Is salmon on the menu tonight? Whether you’re cooking at home or eating out, salmon is a versatile ingredient that can be cooked in several different ways. Think poached, grilled, seared, barbecued or smoked to name but a few – and it can even be enjoyed raw in sushi and sashimi.

But what wines should you pair with salmon? There’s an array of grapes and wine styles that will happily match salmon; from crisp whites and sparkling wines to elegant rosés and light reds. It all depends on how the salmon is prepared, as this will influence both the texture and flavour of the fish.

The table below gives a quick guide to some reliable pairings, but the list is by no means exhaustive. Read on for more tips and ideas…

Styles to choose when pairing wine with salmon:

What to drink with smoked salmon

Credit: ahirao_photo / iStock / Getty Images Plus

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From canapés and light summer lunches, to Christmas mornings and Scandinavian gravlax, quality smoked salmon is a classic ingredient. Champagne makes a luxury match for smoked salmon; its high acidity cuts through the richness of the fish, while its bubbles refresh your palate. But French crémants can also do the same job at a more wallet-friendly price.

Other sparkling styles will work just as well. Consider Spain’s flagship fizz Cava or Tasmanian sparklers, as well as South Africa’s Cap Classique. Matthieu Longuère MS, wine development manager of Le Cordon Bleu London, suggests a vintage English sparkling wine wine with smoked salmon canapés. ‘Thanks to its high acidity, it should also handle the saltiness of smoked salmon,’ he says.

Sparkling wines made with Chardonnay in a blanc de blancs style, are a particularly good choice with smoked salmon. But Chardonnay is not the only go-to grape. ‘For a classic smoked salmon dish with onion, capers and a slice of lemon, a Riesling will be great,’ says Jolanta Dinnadge, wine buyer at The Biltmore Mayfair.

Meanwhile for smoked salmon served Scandi-style as gravlax, Austria’s Grüner Veltliner will be a winning match. Its fresh citrus and herbal notes will complement the dill, while a kick of white-pepper spice adds interest to the pairing.

What to drink with salmon and cream sauces

Credit: sandoclr / Getty Images

As with other fish dishes, a creamy sauce can be more of a wine pairing challenge than the main ingredient itself. You could choose a wine with brisk acidity to cut through the creaminess, or for a more subtle match choose a wine that has both fresh acidity and a touch of creaminess on the palate from oak or time on lees.

‘If the salmon is accompanied with butter and cream, you should go more for a Chardonnay with a bit of oak to highlight the fish,’ explains Wilfried Rique, formerly restaurant general manager at Hilton Hotels.

Greek Assyrtiko with its electrifying acidity, is a great foil for salmon in creamy sauces or salmon cooked in butter. An unoaked Chardonnay, such as Chablis is a reliable choice, so too bone-dry Muscadet from the Loire Valley. A pale pink Provence rosé can also work beautifully. 

What to drink with salmon and citrus flavours

Fish and citrus are often served together: think seared salmon fillet with a squeeze of fresh lemon. For me, Italian whites are a natural match here. As well as the ever-popular Pinot Grigio, look for grapes such as Vermentino, Fiano and Grillo, which makes fresh, lemony wines. Island whites from Sicily and Sardinia sometimes have a fresh salty tang that works well with simply grilled salmon too. 

Fresh whites from coastal wine regions are always a safe bet with fish and can naturally complement citrus flavours. Try Portuguese Vinho Verde, featuring the Alvarinho grape, or its Spanish cousin Albariño from Rías Baixas. 

If fresh herbs also feature in your citrus salmon dish, one other grape is a safe bet. ‘The minerality and herbaceous notes of a classic Sauvignon Blanc will match well with a salmon cooked with fine herbs and citrus,’ says Rique.

What to drink with spicy salmon

Credit: Carlo A / Getty Images

Pairing wine with spicy food doesn’t have to be tricky. This could mean salmon prepared with Japanese flavours such as wasabi and teriyaki sauces, as well as oriental spice combinations involving ginger and garlic.

‘We like to choose a Riesling from Germany or a Pinot Gris from Alsace to enhance the flavours of salmon cooked with some spices,’ advises Rique.

There are also spicy South American salmon dishes such as salmon tacos with jalapeño or vibrant salmon ceviche with chilli spice. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc will complement the zesty flavours of ceviche. It’s also a good choice for tacos, though Grüner Veltliner or an exotic Riesling would work too.

What to drink with salmon sushi

Mineral whites such as Chablis and Muscadet (see above) make a reliable – and classic – pairing with salmon sushi and sashimi. But don’t forget Japan’s signature grape Koshu as well. Its delicate, clean-fruited wines can perfectly complement the pure flavours of sushi.

‘For sushi, as it is a small bite, I would recommend a crispy and citrusy wine, such as a Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay,’ says Rique. ‘Sancerre is a good go-to as it balances well with the acidity of the salmon but has enough strength to match with the bold note of the rice.’

Meanwhile Natasha Hughes MW recommends fino and manzanilla with sushi and sashimi in her article on pairing Sherry with Eastern flavours.

Can you drink red wine with salmon?

While it’s a myth that red wine never matches with fish, it’s generally better to avoid bolder styles brimming with tannins. ‘An absolute no is to pair a full-bodied red wine with salmon as this will kill both the wine and the fish’s flavours,’ says Dinnadge. Opt for lighter styles such as Beaujolais and New World Pinot Noir.

High consumer demand means that farmed Atlantic salmon has become much more prevalent on dinner tables, and farmed varieties also tend to have a fattier texture than their wild cousins.

For seared salmon, and particularly farmed varieties, ‘the obvious choice is a chilled Pinot Noir’, says Beckett. ‘Pinot picks up perfectly on the richness of the fish and the caramelised crust,’ she explains.

This article has been fully updated in June 2024, including new wine reviews. It was originally published in 2019. 

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The food in my new book Michel Roux at Home is the food I eat with my family, particularly at my house in France. My family is from the north of France and Burgundy, where the cooking is rich in butter and cream, but these days I find myself gravitating to the food of the south, featuring olive oil and fresh fruit and vegetables. My home is in the south, in Ardèche, and that’s my style of cooking now.

Some people still see French food as fine dining, haute cuisine, but I want to show that French home cooking is very different from that and doesn’t have to be complicated. Like Italian cooking, it’s all about using good seasonal ingredients and letting them shine by not messing around with them too much. And that’s exactly what I do at home – I’m not into fuss or fancy frills.

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Spiced lamb shoulder with couscous

The inspiration for this dish comes from North African cooking and I use spices normally associated with tagines. The lamb does have to be marinated for up to two days and needs long, slow cooking, but you are rewarded with flavourful meat that’s falling off the bone. Perfect with the couscous and chickpeas.

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp dried oregano
• 1 lemon, quartered, pips removed
• 1 tsp salt
• 2 tsp ground black pepper
• 1 lamb shoulder
• 2 red onions, cut into wedges
• 1 litre pomegranate juice
• 200ml lamb or chicken stock
• 150g couscous
• 400g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
• 100g tub of pomegranate seeds, or seeds from 1 fresh pomegranate
• Small handful of mint leaves, chopped
• 100ml olive oil
• 2 tbsp clear honey
• 50ml lemon juice

Garnish: Extra pomegranate seeds and mint leaves

Method

1. Put the garlic, cinnamon, cumin, oregano and lemon quarters in a blender with the salt and black pepper, then blend until smooth. Put the lamb shoulder in a large roasting tin and tip the marinade over the top. Massage the marinade all over the lamb and leave it in the fridge for 24 hours or up to 2 days.
2. Remove the lamb from the fridge about an hour before cooking. Preheat the oven to 160°C. Scatter the onion wedges around the lamb, tucking some underneath, then pour
over the pomegranate juice and the stock. Cover the lamb with a piece of baking paper, then some foil and cook for 4 hours until the meat is nice and tender. Remove the lamb
from the oven and set it aside to rest. Reserve the cooking juices.
3. Put the couscous and chickpeas in a mixing bowl and add 300ml of the lamb cooking juices. Leave to stand until the couscous has absorbed all of the liquid, then break it up with a fork. Add the pomegranate seeds and mint leaves, and stir in the olive oil.
4. Drizzle the honey and lemon juice over the lamb, garnish with pomegranate seeds and mint leaves, and serve with the couscous and chickpeas.

Michel Roux at Home was published in August 2023 (£26 Seven Dials)

Michel Roux Jr is one of the world’s most respected chefs. Le Gavroche, which he ran from 1991 until it closed earlier this year, received recommendations for excellence in every food guide. His latest TV series Michel Roux’s Provence Masterclass first aired in March 2023 and is available to stream on Discovery+.

The wines to drink with spiced lamb shoulder with couscous

By Fiona Beckett

Even though the lamb is spiced, this is still a versatile dish to pair with wine. Normally I’d recommend a southern French Grenache-Syrah blend, but there are a couple of ingredients – the pomegranate juice and the honey – that will make the dish sweeter than you might imagine given the North African spicing, so I’d be tempted to look beyond that. Grenache on its own, particularly young Grenache, has a sweetness that should chime in nicely – there are great examples from Rioja and Navarra these days and, further afield, from South Africa and South Australia. Graciano-based Rioja with its exotic sweet edge should also work. I’m not sure this is a white wine dish, though you could try a Viognier or a Rhône-style Viognier blend – but I’m tempted by the idea of a dark rosé. Tavel would be the obvious candidate, but a Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo from Italy would be a fun summer choice. Or a big, ripe rosé from South Australia (thinking of Charles Melton’s fabulous Rose of Virginia).

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Born in Athens, Carolina Doriti has worked as a chef, recipe developer, restaurant consultant and food journalist, and is the culinary producer of the USA TV series My Greek Table, presented by Diane Kochilas. Carolina is also the Athens bureau chief for Culinary Backstreets, a company that runs gastronomy tours around the world.

I have lived most of my life in Athens, a city that blends and balances the ancient with the modern. This blend is how I experience this age-old culture’s cuisine. Its roots are ancient, its core has been preserved, yet over the years it has harmoniously developed and been touched by the course of history, from West and East. Over the last 20 years or
so, there has been a big turn towards traditional regional cooking and local artisanal products. The simplicity of traditional cuisine has been re-evaluated and appreciated further for its health benefits and respect for the ingredients that define it. Greek chefs are making their mark on the global culinary scene, winning awards for their creativity, and from high-end restaurants to simple tavernas, Greek cuisine is thriving.

This book is my offering to the history and heritage of Greek cuisine and culture, and I hope that it will help people to learn, share and enjoy the wonderment of what passionate home cooks and chefs in Greece have been privy to and revelling in for generations.

Artichoke & caper stuffed calamari

This is not a common or traditional recipe from any part of Greece; it is my own invention. I was inspired by the ways calamari is stuffed in Greece, often involving rice or just tomatoes and feta. The artichokes pair really well here with the herbs, as does the calamari with the tangy, citrussy sauce. When I have friends over and I wish to turn this dish into something more shareable, I slice them like sushi rolls; they are easier to eat that way, and also look beautiful. This is great with a good retsina.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

• 6 large calamari, each about 400g
• 3 tbsp olive oil
• 100ml dry white wine
• 100ml warm vegetable stock or water

For the filling

• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 5 spring onions (scallions), chopped
• 300g artichoke hearts, fresh or frozen, cut into small chunks
• 100ml dry white wine
• 1.5 tbsp lemon juice
• 150ml warm vegetable stock or water 50g cracked wheat
• 3 tbsp chopped dill
• 3 tbsp chopped parsley
• 2 tbsp capers (rinsed if salt-packed), roughly chopped
• finely grated zest of 1 small lemon
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the lemon & dill sauce

• 40ml lemon juice
• 125ml olive oil
• 1 tbsp chopped dill

Method

1. Wash and clean the calamari. Set aside in a colander to drain.
2. For the filling, place a large pan over a medium heat. Add the olive oil and sauté the onion for 6-7 minutes until soft and glossy. Add spring onions and artichokes, stir for a couple of minutes until the artichokes soften. Pour in the wine, wait for a minute or so, then add the lemon juice and stock or water and turn the heat down to medium- low. Mix in the cracked wheat, season with salt and pepper, and gently simmer for about 10 minutes, until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the artichokes are fork-tender. Remove from the heat and mix in the herbs, capers and lemon zest.
3. Using a teaspoon, stuff the calamari with the artichoke filling, pushing the filling down into the tubes with the back of the spoon. Seal the tentacle end using two toothpicks for each calamari, attaching the tentacles to the sticks, too – make sure you haven’t over-stuffed so that they don’t seal with the toothpicks. Pierce the body here and there with a toothpick to prevent it from bursting while cooking.
4. Place a wide pot with a tight-fitting lid over a medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Once hot, place the stuffed calamari in the pot. They will sizzle. Let them cook for a couple of minutes on each side, flipping them over. Season with salt and pepper, then pour in the wine, followed by the warm stock or water, and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Season with a little black pepper and cover with the lid. Cook for about 20-30 minutes until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the calamari are fork-tender.
5. Meanwhile, make the dressing. Add the lemon juice to a bowl. Slowly pour in the olive oil while whisking quickly. It should look rather yellowish and thickened. Mix in the dill along with salt and pepper to taste.
6. Serve the calamari either whole or sliced, drizzled with the sauce.

Salt of the Earth: Secrets and Stories from a Greek Kitchen by Carolina Doriti was published by Quadrille in March 2023 (£27 hardback)

The wines to drink with artichoke & caper stuffed calamari

By Fiona Beckett

The artichoke in the recipe may be the element that flashes warning lights to any wine lover (it tends to make any accompanying wine taste sweet), but in fact, it’s the lemon zest and herbs that are likely to be the more dominant notes. Given the fashionability of Greek wines, it would be perverse not to start on home turf, and please don’t be put off by Carolina’s suggestion of retsina – there are some highly drinkable ones around these days. Otherwise the obvious option is Assyrtiko, although you could go for one of the more modest Greek white blends that are starting to appear in the UK. Other dry whites would work well, too. Albariño and the slightly better value Alvarinho from neighbouring Portugal spring to mind. A Txakoli would be interesting, as would some of the surprisingly fresh, crisp whites you find in southern Italy, such as Greco di Tufo or Carricante (the grape used to make most Etna whites). Not Sauvignon, though, I suggest.

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Wine with burgers: Styles to consider

• Cabernet Sauvignon
• Syrah / Shiraz
• Grenache / Garnacha
• Sangiovese
• Pinot Noir
• Cabernet Franc 
• Grüner Veltliner with chicken burgers
• Rossese di Dolceacqua with tuna burgers
• Orange wines or earthy Pinot Noir with veggie burgers

A brief burger history

An ancient recipe book named Apicius suggests that Romans were eating wine-infused meat patties centuries before Ronald McDonald and his associates, including Mayor McCheese, were discovered living in the fictional world of McDonaldland.

Other food historians believe ‘hamburgers’ evolved from the traditional Hamburg steak in Germany.

Whoever is right, burgers are now ubiquitous, and recent incarnations have turned the humble patty and bun combination into an art form.

The environmental and public health impacts of consuming too much meat are increasingly well understood. So, following the ‘less but better’ mantra, if you’re going to eat a burger, then make it a good one.

And if you’re going to have a great burger, it deserves a great wine.

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Wines with classic beef burgers

For a classic ground beef burger, consider some of the go-to red meat wines, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. A juicy Grenache or classic ‘GSM’ blend could also be a great accompaniment to a night of comfort food, as recommended in our guide to choosing a barbecue wine.

If you’re a Malbec fan, consider wines from cooler vineyard sites that may have higher-than-normal acidity, as advised by expert Patricio Tapia in this article on matching wine with steak.

And why not uncork a top bottle?

‘I’m definitely a fan of a top-notch wine and a burger,’ said Clive Pursehouse, Decanter’s North American editor.

He said a medium-rare burger with ‘perfectly seasoned fries – you call them chips over there – and a couple of glasses of Washington State Syrah or Oregon Pinot Noir or in the summertime, Lambrusco, is pretty close to perfect’.

Beatrice Bessi, now head sommelier at Chiltern Firehouse, also voted for Syrah when she spoke to Decanter in 2019 in her position as assistant head sommelier at London’s 67 Pall Mall.

‘The structure, with the black fruit, dried herbs and smoky, gamey profile, will work perfectly,’ she said at the time.

‘When I pair food with wine, every single detail matters, [such as] the structure of the dish, the flavour profile, the acidity, whether there are any spices.’

‘For a burger, I would consider red as an option because the tannic structure can balance the structure of the grilled beef.’

Alongside Syrah, she added, ‘A nice glass of Sangiovese from Tuscany, like a Chianti Classico or a Brunello di Montalcino, would always work, where the acidity and tannins are able to match the burger, and the roasted herbs are enhancing the flavours of the meat.’

Another option would be to prioritise the acidity and fruit. ‘I’ve always loved Cabernet Franc with burgers,’ said Decanter expert Michaela Morris. ‘Not too heavy, bright crunchy fruit and even better with a chill, it is a refreshing summertime match.’

While Loire Valley Cabernet Franc would be a classic choice, she also suggested looking at Ontario in her native Canada.

What about the cheese, we hear you ask?

A creamier, fattier cheese will likely emphasise the need for juicy fruit and good acidity. In contrast, a tangier, harder cheese melted into your patty might be able to handle a slightly bolder wine, such as a Cabernet-based Bordeaux blend.

See our cheese and wine matching guide, but be warned that some things may not translate. Sauternes is often a dream with blue cheeses like Stilton or Roquefort, but its sweetness may not be so fun in this situation.

Wine with chicken burgers or fish burgers

For any dish, lighter meat in your burger means a move towards slightly lighter styles of wine, but with enough acidity and structure to stand up to the array of ingredients.

Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, previously recommended Austrian Grüner Veltliner for chicken dishes that involve garlic, herb and lemon flavours; and this could be adapted to a burger scenario.

In a similar vein, light, zippy reds can work with some fish burgers.

‘I tend to eat tuna burgers much more often, and one of the best pairings I’ve had with this was a Rossese di Dolceacqua [from Liguria in Italy],’ said Michaela Morris.

‘The salty and sour nature of the fruit and easygoing tannin just shone with fish.’

Pairing wine with veggie burgers

Natalie Earl, Decanter’s regional editor for France, suggested delving into the world of orange wine.

‘It is often really textural with a grippy mouthfeel and a savoury edge with dried herbs like sage and thyme, plus dried orange and orange peel notes. I think orange wine pairs really well because veggie burgers are often herby and slightly spicy,’ she said.

She also suggested more earthy Pinot Noir styles, such as village-level Burgundy, rather than riper Pinot styles.

‘I think the more savoury, delicate characters would go better with a veggie burger. Something from the Côte de Beaune, like Monthélie or Maranges, would bring a peppery redcurrant vibe to the dish.’

Experimenting is part of the fun

Of course, there are many more combinations of burger and wine styles than we can cover in this article, and experimenting is part of the fun when it comes to food and wine matching.

If you’re trying out your own matches, consider how certain flavours complement or contrast each other, as Karen MacNeil explains in the 10 rules of food and wine pairing.

Search our expert wine reviews to find your perfect match

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Rioja is such a well-known, well-loved wine that it’s easy to take the kind of food you pair it with for granted – the assumption being that it will be red wine and that lamb will top the list.

Nothing wrong there, of course. No one who’s been to the region and feasted on those absolutely delectable, sweet, smoky lamb cutlets cooked over an open fire of vine cuttings would disagree. But there’s a lot more to Rioja than that. The fact that it comes in more than one colour, for a start.

Diverse reds

First, let’s dig a bit deeper into what you could pair with a red Rioja, depending on price and style. As you probably know, the classification system – crianza, reserva and gran reserva – is indicative of age. But these days that isn’t the whole story. Gran reservas are more vibrant and intense than they once were, so the recommendation to drink them with feathered game, for example, might seem misplaced. Mind you, Rioja does age well – so with older vintages that’s still good advice.

Many Riojas though, and not just the young ones, are made in a much bolder, more fruit-forward style that make them perhaps better suited to cuisines other than Spanish. Even more so when the dominant grape is Graciano rather than Tempranillo, which lends an exotic edge to a wine that I always think goes particularly well with Middle Eastern food.

I’ve also found that younger, more fruit-forward styles of red Rioja go really well with warmer curries such as a rogan josh or a lamb raan (marinated roast leg of lamb), or with a chilli or punchy Korean barbecue dishes. If that sounds improbable, think how many Spanish dishes contain the smoked red pepper seasoning pimentón or spicy chorizo.

Any red Rioja you pair with pimentón or ground red chilli will also work on the other side of Europe with dishes made from paprika – goulash, for example. Rioja is also a great partner for Middle Eastern and North African spices, including cumin, coriander and saffron. A reserva or crianza is a good wine to drink with a tagine – even, perhaps surprisingly, a chicken tagine with olives and preserved lemons.

Lamb rogan josh. Credit: Maja Smend

On the pulse

Pulses are another good avenue to explore – think of those hearty Spanish dishes of pork and beans or chickpeas such as fabada or cocido. If it works in Spain, why not with French food too? A young crianza would go just fine with a cassoulet or a hearty dish of Toulouse sausage and lentils.

In terms of veggies, both red and green peppers – and combinations of the two – pair particularly well with red Rioja. Especially in dishes that also include eggs. Indeed, wine columnist Victoria Moore even has a book on wine pairing called Fried Eggs and Rioja. If you feel robust enough to drink Rioja for brunch, it’s brilliant with the North African dish shakshuka: eggs cooked in a spicy tomato sauce with roasted red peppers.

What Tempranillo as a grape variety has going for it – and the characteristic that accounts for its popularity and versatility – is an appealing roundness and lack of angular tannins. This makes it a good companion for a cheese board. Manchego and other hard cheeses work especially well, but a reserva – and I particularly like a reserva with a cheese board – can handle most cheeses, including blues.

Tempranillo is also an easygoing companion for classic British pub dishes such as sausages and mash or steak pie. It’s great with gravy (a compliment in British terms) and also with that fashionable, intensely sticky dish of slow-cooked ox cheek.

You don’t need to buy expensive bottles to enjoy it, either. An inexpensive young Rioja is one of the easiest reds to enjoy on its own or with a simple tapa such as chorizo or mushrooms.

Versatile whites

Rioja’s white wines work well with a range of dishes and cuisine types, too. When it’s young, unoaked and crisp you can drink white Rioja with almost any kind of salad or seafood dish – from anchovies to fish tacos. But for me, it’s when it’s oaked that white Rioja is at its most rewarding, making a more affordable alternative to white Burgundy.

Try it with full-flavoured fish such as hake (especially served with garlic chips as they do in Spain) or salt cod. It can stand up to robust pork, veal, chicken and even lamb dishes, and can easily carry you through a vegetarian or even vegan meal: it’s really good with a whole roast celeriac or cauliflower, for example.

Oaked white Rioja is also perfect with robust, full-flavoured salads made from kale, roasted butternut squash, red peppers (again) and anchovies. In their food-and-wine-pairing book What Wine When, Bert Blaize and Claire Strickett recommend pairing it with a caesar salad – a combination I can absolutely see working.

Roasted butternut squash and kale salad

Gastronomic pinks

The same claim can be made for Rioja’s rosado wines, which are more structured and savoury than many rosés on the market, making them a natural pairing for a barbecue. Rioja rosado also goes exceptionally well with Spanish rice dishes: the classic paella, obviously, although there are arguments among chefs about what exactly constitutes a classic paella. Arguments aside, rosado will go with many variations of paella – with pork, fish or shellfish. And if paella, why not other rice dishes? I’d happily drink a Rioja rosado with a biryani or a pilaf.

The aged style of rosado, of which R López de Heredia’s Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva is perhaps the best-known example, can be magnificent with grilled lobster. Amazingly, raw shellfish can work too, as I discovered in the Peruvian restaurant Lima in London, where the sommelier matched a dish of raw scallops with tiger’s milk (spicy citrus marinade) and passion fruit (much nicer than it sounds) with Ramón Bilbao’s top-end gastronomic Lalomba Rosado.

So while I definitely wouldn’t want to discourage you from enjoying a nice bottle of Rioja with your Sunday roast or your cheeseboard, there are many more possibilities
– and, hopefully, surprises – in store when it comes to pairing food with Rioja wines.

Shumana Palit. Credit: Walesonline / Gayle Marsh

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The Emilia region in northern Italy is home to all but one of Italy’s DOC and IGT denominations for Lambrusco – a wine name that’s still well known in the UK and US especially, thanks to its heady popularity in its simple, fun fizz guise back in the 1970s and ’80s.

Lambrusco’s historical success has proved to be both a blessing and a curse for the Emilia region, however; while the big players prospered commercially, it made it extremely difficult for smaller producers to emerge into the limelight. It also caused the denial of Lambrusco’s historical role as an effervescent palate-cleanser born to match the cuisine of the Emilia region. ‘Lambrusco turned into a completely different wine from what it was in the local tradition,’ explains Anselmo Chiarli, co-owner of highly regarded producer Cleto Chiarli. ‘Here in Emilia, we have always liked it dry.’

While sweet versions of Lambrusco still prove successful in some markets, most quality-oriented producers are finally shifting to drier styles – either going back to the wine’s roots, or experimenting with innovative techniques to highlight Lambrusco’s versatility. Average quality across the various Lambrusco denominations is constantly improving, with a mix of large wineries and independent growers crafting characterful examples that share food-friendliness as a common point.

Diversity is the key word when assessing Lambrusco: not only do the vineyards stretch from the alluvial flatlands of the Padana plain to the rolling hills of the pre-Appenine area – covering six DOCs in Emilia, a broader IGT and a smaller sub-region in the Lombardy province of Mantova further north – the Lambrusco family also comprises at least 12 different grape varieties.

Style choice

Blending different grapes has always been the norm, yet single-varietal versions of three key varieties have become predominant in recent years, accounting for the vast majority of the premium production. Among them, Lambrusco di Sorbara grabs the most attention. Mostly found in its namesake DOC, comprising 12 villages in the plains surrounding the city of Modena, it is usually defined by a delicate, rosé to light ruby colour enhanced by direct pressing of the grapes or brief macerations, anticipating a delicate, red-fruited and floral nose, and a high-acid and bone-dry mouthfeel.

Lambrusco Grasparossa is widely grown across the entire Emilia region, with the only exception being the tiny Colli di Parma DOC, and boasts a radically opposite personality: deeper-coloured and fuller-bodied, versions labelled as ‘secco’ are generally smoothed out by a touch of residual sugar (12-15g/L) that softens racier tannins; those fitting into the ‘amabile’ category usually contain between 40-50g/L of residual sugar.

Lambrusco Salamino, producing Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce in the province of Modena, and also yielding a significant proportion of the Lambrusco Reggiano production, is a happy medium between the two: it has an even inkier colour than Grasparossa and displays similar flavours but the tannins are softer, so it usually requires lower sugar levels to achieve balance.

Local personality

Production methods are another factor that must be taken into account: ever since Cleto Chiarli introduced the first autoclaves in the 1950s, most producers have favoured the Charmat method (secondary fermentation of the base wine in a sealed, pressurised stainless steel tank), which enables a light mousse – no more than 2.5 bars of pressure – to be obtained very rapidly. However, the upsurge in popularity of pét-nat sparkling wines (the ‘ancestral method’, whereby a wine is bottled before it completes its first and only fermentation, which is allowed to restart and complete in the bottle) has fostered the rediscovery of the original way of making Lambrusco, especially in the Sorbara area, and the resulting wines are easily recognisable by their cloudy appearance (the light sediment of spent yeasts) and pleasantly rustic mouthfeel.

Lambrusco di Sorbara also gives some of the best spumante (above three bars of pressure), frequently produced using the metodo classico or traditional method (refermented in the bottle). Cantina della Volta leads the scene in this segment, defying misconceptions that Lambrusco is not suitable for extended ageing, by resting its wines on the lees for at least 36 months.

Emilia boasts an incredible quantity of world-famous recipes. In the region’s chief town, Bologna – also known as La Ghiotta (‘the gluttonous’) due to its immense culinary tradition – tagliatelle al ragú, tortellini with cream or in capon broth, and lasagne take centre stage, while must-try dishes in Modena include cotechino (slow-cooked pork sausage) with lentils, and tortelloni filled with ricotta and spinach. Parma, meanwhile, is renowned for bollito misto (boiled meat with sauces). Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro Secco (see wine notes below, Fattoria Moretto) always stands out as the most versatile choice with these dishes, where the smooth texture and light tannins allow it to stand up to even the most savoury of flavours.

Emilia’s lofty gastronomic reputation is also linked to the production of some of Italy’s best cold cuts and cheeses. The humid climate of the Padana plain makes it possible to season salumi with less salt, so they always stand out for intense yet delicate flavours and irresistibly creamy texture. Any Lambrusco would pair well with a mixed plate of Prosciutto di Parma, Culatello di Zibello, Mortadella Bologna and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese (all quality, DOP or PGI protected-designation products), traditionally accompanied by gnocco fritto – fried bread dumpling. However, the acidity of an ancestral-method Lambrusco di Sorbara, such as Radice by Paltrinieri, is best suited to balance the fats without overwhelming the flavours.

If looking for non-Emilian food-matching alternatives, pizza is the first dish that comes to mind – crunchy pizza bianca with Mortadella Bologna or ham (and no tomato sauce) is a great match for a crisp and light tank-fermented Lambrusco di Sorbara. Richer pizzas with cheese, tomato sauce and/or salami instead require a bone-dry, red Lambrusco Spumante such as the Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce by Cantina Ventiventi (see below), which maximises the cleansing effect with its more energetic mousse.

Flavour horizons

A spicy chilli con carne will match well with the sugar levels in a Lambrusco amabile. Credit: Istetiana / Getty Images

Many producers are trying to promote pairings beyond Italian cuisine, and Japanese recipes seem one of the best options: a top-notch Lambrusco di Sorbara Metodo Classico undergoing longer ageing on the lees, such as Cantina della Volta’s 36, possesses the right combination of fruit weight, aromatic breadth and brightness to complement salmon or tuna nigiri. Ramen is also a great match, sharing sweet-and-savoury flavours with local Emilian broths. ‘Ever since we started organising themed dinners featuring pork ramen and Concerto, a single-varietal Salamino, Japan has been one of the most important markets for us,’ explains Alessandro Medici, co-owner of Medici Ermete. ‘Its dry but fruity mouthfeel enhances the umami taste.’

Finally, higher sugar levels allow Lambrusco amabile to pair well with spicy food: try with chilli con carne or tacos with beef and mole. It’s also the only Lambrusco that doesn’t taste metallic with extra-old DOP Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena. ‘Finding a perfect wine match for a vinegar over 25 years old is impossible, but at least amabile versions avoid clashing with it,’ says Medici – pour a few drops on aged Parmigiano Reggiano or gelato for a delectable dessert.

Mosca’s selection: Seven food-friendly Lambruscos

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For those of us who were fans of Russell Norman’s restaurants, his book Brutto has a particular poignancy. Sadly, he died shortly after its publication, but it remains the perfect tribute to both the man and his simple but always stylish cooking.

Norman was a passionate Italophile with an eye for design, which enabled him to recreate not only the food of a city or region (he’d written a similar book on Venice) but the authentic feel of its restaurants. Brutto, which is also the name of his most recent outpost in London’s Smithfield, is dedicated to the food of Florence, which is often as unlovely to look at as it is delicious to eat – hence the name, which means ‘ugly’. But the book – with its glorious photography throughout and open-stitch binding, which makes it possible to lay it out flat as you cook from it – is as beautiful as it’s practical.

Brutto: 35-37 Greenhill Rents, London EC1M 6BN

Chicken with grapes, olives & sage

Recipe by Russell Norman

There is something quite satisfying about combining the two primary fruit crops of a region – grapes and olives in the case of Tuscany – and using them in the same dish. There’s a winning contrast between the sweetness of one and the brackish tang of the other. I think it looks more impressive to leave the grapes attached to the fine stems of the small bunches, but not if they’re too twiggy – if they are, pick the grapes off and discard the stems. Ask your butcher to cut the whole bird into eight roughly even pieces.

Serves 4

Preparation time 20 minutes

Cooking time 75 minutes

Ingredients

• extra virgin olive oil
• 1 small onion, finely sliced
• 1 small carrot, peeled and finely sliced
• 1 celery stalk, finely sliced
• 1 large free-range chicken, around 1.5kg, cut into 8 pieces
• flaky sea salt & black pepper
• a large bunch of small, sweet, seedless grapes
• a large handful of Taggiasca olives, pitted
• 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and cut in half lengthways
• a large handful of sage leaves
• 200ml white wine

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Heat several good glugs of olive oil in a very large, cast-iron, ovenproof casserole dish. Soften the onion, carrot and celery for about 10 minutes. Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and add to the pan. Cook for another 12-15 minutes until the chicken is nicely golden brown.
2. Reduce the heat and add the grapes, olives, garlic and sage leaves. Stir for a few minutes. Pour in two-thirds of the white wine and place the casserole dish uncovered in the oven for 30 minutes.
3. At the 30-minute point, check the contents and if still too wet, turn the oven up to 200°C/400°F/gas 6 for a further 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken, olives and grapes to a large serving dish with the garlic and sticky sage leaves and cover. Place the casserole dish on a high heat and deglaze the cooking juices with the rest of the white wine for a few minutes until reduced to a sticky sauce. Pour it over the chicken and serve.

Brutto: A (Simple) Florentine Cookbook, by Russell Norman (£32 Ebury Press), was published in November 2023

The wines to drink with chicken with grapes, olives & sage

By Fiona Beckett

A recipe that combines sweet (in the form of grapes) and bitter (olives and sage) isn’t perhaps the easiest to match. Normally I’d say go with the wine that’s used in the recipe which, being Florentine, could be a Vernaccia di San Gimignano, and that would certainly work – but I’m instinctively rooting for a red, as Russell is too, by the looks of the glasses in the shot. Given the grapes, a Chianti might be a little austere and a Brunello too serious for a light, almost summery dish, but I think a fruitier modern Tuscan red from the Maremma would work, as would Brunello’s baby brother, a Rosso di Montalcino. If you’re not too anxious about authenticity you could head further north in Italy for your wine pairing (a not-too-sweet Valpolicella ripasso would hit the spot) or further south: a fruity Sicilian red would be delicious, too. Or for a slightly more left-field option try an orange wine, which should play well with the bitter notes of the sage and olives.

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

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Pairing wine with chocolate can certainly be tricky, but the good news is that there’s plenty of room for experimentation.

For Sarah Jane Evans MW, co-chair at the Decanter World Wine Awards, the wine’s flavour, acidity, weight and length are important, and whether these characteristics work with the intensity, sweetness and texture of the chocolate.

Chocolate can have a whole variety of flavour profiles, and added ingredients like ginger or fruit can inevitably make a difference, but the origin and production of the chocolate can also have an impact.

Craft chocolate specialist Spencer Hyman, co-founder of Cocoa Runners, spoke about different styles – as well as the importance of texture – during an online tasting hosted by The Wine Society.

Sommelier Kelvin McCabe told Decanter that for food and wine pairing in general it’s important to consider elements within the food, ‘from texture to sweetness to acidity and flavour profile’.

‘It is exactly the same with the wine as well; you have to understand the amount of acidity, the amount of fruit, is it perceived sweetness and ripeness, [or] is it actual residual sugar? All of these things are a factor when you pair them together. It’s all theoretical until you’ve tasted it,’ he said.

Which red wine goes best with chocolate?

Personal preference is always a big factor with wine and food matching.

Some people love rich, luxurious dark or milk chocolate with lush reds, such as fuller-bodied styles of Zinfandel with ripe, jammy fruit and elements of sweet spice garnered from oak. Others might find this too much.

McCabe told Decanter that he would personally opt for fresher styles of red as more of a classic match with dark chocolate.

Pairing up the acidity in the wine and chocolate is important, but the ‘bitterness in the chocolate can accentuate the fruit in the wine’, he said.

In terms of bolder reds, it depends on the chocolate you’re eating. In general, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot can all work, but McCabe suggested broadly looking towards warmer climate regions, such as parts of Australia, South Africa or Chile, where you might overall expect brighter, juicier fruit and gentler tannins.

Merlot can be a particular winner ‘because you get that sweeter, plum, almost chocolatey note anyway’, he said.

What about dessert wines and white wines?

Going beyond dry reds, McCabe said that Banyuls dessert wine, from Roussillon in southern France, can be fantastic with darker chocolate.

‘Alternatively, I would find a slightly aged, but a little bit more complex botrytis wine, maybe something like a Recioto di Soave, which works really well.’

Those looking for a more ‘out there’ match might also give skin-contact white wines a go. A bottling with relatively light skin-contact can be great with salted dark chocolate, in particular.

‘Something that has a couple of weeks of skin contact and quite bright fruit is a little bit of fun with dark chocolate and salt, [and] works really really well,’ McCabe said.

On milk chocolate specifically, McCabe previously suggested trying out riper styles of white wines with a little touch of oak, such as a Viognier or perhaps a Pinot Gris.

Amontillado Sherry, with its nutty complexity, is also worth a go with milk chocolate that contains almonds or hazelnuts.

Wines to pair with white chocolate

White chocolate generally has a milky, creamier character with a more delicate flavour profile. The freshness of Riesling could be delicious here, McCabe said.

‘If you do have a quality white chocolate with creaminess, you could have a little bit of fun with a Champagne or English sparkling and a good bit of autolysis – with brioche or buttery notes. I think that’s a fun bit of pairing,’ he said, although added he hasn’t tried this one specifically.

Alternatively, try seeking out a white wine with a balance of fruitiness and salinity, alongside a bit of refreshing acidity and a touch of creaminess. A Greek white like Moschofilero could work, he suggested.

Wines to match with chocolate this Easter:

The following wines have been tasted and rated by Decanter’s experts.

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Born in Turin, Silvia Baldini is a classically trained chef, who has worked in restaurants in London, New York City and Connecticut, including The Ritz and Ottolenghi. Her recipes and stories have been published in numerous titles including Food & Wine, Saveur, The New York Times, La Cucina Italiana and Forbes.

Silvia Baldini profile picture credit: Shotti

When I married my Italian husband, my mother-in-law gifted me two binders of typed family recipes. Together with my own mother’s handwritten recipes, they are my most treasured possessions and the ones I cook from the most. These faded, much-used, grease-stained pages remind me of the power of women around the table. We women, collectively, can shape the minds and bodies of future generations. When we cook, we not only nourish bellies, we also empower communities and support and advance one another’s careers and dreams.

This is why I wrote Les Dames d’Escoffier New York Cookbook: Stirring the Pot, a collection of 76 family recipes alongside wine pairings from acclaimed sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier. The recipes are delicious and easy to cook from, because they come from some of the most talented women in the culinary world. They range from simple and ideal for any beginner home cook to more process- heavy to appeal to experienced cooks who like a challenge. Every recipe is unique and stimulating, like the Dame who contributed it.

Fromage fort

Recipe contributed by Marsha Palanci, author of Tarte Tatin Tales: Recollections and Recipes for Living the Good Life (US$36.69/£29 BookBaby)

French women are fundamentally frugal. So, when there’s leftover cheese, they accumulate the odd bits to make a fromage fort, meaning ‘strong cheese’. This is basically a cheese spread made more interesting with the addition of wine, sweet butter and shallots or garlic. As the combination changes, determined by the selection of leftover cheeses, the result is always something different. Spread on crackers or slices of baguettes, or even piped on halved cherry tomatoes, fromage fort will surprise your guests and cut down on waste, too.

Serves 6

Preparation time 20 minutes

Cooking time None

Ingredients

• 500g leftover pieces of cheese, to include soft, grated hard cheese, blue and goat’s milk cheeses
• 60g unsalted butter
• 2 shallots, finely sliced or 2 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
• 60ml dry white wine or 1 tbsp Cognac
• 1⁄4 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 60g pecans, chopped

Method

1. Bring the cheeses and butter to room temperature.
2. Grate all the hard cheeses. Remove hard rinds and any dried-out sections. Don’t worry about removing rinds of soft-ripened cheeses such as brie or camembert.
3. Put the sliced shallot or garlic in a food processor and pulse for a few seconds.
4. Add the pieces of cheese and unsalted butter, wine or Cognac and pepper, process for 30-45 seconds until the mixture is creamy. Stir in the pecans.
5. Put into a pot; refrigerate for at least one day to allow flavours to marry.

Les Dames d’Escoffier New York Cookbook: Stirring the Pot, co-authored by Silvia Baldini and Sharon Franke, was published in September 2023 (US$29.99/£23.50 History Press/Arcadia). Proceeds from sales benefit Les Dames d’Escoffier New York’s scholarship fund, which supports aspiring professional women in food and beverage.

Credit: Chloe Zale

The wines to drink with fromage fort

By Fiona Beckett

As Marsha Palanci says, fromage fort can take many forms depending on the cheese – and booze – you use. I’ve certainly made it with the tail ends of stinky cheeses which make it quite challenging, especially if you add garlic rather than onion and hot pepper, which some recipes include. If you incorporate a blue, I agree with sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier’s suggestion that a wine with a touch of sweetness like a Vouvray demi-sec can work really well, but in general I lean towards wines with a high level of acidity. Aligoté, Muscadet, Picpoul and Albariño would all do the trick, as would a Loire Sauvignon Blanc, especially if goats’ cheese is dominant. I also think a strong rosé works well with a cheese spread, maybe a simple southern French rather than a high-end Provençal one. Or a Rioja rosado, if one is allowed to drink a Spanish wine with a French recipe. If you want to drink red (which would work if there’s a high proportion of Cheddar or other hard cheeses), I’d go for a Bordeaux or straight Malbec.

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

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Wine with lamb at a glance

Which wine goes well with lamb?

Many reds from the classic grape varieties are wonderful if you’re looking to pair wine with lamb.

We’ve focused on reds below, but white wines can also work with red meat.

When matching wine with lamb it’s important to pay close attention to the cut of meat you’re cooking and how you are going to cook it and serve it.

Below, we’ve looked at the three most popular ways to cook lamb.

Pinot Noir with young lamb – served pink

Lighter, tender lamb meat demands a wine that will not swamp and overpower the delicate flavours and sublime texture. If you do reach for a full-bodied red, you run the risk of ruining your meat.

A fresher style of Pinot Noir from cooler climate regions can combine lovely red berry fruit balanced by earthy notes, fine tannins and good natural acidity.

Those searching for value in Burgundy could look to lesser-known areas on the up.

They include Rully, where the reds have been stepping out of Chardonnay’s shadow, or Fixin at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, where Charles Curtis MW argues you can still find value. Fresher styles from Givry further south  in the Côte Chalonnaise should also appeal. Some top producers have outposts in these regions.

Beyond Burgundy, you have a wealth of options. This could be a chance to see why German Pinot Noir continues to gain plaudits, or you could look to Oregon in the US.

There are many other Pinot regions to explore, including:

• Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Australia
• Walker Bay in South Africa
• Russian River Valley, Anderson Valley or Santa Barbara County in California
• Willamette Valley in Oregon

Rosé wine with lamb

If you don’t fancy a delicate red, this is your chance to reach for a weighty rosé such as Tavel or Bandol from the south of France.

Don’t believe friends who say rosé wines don’t go with food.

Alternatively, how about upping the tempo with a vintage rosé Champagne? Pink, tender lamb and a top rosé Champagne is something everyone must try once.

Cabernet Sauvignon wine with lamb roast – medium to well done

This is a classic. The meat will be richer in flavour and not quite as tender, so a roast like this can handle a fuller-bodied red wine.

Bordeaux blends are made for roast lamb. The young Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant wines of the Bordeaux Left Bank are brimming with cassis fruit, backed by a splattering of spiciness and – in the best versions – well-judged oak.

You could try a vintage likely to be more approachable at a younger age. Great vintages like 2000 or 1996 could also make a memorable occasion, if you’re lucky enough to have them. A wine like this will take the meat to an extra dimension, and the bolder tannin levels in your glass should also make the lamb meat feel more tender.

So-called ‘second wines’ from recent top vintages are also worth a look.

Good Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends can be found across the globe, too, of course.

The regions to look out for are:

• Hawke’s Bay – New Zealand
• California – USA
• Coonawarra & Margaret River – Australia
• Stellenbosch – South Africa
• Argentinaand Chile – South America

If you’re not keen on Cab, go for a good Rioja Reserva with some bottle age, or look towards Syrah/Shiraz.

A Northern Rhône Syrah will enhance your roast lamb. Some wines will offer a touch of pepper spice in the glass that can also work beautifully with the texture of the meat.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape or Brunello with shoulder of lamb

If you’re slow roasting a shoulder from an older lamb, you’ll be cooking with a lot more fat content on the meat, which holds and seals in the flavour fantastically.

That pronounced gamey flavour to your roast means that we’re looking for a wine with that great balance of tannin, acidity and a little bottle age to draw out the flavours.

Grenache-based with a few years of bottle age would fit the bill.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the Southern Rhône would be classic here, although you could also look to South Australia’s McLaren Vale or some of the great-value Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (GSM) blends in Languedoc-Roussillon.

If none of these sound appealing, how about Spain’s Ribera del Duero region?

A young-ish Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany can also offer a lovely mix of bright red fruit, acidity, tannin and herbal notes. Rosso di Montalcino is another great option.

A well-balanced Brunello will have the tannin to soften the meat and enough natural acidity to cut through those extra layers of fat. This can be a truly sumptuous match.

Once you’ve made your choice, don’t forget to think about the serving temperature of your red wine.

Best wine with lamb

The following wines have been tasted and rated by Decanter’s experts.

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While the long lunch may have disappeared from our weekday lives (well, mine at least), there’s nothing like a lingering Sunday get-together with family and friends to round off the weekend.

Wine lovers will no doubt see it as an opportunity to pull out a treasured bottle, but is that the best strategy? Should it be mellow and mature or bright, youthful and fruity? That depends rather less on the central ingredient of the meal than the way you cook it.

Scroll down to see notes and scores for 25 fabulous matches for your leisurely Sunday lunches

See notes and scores for 25 fabulous Sunday lunch wines

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The dream cheeseboard

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Five years after my mother died of lung cancer in 2013, I set up the not-for-profit cookery school Life Kitchen. Since its formation we have led classes all over the UK, joined forces with charities and organisations that work with people living with cancer, and supported hundreds of people who have had their senses altered as a result of the disease or its therapies. Our one overarching aim is to help people find pleasure in food again.

In Small Pleasures: Joyful Recipes for Difficult Times, my focus has been to develop exciting, easy-to-create dishes for when we feel rundown, lethargic or blue. The aim has been to provide a holistic approach: these are dishes packed with bold flavours and good-for-you ingredients that look beautiful. They create a manifesto for feeling good again. Whether you’re recovering from illness, running on empty or feeling low, each recipe is intended to nourish and heal, to restore body, mind and soul, and should you need it, to revive your love of cooking and eating. Pleasure in food doesn’t have to be complicated – and it’s available to all of us, whatever our mood or level of physical wellbeing.

Cinnamon, cardamom & white pepper rice pudding

Rice pudding is the food of my childhood, and I’m not sure there is a dessert I find more comforting. This new take on a premium classic requires very little effort for maximum indulgence.

Serves 2

Preparation time 10 minutes

Cooking time 2 hours

Ingredients

• 100g pudding rice
• a small knob of unsalted butter, to grease the dish
• 50g caster sugar
• 350ml whole milk
• 350ml double cream
• 1 tsp ground cardamom
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1⁄2 tsp ground white pepper
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 lemon, zest and juice
• 1 orange, zest and juice
• 3 bay leaves

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 150°C/300°F/gas 2.

2. Wash and drain the rice until the water runs clear, then butter a medium baking dish (about 20-25cm diameter) thoroughly all over the inside.

3. In a bowl, mix the rice with all the remaining ingredients apart from the bay leaves. Transfer it to the baking dish, spreading it out evenly, then lay the bay leaves on top.

4. Place pudding in the oven for about 2 hours, until the rice is tender and the top is golden brown and bubbling. Leave the pudding to stand for 15 minutes, then serve.

Small Pleasures: Joyful Recipes for Difficult Times by Ryan Riley was published in January 2024 (£22 hardback, Bloomsbury)

Ryan Riley founded the Life Kitchen cookery school in 2019 in his home town of Sunderland. He runs cookery classes for people living with cancer across the country, including collaborations at Daylesford, River Cottage and the Jamie Oliver Cookery School. His first book Life Kitchen was published in 2020. @ryanrileyy @lifekitchen

The wines to drink with Cinnamon, cardamom & white pepper rice pudding

by Fiona Beckett

You might question whether wine is an appropriate drink to turn to for this quintessentially comforting ‘nursery’ pudding, but there’s something quite celebratory about a homely recipe like this and its associated memories, especially if you’re sharing it with friends. So why not? Given the citrus element I’d be tempted to go for something orangey – a Spanish Moscatel would be a very affordable choice, or you could try an Orange Muscat such as Andrew Quady’s Essensia from California or Brown Brothers Orange Muscat & Flora from Australia, as below. (An Aussie late-harvest Semillon would actually work, too.)

Stepping up the richness, I wouldn’t be averse to a marmaladey Passito di Pantelleria from Sicily or a (relatively young) Hungarian Tokaji, either. I also like the idea of a sweet (dolce) Marsala or a cream Sherry or Montilla, which would bring a raisiny element to the party. Two other leftfield choices which are non wine-related would be spiced chai tea or – especially indulgent – a shot of Grand Marnier liqueur.

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

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For many, BYOB, or bring your own bottle, likely makes one think of attending a party, or trying to save a few quid. However, these days, the bring-your-own style is increasingly popular in the restaurant industry. Instead of showing up with a bottle of the cheapest wine – complete with an animal on the label – at an upscale restaurant, a guest is encouraged to arrive with a wine to match their meal and the calibre of the venue.

Choosing the right bottle to bring

‘If you’re going to an upscale restaurant to celebrate a special occasion, opt for a more expensive bottle. If you’re attending a casual night out with friends, bring a bottle you would typically enjoy at home,’ says Elyse Lovenworth, lead sommelier at Sommsation, laying the ground rules for a BYO reservation.

The compelling part of a BYO reservation is that you get to choose the food pairing around the wine, not the other way around, which is perhaps why you see it available from Chinatown noodle houses to Michelin star establishments around the world. So, how do you choose the wine to bring if you’re not sure exactly what you’ll be eating that evening?

Joshua Castle, head sommelier at London’s Noble Rot, suggests browsing the restaurant’s wine list ahead of time to gather clues as to what styles work best with the food. But since every BYO restaurant doesn’t necessarily offer a wine list, he advises sparkling wine is always adaptable. He cautions against bringing mature wines, which can be risky if you haven’t opened and tasted them in advance. ‘I recently BYO’d a bottle of 1994 Troplong Mondot only to discover it was terribly oxidised.’

Credit: NoSystem images / E+ via Getty Images

Other versatile and food-friendly wines include Riesling or Pinot Noir, advises Lovenworth. The key is to create a balance between the dishes and the wine, she adds: ‘Steer clear of wines that have a dominant feature or characteristic like the grassiness of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or abundant tannin structure of heavily new oaked Cabernet Sauvignon.’

Choosing the perfect bottle is not just about what’s on the menu. ‘Always keep in mind the audience with whom you are sharing the wine,’ says Cyrus Schultz, beverage director of Cyrus Restaurant in Geyserville, in California’s Sonoma County.

If you’re meeting a group, bring a variety to appeal to different palates, says Lovenworth. ‘Planning ahead and coordinating with your group to bring a mix of wines, like whites and reds, adds a fun element to the meal. It can spark conversations and help you discover new favourites together.’ Groups also provide an opportunity to open a large-format wine. ‘It adds a festive element and ensures everyone can enjoy the same wine.’

For a more intimate setting, consider a special bottle of wine, says Hugo Bensimon, sommelier at Grill 23 in Boston. ‘Special is different for everyone but for me, it’s something I’ve had my eye on drinking for a while, or have been cellaring for some years… a bottle that I won’t be able to drink again right away.’

BYO, like a pro

Once you’ve chosen the perfect bottle or bottles, remember you’re still dining out, which means there’s some etiquette around BYOB.

‘If you’re planning on bringing multiple bottles, then best practice is to contact the restaurant ahead of time,’ says Castle, explaining how this gives them a chance to prepare adequate glassware and decanters.

Some BYO restaurants charge corkage fees, which can be waived with a purchase from the wine list. Regardless of the fee (which is usually nominal in comparison to the wine price), Bensimon thinks diners should always purchase something off the wine list. ‘While it’s very nice to bring in your own wine, supporting the restaurant that is allowing you to do so is important,’ says Bensimon, who usually brings one or two bottles in addition to purchasing a bottle from the restaurant’s list.

Another non-negotiable for Bensimon is to offer the sommelier a glass during dinner. ‘They typically open the bottle, and it’s nice for everyone to get to experience it.’

Once you’re settled into your table with a fresh pour in front of you, trust the pace of the restaurant team. ‘The working people of the restaurant understand the flow and cuisine better than guests, so allowing them to fill a void with a glass here or a bottle there can alleviate some of the stress,’ says Schultz. Castle agrees, saying BYO can often throw off the cadence of a dining room, so guests should ‘be flexible’.

Flexibility includes not expecting a change in glassware for each wine that’s opened, adds Lovenworth. ‘A well-seasoned glass is a sign of an enjoyable night. When switching wines, simply pour a small amount of your next wine into your glass and swirl it around to reduce the remnants from your previous wine. This also limits glasses accumulating on the table, keeping the table clear for your dinner plates.’

Finally, remember you don’t need to finish the bottle or everything you brought. Don’t forget to leave an extra gratuity for the staff.

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Pairing wines with haggis: Five styles to try

• Syrah / Shiraz
• Shiraz-Grenache blends
• Viognier
• Beaujolais Cru (Gamay) 
• German Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)

There are a few different avenues for pairing wines with haggis, which sees its star quality celebrated at Burns Night supper with the traditional reading of Robert Burns’ poem, ‘Address to a Haggis’.

Made well, and from a quality source, haggis offers a rich combination of meaty flavours with peppery and herby characters, as well as bit of spice. If you’re unsure, why not ask your local butcher for advice?

Vegetarian haggis also exists; haggis maker Macsween of Edinburgh celebrated Burns Night 2020 by shipping vegetarian haggis to the US – its first export to the country in 50 years.

Food safety officials in the US prohibited haggis imports in 1971, citing the traditional inclusion of sheep’s lung.

Scotch whisky and Burns Night go hand-in-hand, but Robert Burns did write about drinking a ‘pint o’ wine’ in his song ‘The Gowden Locks of Anna’.

A pint is perhaps pushing it on a weekday evening, but there are plenty of styles to explore.

Pairing red wine with haggis

‘I’m always surprised at how peppery haggis is – not spicy, but peppery,’ said Tina Gellie, Decanter Content Editor, who offered her advice ahead of Burns Night.

‘And of course it is also dense, rich and meaty. As most people do on Burns Night, I have always paired my haggis, neeps and tatties with whisk(e)y, but if I were to choose a wine, I’d probably go for a juicy, fruit-driven red, where the tannins wouldn’t compete too much,’ said Gellie, who is also Regional Editor for the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.

‘Maybe a cru Beaujolais, a Carignan or a Shiraz-Grenache blend,’ she said. A South American Syrah could similarly fit the bill.

Fruit-driven red wines with good acidity are likely to be a better bet than bottles with heavily pronounced tannins or oak, which could overpower the flavours of the dish.

German Spätburgunder (Pinot noir) with vegetarian haggis

Natalie Earl, Decanter Regional Editor for France (excl. Bordeaux and Burgundy), said she would enjoy vegetarian haggis with a German Spätburgunder.

‘Both have an earthy, savoury character, and the Spätburgunder is light enough not to make the whole combination too rich,’ she said.

Pairing white wines with haggis

If you’re looking for white wines to pair with haggis, refreshing acidity can still help to lift the dish but think about a trying a style with enough richness to stand up to the flavours.

Options could include riper styles of Viognier, as well as Chardonnays with a touch of oak or creamy texture from malolactic fermentation.

Alternatively, experimenting with lesser-known styles, and trying out different combinations, is all part of the fun when it comes to wine and food pairing.

This Portuguese white wine made from Encruzado, Bical and Cercial grapes recently featured in the value category of Decanter’s Wines of the Year 2023.

An expert panel described it as a ‘great food wine’, combining orchard fruit with a savoury character, oxidative edge and searing acidity.

See more recent wine reviews by Decanter experts below. If you’re planning to stick to spirits, however, here is our guide to 10 of the best Scotch whiskies to try on Burns Night.

This article has been republished from Decanter’s archive, with updated links and new wine reviews added in January 2024. 

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A popular ingredient, chicken is as much a grocery favourite for midweek, minimal-fuss dinners as it is for more indulgent, celebratory weekend cooking. Its versatility is very much its selling point. Stating the obvious, we should all be buying the best-quality chicken our budget allows for, with free range and/or organic chicken being the ideal. A responsibly sourced whole chicken will cost you, and as such I would urge you to be scrupulous in its demolition. After cooking a whole bird and eating your fill, strip the carcass, prising every single morsel from the frame, and use it in a recipe that makes the most of leftovers.

If you are buying chicken from a butcher, a good one should be happy to help with any of your butchering requirements – spatchcocking a whole bird, for example. If not, then as ever there are countless tutorials to show you how to do this online.

With One Pan Chicken, never in my 10 years of writing cookery books has my answer to the question ‘What are you working on at the moment?’ elicited such an enthusiastic response. It has even taken me by surprise. In summary of these conversations – and there have been plenty – people want to eat chicken, and they want to cook that chicken simply, in one pan.

40-cloves-of-garlic chicken

Many food writers – from Richard Olney, Elizabeth David, Keith Floyd and Nigel Slater to Nigella Lawson, me and plenty more – have given the recipe for 40-cloves-of-garlic chicken (thought to be Provençal in origin), but it’s terrific and certainly deserves its place in this book, too.

The older the garlic, the more pungent the flavour, so using some fat cloves of new-season French garlic would no doubt be outrageously good in this recipe, although regular garlic, found already in your kitchen or in supermarket aisles, will also work perfectly well.

Serves four

Ingredients

• 1kg whole chicken thighs, leg or drumsticks
• 40 garlic cloves (approximately 3-4 bulbs), unpeeled
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 250ml dry white wine
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 large thyme sprig
• 250ml chicken stock or water
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Season the chicken with salt and pepper.
2. Heat the oil in a casserole pan over a moderate heat. Add the chicken and garlic and fry, turning, for around 8-10 minutes, until both are golden brown all over.
3. Add the wine, bay and thyme, and cook, stirring often, until the liquid is almost completely cooked away.
4. Add the stock or water and cover with a lid. Then cook over a very low heat for around 30-35 minutes, until the chicken is fully cooked through.
5. Remove the casserole pan from the heat and rest the chicken for 5 minutes before serving.
6. Eat the garlic cloves, squeezing them out from their casings, with the chicken and juices.

One Pan Chicken by Claire Thomson (£20 Quadrille) was published in November 2023

Claire Thomson is a chef, food writer and source of family-cooking inspiration on Instagram. She lives in Bristol with her husband and three children. Her previous books include The Art of the Larder, New Kitchen Basics, Home Cookery Year and Tomato. This is her eighth book.

The wines to drink with 40-cloves-of-garlic chicken

By Fiona Beckett

This is more a question of what goes with garlic than what goes with chicken, although the flavour is milder and more mellow than you’d imagine. Since you will be using white wine to make the dish, I’d be inclined to drink white wine with it, too – maybe from Italy rather than France. You don’t want a buttery Chardonnay or an aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, I would venture. Those usefully neutral Italian whites like Orvieto Classico, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Vernaccia di San Gimignano or, more interesting still, Timorasso, would work just fine. A good Soave, as well.

As there’s a Provençal influence, you could obviously drink a Provence rosé, too – I suggest a Bandol rosé, which tends to be more weighty and savoury than a lighter, paler Côtes de Provence. And if you want to drink a red I’d recommend a light one, Beaujolais being the obvious candidate – though a lighter cru such as a Brouilly or Chiroubles, maybe, rather than a Morgon. Marcillac would be a good rustic alternative.

Wines selected by our Decanter experts

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Lake Michigan, the fifth largest lake in the world, is an integral part of quality grape growing in the state. The Michigan coastline is extensive and full of peninsulas formed thousands of years ago due to glaciation. Arctic glaciers pushed south during the ice ages and carved out the major Great Lakes basin. The lake accumulates heat during the growing season and retains it through the autumn when temperatures drop, thus extending the growing season and giving the ‘lake effect’ necessary to produce quality wine.

‘Our vineyards hug the shores of one of the largest freshwater inland seas in the world, in a land once carved out by glaciers – and this unique terroir creates some real magic in any bottle of Michigan wine,’ says Patrick Brys, president & CEO of Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery.

Riesling: Michigan’s great grape

The latest figures show that Riesling is the most widely planted vinifera grape in Michigan, with 29% of plantings. Over 930ha of vinifera grapes are grown in the state, 270 of them Riesling.

Considered one of the great white grapes of the world, Riesling is lauded by experts for its purity and versatility. Despite this, many consumers believe that all Riesling is sweet, when in fact, the grape can be vinified from a bone-dry wine to the stickiest botrytised style. Riesling is known for its prominent aromatics and high acidity. The naturally high acidity from the grape can be balanced with residual sugar, usually from a halted fermentation. Alcohol levels are generally low, sometimes even in the single digits.

The best regions for Michigan Riesling

For quality grape-growing regions in Michigan, we look to Traverse Wine Coast and Lake Michigan Shore, located in the northwest and southwest corners of the state, respectively. Michigan, shaped like a mitten (or mitt) has 5,200 kilometres of the nation’s largest freshwater coastlines. ‘We have a range of Riesling styles in Michigan. Including more commonly recognised late harvest or sweeter Rieslings, but also dry in style and similar to the highest class Trocken and Alsatian producers,’ says Emily Dockery, executive director of the Michigan Wine Collaborative.

St. Julian Vista vineyard. Credit: Taste Michigan

Home to nearly 40 wineries, the Traverse Wine Coast in the north includes two peninsulas moderated by the massive waters of Lake Michigan. The Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula wine trails both provide optimal expressions of winemaking. They showcase the influence of the lake with very fruit-forward wines. These two peninsulas, north on either side of Traverse City, are responsible for 55% of the state’s production.

In the southwest corner of the state, with 130km of coastline is the Lake Michigan Shore AVA. With 15 winery members, it accounts for approximately 40% of the state’s production. This region is home to the oldest and longest-running winery in the state, St. Julian, founded in 1921. The area is slightly warmer than in the north, giving it an extra two to three weeks for the growing season.

Says Adam McBride, president of the Lake Michigan Shore Wine Trail and owner/winemaker at Hickory Creek Winery: ‘While refreshing acidity is constant across Michigan Rieslings, the wines in the Lake Michigan Shore seem to have a bit more texture and deeper fruit notes. We’re getting more peach, pear, apple and orange phenolics here compared to lighter citrus like lemon and lime in the northern AVAs.’

How Michigan Riesling tastes

The cool-climate wines wines of Michigan have a strong backbone of acidity and fruit-forward aromas and flavours, specifically with Riesling. As is common with the variety, it is vinified from dry to sweet, including botrytised and ice wine styles. McBride says: ‘The constant characteristics across Michigan Rieslings are bright acidity, lower alcohol and aromatic stone fruit and citrus notes. Michigan Rieslings are refreshing, easy to drink and meant to be paired with food.’

Pairing Riesling with food

With the proximity of Lake Michigan, local freshwater fish is a plentiful and a natural pairing with Michigan Riesling. Simple grilled fish from the lake, including salmon and trout, works well with a dry Riesling with a small hint of residual sugar. For a more flavour-packed fish dish such as honey garlic salmon, an off-dry Riesling gives a nice interplay of sweetness and acidity to cut through the sweetness of the sauce.

The most common pairing with Riesling is any mention of ‘spicy Asian food’. More specifically, the high acidity and slight residual sugar in a Michigan Riesling can counteract and balance the spice from dishes such as gochujang noodles, Thai coconut curry, or a spicier curry vindaloo.

Cherries, as an agricultural crop, reign in Michigan. It is the number one state for cherry production in the country. Spiced cherry chutney over roasted pork tenderloin pairs well with a dry Michigan Riesling. On the sweeter side of things, a sweet Riesling or ice wine paired with a fresh-baked cherry cobbler shows how the tartness in the cherries plus the acidity in the Riesling can match each other.

Amoritas Vineyards. Credit: Taste Michigan

Best Michigan Rieslings to try

This selection of bottles covers the styles and regions mentioned above. In general, the Rieslings from Michigan are affordable and approachable.

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Festive days tend to fall into a predictable arc of food and wine: the day starts bright and light, but, as the light fades and the curtains are drawn, plates and glasses get weighed down with heavier loads. By the evening, when the Port decanter is being sluggishly passed around, might a few of us find ourselves wishing we had kept things bright and light for longer?

What if this descent into density and opacity can be fought off by sticking with Champagne from dawn (or at least lunchtime) until dusk? Can Champagne really keep up, and how can we lend it a helping hand with our choices?

The opening act

Whenever your first shots are fired, seafood is likely to be involved. Sarah Miller, owner of top London fishmonger and wine shop Oeno Maris, suggests looking to classic seafood dishes to match with Champagne: dishes that are ‘simple, not overpowering, but easy to prepare despite a certain level of decadence,’ she says . Miller recommends serving Champagne with the rich and timeless dish of oysters Rockefeller (where they are baked in a buttery sauce and topped with breadcrumbs), as Champagne’s inherent acidity is more than able to maintain pace with the creamy opulence of this dish.

Oysters Rockefeller. Credit: Brent Hofacker / Alamy Stock Photo

Miller is also a fan of the straightforward process of home curing sides of salmon, avoiding the overt and Champagne-killing smokiness of bought-in packets. ‘The base is 50/50 Maldon salt and sugar. You can really play with the cure – for example clementine zest and bay leaf work really well with Champagne,’ she suggests.

Miller points out that high-quality farmed salmon from a reputable fishmonger is a tastier and more environmentally sound purchase than wild, and that you can achieve the same with high-quality freshwater trout (such as the UK’s Chalk Stream Trout).

Credit: Catherine Lowe cathlowe.com

For those ordering ahead or without a good fishmonger nearby, Miller is a fan of salmon, mackerel or even herring roe, which she prefers to caviar at a fraction of the price. ‘It just has more pop!’

While hot-smoked fish can be overpowering for Champagne, Miller highlights that salt cod (or bacalao, native to northern Spain and Provence) can be made into a simple and eminently Champagne-friendly brandade (puréed salted cod and potato, with olive oil and garlic) to have on hand for toasts and nibbles.

Oily fish tends to take better to Champagnes with a higher percentage of Pinot Noir, or even rosés. Eric Zwiebel MS of The Samling Hotel recommends brut nature Champagnes with fish such as salmon or tuna ‘to cut the richness of the texture’. Citrussy flavourings will pair better with Chardonnay and blanc de blancs (such as Delamotte Blanc de Blancs, which comes with a real quality boost in magnum if you have more than a few glasses to fill).

Creamier or richer dishes pair best with Champagnes with more age (such as Taittinger’s Prélude Grands Crus), while smokier fish dishes should be good matches for Champagnes that incorporate oak (such as the Paul Déthune Blanc de Noirs from the grand cru village of Ambonnay).

Your keynote dish

When it comes to the main course, Christmas dinner’s traditional trimmings can be Champagne killers – sweet/sour cranberry sauce and a mouthful of youthful blanc de blancs will not be kind to either. Zwiebel recommends a brut style or once again a rosé. ‘Turkey is a neutral meat, it’s more about the trimmings, the gravy, the bread sauce,’ he says.

Rosé Champagne for Christmas turkey.

The main meal is tailor-made for Champagne’s deep and dark rosé de saignée, such as Rémi Leroy’s stunning Les Crots Rosé de Saignée from the Côte des Bar. You could even try one of Champagne’s rare still rosés, such as the beautiful Rosé de Riceys La Fôret from Alexandre Bonnet. The acidity will cut through the richness, while the tannins and body will match up to the sauces – the intense fruitiness will even keep pace with the sweeter condiments, and the bitterness and tannin can take on Brussels sprouts.

Finishing on a high

As the light fades and Christmas puddings, trifles and mince pies enter the equation, even the most optimistic Champagne advocate has to accept defeat; no sparkling wine will survive such onslaughts of sugar, alcohol and spice. ‘The cheeseboard, though, is a fine time to double back,’ says cheese and wine pairing specialist Jessica Summer of Mouse & Grape.

‘Consider the age of the cheese with the age of the Champagne,’ says Summer, suggesting a beautiful pairing of a young Comté-style goat’s cheese from Dorset called Rachel with a non-vintage Champagne, such as Bruno Paillard Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru.

‘Go for medium-age cheese – probably no more than 24 months,’ she says, and avoid very pungent cheeses.

The cheeseboard equals another opportunity to test Champagne’s dexterity.

Don’t be afraid to experiment, though: ‘A Gorgonzola dolce – there’s even one that’s truffle infused – is a showstopper with rosé Champagne. The saltiness of the cheese brings out the fruitiness in the wine; you really get strawberries and cream flavours coming through,’ she says.

But what is the ultimate spot for that special bottle? The leftovers. When all the bustle of the big day is done, there’s no better way to ride out the come-down than by opening a showstopper. Fine vintage rosé Champagne (the Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 2012 is on my menu) with a turkey sandwich – complete with a smudge of cranberry sauce and cold stuffing – is a match that threatens to throw everything else into the shade. Best, then, to make sure there are a few days’ worth to play with.

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If there’s one thing you might assume you don’t have to pay much attention to at Christmas, it’s the cheeseboard. Stilton, Cheddar, brie, maybe a goat’s cheese, that’ll do it, you might think. But you won’t be surprised to hear that your cheeseboard could be so much better if you give some careful thought to both the selection and the wine pairings. And who better to steer you through both than Patricia Michelson, the founder of London’s fabled La Fromagerie, with its three branches in London’s Bloomsbury, Highbury and Marylebone.

Michelson has firm opinions on the subject, from the best moment to eat your cheese (not straight after the big meal, or for at least an hour after it) to the order in which you should eat them.

Patricia Michelson is the founder of La Fromagerie cheese shops in London. Credit: Thomas Skovsende

Decanter Premium is the perfect last-minute gift for wine lovers!

It’s important to enjoy the whole experience, so you need a progression of taste, she argues. ‘Goat’s cheese refreshes and neutralises the palate, its bright acidity building up your tastebuds. Then you want the nutty fruitiness of hard cheese and the mellowness of a bloomy- or washed-rind cheese like a Vacherin. End with a blue, and note how the sharpness of the veins mingles with the richness of the paste and brings the whole taste experience together. Don’t start with the blue because it will kill everything afterwards.

Michelson is generally a fan of white wine with cheese, though she acknowledges that it’s a time of year when most people would drink red. Her own preference is claret or the house wine they serve at the cafe, a Côtes du Frontonnais from southwest France. ‘It’s nice to introduce the younger generation to a really nice Bordeaux like a St-Emilion, though for a Boxing Day cheeseboard a good Beaujolais hits the mark. It’s such a crowd-pleaser.’

In terms of fortified wines, she favours the nuttiness of a Madeira or Marsala over Port, or a Vin de Constance (by Klein Constantia near Cape Town in South Africa), which she feels stands up particularly well to Stilton or Stichelton. ‘I prefer it to Château d’Yquem (Sauternes), which is too fine a wine for blue cheese.’

And a final tip – assuming you live within reach of a decent cheese shop – don’t stock up with too much cheese. ‘Remember, shops only close for a couple of days over the Christmas period.’

Patricia Michelson’s dream cheeseboard

1. Fleur de Chèvre

‘The bright acidity of goat’s cheese refreshes and neutralises the palate, building up your taste buds for the cheeses to follow,’ says Michelson. This unpasteurised cheese from the Poitou-Charentes area is wrapped in a vine leaf and salted with Fleur de Sel from the Ile de Ré, which gives it a fresh, light, lemony flavour – not too aggressively ‘goaty’ for those who are goat’s-cheese averse. It would be delicious with a fresh crunchy apple.

Individual wine match The obvious choice would be a Loire Sauvignon – Sauvignon de Haut-Poitou at the budget end, Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé if you want to splash out, though a Quincy, Reuilly or Menetou-Salon would also work well, as would Cabernet Franc-based Loire reds.

2. Sparkenhoe Red Leicester

This deep orange-coloured territorial cheese from Leicestershire adds a welcome splash of colour to a festive cheeseboard. (The orange comes from a naturally occurring colour called annatto which is found in the seeds of the achiote tree.) Many Red Leicesters are factory-made, though, so look out for Sparkenhoe’s, which is a traditional farmhouse cheese made with unpasteurised cow’s milk and matured for six months on beech shelves. Mellow and slightly nutty, it’s a great foil for a good red, especially Bordeaux. It goes well with nuts, too.

Individual wine match If you have a top claret you want to show off, Red Leicester is one of the best cheeses to pair with it. It would go well with a reserva or gran reserva Rioja, too, or an amontillado Sherry.

3. Isle of Mull Cheddar

There’s a great back story to this Cheddar from Tobermory on Scotland’s Isle of Mull, which is geographically much more exposed than Cheddar’s traditional home territory of Somerset, southwest England. ‘You can pick out the salty, briny flavour of the seaspray,’ says Michelson. The cows get to eat the mashed barley residue from the Tobermory whisky distillery, which helps give it quite a boozy kick and a stronger, richer flavour than you may be used to, especially the summer cheeses. Good with a sweetish wholemeal biscuit.

Individual wine match One for a fortified wine such as a tawny Port or a Madeira, though you could try a full-bodied, oak-aged Chardonnay. ‘I have often enjoyed the summer cheeses with whisky served with a splash of water,’ adds Michelson.

4. Ubriaco

This pale semi-skimmed cow’s milk cheese from the Treviso province, just outside Venice, has a crust that is dipped and washed in red wine pressings (Ubriaco means ‘drunken’). That gives it a marked tangy, winey flavour that makes it a particularly good match for a red wine, particularly an Italian red. Keep the flavours clean with some crisp, salted Italian-style flatbreads.

Individual wine match Although it comes from the Veneto, which might suggest a Valpolicella Ripasso or even an Amarone, you may want to look elsewhere in Italy for your wine match. It would be a fine pairing for a youngish Piedmontese Barolo or Barbaresco, or even a Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany.

5. Langres Fermier

Washed with Marc de Champagne eau-de-vie, this washed-rind pasteurised cow’s cheese from Fromagerie Remillet, with its distinctive pale orange rind, is not as strong and pungent as it might appear – the interior is creamy, even fudgy. You could pour a little white wine, Champagne or eau-de-vie into the volcanic-style crater at the top for extra flavour. It’s perfect with a baguette.

Individual wine match Given the region it comes from, Champagne would be the perfect match, especially if you’ve splashed a little Champagne on the cheese. (Rosé Champagne goes with younger cheeses, advises Michelson.) An Alsace Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer would work well, too, or if you prefer a red you could go for a southern Rhône Gigondas.

6. Stichelton

According to the regulations, Stilton has to be made with pasteurised milk, but this unpasteurised version from the Welbeck estate in Nottingham comes from exactly the same area and is Stilton in all but name. The raw milk and slightly slower production process results in a creamily textured cheese and some intensely flavoured blue veining, which gives it a satisfyingly deep, savoury character that’s perfect with walnuts and oatcakes.

Individual wine match The recipe may be different but it’s still in essence a Stilton, so think in terms of the usual suspects. Vintage Port, a generous red (Amarone again or maybe a Douro red) or a rich, sweet wine such as a Hungarian Tokaji or a Passito di Pantelleria from Sicily. Michelson also recommends a Vin de Constance

Or choose one cheese…

An alternative to laying out a full cheeseboard would be to serve an individual, show-stopping ‘hero’ cheese: a perfect example of its kind. ‘That’s not a bad option to go for over Christmas when everyone is eating a lot,’ says Michelson. ‘You can always bring out a single cheese just to finish off your wine.’ The obvious choice would be a Vacherin Mont d’Or, which can be served either at room temperature or – particularly decadently – baked so it’s like a fondue. The best match for that, she holds, is a Chignin from Savoie or Savagnin from the Jura in eastern France, or vintage Champagne. Other possibilities would be a truffled Brie, a Beaufort (‘a favourite for New Year’s Eve’), or a Comté which, as Michelson rightly says, ‘everyone loves, from children to adults’. ‘Comté and Vacherin make a good mini cheeseboard,’ she continues, ‘and I’d drink white wine with both.’

Credit: Thomas Skovsende

Credit: Thomas Skovsende

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Jess Meyer

Food editor, woman & Woman’s Own

Growing up in Australia, Christmas signalled the official beginning of a long, hot summer, filled with barbecues, backyard cricket and daily visits to the beach. For my family, like many, this meant dinner was often served al fresco, the festive table laden with colourful salads, a tropical pavlova, and most importantly, truly heroic quantities of seafood, especially prawns – always served cold, shell on, with a simple squeeze of lemon.

Since moving to the UK I’ve embraced many of the comforts that come with a wintry Christmas, swapping the zingy salads for roasted veggies, and the pav for warm butterscotch pud, but the seafood is still the highlight.

These days, the spread has evolved into more of a grazing board, with lots of seasonal favourites like oysters, and plenty of tasty sauces. Whether I’m hosting for two or 20, this flexible feast perfectly sums up the relaxed vibes of Christmas at home.

Seafood platter

Serves 2-3

Prep 15 minutes

For the Champagne mignonette:
2 shallots, finely diced
120ml Champagne vinegar (or use a good quality white wine vinegar)
1-2 tbsp Champagne or sparkling wine (optional)

For the platter:
6 fresh oysters, shucked
12 cooked whole tiger prawns
100g sliced smoked salmon
Lemon wedges, caper berries, dill sprigs, toasted ciabatta, aioli, to serve (optional) Crushed ice and rock salt, to assemble

1. For the mignonette, combine the shallot and vinegar in a small bowl with a pinch of salt, white pepper and caster sugar. Cover and chill until ready to serve (make up to 1 day ahead).

2. To assemble, fill a lipped serving platter with crushed ice and rock salt (this will keep everything nice and cold at the table). Arrange the seafood on the platter, along with the mignonette. Garnish with lemon wedges, dill, caper berries and any other sauces, toppings or accompaniments you fancy.

3. Add the Champagne/sparkling wine to the mignonette and spoon it over the oysters to serve

Jen Bedloe

Group food director, woman&home

I tend to host Christmas and over the years we’ve borrowed ideas and adapted our day to incorporate the kids growing up, and favourite bits from our childhoods. My favourite part of the day is sitting down with Champagne, smoked salmon and paté toasts to open presents. I’d leave the roast to Boxing Day (if I had my way).

We have a few traditions that we stick to, including making my late dad’s cheesy bacon rolls, and we always go to the church nativity (and pub) on Christmas Eve. We tend to mix up the meat element each year. My kids love a juicy rib of beef, but this year I’m planning to make this riff on porchetta with its herby spiced seasoning that will go well with the sides and trimmings.

Credit: Hanna Hughes

Porchetta-style roast pork (with crackling)

An Italian-style roast with wow factor and killer crackling if you ask your butcher to leave the skin on.

Serves 8
Prep 25 minutes, plus overnight marinating
Cook 4 hours

2kg pork belly joint, skin scored (ask your butcher to do this and to score under the skin)
½ bulb garlic, cloves chopped
½ tsp each juniper and allspice
1 bunch thyme, leaves picked
6 sprigs rosemary, leaves picked
Zest 1 orange
5 large banana shallots, halved
Handful sage leaves
Opies pickled pears (optional)
You will need: kitchen string

1. Unroll the pork belly. Combine the garlic, spices, herbs and zest. Rub all over the meat and under the skin, then roll up and tie with kitchen string at intervals to secure the joint. Put on a tray uncovered in the fridge (away from other foods) overnight to marinate and dry out the skin.

2. Heat the oven to 240°C/475°F/gas 9 (or as high as it can go). Put the pork in a roasting tin, then roast for 30-40 minutes to crackle the skin. Turn the heat down to 150°C/300°F/gas 2 for 3hrs 30 minutes until tender, adding the shallots and sage leaves 30 minutes before the end of the cooking time.

3. Let the pork rest, then remove the crackling. Slice the pork thinly and serve with the trimmings and pickled pears, if using.

Georgia Sparks

Food writer, Goodto.com & Chat

My family usually hosts Christmas, and over the years we’ve hosted up to 15 people! A mismatch of chairs and tables gathered together and covered with a tablecloth to mask it. Because of this, we have to be prepped and ready to go, making sure everyone is fed and watered from the moment they step inside. Canapés and Champagne on arrival is how the day begins, while everyone mingles.

One of our favourite canapés is my mum’s cheesy biscuits – buttery, crisp and so light they melt in your mouth. The cheese doesn’t end there though. My mum is a cheesemonger and we take our cheeseboard very seriously. In the early evening she puts on an elaborate spread of cheeses, cold meats and crudités to round off the evening. Somehow there’s always room for cheese!

Credit: Futurecontent.com

Cheddar cheese & chutney biscuits

You’ll never get tired of cooking these cheese biscuits. They’re unbelievably simple to make but taste so good.

Makes 38
Prep 5 minutes
Cook 12-15 minutes

200g Cheddar, grated
200g unsalted butter
200g plain flour
1 tsp mustard powder
2 tbsp chutney

To serve
1 medium egg, beaten
3 tbsp Parmesan, finely grated

1. Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. In a food processor, whizz together all the main ingredients to make a dough.

2. Roll the dough out on a well-floured surface to 0.5cm thickness, and cut into 5cm squares (but go for oddshaped biscuits to help reduce the amount of waste).

3. Transfer to a floured baking tray, then brush with beaten egg and sprinkle with Parmesan. Bake for 12-15 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and allow to cool on the tray.

Rose Fooks

Deputy food editor, Woman’s Weekly

I spent an extravagant (and foie gras-filled) Christmas with my partner’s French family, and I realised just how dear my own family’s version of Christmas is to me. A hodgepodge of traditions, it’s all the small things that make it special… icing the cake with dad, saving the goose fat for a year of crisp roast potatoes, even the grainy chopped liver my mother makes every year before I can remind her to devein the livers.

All these memories hold a special place in my heart. But my most treasured Christmas ritual is making my grandmother’s Vanillekipferl. She would bake these delicate, crescent-shaped almond biscuits dredged in vanilla sugar in abundance. In 1939 my grandmother fled Austria. As a Jewish refugee she could bring little with her, but she never lost the traditions from her Viennese festivities.

Credit: Rose Fooks

Vanillekipferl

Makes 50 biscuits
Prep 25 minutes
Cook 10-12 minutes

175g unsalted butter, cut into cubes
175g plain flour
90g caster sugar
90g ground almonds
1 tsp vanilla essence
about 100g caster sugar, ideally vanilla infused, for coating
You will need: a couple of baking trays lined with baking paper

1. Put the ingredients, apart from the sugar for coating, in a food processor and whizz to a soft dough. Loosely wrap and chill for at least 20 minutes.

2. Heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Break off lumps of the mixture – the size of a big grape. Form each into a ball in the palm of your hand before rolling it into a cylinder about 1cm thick.

3. Shape into a crescent and put on a lined baking tray. Continue until the tray is full, making sure to leave ample space for spreading between each crescent. You may need to cook them in several batches. Bake for 10-12 minutes until just starting to colour.

4. Leave the biscuits on the tray to harden for about 3 minutes before dredging over the sugar while still warm. Transfer to a cooling rack.

5. These keep well stored in an airtight container for a few weeks.

Amanda James

Food writer, Feel Good You

Growing up I had to alternate Christmas between my parents. Still to this day, my mum makes up big stockings for me and my brother and we have to act out that Santa has been and go up to our bedrooms to get our presents.

At mum’s, my duty is to make the panettone bread and butter pudding with marmalade and too much chocolate. At my dad’s I took on the cooking of the Christmas meal. But this year my partner Jack and I will be hosting our first Christmas with our 20-month-old daughter Juno and our whippet Luna.

Along with the traditional bread and butter pudding and the snowball cocktails, I’ll be making a special Christmas cake, but with some of our favourite flavours… fruit and nut with a decent amount of pineapple, salted caramel and a hint of Scotch whisky, a nod to Jack’s family heritage.

Credit: Sean Calitz

Fruit & nut whisky Christmas cake with salted caramel

A modern twist on a traditional classic cake. Packed with fruit and nut, sweetened with salted caramel and a warming splash of whisky, this cake is sure to impress guests over the festive season.

Makes 1 x 23cm cake or serves 12-14
Prep 25 minutes, plus soaking
Cook 2 hours 30 minutes plus cooling

100g dried dates, chopped
100g sultanas
100ml Scotch whisky juice and zest of 1 orange
250g unsalted butter
200g dark soft brown sugar
4 medium free-range eggs
250g plain flour
50g ground almonds
100g pecans, chopped
100g hazelnuts, chopped
100g macadamia nuts, chopped
100g dried pineapple, chopped
100g maraschino cherries, halved
50g toffee, chopped
100g salted caramel

For the cover
3-4 tbsp apricot jam warmed, plus extra for the fondant
1-2 tbsp icing sugar, for dusting
700g golden marzipan

For the decoration
1-2 tbsp icing sugar, for dusting
700g white fondant icing
Red, blue, green, yellow gel food colouring (you can use your favourite colours)
Black, yellow, green, red fondant colours (you can use your favourite colours)
You will need: 20cm at least/ 7cm-8cm deep cake tin greased and lined with baking paper

1. In a bowl add the dates, sultanas, whisky and orange juice. Leave to soak for at least 1 hour. Heat the oven to 160°C/320°F/gas 3.

2. In a large mixing bowl beat the butter with the sugar until fluffy and pale. Beat in the eggs one by one, beating well after each addition. Add the flour and almonds and mix again until combined. Stir through the soaked fruit followed by the chopped nuts, dried pineapple and cherries. Fold in the toffee and salted caramel.

3. Pour into the prepared tin and level out. Dampen your fingers then gently press all over the surface of the batter. This helps prevent it from becoming overly firm during baking. Bake for 1 hour.

4. Reduce the heat to 150°C/300°F/gas 2 and cover with baking paper or foil then put back in the oven for another 1½ hours until cooked through and a skewer poked in comes out clean.

5. Leave the cake to cool in the tin for 10 minutes before transferring it to a wire rack to cool completely. If you are making the cake in advance, wrap the cake in baking paper and cover with foil. Store it in an airtight container.

6. Dust a clean surface with icing sugar and roll out the marzipan so it covers all sides of the cake. Brush the warmed apricot over the cake then carefully drop the marzipan over the top and smooth out, ensuring you cement the sides, too. Cut any excess around the bottom.

7. Dust the surface with more icing sugar and knead 500g white fondant with your chosen gel colour (we used blue). Gently knead to create a marble effect then roll out to the size of the cake. Carefully drop over the marzipan and smooth it out, cutting off any excess fondant around the bottom. Roll out more white fondant to create the white snow-capped hills, and cut using more jam to stick.

8. Use the other gels, white and coloured fondant to create your desired colour. We used the black, yellow and white for the penguin, marbled white with green for the trees, pink and white for the reindeer and yellow for the stars. Leave in an airtight container until ready to serve.

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The post Festive food and wine: Christmas with a twist appeared first on Decanter.

Inspiration: wines to drink with a vegetarian Christmas dinner

Nut roast: Orange wine | Southern Rhône reds | Xinomavro (Naoussa)

Roasted vegetables platter: Chianti Classico | Douro reds

Mezze: Pinot Noir | Mencía (Galicia) | Pétillant naturel

Cheese board: California Chardonnay | Aged Riesling | White Rioja

Scroll down for wine recommendations

For most, Christmas dinner revolves around the idea of a standout meat dish at the centre of the table. Yet this is no longer the rule for everyone; many of us have now switched to vegetarian or vegan diets and it’s hard to hold a celebration without having to accommodate different, meat-free preferences.

Rather than a hindrance, this should be seen as a great opportunity to bring new flavours to the festive table and think of wine pairing possibilities that go beyond the ‘which wine shall I have with turkey’ dilemma.

Best wines to drink with nut roast

The go-to replacement dish for that rebellious vegetarian/vegan friend or relative was, for a long time, the infamous nut roast.

Infamous because many vegetarians will tell you there are a number of more exciting, less obvious and easier-to-cook alternatives (more on that below).

Having said that, a good nut roast is indeed delicious and usually ends up being eaten by everyone! Its crunch and smokiness can actually be compared to that of lamb, namely when spices and herbs are also a central part of the recipe.

The comparable smokiness of an orange wine will be a great fit, as will the herbal profile of a Vacqueyras from the southern Rhône or the trademark tapenade aromas of a Naoussa Xinomavro.

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Choosing wines for vegetarian Christmas: the beauty of simplicity

The truth is that the best vegetarian dishes, while bound to delight even the most avid meat-eater, are simple and based on only a handful of ingredients.

If you’re not vegetarian yourself, pleasing the vegetarian guest is all about integrating the veggie dishes as part of the whole meal, so that everyone can enjoy them – and their accompanying wines, of course.

A nice selection of delicious roasted vegetables, brought to life by the smokiness of the grill, the complexity of spices and the depth of a good olive oil, is a great dish in itself with a dollop of labneh or sprinkled with feta. It also makes a great side for a turkey or meat roast.

And those roasted veggies will handle – and ask for – a structured red, with firm tannins and good concentration, as much as the reddest of meats.

So don’t be afraid to pour the same wine that you’ve selected for the turkey, lamb or ham. A dry Douro red, a Chianti Classico or a Hungarian Kekfrankos will likely do the trick.

Wines for vegetarian mezze

A mezze spread, with delightful dips, a colourful selection of olives, spiced nuts, marinated aubergines and marinated beetroots, is also something you should consider.

It makes a great aperitif selection but also allows guests, vegetarian or not, to nibble throughout the meal.

Pair it with a refined Pinot Noir or a Mencía from Galicia; their fresh minerality will allow you to appreciate the diversity and subtlety of flavours.

Another great option alongside mezze – especially at the start of a meal – would be a refreshing and delicious pétillant naturel wine, also known as pét-nat. The structure, broad palate and restrained effervescence of a pét-nat will deliver such a great balancing act.

Photo by Jez Timms on Unsplash

Cheese, real or fake, but never with red wine

Well now, there’s no Christmas without a proper cheese selection is there?

Although cheese and wine pairing is usually, and outrageously, associated with red wine, it is best to look elsewhere in many cases.

The tannins bind with the fats in the cheese and prevent the full appreciation of all those complex and delicious flavour compounds that the best cheeses have.

Look to structured, medium-to-high acid white wines and this complexity really comes to life. Try a robust California Chardonnay, an aged Mosel Riesling or a white Rioja and you’ll be a little closer to heaven.

Orange wines will again be a good option, because the intensity and high acidity will enhance the umami characters in the cheese. But, once again, you should avoid skin-contact wines with too much tannin.

For vegans, the choice of non-dairy ‘cheese’ is increasingly appealing and diverse.

These are usually made with fermented seeds and nuts, helping them to develop texture and flavours that are, well, very cheesy.

The same wines that pair well with cheese will therefore also be great companions to their vegan counterparts. But it’s worth pointing out that, when considering vegan diets and guests, you will need to make sure that the wine itself is vegan-friendly!

The golden rule: always have good fizz within reach

It’s worth stating the obvious here: always have a good bottle of sparkling wine close by. Not only is it the trademark celebratory drink and the best crowd-pleaser, but it is also the ultimate food pairing wine.

Think past the world of oysters and canapés, because the right fizz can be perfect with a variety of dishes, from roast chicken to pasta with leeks or even cheese.

So it’s worth investing in some good bubbles, which would work equally well as an aperitif or alongside some of the main meal’s dishes. Sparkling wines are often an ideal option when vegetarian dishes take centre stage.

Try an English sparkling rosé with a plate of creamy pasta or a sparkling Vouvray with a nut roast.

And if you’ve never tried a cheese platter with a late-disgorged Champagne, full of toasty aromas and pastry-like flavours, you’d be mad not to have a go.

Ten wines for your vegetarian Christmas meal:

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Great wines with turkey: a food pairing guide

Wine with pork: Advice on great pairings

The 10 rules of food and wine pairing by Karen MacNeil

The post Great wines for a vegetarian Christmas dinner appeared first on Decanter.