Ask Decanter – Decanter https://www.decanter.com The world’s most prestigious wine website, including news, reviews, learning, food and travel Fri, 07 Jun 2024 05:33:00 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://keyassets.timeincuk.net/inspirewp/live/wp-content/uploads/sites/34/2019/01/cropped-Decanter_Favicon-Brand-32x32.png Ask Decanter – Decanter https://www.decanter.com 32 32 Should you put wine in the freezer? - Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/put-wine-in-freezer-ask-decanter-371106/ Fri, 07 Jun 2024 04:00:48 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=371106 Champagne-bottles-broken-in-freezer
You run the risk of bottles exploding if you forget about them in the freezer.

It might seem like the obvious method – but is it the best?

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Champagne-bottles-broken-in-freezer
You run the risk of bottles exploding if you forget about them in the freezer.

We’ve all done it. Friends drop in unexpectedly and you have no fizz or white wine to hand in the fridge. Or you just want to quickly cool down a light red to serve at your summer barbecue.

You pop a bottle in the freezer, assure yourself you’ll remember about it, and then go back to your guests, find something else to quench your thirst and get caught up on conversation or hosting duties.

And later that evening or the next day, when you go to get an icecube for your cocktail or to defrost the sausages, you discover a frozen wine slushie.


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What’s the best advice?

It might seems that the best advice is to never put a bottle of wine in the freezer. But, in fact, so long as you remember it’s there, a freezer is one of many handy methods to quickly chill down your wine (see below for others).

Matt Walls, Decanter‘s Rhône correspondent, recommends putting your wine in the freezer for 22 minutes for lightly chilled, and 28 minutes for fully chilled.

Master Sommelier and restaurateur Xavier Rousset MS shared a top tip for speeding it up further: ‘Wrap the bottle in a wet cloth then put it in the freezer for about 10 minutes.

The most important thing is not to forget about it. Set a timer on your phone or watch so you don’t leave the bottle in there.

Can you put sparkling wine in the freezer?

You can put your sparkling wine, such as Champagne, Prosecco, Cava or Crémant in the freezer. But it’s even more important not to forget about it.

Sparkling wines are more risky, and liable to explode (or at the very least push the cork out) if left in the freezer for too long, due to pressure created by the carbon dioxide, which gives them their bubbles.

That’s why it is probably best to give them a bit less time – a quick 20 minutes in the freezer can help to chill your bottle of Champagne. 

When wine in the freezer is forgotten

Members of the Decanter team have all had their own disasters after putting wine in a freezer.

‘I put a bottle of Champagne, that was an engagement present, in the freezer hoping to drink it that evening,’ said James Button, Decanter’s Regional Editor for Italy. ‘Alas, opened the freezer door about three hours later to discover the neck had parted ways with the body.’

The same thing occurred with a colleague’s birthday present bottle of Laurent-Perrier rosé, which ‘shattered into a million pieces and turned the freezer pink’.

And it’s not just sparkling wines that have potential to burst in the freezer. A 1997 Frédéric Emile Riesling from Alsace house Trimbach became ‘a Riesling and glass ice lolly’ for another unfortunate Decanter staffer.

The fastest way to chill a bottle

You might think freezers have the advantage of speed, but in fact an ice bath is actually a more effective method for quickly cooling down a bottle of wine – in just half the time, in fact.

The key advice is that you shouldn’t just fill a whole container with ice cubes and expect to chill wine in record time. If you use roughly 50% ice and 50% cold water then the chilling process will happen more quickly. The water will help to transfer heat from the bottle.

‘Use plenty of ice cubes (ideally crushed ice) in a bucket with some cold water and lots of salt – yes, salt,’ said Rousset. The salt melts the ice so the water will be cooler faster; salty water also cools faster than pure water.

‘Make sure the bottle is submerged to the top to be more efficient,’ adds Rousset. ‘Your wine should be cool in about 15 minutes.’

Other ways to chill wine

There other ways to keep your wine cool, but these are more effective if the bottle has already been chilled:

  • Ice sleeves are great to keep an already chilled bottle at a cool temperature. It’s worth always having a few in your freezer, ready to go.
  • There are icicle-shaped gadgets you can pop in the neck of your bottle which cools the wine as you pour, though these can be messy.
  • An easy solution is to keep some grapes frozen in your freezer, and pop these in your glass, says Peter Richards MW. They’ll work like ice cubes in wine, but without diluting the wine.

Originally published in 2017 and updated in May 2024. 


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How long does wine last after opening? - Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/putting-wine-fridge-ask-decanter-296127/ Tue, 04 Jun 2024 06:00:53 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=296127 Man in white shirt opening bottle of wine with corkscrew

Some pointers on how long your opened bottle will last...

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Man in white shirt opening bottle of wine with corkscrew

How long can an open bottle of wine last in the fridge?

White and rosé wine

If you’re wondering how long wine can stay drinkable after opening, a bottle of white or rosé wine should be able to keep going for two to three days if kept in the fridge and resealed with the original cork or screwcap.

Sparkling wine

Sparkling wines, such as Prosecco or Champagne, can stay fresh and will keep some fizz for a similar amount of time, but need to be properly sealed – ideally with a specific Champagne bottle stopper which hooks onto the lip of the bottle to prevent it from being forced off due to a build up of carbon dioxide in the bottle.

Champagne expert Tyson Stelzer said that many people would be surprised that an open bottle of sparkling wine will ‘still keep some fizz in the fridge for some days.’

The most reliable way of keeping them fresh is ‘to use a Champagne stopper that provides a tight seal, and to keep the bottle as cold as possible’. So don’t listen to fables about spoons in sparkling wine’s bottle-neck.

Red wine

Red wines can generally last three to five days if stored with a stopper in a cool, dark place, said UK retailer Laithwaites after publishing a study in 2017 on the amount of wine people throw away.

Some lighter styles of red wine can be enjoyed chilled, and although full-bodied reds should be served at 16-18°C, you can still extend the life of an opened bottle by storing it in a temperature-controlled wine fridge or domestic fridge. Of course, factor in time for it to warm up again before drinking.


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Fortified wine

Some fortified wines are built to last and can be kept in the kitchen fridge for several weeks once opened.

In her feature on serving and preserving sweet and fortified wines, Anne Krebiehl MW noted that ruby and reserve Port will last for a few weeks, and Tawny Port could last for up to six weeks in the fridge.

Vintage Port, however, should be drunk up within a few days.

Marsala and Madeira, by contrast, can last for months once opened due to the long exposure to oxygen during the winemaking process, as well as the high acidity present.

Sweet wine

Sweet wines will typically last well when refrigerated. ‘These wines are resilient,’ Aline Baly, co-owner of Château Coutet in Barsac, previously told Decanter. ‘That you can keep a bottle open for more than a week is a fact unknown to many.’

How do I know if a wine has gone off?

As soon as you open a bottle of wine, you expose it to oxygen and – much like an apple browning – it will affect the wine. At first this may beneft the wine, helping it to show all its fruit complexity, however after several hours or days, it reaches a tipping point where it goes from being oxygenated to oxidised.

Things to look out for include fruit aromas and flavours that have become dulled compared to when it was first opened, or a tired colour and in extreme circumstances, even a brownish hue.

Also, look out for vinegary notes, which may be the result of bacteria causing a build-up of acetic acid.

Should I buy a Coravin?

Coravin is a wine preservation system that has been adopted by wine drinkers and top drinking and dining establishments alike. Now with several models, including one specifically for sparkling wines, the company claims that a wine’s life can be extended by days to months depending on the model used.

Coravin works by using a fine, hollow needle to piece the cork and allow you to pour out wine, while simultaneously filling the empty space in the bottle with inert argon gas which forms a barrier against oxygen.

Coravin can also be used with screwcaps and synthetic corks, although you will need to ensure you purchase the screwcap accessory. You will also need to replace the argon capsules from time to time, making Coravin an investment only worth it for those with a large collection of wine they would prefer to sample by the glass than by the bottle.

Should I buy a Vacu Vin?

Vacu Vin is the classic wine preservation device, designed to extend the life of a wine once opened by pumping out the air in the bottle to form a vacuum. From experience, this does work to a limited extent, giving your wine an extra one to two days of life compared to simply replacing the original cork or screw cap. While not preserving wine for as long as Coravin, Vacu Vin has the benefit of being more affordable.


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What to do if your wine cork breaks or crumbles – Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/what-to-do-if-your-wine-cork-breaks-or-crumbles-ask-decanter-385980/ Fri, 31 May 2024 04:00:08 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=385980 image of mixd Bordeaux corks

What to do next? And is the wine in good condition?

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image of mixd Bordeaux corks

If you open enough bottles of older wine, it’s bound to happen to you. While opening a special bottle of wine, you remove the corkscrew only to find bits of cork attached. Staring down into the bottleneck you see the bulk of it remains, despite your best efforts.

The worries are twofold: saving face as one battles with the obvious lack of expertise and, most importantly, preserving the precious wine. Can it still be drunk after a cork disaster?

We’ve asked an expert for techniques and coping strategies. Alexandre Freguin’s first piece of advice is clear: ‘Do not stress. This will only make it worse.’ Freguin, UK Best Sommelier 2018, former head sommelier at Chez Bruce and Famille Perrin brand ambassador, has had to deal with his share of tricky corks.

The most important strategy, particularly in one of the world’s top restaurants, is keeping one’s cool.

The cork has crumbled. Now what?

The simplest and most obvious solution is to find a way to filter the wine. 

‘Clearing the wine from the floating bits of cork is the goal,’ says Freguin. ‘I find that a very thin cloth is particularly useful and works well. Cover a funnel with the cloth and pour the wine into another container, such as a decanter.’

But it’s important that you handle the wine delicately.

‘Be careful. If we are talking about an old and probably fragile wine, I wouldn’t pour the entire bottle out, only until the pieces of cork have fallen on the cloth. Then gently pour the wine back into the bottle.’ The filtration and additional aeration will speed up the process of oxidation and the loss of the more volatile aromas. This has a negative impact on a particularly delicate wine. You might even want to consider, in such cases, filtering directly into the glass.


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If the cork has crumbled, does it mean the wine is faulty?

If a wine has been properly stored horizontally, with liquid in contact with the cork’s inner surface and in a space with enough humidity, the cork should remain hydrated and in good condition. A hydrated cork will keep its flexibility and structure. If the bottles are stored vertically for too long in dry conditions, the cork will soon dry out. It can become brittle and lose its cohesion.

‘Corks can be tricky, especially on older bottles, but they are also a great source of information about the state of conservation and storage of the wine. I will have questions about how the wine was cellared if the cork just falls apart,’ says Freguin.

It might mean that the wine has had unwanted contact with oxygen, possibly for a long time, and is, therefore not in an optimum condition. So, taste carefully before serving the wine to guests. But a crumbling cork does not necessarily mean that the wine’s quality has been compromised.

‘Some of the best bottles of wine I have tasted have had the worst cork condition,’ says Clement Robert MS, director of wine and spirits at Liquid Icons. In most cases the wine will still be fine to drink, as it should still have been kept with a protective seal.

One thing to keep in mind, this does not mean the wine is corked.

‘One of the most common misconceptions is that the small bits of deteriorated cork in contact with the wine will make it ‘corked.’ But you can rest easy, that’s not the case,’ says Robert.

Cork taint is not a product of cork itself; it happens due to the presence of a chemical compound (TCA), which can occur in any cork, old or new, dry or moist. If it isn’t there to begin with, then it won’t be there when the cork breaks.

 Is there a foolproof way to avoid breaking corks?

The quick answer is no. You might have the best corkscrew on the market, and you might have done it a million times before. Corks crumble and break even at the hands of the most experienced sommeliers. This is especially true for old bottles which have not been stored correctly, leaving the cork dry and crumbly.

Sommeliers recommend having a two-prong opener, also known as butler’s thief, on hand and using it on older wines or if the cork looks like it may be prone to breaking.

The butler’s thief is essentially a handle with two flat metal prongs attached. They are sprung so that when you work them (cautiously) down the sides of a cork that looks/feels like it may crumble, they apply some inward pressure to the potentially dodgy cork.

Once you’ve persuaded the prongs far enough down between the cork and the inner side of the bottleneck – start with the longer of the two and use a slight lateral motion as you progress rather than pressing directly down – that pressure enables you to begin pulling up while rotating the cork out of the bottleneck.

You might even want to consider using the two-prong opener and a corkscrew simultaneously. The latter’s spiral creates more inner pressure against the prongs, allowing the cork to remain more compact while being pulled by the prongs. There is a new product on the market called the Durand, which combines these two traditional wine openers.

The cork has broken… Now what?

Suppose you don’t have an alternative tool, and you’re stuck with a broken cork. In that case, half of it still blocks the bottleneck, meaning you can’t even filter the wine. You have two options: continue trying with your corkscrew, inserting it carefully and pulling the cork in one go instead of twisting, or simply concede and push the cork down into the bottle.

If this happens, remember to use the handle of a teaspoon to keep the cork down while pouring to prevent wine from spurting. It’s not the most elegant solution, but it serves the ultimate purpose: drinking the wine.


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How to read wine tasting notes - Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/how-to/how-to-read-tasting-notes-51254/ Fri, 24 May 2024 04:00:00 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/news/how-to-read-tasting-notes-51254/

Decanter experts help you to cut through the jargon...

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Do you ever find it difficult to read wine tasting notes?

Wine tasting will always have a subjective, personal quality, because taste and smell are so inextricably bound to an individual’s own reference points. Language, too, is both collective and individual, and you may identify more with one wine critic over another.

But, there are some common wine descriptive words that it is useful to know, and can help you understand what to expect from a style of wine.

As well as flavours, tasting notes can tell you about other aspects of the wine. Andrew Jefford wrote in his guide to writing wine tasting notes ‘a wine’s structure, shape and texture are just as interesting as its aroma and flavour.’

‘[Texture] is what really separates the great from the merely good,’ said Berkmann Wine Cellars purchasing director Alex Hunt MW, in Victoria Moore’s guide to wine tasting.


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Wine tasting notes: how much is too much?

There has been debate about the use of overly descriptive tasting notes in the wine world, as Andrew Jefford discussed in his 2015 column.

‘Each contender is trying to outdo the other, and bludgeon their rivals to death by adjectival force of arms.’

But at the same time, overly bland notes do not communicate anything.

‘Conservative, restrained wine descriptions are tedious, repetitive and soporific, and utterly fail to evoke the excitement of smelling and tasting wine,’ wrote Jefford.

When writing tasting notes, Jefford advises to keep use analogical descriptors in moderation – half a dozen at the most.

‘Keep it simple when it comes to tasting notes,’ wine educator Kevin Zraly told Victoria Moore.

Below is what our experts put together.

Reading wine tasting notes

Dry white wines

Credit: Patrick Grabham / Decanter

Example wine: Louis Latour, Meursault, 1998

Tasting Note: Clean, limpid medium yellow with a hint of green, quite rich, a really lovely colour. Touch of new wood on the nose, ripe melony fruit, slightly exotic, stylish and very expressive. Fine, floral, honeysuckle fruit on the palate, with hazelnut overtones, rich and quite buttery, yet good lemony acidity, very elegant but still young. Very good balance, oak and fruit well blended in, an excellent example of grape variety dominated by terroir, great persistence, very good future.

  • limpid – literally transparent, like clear water, while retaining its colour
  • rich – showing ripeness and viscosity, usually from the legs or ‘tears’ that form on the sides of the glass than from depth of colour
  • new wood – the vanilla-vanillin aroma of new oak, whether French or American
  • melony – signifies ripe, slightly exotic fruit, usually referring to Chardonnay. More exotic fruits could be pineapple, guava
  • expressive – expressive of either its grape variety, terroir or both. Stylish + expressive would be a finely turned out wine with character
  • floral – usual on the nose, but on the palate means the blend of florality and flavour
  • honeysuckle/hazelnut – typical expressions of a the Chardonnay grown in Meursault, rounded and attractive
  • buttery – the impression of ripeness with a certain fleshiness, often the result of barrel fermentation or barrel ageing

Aromatic and sweet white wines

Credit: Patrick Grabham / Decanter

Example wine: Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes, 1er Cru Classé 1985 

Tasting note: Pure gold in colour, with hints of yellow still and no amber. Floral, honeyed-peach and apricot, an impression of great sweetness but not over-heady . Honey and lanolin flavours on the palate, rich barley sugar sweetness, great fruit extract, good botrytis, luscious, classy finish. A fully sweet Sauternes from a fine year, tasting superbly at 15 years, with as long again in front of it.

  • gold – a golden colour indicates both original ripeness and sweetness as well as maturity. In 10 years time the golden colour will have taken on an amber glow, and the colour will progress from gold to amber as it matures further
  • floral – on the nose the smell of flowers or blossom as opposed to the smell of fruits
  • honeyed – many sweet wines do literally smell of honey, but hear it refers to ripe concentration and richness that is epitomised by the smell of honey
  • peach / apricot – the aroma of these stone fruits is also found in aromatice wines from the Viognier grape, and denotes warm, summery ripeness
  • heady – concentration of richness that literally goes to one’s head. An over-heady wine would be over-powering and unbalanced
  • lanolin – a smooth, creamy impression often associated with the Semillon grape at advanced ripeness, the opposite of tart
  • barley sugar – concentrated sweetness, but not sugary
  • botrytis – the effect of reducing the water in the grapes, thus increasing the sugars, when they are attacked by pourriture noble, or noble rot

Light red wines

Credit: Patrick Grabham / Decanter

Example wine: Allegrini, Valpolicella Classico Superiore 1998 

Tasting note: Brick red colour, very fresh and young looking. Fine, rose-like like bouquet, some sweetness in attack, drier on the second nose. Clean, cherry-like fruit flavours on the palate, a hint of wood and a touch of bitter almonds, good balance, long, dry finish. Fine long flavour despite the liveliness, natural acidity present, a wine for food.

  • brick red – denotes the absence of violet or purple colours of some very young wines, more a lack of intensity than a sense of maturity
  • rose-like – a delicate aroma, yet with a certain ripeness, always floral
  • attack – the strong first impression, one that jumps out of the glass
  • second nose – the more studied reflection gained by swirling the wine in the glass to release more than it does on the first impression
  • cherry-like – unless cited as ‘black cherries’ which carry a definite impression of ripeness, cherry-like indicates firm, vibrant fruit with a touch of acidity and none of the sweetness of, say, blackcurrants
  • wood – a sense of firmness and tannin, as opposed to ‘oaky’, which refers to the new casks in which the wine will have been aged
  • bitter almonds – often associated with cherries, a certain fruity bitterness, more refreshing than unpleasant
  • food – wines with exuberant, unrestrained fruit do not go well with food, for their fruitiness dominates. A ‘food wine’ is one that complements a meal

Medium-bodied red wines

Credit: Patrick Grabham

Example wine: Château Léoville-Barton, St-Julien, 2ème Cru Classé 1990

Tasting note: Deep colour, velvety red, no real sign of ageing, still very youthful and firm berry fruits on the nose, heavily Cabernet in style, blackcurrant leaf, with a cedar wood / cigar box spice coming through, concentrated fragrance followed by rich fruit. Same concentrated, tightly knit fruit on the palate, wonderful ripeness, still showing youthful black currants and blackberries, firm backbone but ripe tannins, superb structure. Overall, a classic Medoc from a top chateau in a great vintage. Ripe enough to enjoy now, but still a long way off its best, which should be during its third decade.

  • velvety – a deep, rich smooth looking colour that always denotes very good ripeness at vintage time
  • firm – Reserved and with potential to develop, a positive description, not to be confused with “hard”, which is generally negative
  • berry fruits – small red fruits, covering the berry, cherry and the currant families. Individual red varietals tend when young to be dominated by one or two of these red fruits
  • cedar wood / cigar box – cedar wood is a characteristic of semi-mature and mature Cabernet-dominant wines especially from the Medoc, owing more to the style of wine than to oak ageing. Cigar box is similar – found in many Cabernet & Merlot wines
  • tightly knit – flavours that are firmly woven together, not loose or diffuse, shows good potential for development
  • backbone – an essential element for a well-structured wine
  • tannins – substance existing in the skin and pips of a grape that is necessary for the long development of a red wine. Tannin can also be obtained from the oak barrels in which such wines are matured
  • structure – a sense of solidity that has more to do with each element holding together than with weight

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How to store Champagne at home https://www.decanter.com/learn/how-to-store-champagne-at-home-266842/ Thu, 16 May 2024 05:00:30 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=266842 image of champagne bottles in the cellar at Bollinger
The wine cellar of the French champagne house Bollinger.

Top tips on how to get the basics right...

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image of champagne bottles in the cellar at Bollinger
The wine cellar of the French champagne house Bollinger.

Here are three things to keep in mind if you’re planning to store Champagne at home:

Some experts say, surprisingly, that it’s best to store Champagne and sparkling wines standing up.

I agree that this is the best and most practical method for short-term storage, say, up to one month. However, keep the bottles away from bright or artificial light.

Long-term storage of vintage cuvées is quite another matter. These bottles should be stored on their sides in a wine rack or stacked the same way as in a cellar.

Fine maturing Champagne, like all great wine, runs the risk of the cork drying out if it is kept upright for long periods.


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The actual temperature of storage (ideally about 7°C to 10°C) is less important than its constancy.

Wild fluctuations of heat and cold kill all good wine, so avoid storing bottles in the kitchen and never in the garage or shed.

How to store Champagne: Bottle vs magnum

For laying down Champagne, forget about half-bottles. Their capacity to age is very erratic, and the wine ages too fast.

While standard bottles (75cl) age well and at a moderate rate if properly stored, magnums (1.5 litres) are the best format for long-term ageing.

That’s because the ratio of wine to surface area allows for a slower, more even maturation of the wine and finer enduring flow of bubbles.

In most cases, the magnum beats the bottle for added complexity, structure and nuances in the wine for 20 to 30 years.

This is an excerpt from an article that first appeared in Decanter magazine in 2015. Copy editing for Decanter.com in 2021 by Chris Mercer and by Clive Pursehouse in 2024.

Six of the best vintage Champagnes for your cellar from 2013 to 2019

Recently reviewed by our experts for Decanter Premium subscribers. Listed by oldest vintage first.


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What do Tannat wines taste like? https://www.decanter.com/learn/tannat-red-52146/ Fri, 12 Apr 2024 07:00:09 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/news/tannat-red-52146/ Tannat wine grapes
Tannat grapes during harvest at Bouza winery in Melilla, Uruguay, in March 2023.

Pour yourself a glass to mark Tannat day on 14 April...

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Tannat wine grapes
Tannat grapes during harvest at Bouza winery in Melilla, Uruguay, in March 2023.

What kind of wine is made from Tannat?

Red wines made from the Tannat grape variety are classically deep-hued and intense with a lush kernel of black fruit, from plums to black cherry and cassis.

They are also generally wrapped in plenty of tannins that can range from bold to fine-grained and supple, with decisions in the vineyard and the cellar resulting in varying styles.


Scroll down to see tasting notes & scores for 15 top Tannat wines


Balance is always the key, though, and some of the best recent examples integrate the grape variety’s tannin content with natural acidity and bright fruit.

You can also find Tannat being used to make rosé wines, as well as in blends alongside other grape varieties.

Decanter‘s US editor, Clive Pursehouse, enjoyed discovering this pét-nat wine produced from 100% Tannat in Oregon, too. ‘The palate is lively, fresh and delicate,’ he wrote last year.

Madiran

In Madiran, Tannat’s traditional heartland of south-west France, you might find Tannat blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc.

Producers have been working with ways to manage tannin content in the wines to ensure a harmonious balance with other elements, according to the region’s wine body.

Lauded wine producer Alain Brumont is known for pioneering a new wave of pure Tannat wines in Madiran, launching his Château Montus Prestige in 1985.

Yohan Castaing tasted several vintages at a Montus and La Tyre vertical in 2022, including the 2000.

‘A gorgeously fleshy mouthfeel, brimming with energy, lengthening a finish that consolidates its profound substance but also reveals surprising subtlety and delicacy. This vintage joins the ranks of the great ones,’ Castaing wrote.

It’s possible to make lighter styles of Tannat varietal wines, too. This cooperative-made Madiran is 90% Tannat and shows a ‘lighter touch’ with supple tannins yet opulent fruit, according to Decanter’s Stephen Brook.

This Plaimont, Château de Crouseilles wine is 100% Tannat. It’s ‘robust, brooding and tannic enough to pair well with full-flavoured meat dishes, but has plenty of ripe dark fruit to balance the power’, said Decanter’s Amy Wislocki. 

Tannat in Uruguay: A new ‘Malbec’ story?

Uruguay has been making a name for itself with fascinating styles of Tannat.

Patricio Tapia also wrote about the diversity of Tannat wines in the country in an Expert’s Choice article on Uruguay for Decanter magazine in 2023.

In Canelones, he wrote, ‘clay and chalk soils offer much more austere and monolithic versions of Tannat – wines that perhaps lack the fruity explosion of their Maldonado counterparts, but which still develop in the bottle like few other reds in South America.’

Jane Anson wrote in 2017 that Uruguay was the only country to have taken in Tannat as its national grape, a move that inevitably invites comparisons with how Argentina reimagined Malbec.

‘Estates like Bodega Garzon – located in a coastal village of the same name, close to Punta del Este by coincidence – have produced a more contemporary-styled version that is helping to smooth Tannat’s image of rustic, hard tannins in international markets,’ Anson wrote.

Tannat wines around the world

You’ll also find the grape variety in some other parts of the wine world, including the US.

This example from Michael Shaps in Virginia balances a tannic, full-bodied palate with lively acidity, wrote Lauren Mowery for Decanter last year.

In South Africa, wine writer Malu Lambert enjoyed this 100% Tannat from Lowerland Wines: ‘Soft and supple from 10 months’ ageing in older oak, the palate bursts with black cherries and blackcurrants.’


See tasting notes and scores for 15 top Tannat wines


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Vin Jaune explained https://www.decanter.com/wine/vin-jaune-explained-489306/ Tue, 24 Oct 2023 07:47:29 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=489306

Decanter explores the factors defining this unique style...

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Frequently overlooked by consumers, this rare style of wine is as confusing as it comes. From its ‘yellow’ name to its squat-sized bottle to its unique, nutty flavour profile, it’s easy to understand why Vin Jaune doesn’t always get the love it deserves. Those in the know are aware that these special wines offer some of the most enjoyable, thought-provoking drinking experiences on the planet, however. Still don’t fully understand the style? We’re breaking down everything you need to know about it here.

Vin Jaune explained

The commune of Arbois in the Jura. Credit: Vicki Denig

What is Vin Jaune?

Produced in the Jura region of eastern France, Vin Jaune is a dry style of white wine crafted from the Savagnin grape. Additionally – and most importantly – the wine ages for 6+ years under a thin layer of yeast (called sous voile ageing in France) prior to bottling, which helps the wine achieve its distinguishable flavour characteristics. ‘Vin Jaune is similar in style and flavour to Fino Sherry, except for the fact that it’s non-fortified,’ said Lauren McPhate, Director of Sales at Tribeca Wines. ‘This sous voile ageing imparts distinctly aldehydic flavours of brine, curry and nuts,’ she commented.

Courtney Wieland, Director of Private Clients at Thatcher’s Wine Consulting, added that Savagnin destined for Vin Jaune is harvested later, so as to achieve higher potential alcohol after fermentation. ‘Fermentation occurs slowly and the wine is not topped up, which allows for the voile to grow,’ she said, adding that in addition to playing a huge role in the final wine’s flavour profile, the voile also protects the wine from oxidation.

Why should I drink it?

Wieland revealed that outside of Sherry, there are few wines like Vin Jaune on the market – and the two styles aren’t exactly interchangeable. ‘When you take a closer look, or taste, it is far different from Sherry and quite unique,’ she said, highlighting that in addition to being produced from different grape varieties in different soils, Vin Jaune does not undergo fortification in the way that Sherry wines do. ‘The natural environment in the Jura cellars supports the creation of the yeasts. This defines Vin Jaune and separates it from other wines made in a similar way, creating a singular wine that can age indefinitely,’ she said.

What does it taste like?

According to McPhate, the unique cellar conditions and production methods used to create Vin Jaune define the ‘extreme style’ of the wine. ‘It’s bone dry, has a full and unctuous body, and intensely complex flavours – there are no other still wines like it,’ she said. McPhate described the wine’s partial cask ageing – which imparts gentle oxidation – plus the sous voile ageing (which keeps oxygen at bay) as creating a ‘supremely unique wine of paradoxes that is crisp yet heady, and complex yet nuanced’. Flavours often associated with Vin Jaune include toasted nuts, dried apricots, curry, mushroom, toast and brine.

Why the Clavelin?

Simply put, tons of evaporation. McPhate explained that due to the vinification and ageing process of six plus years, a good deal of wine is lost in the process. ‘Because of the length of the winemaking, a significant portion of the wine evaporates over time (called the angel’s share), and so it is bottled in a special Clavelin of just 62cl,’ she said.

Who would most enjoy Vin Jaune?

‘Vin Jaune is a premium wine for a highly engaged consumer,’ McPhate said, noting that the intense flavours and bone dry style will likely appeal to Sherry drinkers, or ‘adventurous winos looking for something way outside the everyday box’. She also mentioned that given the wine’s pungency and long, layered finish, the style could also greatly appeal to whisky drinkers.

Wieland stated that although she often reaches for Vin Jaune at the end of a meal, this versatile style of wine can be enjoyed at any point in the experience. ‘Some people think that you can only drink Sherry, Champagne or other styles of wine – Vin Jaune included – to start or end a meal, and that’s simply not true,’ she said, stating that the wine pairs beautifully with a variety of generous sauces and heartier dishes (and is equally enjoyable on its own without food).

On that note – don’t forget the food pairings

Credit: Hemis / Alamy Stock Photo

Wieland noted that if you haven’t been exposed to Vin Jaune or Sherry before, tasting it for the first time can be quite a shock. Her suggestion? Pair it alongside food to see what the wine can do, then venture further. ‘Comté cheese is an awesome pairing – it is a classic for a reason,’ she revealed. ‘If you enjoy Sherry or more esoteric wines, it is definitely something you will enjoy.’

Additionally, McPhate noted that signature autumn flavours of savoury mushrooms and pungent curries are also excellent pairings, though when in doubt, Comté reigns king. ‘To convince even the most sceptical of this rather unexpected style, one simply needs to have a piece of 24-month Comté cheese with a taste. There are few more profound pairings!’


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What happens if your wine cooler is unplugged in a heatwave? https://www.decanter.com/learn/wine-cooler-unplugged-temperature-ask-decanter-442597/ Tue, 04 Jul 2023 07:00:50 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=442597 Bottles of wine in a wine fridge

Will the wine be damaged?

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Bottles of wine in a wine fridge

A Decanter reader in the UK said their Swisscave wine cooler was turned off for nine days during a heatwave, with temperatures hitting 30 degrees Celsius at certain times.

They said the fridge is in a first-floor flat but not in direct sunlight. What might be the long-term effects on the wines, which are part of a growing collection intended for extended ageing?


What happens if your wine cooler is unplugged in a heatwave?

Swisscave’s MD and founder, Hanspeter Jaeger, and expert David Way, of the UK-based Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET), highlighted several things to consider but were generally optimistic about the wines’ prospects – particularly given the short period of potential exposure to higher temperatures.

A wine cooler or fridge aims to replicate gold standard storage conditions. This is not only to avoid heat spikes, but also to prevent regular fluctuations in temperature.

‘The conventional wisdom is that wine intended for long-term ageing should be kept in conditions similar to an underground cellar with a temperature in the range of 10–15°C, in the dark and with no vibration,’ said David Way, wine qualifications developer at the WSET.

‘If a wine fridge is unplugged and the air temperature rises to 30°C, then the rising temperature will affect the speed at which the wine develops and, in extreme cases, age [the wines] prematurely and irreversibly,’ said Way.

However, there are several variables.

These range from the temperature of the fridge before its was switched off to the length of time wines are exposed to higher temperatures and the number of bottles in the fridge.

‘The air temperature is not necessarily the same as the temperature of the wine in the bottle,’ said Way.

Even with the cooler unplugged, he also said ‘the wine will have had some protection from both the insulation in the fridge and, further, from the thermal mass of the number of bottles stored together that had originally been refrigerated’.

The more bottles, the bigger the insulation effect. ‘A large fridge that contains 180 bottles will give more protection and for longer than a small fridge with 12 bottles.’

Where wine is exposed to excess heat, some studies have shown that this can reduce levels of SO2, causing a ‘browning of the colour’. This is particularly visible in white wines, he said.

‘However, the good news is that wines intended for long-term ageing typically are to a degree more resilient to the ageing process.’

He added, ‘In comparison to simple wines made for early consumption, they have greater fruit concentration, sometimes higher acidity and, in the case of red wines, colour molecules and tannins which give greater protection to the wine.’

Highly tannic reds should withstand heat better than lighter styles, such as Pinot Noir.

A note of caution would be that some studies have shown that white wines can lose fruity aromas if stored for seven days at 26.6°C (80°F), versus a control sample at 18°C, Way added.

‘When wine was stored at 30°C for a year, it developed faulty characteristics, while wine stored at 40°C showed changes in colour and flavours after only a few days.’

In summary, however, Way said, ‘If the fridge was big enough and cool enough originally, and the exposure to heat was only a matter of a few days, it is likely that the wine will not have been damaged, even if it will for that short period have aged a little more rapidly.’

Humidity and temperature

Swisscave’s MD and founder, Hanspeter Jaeger, said that he wouldn’t expect ‘anything noticeable’ to happen to the wine if exposed to ambient temperatures over a short period of time, such as weeks or even months.

He said it was ‘certainly a different story’ if bottles are exposed to frequently changing temperatures or even 30°C heat with very dry humidity for a longer time, such as years rather than months.

‘Many wine lovers have this scenario in mind and get nervous when their wine bottles are at ambient temperatures for days or weeks. They should not,’ said Jaeger.

‘Low levels of humidity will, over time, damage your wine,’ said Sebastian Riley-Smith, founder and MD of Smith & Taylor, in the latest issue of Decanter magazine.

‘Fine wine should be stored at 65-70%, allowing the best corks to permit only 1mg of oxygen to enter the bottle per year. This moderates the process of wine developing complexity, softening tannins, and keeps the identity and vital statistics secured to your bottles.’

One potential issue in the shorter-term was that higher temperatures can cause the wine bottle to expand slightly, he said.

‘If the cork is not perfect (and many corks are not), then it may happen that a little wine presses through the cork to the outside. Now there is a liquid bridge between inside and outside, which over time (several months or longer) can bring oxygen to the inside. If this happens the wine may go bad.’

He said that in a situation ‘where the wine was at a very high temperature for weeks, I would advise [people] to check the corks’ – although this can be difficult depending on the bottle. If wine spots are visible on the cork, then it may be better to drink the contents of the bottle sooner.

Callum Dooley, director and UK sales manager of Elite Wine Refrigeration – official UK partner to Swisscave – also said that the thermal mass of the wines inside the fridge should mean that ‘it will only be a few days where the wine may have been slightly warm’.

Published in August 2020 and updated in June 2021. 


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How to store Champagne at home

How to read wine tasting notes

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Which countries drink the most wine? Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/wine-news/which-countries-drink-the-most-wine-ask-decanter-456922/ Wed, 24 May 2023 07:00:57 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=456922 Wine bottles in Napa; the US topped a list of which countries drink the most wine in a new OIV report.
The US drank the most wine overall last year, but Portugal topped chart on a per capita basis, says OIV.

The US is still the biggest market, suggest new estimates...

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Wine bottles in Napa; the US topped a list of which countries drink the most wine in a new OIV report.
The US drank the most wine overall last year, but Portugal topped chart on a per capita basis, says OIV.

The US has continued to top the list of which countries drink the most wine in terms of total volume, according to preliminary figures for 2023 released by the International Organisation of Vine & Wine (OIV). 

However, the country was not immune as global wine consumption fell 2.6% in 2023 to hit a 27-year low, at 221m hectolitres (mhl) – 22.1bn litres – said OIV estimates.

Wine consumption in the US dropped by an estimated 3%, to 33.3m hectolitres, and second-placed France also saw a decline of 2.4%, to 24.4mhl.   

Top 10 countries that drink the most wine

Here is an updated list of the 10 countries that drink the most wine, according to OIV’s preliminary figures for 2023.

  • US: 33.3mhl, down 3% versus 2022
  • France: 24.4mhl, down 2.4%
  • Italy: 21.8mhl, down 2.5%
  • Germany: 19.1mhl, down 1.6%
  • UK: 12.8mhl, down 2.9%
  • Spain: 9.8mhl, up 1.7%
  • Russia: 8.6mhl, up 3%
  • Argentina: 7.8mhl, down 6.2%
  • China: 6.8mhl, down 24.7%
  • Portugal: 5.5mhl, down 9.2%

Source: OIV

In the chart above, the US accounts for around 15% of the world’s total wine consumption.

All of the top five market saw volume declines in 2023, suggested the OIV estimates, although China showed the biggest year-on-year drop, falling by more than a fifth. 

Portugal maintained its place in the top 10, despite falling 9%, and it’s worth noting that consumption in the country was close to 2019 levels.

The UK was between consumption levels reported in 2018 and 2019. 

A mix of inflationary pressures on wineries’ costs and household budgets contributed to consumption declines in 2023, said the OIV. Demographic and lifestyle changes may also have been a factor. 

Wine exports also dropped in value globally last year, by 4.7% to an estimated €36bn, but that’s still the second highest total on record.

Which country drinks the most wine per person?

On a per capita basis, the leaderboard looks quite different.

Portugal topped the charts again in 2023, on 61.7 litres per capita, way ahead of France and Italy in second and third place respectively. 

There is then a gap to fourth-placed Switzerland, showed the preliminary OIV figures. 

The US was ranked 15th on the per capita list, on 12.1 litres, behind 11th-placed UK on 23 litres per capita.

According to the OIV, the top 10 countries in terms of per capita wine consumption are:

  • Portugal: 61.7 litres per capita
  • France: 45.8 litres
  • Italy: 42.1 litres
  • Switzerland: 31.8 litres
  • Austria: 30.1 litres
  • Germany: 26.6 litres
  • Australia: 25.5 litres
  • Czech Republic: 24.4 litres
  • Spain: 24 litres
  • Netherlands: 23.1 litres

Source: OIV

Things have changed a lot in the last few decades.

Wine consumption in France has fallen by around 70% since 1960, according to industry groups Vin & Société and CNIV (Comité National des Interprofessions des Vins à appellation d’origine et à indication géographique).  

A chart shared by the American Association of Wine Economists (AAWE) on Twitter (now ‘X’) in 2021 showed how wine consumption in four big European producer nations has evolved over much of the past century.

That chart is from the ‘annual database of global wine markets’, made freely available by the University of Adelaide’s Wine Economics Research Centre, and created by professor Kym Anderson and economic history professor Vicente Pinilla, with the assistance of A.J. Holmes.  


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Best wine with steak: What to choose https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/wine-steak-ask-decanter-400770/ Mon, 03 Apr 2023 07:00:08 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=400770 A raw steak with seasoning
Lots of wine styles can work with a steak dinner.

Mouthwatering suggestions for your next steak night...

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A raw steak with seasoning
Lots of wine styles can work with a steak dinner.

Five classics for red wine with steak

    • Cabernet Sauvignon
    • Malbec
    • Grenache / Shiraz blends
    • Syrah / Shiraz
    • Sangiovese

An evening with a succulent, juicy steak and a delicious bottle of wine is one of life’s great pleasures, at least for meat lovers.

It’s always fun to experiment when it comes to wine and food pairing but here are some go-to styles and things to consider if you’re preparing a special steak dinner.

Red wine with steak

Malbec red wines have become a classic match with steak, largely thanks to the Argentina-led reincarnation of this grape variety on the global wine stage plus also the country’s reputation for high quality beef.

Malbec’s lush dark fruit and natural tannin are considered to match-up well with a good steak in general, but some experts suggest searching for fresher styles.

‘I tend to choose a ‘new wave’ Malbec, one with less oak, fresher fruit and better acidity,’ said South American wine expert and journalist Patricio Tapia, when regional chair for Argentina at the Decanter World Wine Awards.

‘Especially ones coming from places like Altamira and Gualtallary in the Uco Valley, towards the Andes Mountains.’ he added. ‘Always keep in mind that the main task for a glass of wine is to refresh the food.’

Cabernet Sauvignon wines, with their blend of dark fruits, tannin and naturally high acidity, are another classic choice if you’re looking to pour a full-bodied red.

‘A powerful California Cabernet Sauvignon with a grilled steak is pretty hard to beat,’ said wine expert Karen MacNeil in her 10 rules to food and wine pairing.

More options for red wine with steak

‘I’d urge people to look beyond the traditional matches of Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon with steak,’ Peter Richards MW told Decanter.

‘How about a nice lively Cabernet Franc? Or may even a Carignan, Cinsault or cool-climate Syrah? Even a full-bodied but elegant rosé can work well on a warm day,’ said Richards, who is DWWA regional chair for Chile.

He said he enjoyed red wines that have body and texture but that could also refresh the palate during a steak dinner. ‘The risk with steak is to think big meaty flavours equals big wine.’

Does Pinot Noir go with steak? 

Most Pinot Noir wines tend to sit at the light to medium-bodied end of the spectrum, and its profile is often therefore paired-up with lighter meats.

Yet Pinot Noir’s natural acidity and bright, red berry fruit can work with your steak dinner, depending on the style and the cut.

In general, think about trying this with leaner cuts, such as fillet, cooked rare to medium-rare.

‘I don’t normally think of Pinot Noir as a match for steak, but the best pairing by far, when the meat was cooked rare, was a classically silky, seductive Daniel Rion, Vosne-Romanée 2001,’ wrote food and wine expert Fiona Becket after tasting several fine wines with steak for Decanter magazine back in 2007.

How to cut it: Do you want a wine with ribeye steak or fillet?

‘The easiest way to pair wine with beef is to think about matching the flavour intensity of your wine with your beef,’ said Mark Quick, wine director for Hawksmoor steakhouse restaurants, in this in-depth article on pairing wine with beef.

Consider the fat content in your meat, for example. ‘More fat equals more intense beefy flavour,’ said Quick, speaking to Decanter in December 2020.

In her 2007 article on pairing different cuts, Beckett said a ribeye steak with relatively high fat content worked well with a Côte-Rôtie from the Syrah stronghold of the Northern Rhône, and also a SuperTuscan – ‘both generous, ripe and full-bodied.’

She also recommended riper, more fruit-driven styles of red for steak cooked well-done.

Sauce matters

‘Sauces and sides will also be just as important when it comes to the choice of wine,’said Richards. ‘Creamy sauces like béarnaise can go well with an oakier wine. Syrah can work well with peppercorns.’

White wine with steak

Why not ignore the raised eyebrows and forget the long-established mantra that a steak dinner is no place for white wine?

Discovery is, after all, one of the most exciting things about the wine world. In an article from our archive, Matthieu Longuère MS, of Le Cordon Bleu London, talks about possibilities for pairing white wine with steak and other red meat.

Options range from a mature white Rioja to thinking about how to subtly adapt the meal to suit other styles, such as Pinot Grigio, he wrote.


Wine with steak: Recent reviews by our experts


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See all food and wine pairing articles

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Dosage, behind the scenes https://www.decanter.com/learn/dosage-behind-the-scenes-497768/ Fri, 17 Feb 2023 09:30:48 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=497768

Behind the scenes at Rathfinny Wine Estate's dosage tasting...

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When it comes to house style and bubbly, few wine lovers give much thought to dosage – after all, the amount of sugar added to the wine after disgorgement and just before bottling is tiny in the scheme of things, less than 12g/L in a Brut Champagne or sparkling wine (see box below).

But the winemakers behind these cuvées understand just how much difference a gram – even half a gram – can make to the taste and overall balance of what’s in the bottle. Some producers, after arriving at a preferred level of dosage, will stick to the same (or as near as) dosage for each vintage, and / or across their range, in a bid to create a house style. Others are more open to varying the dosage according to the style of the vintage, tasting varied permutations every year before deciding on the best recipe for the year.

Vintage variation

At Rathfinny Wine Estate in East Sussex, owner Mark Driver is such a strong believer that vintage should be key to the style of the wines that he has chosen not to include a non-vintage cuvée in the line-up. So it follows that he would be open to varying the dosage to best fit the style of wine that weather conditions have produced in a given year. 

With the 2019 vintage about to be bottled, Decanter was invited to join the winemaking team at the tasting to decide the dosage for the Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs cuvées for that year. Driver explains why Rathfinny takes dosage so seriously: ‘It’s like seasoning,’ he says, ‘and we use it to enhance the existing profile of the wine without adding new flavours and textures. Sugar is a transport mechanism, and it helps to balance all the elements.’

Happy medium

Driver doesn’t want the wines to be jarringly dry – though jokes that the sommelier community would like all their sparkling wines at 0g/L or 1g/L. ‘When they’re bone-dry, wines can have little spikes,’ he says, ‘and even adding just 1g or 2g/L can help bring things to life.’ Also, he points out, sugar is a preservative and so wines with zero dosage don’t develop as well in bottle, in his view. That said, he doesn’t favour a high dosage either. ‘Too sweet, and the dosage will shorten the length and flatten the fruit flavours.’ The vineyard site – on a south-facing slope just 5km from the English Channel, and sheltered by a ridge from severe frosts and the worst southwesterly winds – allows a longer hang-time for the grapes, and this means that a fairly low dosage can generally be used. 

Reflecting on 2019

Sat around the table from Rathfinny were Driver, Tony (his winery manager), Miguel (the winemaker), Alex (who takes over logistics post-bottling), Andy, the sales manager, and Richard (brand ambassador). The wines had been disgorged in November, so the samples had spent a few months under cork, giving the sugar a chance to integrate with the wine. 

Asked to summarise how the 2019 vintage played out, Driver explained that the summer was long, dry and hot, just as 2018 had been the year before. Then it started raining towards harvest time, and didn’t seem to want to stop. Several weeks of rain on and off led to worries about dilution, but although some berries did swell, the primary effect of the rain was to bring down the acidity. The long ripening season meant that the flavours were still there, and sugar levels were still high because of the hot weather. Quantity wise it was quite a small vintage, especially for the Pinots.

Winery manager Tony managed the tasting, which commenced with the Blanc de Blanc, then moved on to the Blanc de Noirs. For each wine, we started with 0g/L and 6g/L (typically the upper end for Rathfinny) and worked our way in, tasting pairs of samples, 1g/L and 5g/L, 2g/L and 4g/L and then 3g/L. Samples with half-gram variations could be called on as needed. 

A fine balance

Once we’d all tasted from 0g/L to 6g/L, Driver asked everyone in turn for their preference, and the reason behind it. In general there was consensus:  Miguel, Tony and Mark all went for 3g/L, Richard and Andy said 2g/L to 3g/L, and Alex 3g/L to 4g/L. We then all re-tasted 3g/L, comparing it with 3.5g/L and then 2.5g/L. The team settled on 3g/L. The same process carried out with the Blanc de Noirs (a blend of 81% Pinot Noir and 19% Pinot Meunier) arrived at a dosage of 3.5g/L.

It was an illuminating process, the biggest revelation being the clear differences that just 0.5g/L either way made to the overall balance of the wine. The descriptors ‘complete’, ‘complex’, ‘rounded’, ‘harmonious’ and ‘elegant’ cropped up often, with the less favoured samples generating observations such as: ‘fruit slightly dulled’, ‘sugar too noticeable’, and ‘finishes too sweet’. As Driver says, it’s the equivalent of seasoning and, successfully done, should enhance the flavours and textures that are already there. For an often overlooked element of the final wine, dosage really does play a significant role. 

The 2019 vintage Rathfinny wines will go on general release later this summer.

What is dosage?

When traditional-method sparkling wines undergo their secondary fermenation in bottle, they end up with no sugar (or only a tiny amount) in the wine, as this has been converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide – the latter providing the fizz. Dosage is the term given to the small amount of sugar added to the wine after disgorgement (a process to remove the yeast from the bottle), before the cork is inserted. It is added in the form of liqueur de dosage – also known as liqueur d’expedition (a mix of sugar and wine). This not only tops up the wine, it also helps balance the acidity and add sweetness.

Some wines are labelled as zéro dosage or brut nature (the official term), which means that no sugar was added to the liqueur d’expedition. Note that the sweetness categories denote dosage added only, and not any residual sugar that may already remain in the bottle before disgorgement. Hence a wine classified as brut nature may contain a little natural residual sugar (up to 3g/L). For this reason some houses prefer to use the term zéro dosage, as it references the fact that there is no dosage added, but there may be some natural sugar.

The styles and corresponding sweetness levels are shown below. Brut is the most common level of sweetness for Champagne and English sparkling wines – so containing less than 12g/L residual sugar. 

Brut Nature: no added sugar and less than 3 grams/litre of residual sugars

Extra-Brut: between 0g/l and 6g/l of residual sugars

Brut: less than 12g/l of residual sugars

Extra Sec/Extra Dry: between 12g/l and 17g/l of residual sugars

Sec/Dry: between 17g/l and 32g/l of residual sugars

Demi-Sec: between 32g/l and 50g/l of residual sugars


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Dumplings and wine pairing – ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/dumplings-wine-pairing-ask-decanter-384720/ Tue, 17 Jan 2023 08:00:12 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=384720 Dumplings wine pairing

What to have this Chinese New Year...

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Dumplings wine pairing

Dumplings and wine pairing – at a glance

  • Champagne works particularly well with fried dumplings, or when serving with vinegar
  • Think of ripe Chardonnays, or fruity rosés to go with your dumpling fillings
  • The stronger the filling flavour, the harder to pair with a wine
  • Avoid heavy, tannic reds

The history of ‘Jiaozi’

The history of the Chinese dumplings (or Jiaozi 饺子 in Chinese) can be traced back to the Eastern Han dynasty (25–220 AD) when legendary physician, the ‘Saint of Medicine’ Zhang Zhongjing treated his patients with lamb and warming herbs wrapped in a thin layer of dough, shaped like human ears.

Archaeologists even found some seriously old dumplings dated back to the Tang Dynasty over a thousand years ago in the Turpan Basin of Xinjiang, northwest China. They look almost exactly like the dumplings we enjoy today.

It’s a well-kept tradition, especially in Northern China, for families to gather and make dumplings on the eve of the Chinese New Year. The whole family, young or old, will work together while chatting, getting their hands dirty rolling out dough wrappers, mixing their home recipe of stuffings and carefully squeezing those little packages of flavours into the fat-bellied ear shape.

The classic flavours of dumplings

When speaking of dumplings (or in Chinese ‘Jiaozi’), it always encompasses a variety of fillings and flavours.

The possibility is literally endless; although the classic stuffings, which you tend to find in the frozen corner of Chinese supermarkets, usually involves meat (most commonly pork) or seafood with a range of vegetables, such as chives, fennel, Chinese cabbage or green onion.

For vegetarian choices, egg and chives are at the top of my list. The smart combinations of carrots, different mushrooms, leaf vegetables and tofu are also colourful and tasty.

Away from its home, there are also more localised, innovative dumplings that involve Miso, Kimchi, Hoisin duck, BBQ Beef or indeed, cheese in the filling – but why not?

Pairing dumplings with wine

‘If you want to pair your dumplings with wine, it’s better to choose light-flavoured fillings,’ said Jennifer Doherty MW, head of buying and education at Summergate Fine Wines & Spirits.


See also: Chinese food and wine pairing

See also: Peking duck and wine pairing – ask Decanter


‘The classic garlic, chive and pork dumplings, for example, are difficult to pair with wines due to their overpowering flavours,’ said the MW, who grew up in a traditional Chinese household in Canada. Other strong-taste dumplings may include beef and tomato or lamb and carrot.

Those with obvious spiciness or sweetness, meanwhile, can also be tricky to pair with wine, as they may enhance the alcohol burn or acidity.

‘Pork and cabbage, Sanxian (pork, prawn and eggs) and mushroom dumplings, on the other hand, are more delicate.’

The mild-flavoured chicken and mushroom dumplings or savoury vegetarian stuffings are also safe choices for wine.

‘I would pick a light and delicate white wine to go with something like pork and cabbage – I don’t think you want a red wine. Try a wine that’s got a little oak on it with good acidity – I’d go for a nice Bourgogne Chardonnay, maybe a Mâcon.’

‘Personally, I love Rieslings, so I’d try a Kabinett—with refreshing acidity and a little bit of residual sugar, to pair with it.’

What about the sauce?

Classic sauces to serve with dumplings can include a mixture of soy sauce, Jiaozi vinegar, sesame oil, garlic and spice.

‘This is the benefit of making your own sauce,’ said Doherty. ‘You can adjust the levels of salt, sourness, and give it a little bit of roundness to achieve a nice balance.

‘It shouldn’t be too difficult for you to find a pairing wine if you prefer a more savoury sauce.

‘But if you prefer only vinegar as the sauce, finding a wine match will be more difficult, so try something with high acidity; Champagne could be a good option here.’

How are your dumplings cooked?

You may be asked whether you’d like your dumpling fried or boiled in a Chinese restaurant (although you are more likely to find fried dumplings in Japanese restaurants). You can also have your dumplings steamed in a dim-sum style.

If your dumplings are steamed or boiled, the skin turns soft while retaining the clean, doughy mouthfeel. Flavours of the filling tend to drop a little if dumplings are boiled in water, so good wines to choose could be a creamy aged Champagne, a ripe New World Chardonnay or a fruit-forward Grenache or Zinfandel-based rosé , especially when the dish is served warm.

Fiona Beckett also recommends Blanc de Blancs Champagne or a fino Sherry with dim sum, in her guide to wine and Chinese food pairing. 

Avoid big, heavy red wines as they would most certainly overpower the flavours, and tannins don’t tend to work well with the soft and sticky doughy skin.

A touch of residual sugar in the wine, however, can work well, especially with a meaty filling and seasoned with savoury, umami-rich soy sauce and Shaoxing wine.

Fried dumplings tend to pair better with wine, as the skin gets crisper; a bit of burn on the bottom adds even more to the texture. If done properly, the filling should remain soft inside.

As fried dumplings absorb some oil in the cooking, a chilled bottle of NV Champagne or dry English sparkling make a good match with fried dumplings, served cold or hot.


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Champagne styles explained https://www.decanter.com/wine/champagne-styles-explained-486862/ Wed, 14 Sep 2022 08:45:24 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=486862 Champagne styles

A range of styles to discover...

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Champagne styles

Traditional-method sparkling – made via a second fermentation in bottle – is made in regions around the wine world, and yet Champagne continues to enjoy the widest recognition, thanks to its esteemed history, the power of its brands and its range of styles.

Sweetness

This is determined by the amount of residual sugar in the dosage – a mixture of sugar and wine added to the Champagne before the final bottling. Brut, by some distance, is the most popular. The most rasping category is brut nature, which also goes by the name zero dosage and, as the wording suggests, contains no added sugar. The next rung on the ladder is extra brut (0-6 grams of sugar per litre) before we hit the ubiquitous brut (less than 12g/L). The confusingly titled extra dry category contains between 12g and 17g/L, followed by the increasingly sweet sec, demi-sec and doux bottlings.

Grapes

The art of blending different grapes is vital in maintaining ‘house style’, and ironing out vintage variation. While there are seven permitted varieties, the dominant triumvirate is Chardonnay (which gives citrus, acidity and finesse), Pinot Noir (red fruits and body) and Pinot Meunier (bright, youthful fruit).

Blanc de noirs on a label means it has been made only from dark-skinned grapes such as Pinot Noir and/or Meunier. The former trumps Meunier for popularity, with sought-after examples including Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay and Billecart-Salmon’s Le Clos St-Hilaire. Blanc de blancs is crafted from pale-skinned grapes and almost certainly means it’s pure Chardonnay.

Vintages

While the term ‘vintage Champagne’ is largely self-explanatory (all grapes coming from one year), non-vintage (NV) Champagne requires a bit more unpacking and is where a Champagne house’s chef de cave (cellar master) earns their corn. The arguably unachievable goal of NV is to create a house style which remains consistent, year after year.

While NV is a marriage of grapes, crus (vineyard sites) and vintages, the blend will still be dominated by a foundation wine that comes from a single, recent harvest. This is seasoned with reserve wines from older vintages which bring more evolved flavours and richness.

The ambition of NV may be to remain true to a signature style, yet in reality vintage variation – not to mention the manner in which NV is incrementally released to market – means that this is probably a pipe dream. In recognition of this, many producers (including Bruno Paillard, Jacquesson and, more recently, Krug) mark the labels of their NVs – in varying degrees of prominence and clarity – with the base wine’s vintage.

Colour

Rosé Champagne can be made using a couple of different methods such as direct pressing and short maceration. The latter involves leaving red grapes to macerate for 24-72 hours before pressing, thereby extracting colour from the dark skins. Although some Champagne is made this way, most is created by simply adding about 15% of still red wine (usually Pinot Noir) to the blend of base wines. Top houses own vineyards dedicated solely to the growing of premium red grapes.


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Single quinta vintage Ports explained https://www.decanter.com/learn/single-quinta-vintage-ports-explained-479943/ Wed, 01 Jun 2022 07:00:15 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=479943 Single quinta vintage Port
Quinta de Vargellas is among the single-quinta estates that have won a loyal following

Discover how improvements in winemaking have led to the rise of single quinta vintage Ports...

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Single quinta vintage Port
Quinta de Vargellas is among the single-quinta estates that have won a loyal following

Cloaked in a network of terraced vineyards that stretch out from both banks of the river which gave the region its name, it is not hyperbole to call the Douro valley jaw-dropping in beauty and tranquil in mood.

A notable feature of this breathtaking region are the whitewashed buildings emblazoned with the name of the estate (quinta) which owns the surrounding land. Many of these belong to major Port houses and have become avidly followed brands in their own right – think Quinta dos Malvedos (Graham’s), Quinta de Vargellas (Taylor’s), Quinta do Bomfim (Dow’s), Quinta da Cavadinha (Warre’s) and Quinta da Roêda (Croft).

In the great years which are declared as a vintage, the grapes from these vineyards will go into the blend for the top wine: the classic vintage Port of the house.

However, huge improvements in winemaking from the 1980s onwards means the production of a good vintage Port is much less of a hit-and-miss affair, so, even in undeclared years, wines of potential vintage quality can be made and are bottled by the major shippers as single quinta Ports.

However, the category is not merely the domain of Port’s heavyweights. There are a plethora of dynamic, independent single quintas whose vintage wine is released most, if not every, year whether or not a general declaration is made. These estates run the gamut in terms of size, ranging from properties which appear to be little more than small-scale start-ups to sprawling estates such as the 326ha Quinta do Vesuvio.

Other quintas to look out for include Vale Meão, de la Rosa, Passadouro, Roriz and Noval, which is owned by AXA Millésimes, proprietors of Château Pichon Baron in Pauillac.

As for vinification, single quinta is made in a manner which echoes that of vintage Port: matured in barrel for two to three years, before being bottled unfined and unfiltered (a decanter is still needed). The only other distinctions are that the wines are less expensive and can be ready to drink earlier – after 10, rather than 20 years, say.

As well as demanding less of both your patience and wallet, a further boon for the wine lover who likes to go granular is that, when following a quinta year after year, you are given an evolving snapshot of prime Douro terroir.

Single quinta vintage Ports: In the glass


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What makes a wine vegan? Plus 10 wines to try https://www.decanter.com/learn/advice/makes-vegan-wine-ask-decanter-406947/ Tue, 17 May 2022 08:00:04 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=406947 vegan wine
How do you know if a wine is vegan?

We take a look at what makes a wine suitable for vegans...

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vegan wine
How do you know if a wine is vegan?

What makes a wine vegan? Ask Decanter

Given that wine is the product of grapes and yeast, some may assume that all wines would be appropriate for vegans those who do not consume any kind of animal product but this isn’t always the case.

Wine bars and retailers have started to market some wines as vegan friendly in response to the growth of veganism in several countries, including the UK and US. According to The Vegan Society, 600,000 people in the UK were vegan in 2019, compared to 150,000 in 2014. Furthermore, according to Ipsos in 2022, almost half of Brits aged 16-75 are now considering reducing their future intake of animal products.

Veganuary is increasingly part of the New Year calendar, slotting into the post-festive detox trend. For January 2022, over 629,000 people signed up to take part worldwide, according to The Vegan Society almost 50,000 more than in the previous year.

The increasing move to veganism may be founded through people’s concern for animal welfare, their own health or climate impact. Whatever the reasons behind it, many consumers are now looking to have the same levels of clarity in terms of what is in their glass, as exist for what is on their plate.

Vegan wine

It is often traditional fining agents that can make a wine unsuitable for vegans.

Egg whites or casein (a protein found in milk) can be used to remove tiny particles of sediment in a wine that cannot be removed by filtration.

However, other ways of doing this are becoming more popular.

‘Traditional fining products that were egg/fish/milk derived have probably – we think – moved on to a lot of vegetable-based products,’ said Kristin Syltevik, of the Oxney Organic Estate in East Sussex, England, speaking in 2018.

Vegan wines are made without animal products, so winemakers either leave the particles to sink naturally to the bottom of the wine, or use non-animal fining products usually bentonite, a form of clay or pea protein, said former Waitrose & Partners wine expert, Matt Johnson.

Other animal products used in wine production may include beeswax (used to seal bottles) and agglomerated corks (which use milk-based glues).

In reality, many wines are vegan friendly. However, it can be difficult to tell. Regulations in the EU and US do not currently require wineries to list fining agents on labels.

More wine retailers and producers have started to help consumers make a choice by highlighting which of their wines are vegan friendly.

Majestic Wine previously told Decanter.com that it defined vegan wine as those that ‘will not have been fined, filtered or come into contact with anything derived from an animal or dairy source’. It currently stocks over 270 wines listed as vegan, compared to just 39 in 2018.

Waitrose Cellar has over 500 wines listed as vegan on its website.

Decanter’s Weekday Wines also shows which wines are labelled vegan and vegetarian, as well as those that are organic and biodynamic.


Ten vegan-labelled wines to try:

The following wines were recommended by Decanter experts, and are also vegan. 


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Barrels explained https://www.decanter.com/learn/barrels-explained-477859/ Mon, 11 Apr 2022 07:53:12 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=477859 The master cooper making wine barrels at the R López de Heredia bodega in Rioja
The master cooper making wine barrels at the R López de Heredia bodega in Rioja. Credit: Julian Eales / Alamy Stock Photo

Discover how the origin, size, age and toasting level of a barrel can affect a wine's development and character.

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The master cooper making wine barrels at the R López de Heredia bodega in Rioja
The master cooper making wine barrels at the R López de Heredia bodega in Rioja. Credit: Julian Eales / Alamy Stock Photo

Coming in various forms, barrels can play a crucial role in a wine’s conditioning, adding not only texture and body but also the widely cherished seasoning characters of vanilla, cedar and tobacco. They have been in use since at least the third millennium BC in ancient Egypt, where tubs with wooden staves were used during harvest. There is also evidence of barrels being used for storing wine in ancient Babylon, Iron Age Britain, Gaul and ancient Rome.

A barrel is constructed from several components: the head (the round ends which form the top and bottom of the barrel), staves (the shaped lengths of wood that form the sides of the barrel), and hoops (the metal parts that hold the staves together).

Not all barrels are created equal, however, with the origin of the oak trees that provide the wood being one of the key factors in determining the style of the finished wine. Other significant elements include the barrel’s dimensions, age and level of toast (see below).

The most common wooden vessel used in modern-day winemaking is the traditional oak barrel, usually made from either European or American oak. European oak is tighter-grained, resulting in firm but ‘polished’ tannins and more restrained flavours. They are considered to result in a finer outcome compared to their American counterparts, which are cheaper to produce and contain more vanillin compounds, therefore delivering more overt, sweeter characters such as coconut.

As to dimensions, the winemaker has at their disposal a smorgasbord of sizes whose capacities are often based on tradition: the Bordeaux barrique holds 225 litres, for example, while in Burgundy you’ll usually find 228L barrels.

Enormous vessels are an important part of Italy’s winemaking heritage, most notably in Piedmont where the Slavonian oak botte – generally holding anything from 1,500L-10,000L of wine – is woven into the region’s history.

In between these two extremes you will find puncheons or demi-muids, which hold 500L and 600L respectively. Even larger than that are French foudres, which compare with Italy’s botti.

Size is crucial as it determines the ratio of surface area in direct contact with the wine: the smaller the barrel, the higher the proportion of oak in contact with the wine, which results in stronger oak-derived aromas and flavours.

It is that surface area, the inside of the barrel, where toast comes into effect, with the level of toasting determining the flavours imparted into the wine. Taking place in the cooperage where the barrel is crafted, the barrel’s interior is charred with flames, which caramelises the sugars within the wood – the longer the exposure to flame, the higher the toast and the richer the flavours.

However, the flavour components released by this process into a wine diminish with time, which brings us to age. By the time the barrel has been used in four or five vintages there is little flavour left to give, though barrels will continue to be used, with winemakers keeping them as an option when in pursuit of a gentler touch of oak.

Barrels: In the glass


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What is Porto Garrafeira? Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/what-is-porto-garrafeira-ask-decanter-477006/ Tue, 29 Mar 2022 08:00:56 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=477006 Glass demijohns on a shelf in a cellar
Niepoort Porto Garrafeira demijohns

Discover this rare Port style

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Glass demijohns on a shelf in a cellar
Niepoort Porto Garrafeira demijohns

In the late 19th century, Eduard Karel Jacob van der Niepoort, the second generation of the Niepoort family of Port winemakers, had the novel idea of buying 4,000 old apothecary demijohns. He wanted to use them for the maturation of the family’s wines.

These distinctive squat, dark-green glass bottles, between eight and 11 litres in volume, proved very effective. So effective that in 1931, his son (also an Eduard) decided they should be used for extended maturation of the best wines of the vintage.

Thus was created Porto Garrafeira. The Niepoort family felt this style would set a new benchmark of quality and refinement for the fortified wines of the Douro Valley.

Porto Garrafeira is a style that combines both oxidative and reductive ageing. Essentially it is a vintage dated tawny with subsequent minimum ageing in glass. First, the wine is aged oxidatively in wood for a minimum period of four to eight years. It is then aged for a minimum of 15 years in demijohns (Niepoort also refers to them as ‘bonbons’).

Official recognition

The Niepoort family may have minted this new style nearly a century ago, but Porto Garrafeira’s special status was only officially recognised as recently as late 2021. This is when the Institut do Vinos Porto y Douro (IVDP) introduced rules to enshrine the style in Port wine law.

For a Porto Garrafeira to receive IVDP approval, the date of storage in demijohns and quantities made must be communicated to the IVDP. Sales of these Ports are then only permitted after the minimum ageing referred to above.

In the glass

So much for the regulation, but how does a rare bottling like Porto Garrafeira taste? Due to the combination of long oxidative and reductive ageing, these wines display an especially seductive mix of mature and fresh fruit character.

The ageing in demijohns, in particular, is thought by some to add a unique cheiro da garrafa (‘smell or savour of the bottle’) for which it’s hard to find a direct parallel in other Port styles.

For its part, the IVDP notes: ‘As we have very high quality and both oxidative and reductive ageing, a great combination of sensations, aromas and flavours can be present. The flavours are taken to a dimension where the wine is at once complex, fine and balanced. The aromas can be as diverse as fresh red fruits, spices and chocolate, combined with notes of dried fruit and cigar box.’

Singular style

Currently Niepoort is the only Port house that produces Porto Garrafeira Port. It is, after all, the only one with a collection of several thousand old apothecary demijohns. The latest Niepoort Garrafeira release is from 1987, though 1983 and 1977 vintages have also been bottled.

A few fortunate souls will also have had the privilege of tasting the oldest Garrafeira Port the family has ever made – from vintage 1863. (In 2018 a Lalique decanter of this particular vintage became the most expensive single bottle of Port ever sold.) In this case, a very rare wine indeed, and one perhaps deserving of its own special category.


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What is Carema? Ask Decanter https://www.decanter.com/learn/what-is-carema-ask-decanter-475667/ Tue, 22 Mar 2022 12:18:50 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=475667 Carema

Carema is in the midst of a renaissance with new winegrowers reclaiming abandoned vineyard...

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Carema

Located in Italy’s Piedmont region at the foothills of the Alps, Carema is home to outstanding Nebbiolo wines, uniquely different from those of the Langhe, Roero, or Alto Piemonte.

Subtle, with complex character and steely mineral backbone, Carema is a dream wine for fans who seek the lithe and racy side of Nebbiolo. But, Carema produces very little. Approximately 18ha of vineyards makes it the smallest growing appellation in Italy.

Small but impressive, Carema matters because of its unique terroir and because Nebbiolo has the fascinating ability to showcase and express it. Consumers are also increasingly embracing the value and character of high-altitude Nebbiolo.

Once famous, then nearly forgotten, Carema is in the midst of a renaissance with new winegrowers reclaiming abandoned vineyards and producing wines of distinction.

Land and Vine

Carema is an exceptional example of ‘heroic viticulture’. Vineyards require terracing to defy gravity. High-elevation and extreme weather raise the stakes for farming. And Carema’s remoteness, defined by small patches of vineyards with minimal infrastructure, makes it a challenging place to make wine.

Cultivation is done by hand and requires hiking on crooked stone staircases that jut out from terraced walls, filled with glacial morainic soil brought up from the Dora Baltea river below. This amphitheater-shaped growing area’s picturesque beauty is further sprinkled with shimmering mica schist rocks, commonly found in the Alps.

The vines are traditionally trained on a network of low wooden pergola (topia) and anchored by truncated cone-shaped stone pillars (pilun). The masses of rock, wrenched from the mountainside, create a natural architectural masterpiece, but they also play important roles: During the day, they store the sun’s heat and then release it in the evening. In addition, the wooden trellis provides support and protection from the winter elements and snow.

The Wine

Carema is a red winemaking zone that showcases Nebbiolo specifically, the Picotener Nebbiolo biotype as its leading variety. To be Carema DOC, the vineyards are required to be situated between 300 to 600 metres above sea level. Wine must be made in Carema from fruit grown in Carema. Requirements call for at least 85% Picotener Nebbiolo; the remainder, a maximum of 15% of authorised local Piedmont red grapes, such as Neyrette. Though most, if not all, producers make the wine using 100% Picotener Nebbiolo. Aging requirements are 24 months, of which 12 months must be in wood, while the riserva requires 36 months, including 12 months in barrel (Italian Wine Central).

Like many Piedmontese reds made from Nebbiolo, Carema wine has excellent aging potential due to high acidity. But when compared to Nebbiolo wines from its southern neighbours, the difference is indisputably unique.

Comparison to other Nebbiolo-based wines

While Carema is just as much a Nebbiolo-based wine as Barolo, the two wines couldn’t be more different. In Carema, the Picotener clone populates the vineyards, while the Michet and Lampia biotypes grow in the southerly growing zones of Barolo and Barbaresco.

As for the soil, generally, the Barolo region is composed of blue-gray marl, clay, limestone, and sandstone from two different geologic periods, while Carema’s soil is rocky limestone of moraine origin, or glacial till. In addition, temperatures in Carema are considerably cooler all year-round than any part of the Langhe due to its high elevation.

Not surprisingly, these differences contribute to wines that are lighter in colour, a touch more delicate and weightless but no less complex. Riveting in its perfume, the palate shows bright acidity and sapidity. Where Langhe wines might have the muscles of a ballet dancer, Carema has nerve and energy. Nebbiolo’s remarkable penchant for site specificity lends to wines that elegantly express the terroir. In fact, while the area under vine is minuscule compared to the Barolo region, several crus (Airale, Siey, and Silanc, among others) showcase potentially high-quality Nebbiolo vines with unique exposures, microclimates, and soils.

History

Although the wine is barely known internationally due to its limited production, wine lovers have held it in great esteem for centuries. Carema sat on a strategic point on the military road to old Gaul, and it’s believed the Romans encouraged settlement by terracing vineyards. Winemaking in Carema was famous as early as the 16th century. By the early 1900s, the area under vine was upwards of 120ha. But political and economic woes of the 20th century shifted Carema’s direction.

‘After the Second World War (when “quality wine” was not a priority), and with the industrial boom, the winemakers gradually abandoned the vineyards to devote themselves to more profitable jobs/activities, less tiring and less dependent on climate conditions,’ said Michele Longo, co-editor of Hugh Johnson’s Pocket Wine Book for the Italy Section.

Yet in 1967, Carema was one of the first wines from Piedmont to attain Controlled Designation of Controlled Origin status (DOC).

The Producers

Alongside the leading Carema producer Ferrando, whose family winemaking tradition goes back to 1900, and the Cantina di Produttori di Carema, a brand new generation of wine producers has emerged on the scene, giving new life and energy to the Carema appellation.

‘Carema vineyards are simply amazing spectacles that showcase the ingenuity, the skills, and the tenacity of these winemakers and the passion they have for their territory,’ said Longo.

Most of the winegrowers work part-time, except for the Ferrando family, relying on stable jobs to make ends meet. But restoring the vineyards and producing great wines is at the heart of the mission for these young producers SorPasso, Monte Maletto, Muraje, Chiussuma, Achille Milanesio, and Cellagrande.

While it will take energy to rejuvenate Carema, the character of the wine has not been weakened. As food and wine writer Mario Soldati once said: ‘Carema is as strong and likeable as the sun and the stone.’

Those two things are constant and timeless.


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Alto Piemonte revival, plus 12 wines to try

Exploring Monferrato and six wines to seek out

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Left and right bank Bordeaux explained https://www.decanter.com/learn/left-and-right-bank-bordeaux-explained-476522/ Mon, 21 Mar 2022 09:00:31 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=476522 Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux.

It's not just geography that distinguishes Bordeaux’s two famous vineyard regions...

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Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux.

The Left Bank and Right Bank are two Bordeaux winemaking regions separated by the Gironde estuary and two rivers – the Dordogne and the Garonne. The Right Bank is the area to the north of the Dordogne river, and the Left Bank is the area directly south of the Garonne river. The area in between is known as Entre-deux-Mers.

However, it is not just geography that distinguishes Bordeaux’s two famous vineyard regions. Here’s a quick guide.

Appellations

The Left Bank encompasses the Médoc wine region north of Bordeaux city. Its four best- known appellations, north to south, are St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien and Margaux. South of Bordeaux city centre, the Left Bank includes Pessac-Léognan and Graves, along with Sauternes and Barsac, famed for their sweet wines. The Right Bank’s most famous appellations are St-Emilion and Pomerol.

Grapes

While all the Left Bank wines are usually blends, Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant force here. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec tend to play supporting roles. Right Bank wines are predominantly Merlot-based, with the increasingly used Cabernet Franc as well as Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Petit Verdot used as blending components.

Soil and style

Left Bank terrain is mostly flat with gravel topsoil and limestone underneath. Wines typically have more tannin and a bigger overall structure than their Right Bank counterparts, which generally comprise a limestone surface with less gravel and more clay. Right Bank wines tend to be rich in fruit and softer in mouthfeel with lower levels of tannin and acid.

Classifications

There are several classification systems at play. The most important on the Left Bank is the official 1855 Classification of the Médoc, which was drawn up for Emperor Napoleon III as part of the Exposition Universelle de Paris celebrations that year.

It’s a five-tier hierarchy, led by the five ‘first growth’ estates of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Margaux, Château Haut-Brion (even though it’s in Graves) and Château Mouton Rothschild (which was promoted to the top tier in 1973). Then there are 14 second-growth estates followed by 14 third, 10 fourth and 18 fifth. Further south, Sauternes and Barsac producers also got their own classification system in 1855.

The Left Bank is also home to a classification for dry red and white Graves wines, which includes 16 cru classé estates, all of which sit inside the Pessac-Léognan appellation; and then there is the wider classification of cru bourgeois estates, now under the auspices of the the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc.

On the Right Bank, you’ll find the St-Emilion Classification, introduced in 1955 and reviewed every 10 years, unlike the 1855 Classifications. The 2012 list comprised 82 estates and was topped by 18 premier grand cru classé properties – themselves separated into four ‘A’ and 14 ‘B’ rankings. Châteaux Angélus and Pavie joined Ausone and Cheval Blanc as premier grand cru classé A estates in 2012. However, Cheval Blanc, Ausone and Angélus have all withdrawn from the next classification, due in 2022.

Bordeaux: In the glass

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Botrytis explained https://www.decanter.com/learn/botrytis-noble-rot-explained-474590/ Tue, 22 Feb 2022 11:50:01 +0000 https://www.decanter.com/?p=474590 Botrytis

Botrytis cinerea is a phenomenon that unequivocally ranks as one of wine’s most magical and mysterious...

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Botrytis

Despite being a common enemy in a range of fruit and vegetables, an alignment of stars results in this particular strand of grey rot being responsible for some of the world’s most opulent, expensive and desired dessert wines, such as the sélection de grains nobles of Alsace, Germany’s sweeter styles, Sauternes in Bordeaux, and Tokaji in Hungary, where it is argued botrytised wines were first made.

Right place, right time

Botrytis is a permanent resident in most vineyards throughout the year, which makes it an ongoing threat. Towards the end of the ripening season, however, in the right settings, it transforms from unwelcome visitor to VIP.

The base ingredient for botrytis is the presence of water in the form of lakes or rivers. These create misty, humid mornings that trigger the rot’s bloom. As the botrytis spores cloak the berries they attack the skin and exploit microscopic fissures to cause punctures.

Should damp conditions persist, then the berry would naturally degrade and ruin. However, those regions whose reputations are built on botrytis-crafted wines rely on an ace up their sleeve, namely their warm, sunny and dry afternoons. Not only does this maintain ripening, but it also halts the spread of the rot and causes water in the grapes to evaporate out through the pierced skin, leading to the concentration of sugars, flavours and aromas within the berry.

Botrytis also infuses the grapes with its own set of aromatic compounds, often slightly medicinal – these can include honey, marmalade, ginger and beeswax.

Expertly crafted

Arbitrary in nature, noble rot doesn’t work uniformly but spreads, berry by berry, at varying pace. Therefore, for those producers with the financial means to do so, several rounds of handpicking are required, with these multiple passes through the vineyard capturing only grapes that are perfectly affected by the rot. Unsurprisingly, yields are extremely low, even tiny, not only due to the hand-harvesting of grapes at their optimum, but also to the vastly reduced volume of liquid inside them. In the winery, the grapes are handled with kid gloves, and pressing is carried out slowly and carefully, or – in the case of Tokaji – while being macerated with fermenting juice or a youthful base wine.

Drawn-out fermentations are the norm and require a beady eye in order to stave off a host of threats, not least refermentation, which can be triggered by the high sugar levels at play.

Botrytis: In the glass


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