water. There’s also a nod towards the Cathiards’ past ski champion career with Gulliver’s Skis by Cyrille Menei.

For more information visit: smith-haut-lafitte.com

Château Smith Haut Lafitte’s Forest of the Five Senses art path. Credit: www.visitfrenchwine.com

5) Integration

A striking example of a permanent art show in the Médoc is Château d’Arsac, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur in Margaux. In the 19th century it was one of the largest Médoc estates, with 250ha of vines. When Philippe Raoux purchased it in 1986, it was in ruins with only 3ha in production. Everything needed rebuilding.

The inspiration behind linking wine, vines and art came from a visit by The Peter Stuyvesant Foundation. Together they organised an art festival and the 1989 harvest was brought in under the watchful eye of works of art. They continued these art festivals until 1996.

In 1992, Arsac started curating its own contemporary collection. It has grown with the vineyard and now counts 30 pieces. The vines fund the art, each vintage sees a new work inspired by an event or idea at the estate.

The oversized flowerpot ‘Le Pot Rouge’ by Raynaud, represents the vineyard as a vine garden. In 2002, the artist Jean-Michel Folon, stayed at the estate and the picture he drew in the visitors’ book is now reproduced as a mural in the barrel cellar.

In 1995, the vineyard was promoted to the Margaux appellation, the purchase of French sculptor Bernard Pagès’ ‘La Déjetée’ symbolises this upward trajectory, of the property. Whereas ‘La Diagonale’, a large metal girder resting on the chateau, illustrates the continual ‘work in progress’ to constantly improve the vineyard and the wines.

In 2021, they introduced a new art form. ‘Si Arsac m’était chanté’ is a light hearted musical visit – 11 different ‘tableaux’ and a film projected in the wine making and barrel cellars take you on a magical mystery tour of art and the art of wine.

For more information visit: chateau-arsac.com

Credit: Château d’Arsac

6) Château Chasse Spleen

Céline Villars-Foubet and her husband Jean-Pierre took over this family property in 2000. Passionate about art, in 2017, they opened a contemporary art centre in the elegant 18th century ‘chartreuse’ to share art alongside their wines. Permanent works include those by; Felice Varini, Benoit Maire, Liam Gillick Patrick Neu, Morgane Tschiember, Vincent Ganivet, Pierre Labat, Anita Molinero, Guzman and Paeve, Ann Veronica Janssens and Lilian Bourgeat. Céline is an architect and landscaper, and the site reflects this with the water mirror running through the park and the impressive giant wellington boots that welcome you as you drive up to the château.

Just like a vintage, every year is a new story, hosting the works of a different artist alongside their private collection. There’s a wine bar on the terrace and three guests rooms should art and wine fans want to linger.

The art centre is open from Thursdays to Mondays (open during public holidays) 11 am to 6pm. Entry is free.

For more information visit: art.chasse-spleen.com.

Château Chasse-Spleen’s Centre d’Art. Credit: Château Chasse-Spleen

7) Bordeaux city

Château Labottière is a beautiful 18th century neoclassical house right in the centre of Bordeaux city. It may not produce wine but it is owned by Bernard Magrez, French wine magnate with more than 40 vineyards across Bordeaux and the world.

Restored in 2011, this classified monument is home to the Bernard Magrez Cultural Institute, a platform for artists in residence, exhibitions of contemporary art and workshops for artists and future artists, young and old.

The current exhibit is called ‘La Beauté Sauvera le Monde’ – Beauty Will Save The World. It is a dialogue between artists and iconic works from the beginning of the 20th to the end of the 21st century including those by Yang Yongliang , Philippe Cognée, Rancinan, Livio Bendetti, Dan Hays , Pae White, Xavier Veilhan, Barthi Kher, Moataz Nasr, Paul Almasy, Jean-François Rauzier and many others. Curation was carried out by the Cultural Institute in partnership with Audry Liseron-Monfils, director of the Ecole des Beaux-Arts Bordeaux.

For more information visit: institut-bernard-magrez.com.

The work of Jofo will be on display at Bernard Magrez this summer. Credit: www.en.institut-bernard-magrez

Planning ahead for 2024

The third edition of the BAD+ Art fair which takes place in Hanger 14 on the Bordeaux quay returns again in 2024 from May to June.

As well as housing the contemporary art and design exhibition in Bordeaux city, last year it also partnered with châteaux spanning the Left and Right Banks to spread art from the city into the vines. Last year’s participating estates included;

• Château Chasse-Spleen, Château d’Arsac and Château Lynch-Bages in the Médoc,
• Château Smith Haut Lafitte and Château Pape Clément in the Graves,
• Château Fleur de Lisse, Château des Laurets in Puisseguin-St-Émilion and Château de Ferrand in St-Emilion.

Credit: BAD+ Art fair

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Neighbouring capital cities such as Copenhagen and Stockholm may have grabbed the spotlight earlier, but Helsinki has quietly gone about honing its culinary craft, while also developing a taste for good wine. The city’s restaurants have embraced the Nordic-cuisine ethos of simplicity, local ingredients and sustainability. Finland’s forests and pristine waters offer a bounty that runs the gamut from wild mushrooms and berries to fresh fish and game meats, all of which find their way onto Helsinki’s plates.

Finns, many of whom are first-generation wine drinkers, have learned to appreciate wine. This transformation is not only due to the tireless work of sommeliers, but also enthusiastic importers who have played a pivotal role in fostering the growth of a diverse wine scene.

Finland has strict alcohol laws, so there is no ‘bring your own’. Travellers seeking to purchase a bottle of wine to go are limited to the government-controlled monopoly Alko, which has hundreds of shops scattered across the country.

Credit: Maggie Nelson

In Helsinki, wine lists are typically compact and focused on Europe. More and more places are offering a good selection of wines by the glass and, in keeping with international trends, there is a growing interest in natural wines made by small artisanal producers, which feature prominently on the lists of many bars located in the hip neighbourhoods outside the more-mainstream city centre.

Summer is a popular time to visit Finland, but if you’re eager to get acquainted with the local culinary scene, you should note that between late June and mid-August, many restaurants close their doors so their staff can take a holiday. (It’s also worth noting that most establishments are closed on Sundays and Mondays – and many are also closed on Tuesdays.) Better to come in spring, as Helsinki is emerging from its long winter slumber and the city blooms with vibrant hues.

Bar Petiit

Suvannontie 17

The aptly named Bar Petiit is a small wine bar located in Puu-Vallila, a wooden-house district 20 minutes by tram from downtown Helsinki. Owner Henri Bäckman, a local trailblazer in organic, biodynamic and natural wines, curates a delightful selection, together with Julius Saari, that caters to wine lovers seeking something unique. Showcasing small-scale producers such as Sicily’s Frank Cornelissen and Martin & Anna Arndorfer in Austria, the bar attracts a trendy crowd with an appreciation for both good music and quirky but delectable wines. There’s no wine list as such – bottles of the available wines hang on the wall for all to see. The bar doesn’t offer a food menu either; however, the charming restaurant Plein conveniently resides just across the street if you’re feeling peckish. @petiitbar

BasBas Kulma

Tehtaankatu 27-29

Opened in November 2015 by the dynamic duo of Nicolas Thieulon and Kalle Kiukainen, Baskeri & Basso Bistro (or just BasBas, as the locals call it) has been a game-changer in the Helsinki dining scene since its inception. BasBas Kulma, the acclaimed bistro’s younger sibling, offers a more approachable experience for those who find the original too elusive (it’s notoriously difficult to secure a table). Nestled in the same building as its big brother, BasBas Kulma is essentially a bistro, too, but with a bar counter where walk-ins can order small plates and choose from a dozen or so wines available by the glass, priced from about €11 to €16. The Europe-focused wine list features selections from numerous small artisanal wineries and vignerons, including a good number of natural wines. Despite all of the interesting wines, it’s the warm service that keeps people coming back for more.

Café Savoy

Eteläesplanadi 14

Credit: Anton Sucksdorff / Cafe Savoy

Café Savoy, the southern France-inspired offspring of the inimitable Savoy restaurant, with which it shares a building, became an instant classic when it debuted in 2022. While its unapologetically Europe-only wine list is more compact than Savoy’s extensive offering, it still runs to some 250 or more different wines, with prices ranging from €55 to €3,995. In case that isn’t enough, diners also have access to the big brother’s cellar, bringing it to a combined collection of more than 1,000 labels. For those with a predilection for natural wines, the extended list provides a reliable port in a storm. ‘We don’t tolerate wines that taste like mousy cabbage soup, but we do have top producers in every category, such as Domaine Prieuré Roch,’ says Savoy head sommelier Aleksi Mehtonen. The café features a small bar that overlooks the bustling kitchen – the perfect spot for an aperitif.

Grape Wine Bar

Uudenmaankatu 13

Credit: Grape Wine Bar

Located in Helsinki’s vibrant Punavuori district, Grape Wine Bar is a welcome breath of fresh air in the Finnish wine scene. The cosy, narrow room creates an intimate setting where wine lovers can explore a range of offerings from the refreshingly uncomplicated, ever-changing selection, which is all about wines that bring pleasure to both the
staff and thirsty visitors alike without delving too deeply into complex philosophies; don’t expect debates on regenerative farming here. The bar menu offers snacking options such as boquerones, charcuterie and scampi, to accompany the wine. Unusually for Helsinki, the bar is open on Sundays, when the menu switches to its Slow Sundays all-day brunch, an invitation to savour both food and wine in a relaxed atmosphere.

Muru Wine Bar

Lönnrotinkatu 14

Credit: Muru Wine Bar

A must-visit for both novices and heavy-hitters alike, Muru Wine Bar stands as a testament to Helsinki’s evolving wine culture, thanks in no small part to sommelier Samuil Angelov. With a wine list that runs to more than 750 labels, the bar places an emphasis on education. On Wednesdays, there’s a blind tasting of three different wines for €15 per person; Thursdays are dedicated to Champagne, showcasing a ‘special bottle’; Fridays see the opening of a ‘legendary and iconic’ wine; and on Saturdays, customers can take part in a more immersive, hour-plus-long tutored tasting (in both Finnish and English). A Coravin system grants the rare opportunity to savour wines such as Domaine Taupenot-Merme’s Corton Rognet Grand Cru by the glass. Pair these delights with Muru Wine Bar’s celebrated risotto for sustenance, or venture around the corner to Restaurant Muru for a more comprehensive dining experience.

Viinibaari Apotek

Lapinlahdenkatu 1

Credit: Viinibaari Apotek

As its name suggests, Apotek Wine Bar resides within a former pharmacy, now transformed into an enchanting spot to enjoy one of the world’s oldest remedies: wine. The Jugendstil interior (think Art Nouveau), all original wood panelling, drawers and cabinets, exudes a timeless charm and sets the stage for a memorable wine experience. The bar is dedicated to serving mostly organic wines from family-owned producers, with a focus on grower Champagnes, German Rieslings and Burgundies, many of which have been imported by a private agency owned by its parent company. Walk-ins are warmly welcomed and there’s a frequently changing line-up of wines available by the glass, so each visit promises something new to discover.

Vinkkeli

Pieni Roobertinkatu 8

Credit: Vinkkeli

Vinkkeli skilfully marries the essence of seasonal Nordic cuisine with contemporary French flair. At the helm, renowned sommelier (and owner) Antti Uusitalo has curated an impressive wine list that predominantly features classic selections from France, Italy, Germany and Spain. Whether you’re looking for Castillo Ygay or the opulence of Château d’Yquem, Vinkkeli has you covered. There’s also a weekly changing array of wines tailored to complement its four-course dinner menu. For those seeking a more casual rendezvous, Vinkkeli also boasts a small bar, perfect for savouring something from the daily selection of seasonal wines offered by the glass. The harmonious fusion of culinary traditions and stellar service ensures Vinkkeli’s enduring appeal among Helsinki residents. It’s also a good choice if you’re looking for a vinous lunch on a Monday.

Wino

Fleminginkatu 11

Credit: Ida Syvaniemi / Wino

Located in the heart of Kallio, a former working-class neighbourhood once synonymous with rowdy nightlife and dive bars, Wino stands out – a charming wine bistro that has firmly established itself as a local favourite. The focus is mainly on European natural wines, but the extensive Champagne and Burgundy selection ensures that there’s something for everyone. The wine list features about 200 labels and a rotating selection by the glass. Look out for unusual bottlings such as the 100% Pinot Meunier Arietis from Champagne Alexis in Troissy. The eclectic food menu places a strong emphasis on seasonal, organic produce that effortlessly complements the wine selection. The mood here is cosy and inviting, making Wino equally suitable for long, wine-soaked dinners and casual evenings at the bar.

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There’s a good reason why Kent is described as the Garden of England. With much of it edged by the sea, stretching from the Thames Estuary all the way round to the English Channel, you’ll find a verdant landscape of rolling hills, blossom-filled orchards, white-cowled oast houses (hop kilns), and timbered villages with tile-hung cottages. Thanks to its eastern location, Kent gets more sunshine and higher temperatures than much of the UK, which explains why it’s famous for its fruit.

These days, of course, there’s another crop grabbing the headlines – grapes. Make way for the Wine Garden of England.

In fact, this is the very name chosen by a ‘friendly collective’ of Kent winemakers who have got together to tell the world about this fast-changing corner of southeastern England – namely Gusbourne, Chapel Down, Simpsons’ Wine Estate, Domaine Evremond, Biddenden, Squerryes, Balfour and Westwell.

Drive down the M20 today and you would be forgiven for thinking you were in the Champagne region, with row upon row of vines shimmering in the breeze on south-facing chalky slopes.

Last year (2023) provided a bumper crop in a near-perfect year, which should help producers keep up with demand. Restaurants from Manhattan to Tokyo are eager to list English wines and those closer to home continue to fight over allocations – which can be a problem for the wine tourist, as we found out – with limited supplies on Kent restaurant wine lists.

The output of the UK wine industry might still be small fry compared with other wine-producing counties, but it has come a long way fast since its first commercial vineyard –  Hambledon – was planted in Hampshire in 1952, winning high-profile awards and trophies mainly for its sparkling wines, fuelling some serious investment in land.

Add to that the continuing interest from Champagne brands, including Taittinger, who established Domaine Evremond near Faversham in Kent with UK partner Hatch Mansfield. The state-of-the-art visitor centre is now well underway and the release of the first vintage is expected later in 2024.

Getting around the Wine Garden of England

It makes sense to start your tour of Kent wineries at Squerryes near Westerham, just a 10-minute drive from the outer reaches of Greater London, and within rumbling distance of the M25.

With its winery, craft brewery, notable restaurant, Garden Café, newly expanded deli and farm shop as well as Saturday market, it’s beginning to look a lot like California. The 300-year-old estate is run by eighth-generation family member Henry Warde, who tells how a prestigious Champagne house came calling back in 2004 talking of perfect conditions and partnerships, and how in the end they decided to do it themselves. ‘Their confidence gave us the confidence,’ he shrugs, pouring tasting samples of his sparkling wine, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier made from the estate’s own grapes.

Jump back on the A21 and push on deeper into Kent, making time if you can for a stop at the historic spa town of Royal Tunbridge Wells, with its collonaded Pantiles, before continuing to Staplehurst, where you’ll find Balfour Winery.

Owner Richard Balfour-Lynn has pumped enough cash into the winery to more than triple capacity and has recently expanded its visitor centre with two new tasting rooms. Add to that a busy restaurant, numerous events on offer, plus a vast wooden deck that shouts summer weddings.

It’s surrounded by more than 50ha of vineyards, ringed by ancient woodlands, which you can wander through aided by a free map before grabbing a table and tasting through the range of wines, including a delicious biscuity, leesy 2018 Blanc de Blancs, now available in magnum.

Next stop, Chapel Down: one of the UK’s largest wine producers, which now owns, leases and sources from more than 400ha, of which 300ha are fully productive. Take in the ranks of gleaming tanks and presses and peruse the winery shop complete with deli counter stocked with local products. Add to that a range of winery experiences and on-site two AA rosette-restaurant, The Swan, and you really could be in Napa. Chapel Down has also been granted permission to build a new winery at Canterbury Business Park, and aims to be producing 6 million bottles per year by 2032.

Chapel Down’s Kit’s Coty vineyard lies on the edge of the North Downs near Aylesford. Credit: Chris Gale

Not so at nearby Biddenden Vineyards, this year celebrating its 55th anniversary and clearly not chasing the Champagne dream. With its flower-filled hanging baskets and cider fermenting away in outdoor tanks next to the winery, it offers a more traditional experience, as visitors enjoy a range of crowd-pleasing wines including the sweetest wine ever made in England, a late harvest Ortega from the 2018 vintage. And then bam, we’re back in California again with Gusbourne’s sleek, recently expanded visitor centre, The Nest.

You can smell the sea in Gusbourne’s vineyards, located on a hill not far from the must-visit medieval coastal town of Rye. Since Conservative tycoon Lord Ashcroft came on board as a majority shareholder in 2013, he has injected millions in cash, which has expanded the business substantially. The vintage fizz is where it’s at, with the impressively creamy, lemony, late disgorged 2013 Blanc de Blancs a standout, and which can be sampled in a tutored tasting if booked ahead.

Simpsons’ Wine Estate, in the picturesque village of Barham just outside Canterbury, entertains locals and visitors alike with its hook-ups with local restaurants and Friday night Sunset Session tours. Owners Charles and Ruth Simpson also own Domaine Sainte Rose in the Languedoc, but have been scooping up awards for their English sparkling wines. Notably, the 2018 The Roman Road Chardonnay won Best in Show at the 2020 Decanter World Wine Awards.

Westwell is the latest winery to join the Wine Garden of England club, in 2022. Found on the Pilgrims’ Way near Charing, 10 minutes from Ashford, it’s managed by head winemaker Adrian Pike, who is well known for his experimental winemaking (his pét-nat is currently de rigueur in East London eateries). Every vintage there’s something new, alongside the flagship sparkling wine Pelegrim (which means pilgrim in Middle English). There is a strong focus on sustainability here with minimal intervention in the winery, all of which you can see on tours which finish with a tasting in the rustic but uber-cool tasting room, where pizza nights and open-air cinema rule.

Balfour Winery’s bluebell-covered ancient oak woodland. Credit: Sylvia Wu

Your Kent address book

Accommodation and dining

Boys Hall

Built by aristocrat Thomas Boys in the 17th century and recently revamped, this cosy yet impressive restaurant with nine bedrooms showcases the best the region has to offer. Co-owner Brad Lomas has amassed an impressive selection of some of Kent’s finest wines.

The Bridge Arms 

The latest opening from the owners of the nearby Michelin one-star Fordwich Arms, The Bridge Arms is also making waves, part of a new generation of gastro pubs that are turning heads thanks to ex-Clove Club chef and co-owner, Daniel Smith.

The Lighthouse Champagne Bar 

There are a bunch of new bars and restaurants on Folkestone Harbour Arm that stock English wine, but the Lighthouse Champagne Bar bags the best spot, with sweeping views along the coast and of the town itself. Enjoy oysters and savoury crêpes with a line-up of English fizz, including the Blanc de Blancs from Simpsons’ Wine Estate.

The Pig at Bridge Place

A few miles southeast of Canterbury in the charming village of Bridge sits this old building with a rock-n-roll vibe (Led Zeppelin once played here). Think secret stairways, panelled rooms, and hidden nooks, plus The Pig’s trademark kitchen garden-led menus and a fine selection of English wines.

The Swan at Chapel Down

Arguably the country’s most ambitious winery restaurant, this snazzy 80-seater, with a smart wine shop and deli below, offers a chef’s table and an outdoor terrace overlooking the vineyards and delivers sophisticated, well-executed cooking.

The Sportsman

A 20-minute drive from Domaine Evremond’s vineyards, this unlikely destination restaurant in what looks like a local boozer delivers the kind of cooking most of us only dream about – locally sourced ingredients, some of it homegrown, cooked to perfection by charismatic chef-owner Stephen Harris.

The West House Restaurant with Rooms

Located behind the 16th-century weaver’s cottage with its Michelin-starred cooking in sleepy Biddenden, it offers four stylish bedrooms each with a different theme. ‘Scandi’ is a favourite, though there’s fun to be had in the ‘Rock ‘N’ Roll’.

Shops

Corkk Wines

In the centre of historic Canterbury, you’ll find a wine shop owned and run by Jonathan Piggins and Clive Barlow MW. They have an extensive selection of Kent wines and regularly run tasting events and courses to educate and entertain their guests. This is the perfect place to taste several different wines in one visit.

Macknade Food Hall

Two minutes drive from the M2, on the outskirts of medieval Faversham, this is a food hall to beat them all with a family history that dates back over 170 years, celebrating the best of Kent produce and beyond.

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Launched during the pandemic by family-owned wine company González Byass, the world’s first ‘Sherry hotel’ encompasses a collection of former cellar-worker cottages in the Old Town, and practically overlooks the 180-year-old Tío Pepe winery.

Nearby wineries and the city’s main sites attract guests all year round. You’ll find the ornate 17th-century grand cathedral opposite the hotel and the 11th-/12th-century Moorish alcázar fortress just down the street. A five-minute amble brings you to Jerez’s main thoroughfares packed with shops, restaurants, tapas bars and tabancos, the city’s hyper-local taverns known for Sherry served from casks. To dial into the rhythm of Jerez, catch a fiery flamenco show in the evening.

Balancing space, light and art

With the main staircase as a focal point, the property’s guest rooms, suites and communal areas are dispersed around romantic terraces and courtyards. High ceilings, graceful arches, organic textiles and whitewashed walls create space and light in the 27 elegantly appointed rooms.

Rooms range in size and view, with a few boasting private balconies and suites offering separate lounges: all feature original beamed ceilings, antique furniture and hand-selected artworks. Within the roomy bathrooms, you can rinse off the day’s heat in your walk-in rain shower and rehydrate parched skin with organic toiletries from Spanish brand Uvas Frescas. The beautifully manicured grounds feature a fountain surrounded by colourful bougainvillaeas and glossy-leaved orange trees.

On the roof, an expansive terrace replete with loungers and a dipping pool beckons guests from day to night. Potted banana palms accent the space, along with a handful of slingback chairs, umbrellas and tables. At sunset, staff man the bar, pouring Sherry, cocktails and wine while a live musician strums a Spanish guitar to complete the dreamy setting.

If you’re bent on fitness beyond city strolls, a compact gym off the rooftop should do the trick. You’ll find cardio equipment, free weights and mats for stretching and yoga.

For additional needs, ask the helpful staff at the front desk, which is open 24 hours a day. They’re happy to arrange on-site massages, restaurant reservations and tastings at Tío Pepe and nearby bodegas.

Wine and gastronomy

In the land of Andalucían cuisine, the restaurant’s gastronomic flair and deep wine cellar shine. Thanks to chef Alejandro Bazán, the hotel restaurant Pedro Nolasco holds its own in flavour and freshness against the city’s heavyweight newcomers, each with a Michelin star, Mantúa and Lú Cocina y Alma.

On a clear night, you’ll want a table on the terrace overlooking the cathedral. Start with a glass of Tres Palmas fino and a platter of glistening Jamón Ibérico de Bellota, or acorn-fed Iberian ham. Under the ‘life is sharing’ menu, try crunchy prawns with a perfectly poached egg wrapped in razor-thin pork jowl. Pork enthusiasts should carry on with a main dish of cochinillo asado or roast suckling pig in a mango-spiked sweet and sour palo cortado sauce. Otherwise, the gently charred octopus offers a taste of the nearby Gulf of Cadiz.

In the morning, the hotel serves breakfast in Pedro Nolasco’s quiet, leafy gardens. The menu includes coffee, freshly-squeezed orange juice, eggs cooked to order, local pastries and mollete bread paired with jamón and local cheese.

Save one afternoon for a winery tour, whether the introductory experience, a technical tasting or an in-depth look at VORS. Founded in 1835, Bodegas Tío Pepe remains one of Spain’s most prestigious Sherry wineries. To get there, look for the mural of the brand’s icon – a fino bottle donning a tilted red hat, jacket and guitar – which marks the trellised corridor. The basic tour ends with two glasses of Sherry and the lingering question of when you’ll return to Jerez.

For more information, visit Hotel Bodega Tío Pepe

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